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C.OEMRIGHT DEPOSfT. 



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HANDICRAFT 

FOR 
HANDY BOYS 




^'■Modern Electrics. 

A Boy Craftsman in His Workshop. 



Factory of the Juvei^ile Manufacturing Co., of Dayton, Ohio. 

Fitted up in a Play-House. 
{See Page 103.) 



HANDICRAFT 

FOR 
HANDY BOYS 

Iractical Plans iorAwrk ana Play 
withManj Ideas fcr EarningMoncjy^ 

Author of" The Boy Crajftsman \Eic. 

vVitK nearly six nurulrca illustrations an J work- 
ing-drawings Dy tnc auinor and Nor manP Hall 




BOSTON 

LOTHROR LEE ir SHEPAED CO. 






Copyright, 1911, by Lothrop, Lee & Shepard Company. 

Published, August, 1911. 



AH rights reserved. 



Handicraft for Handy Boys. 






J. S. Gushing Co. — Berwick & Smith Co. 
Norwood, Mass., U.S.A. 



iP^^ rti fl •! fi o 1 "^ n 



When you play, play hard; and 
when you work, do not play at all. 

— Theodore Roosevelt. 



INTRODUCTORY NOTES 

This is a companion volume to " The Boy Craftsman," and 
is intended for the same class of readers, — boys who want the 
latest ideas for making things, practical plans for earning money, 
Mp-to-date suggestions for games and sports, and novelties for 
home and school entertaijiments. 

There are all sorts of Handicraft for Handy Boys in this 
new volume. Some of the ideas will appeal more directly to 
younger readers, while other ideas will be better suited to the 
older lads who have become more capable through experience 
with earlier ventures and advancement in school. At the time 
of the publication of ** The Boy Craftsman," the author advanced 
the opinion that it is well to provide a boy with a book which 
contains not only a goodly measure of the simple work requir- 
ing little or no experience in the handling of tools, but also the 
proper instruction to help him grow more proficient, and such 
advanced work as he will then be prepared to undertake ; and the 
success of this former volume has proven that such a book gets 
right next to a boy's heart, that it furnishes him with ideas for 
many years' work, and that it produces the best possible influ- 
ence over him in encouraging him to be industrious. Every 
young fellow loves to plan and dream about what he is ** going 
to do " some day, and in simply looking over the more advanced 
ideas in a book of this kind, he experiences, in his imaginative 
mind, much of the pleasures that his older brother or friend 
gets out of the actual work ; for this reason, no school boy is 
too young to enjoy such a book, and the act of placing a copy 



VI 



INTRODUCTORY NOTES 



in his hands at an early age will be the means of instilling 
in him an ambition to make the best possible use of his 
time, before he has had a chance to acquire a tendency to be 
an idler. 

As in " The Boy Craftsman," the author has planned the 
stiggestions on an economical basis, providing for the use of 
the materials which a boy ordinarily has at hand, — old boards, 
grocery boxes, cigar boxes, barrels, tin cans, worn-out pans and 
tins, pails, broom-handles, spools, discarded clocks, broken 
chairs and other furniture, old hats and clothing, stovepipe, 
clothes-line, screen wire, and other things too numerous to 
mention, — besides many things which can be purchased for 
a few cents. The greater part of the ideas require very little 
if any outlay of money, and many suggestions for earjiing money 
have been included to make it possible for a boy to provide 
himself with all the tools which he requires or wishes to own, 
without having to call upon the home treasurer for the means 
for such purchases. These features were brought together 
for the first time in " The Boy Craftsman," and have won 
the confidence of parents who realize that, in giving a book 
of this kind to their boys, they are providing something which 
will encourage self-reliance and resourcefulness rather than 
a dependence upon home for money for tools and working 
material — ■ which is often the cause of endless worry where 
such cannot be furnished. The work is along such lines 
as will interest the boy with unlimited funds at his disposal, as 
well as the boy in moderate circumstances, and, inasmuch as 
it has been planned on a small cost basis, it should be the means 
of doing him more good, and help him to form a firmer founda- 
tion for later years, than something which might tend to culti- 
vate a love for extravagance. 

Much of the work is closely allied to the studies of the 
modern grammar and high schools, as will be seen by glancing 
over the table of Contents, and it is hoped and believed that 



INTRODUCTORY NOTES vii 

this outside instruction will be the means of helping boys to 
appreciate the value of close application to studies. 

It is impossible to make a book of this character complete, 
in the sense of covering every scope of work and play in which 
boys are interested ; for the field is practically inexhaustible, 
and is growing larger day by day. Every new development 
in the scientific world is being investigated by an eager army 
of boys possessing an unquenchable thirst for something new, 
and generally some young mechanical genius discovers how 
to introduce the idea into the boys' realm of work; and if 
costly apparatus was used in the original experiments, he " plugs 
away" until he finds out how this can be made, wholly or 
partly, with the materials boys are accustomed to work with, — 
the truck to be found about the house, in the shed, in alleys 
and in junk shops, and inexpensive stuff. This sort of original 
investigation should be encouraged in boys, and no better way 
can be found than by providing them with a book of modern 
and ingenious work which will appeal to their mechanical 
natures. 

Here is an example of the pace at which boys' achievements 
are following the developments of the day. Every up-to-date 
boy is now experimenting in electrical work and wireless teleg- 
raphy, work which has put into the background experimental 
chemistry — not long ago one of the principal scientific pas- 
times, and one of the features of boys' handy books ; and he 
is producing original forms of model aeroplanes, while aero- 
nautics now occupies more of his attention than kite-flying, 
a fact which no one, a few years ago, would have believed 
to be possible. With the shifting of boys' interests in work 
and play, it is only natural for the book which contains the 
greatest variety of modern ideas to win the greatest amount of 
popularity. Whether or not this book will meet the present 
demands of boys, the author is willing to let his readers decide. 

The manual training in the first portion of the book has been 



viii INTRODUCTORY NOTES 

provided for the benefit of the boys who have not the advan- 
tages of such instruction at school, as well as to help those who 
have these advantages, in providing themselves with equipment 
for home use. The chapter on working-drawings has been 
inserted to instruct boys in enough of the principles of mechani- 
cal drawing to enable them to design and work out their own 
ideas accurately on paper, and the numerous plans for easily 
made furniture, for toys and gifts, and for such handy con- 
trivances for the house as a fireless cooker will furnish them 
with a good supply of ideas to make selections from for shop 
work. The suggestions for fitting up a boy's room and for 
making box furniture and gymnasium apparatus will enable 
boys to provide themselves with rooms furnished to suit their 
convenience. The chapter on a boy's wireless telegraph outfit 
contains practical ideas for home-made apparatus in its simplest 
forms, the chapter on model aeroplanes shows some of the best 
model flying machines, and the " auto-airship " described is a 
practical scheme for a boy's airship that runs along a rope 
cable in which the safety of a toboggan shde is combined with 
some of the thrilHng sensations of flying through the air. 

To encourage work in the open, outdoor pastimes have been 
treated with as much care and consideration in the selection of 
material as indoor work. 

Designers of home-made furniture for amateurs generally 
omit dimensions on their working-drawings, probably figuring 
that the work will thus appear less complicated to them ; but 
designers of furniture and machines would not think of omit- 
ting these from drawings that are to be turned over to skilled 
workmen, so it is foolish to expect boys to get along without 
them. The dimensions upon the furniture-drawings in Chap- 
ter VI may make them appear complicated, but after study- 
ing the instructions for making working-drawings, any boy 
will find them clear and explicit and to contain only the neces- 
sary information. 



INTRODUCTORY NOTES ix 

All of the material in this volume has been thoroughly tested, 
and hundreds of thousands of boys have already had an oppor- 
tunity to carry out some of the ideas which have been included 
in the author's articles for boys published recently in TJie Ladies' 
Home Journal diX^^ Good Housekeeping, in his ''Boy Carpenter" 
department of The Boys' Magazine, and in The American Boy. 
The author wishes to extend his thanks to the editors and pub- 
lishers of the above publications, for their care in preserving 
and returning the original drawings for the illustrations to these 
articles that they might be used in this book. 

With a few exceptions, the photographs used were prepared 
by the author, either from the models he made or from the 
work constructed by his readers from his plans and instruc- 
tions. 

The author invites correspondence, and is always glad to 
hear how his boys succeed with their work, and pleased to 
receive photographs of their handicraft for his collection. 

A. N. H. 
Chicago, Illinois, 
May 31, 1911. 




ONTENT 




PART I 



AUTUMN AND WINTER HANDICRAFT 

CHAPTER I 

The Home Workshop . 

Introduction — What a Boy should be able to Do — Selecting a 
Suitable Place for a Shop — Gas or Electric Light — Cabinet-made 
Benches — A Home-made Bench — A Solid Work Bench — The 
Bench-vise — An Iron Bench-screw — An Iron Vise — A Work 
Bench with Tool Drawers — A Tool Tray — Home-made Bench- 
stops — An Adjustable Bench -stop. 

CHAPTER II 

Tools and Home-made Shop Equipment 

Purchasing Tools — A Handy Guide for Purchasing — The Prin- 
cipal Tools Required — A Small Outfit and how it may be added 
to — Jack-knife — Hatchet — Hammer — Tack Hammer — Crate 
Opener — Nail-set — Wooden Mallet — Cross-cut Saw — Rip-saw — 
Compass-saw — Keyhole-saw — Back-saw — Coping-saw — Bracket- 
saw — Scroll-saw — Jack-plane — Smoothing-plane — Fore-plane — 
Rabbet-plane — Dado-plane — Ratchet-brace — Auger-bits — Ex- 
pansive-bit — Wood Drill Bit — Brad-awls — Scratch-awl — Hand 
Gimlet — Rose Countersink Bit — Automatic Drill — Spiral-ratchet 
Screw-driver — Hand Screw-driver — Screw-driver Bit — Firmer 
Chisels — Framing or Mortising Chisel — Gouge — Cold-chisel — 
Draw-knife — Spoke-shave — Half-round Wood-file — Handiest 
Forms of Files — Two-foot Folding Rule — Try-square — Carpen- 



PAGE 
I 



14 



xii CONTENTS 



ter's Steel Square — Bevel — Marking-gauge — Wing Dividers — 
Level — Pocket Level — Odd-jobs — Cutting Pliers — Wrench — 
Wood Handscrews — Cabinet-maker's Clamps — Home-made 
Clamps — Grindstone — Oilstone — Oiler — Grocery-box Tool-chest 

— Tool-cabinet — Tool-rack — Open Shelves — Material Boxes — 
Partitioned Nail Box — Another Box — Receptacles for Nails, Screws, 
and Brads — Horse — Saw-bench — Chair Saw-bench — Miter-box 

— Bench-hook — Shooting-board. 

CHAPTER III 
Elementary Manual Training 42 

Selection of Working Material — Structure of Wood — Cutting 
up the Log — Plain Sawing — Quarter Sawing — Knots — Cup- 
shakes and Heart-shakes — Checks — Seasoning — Kiln Drying — 
Stock or Stuif — Undressed Stuff— Dressed Stuff— Matched Stuff 

— Matched-and-beaded Stuff — Boards — Planks or Dimension Stuff 

— Timber — Stock Sizes of Lumber — Purchasing Material — A Mill 
List — Estimating Cost of Material — Laying out Work — Gauging — 
A Planing Exercise — Winding -sticks — A Sawing Exercise — 
Joints and Splices — Common-joint — Butt-joint — Common-splice 

— Fished-splice — Haived-joint — Halved-splice — Mortise-and- 
tenon Joint — Pins — Wedging — Rabbet — Rabbet-joint — Grooves 

— Housed-joint — Tongue-and-groove Joint — Mitered-joint — Mi- 
tered-splice — Dovetail-joint — Dovetail Half-lap Joint — Dowel- 
joint — Battens — Cleats — Taper — Bevel — Chamfer — Gluing up 
Work — Screws — Nails — Carriage-bolts. 

CHAPTER IV 
Wood Finishing 75 

The Finishes best adapted to Boys' Work — Paint — Mixing 
Paints — Brushes — Painting — Staining — Water Stains — Oil 
Stains — Shellacking — Filling — Waxing — Varnishing — Rubbing 

— Polishing — Oiling — Sandpapering — Puttying — A Home-made 
Putty-knife — Caution about Oily Rags. 

CHAPTER V 

Working-drawings 86 

What a Working-drawing is and its Purpose — Why Some People 
have Difficulty in Reading Working-drawings — Definitions of 



CONTENTS xiii 



PAGE 



Detail Drawings, Specifications, Plans, Elevations, Cross-sections, 
Longitudinal Sections, and a Perspective Drawing — Scales — A 
Drawing Outfit — A Drawing-board — A Drafting Table — A 
T-square — A 45 -degree Triangle — A 60-degree Triangle — Com- 
passes — A Ruling-pen — A Set of Instruments — A 12-inch Ruler 

— A Scale — Drawing Pencils — Pens — Drawing Ink — An Ink 
Eraser and a Pencil Eraser — An Erasing Shield — A Home-made 
Pencil Box and Inkstand — Thumb-tacks — Drawing-paper — Blue- 
prints — Tracing-cloth — Tracing-paper — A Home-made Printing- 
frame — Preparing Working-drawings — Dimension-lines, Dot-and- 
dash Lines, and Dotted Lines — Titles — Marginal Lines — Lettering. 

CHAPTER VI 

Easily Made Furniture 103 

A Good Test of a Boy's Skill — What Boys generally want to 
Make — Plan for Earning Money — The Juvenile Manufacturing 
Company — Choice of Material — A Whisk-broom Holder — A 
Clock-shelf — A Necktie Rack — A Towel-rack — Book-racks — 
An Extension Book-rack — Popularity of Tabourets and Plant 
Stands — ^^A List of Material showing Exact Finished Dimensions 

— A Tabouret — Leveling up Uneven Legs — Another Tabouret — 
A Plant Stand — A Footstool — L^pholstering Material and how to 
Upholster — A Bench — Two Magazine Racks — A Music-cabinet 

— An Umbrella-stand — A Roman Chair — A Mission Chair — A 
Mission Writing-desk — An Electric Lamp — How to wire up the 
Lamp with a Socket and Drop-cord — A Drafting Table — A Desk 
Table. 

CHAPTER VII 

Handy Contrivances for the House 135 

Things a Boy can make and Sell — How to sell Home-made 
Articles — A Fireless Cooker — The Fireless Cooker used by the 
United States Army — A Pot-cover Rack — A Bottle-rack — How 
to cut Large Holes — A Flat-iron Rest — A Flat-iron Rack — A 
Sleeve-board — A Knife-box — A Scrub-pail Platform — A Towel- 
roller — An Ice-pick and Ice-chisel Rack — How to finish House- 
hold Conveniences. 



xiv CONTENTS 

CHAPTER VIII 

PAGE 

A Boy's Room in an Attic 149 

A Dividing Partition — A Plumb-line — A Plumb-board — Lockers 

— Wainscoting — A Large Clothes Closet — Trousers Hangers — 
Doors — The Entrance-door Transom — An Old-fashioned Cabin 
Latch — An Oil Heater or Stove — A Wash-stand — A Broom- 
handle Towel-rack — Lighting the Room — A Home-made Hanging 
Lamp — Furnishing the Room — Home-made Picture-frames — The 
Furniture — A Pirate Chest — A Window Seat — Suggestions for 
Boys who have no Attic. 

CHAPTER IX 
Box AND Barrel Furniture .... . . . .160 

The Possibilities for Making Things out of the Materials at 
Hand — A Writing-desk — A Shelf for Books — An Office Chair — 
A Waste-basket — An Arm Rocker — A Barrel Table — A Chiffonier 

— How to finish Box Furniture. 

CHAPTER X 
Home-made Gymnasium Apparatus for a Boy's Room . .170 

A Chest-weight — A Striking-bag — A Striking-bag Platform — 
A Chinning-bar — A Hitch-and-Kick — A Wand — A Rack for 
Dumb-bells, Indian Clubs, and Wand. 

CHAPTER XI 
Cigar-box Toys and Gifts 178 

Articles to give away and to Sell — Material — Finish — Cutting 

— An Express-wagon — A Cart — An Auto Dehvery-wagon — ^^ 
A Jack-in-the-Box — A Round-seated Chair — A Round Center- 
table — A Dining-table — A Square-seated Chair — A Doll's Cradle 

— A Key-board — A Corner Clock-shelf — A Whisk-broom Holder 

— A Kitchen Match-box — A Cottage Pipe-rack and Match-box — 
A Cottage Match-box — Suggestions for Other Gifts. 

CHAPTER XII 
Clockv^ork Toys 189 

The Necessary Materials — How to prepare the Clockwork — 
A Merry-go-round^ — The Standard — The Tent — The Tent-poles 



CONTENTS XV 

PAGE 

— The Horses — The Sleighs — The Shafts— The Girl and Boy • ' 
Riders — The Platform — How to operate the Merry-go-round — 
Other Animals for the Merry-go-round — A Miniature Ferris Wheel 

— The Standard — The Station Platform — How to make the Wheel 

— How to make the Cars — The Car Axles — How to mount the 
Wheel — Steps to the Platform — The "Flying Airships" — The 
Standard — The Mast — The Cars — How to increase the Speed of 
the Clockwork. 

CHAPTER XIII 

Brass Craft 206 

The Tools and Materials Required — Enlarging Designs by 
Squares — Piercing — Polishing the Brass — A Home-made Antique 
Green Lacquer — A Tea-pot Stand — A Calendar Board — A Pen 
Tray — A Lamp-shade — Chain Fringe — A Candle-shade — Shade- 
holders — A Candle-stick — A " Paul Revere " Lantern. 

CHAPTER XIV 

A Boy's Wireless Telegraph Outfit 2x9 

Marconi and his Experiments — What Some Boys have Accom- 
plished — The Chicago Wireless Club — Code Cards, Call Lists, and 
Aerogram Blanks — Amateur Commercial Stations — Fundamental 
Principles of Wireless Telegraphy — The Aerial — Masts for the 
Aerial — Insulating the Aerial — Grounding the Aerial — The Re- 
ceiving Outfit — Telephone Receivers — Detectors — A Microphone 
Detector — A Razor-blade Microphone Detector — A Silicon De- 
tector — A Tuning-coil — A Fixed Condenser — A Potentiometer 

— The Transmitting Outfit — An Induction-coil — A Spark-gap — 
A Storage Battery — Dry Batteries — A Wireless Key — A Knife 
Switch — A Good Arrangement for the Instruments — Operation of 
Instruments — How to receive a Call — How to make a Call — 
Codes — A Good Way to learn a Code — Electrical Measurements 

— Connection of Dry Batteries. 

CHAPTER XV 

Stunts for a Boys' Vaudeville Show 256 

The Best Kind of Stunts for a Boys' Show — Sam Dow, the 
Strong Man — Holding out a Chair upon which a Boy is Seated — 



xvi CONTENTS 

PAGB 

The Dumb-bell Lifting Feat — Juggling with Heavy Balls — Bone- 
head — The Magical Mortar — The Professor — The Wonderful 
Hat Trick — Other Mortar Stunts — The Professor's Final Exhibi- 
tion — The Dummy Assistant — Falsetto, the Boy with a Wonderful 
Voice — The Ventriloquist — How to make the Ventriloquist's Doll 

— Willie Shute, the Crack Shot of the World — The Targets — 
His Blunderbuss — A Program Board — Admission Tickets. 

CHAPTER XVI 
Moving Pictures 270 

A Simple Moving-picture Machine — The Wooden Base — The 
Cylinder — The Clown and Ball Pictures — The Circus Horse and 
Hound Pictures — How to operate this Toy — The Automobile — 
The Revolving Wheels — The Boxing-match. 

CHAPTER XVII 
A Snow Battleship 279 

A New Idea for a Snow Fight — The Central Station — The Hull 

— A Torpedo Tube — The Superstructure Deck — The Conning- 
tower — The Forward Turret — The Midship Turret — The Mast 

— The Fighting-tops — Rapid-fire Guns — The Crosstree — A 
Coach-whip Pennant — Paper Signal Flags — A Union Jack — A 
National Ensign — The Funnels — The Ventilators — The Main- 
battery Guns — The Secondary-battery Guns — Arrangement of 
Ammunition Stores — Duties of the Captain — A Naval Battle — 
Rules for the Battle — A Flag of Truce — The " Torpedo Boats " — 
Repairing the Ships after a Battle — Marksmanship. 

CHAPTER XVIII 
A Coaster and a Bob-sled 287 

A Coaster — How to lay out the Runners — Shoes for Runners 

— Connecting the Runners — The Seat — Sled Handles — The 
Foot-bar — Painting the Sled. 

A Bob-sled — The Four Runners — Connecting the Runners — 
The Sled Seats —The Plank Seat — How to hinge the Seat to the 
Stern Sled — Check-chains — The Steering Foot-bar — The Steer- 
ing Lines — Handle-bars — A Seat Cushion — Painting the Bob- 
sled. 



CONTENTS xvii 

PART II 

SPRING AND SUMMER HANDICRAFT 

CHAPTER XIX 

PAGE 

Model Aeroplanes 297 

Spring Activities — " Aeroplane Time " — Length of Model Aero- 
plane Flights — Junior Aero Clubs — Model Aeroplane Meets — 
Types of Machines Used — Support of Aeroplane — A Cardboard 
Bird Glider — A Simple Monoplane Model — Center-pole — Planes 

— A Glider Race — An Easily Made Propeller— Shaft and Shaft 
Bearing — Motive Power — Winding up the Motor — A French 
Monoplane Model — Center-pole — Propeller — Running-gear — 
Skids — Planes — Adjustment of Planes — An Antoinette Mono- 
plane Model — Center-pole — Propeller — Wings — Tail — Fin — 
Rudder — Running-gear — A More Elaborate Monoplane Model — 
Center-pole — Material for Binding — Running-gear — Propeller — 
Shaft and Bearing — Motor — Planes — Bracings — Rudder — 
Finish — Flights this Monoplane is capable of Making — Field for 
Experimenting. 

CHAPTER XX 

A Boy's Auto-airship 327 

A Safe and Practical "Boy-carrying" Airship — The Framework 
of the Balloon — Barrel-hoop Ribs — Rib-bands — Stays — The 
Balloon Envelope — Construction of the Car — The Propeller — A 
Starting Platform — A Push-off Platform — The Rope Cable — 
Attachment of Car — Windlass for pulling back the Airship to Start- 
ing Platform — An Auto-airship Club. 

CHAPTER XXI 

Camping Equipment 337 

Prices of "A" and Wall Tents — How to make an "A" Tent— ^ 
The Ridge-pole and Uprights — Tent Stakes — Pitching a Tent — 
A Tent Ground-cloth — A Pine Twig Mattress — A Sleeping-bag 

— Other Equipment — An Electric Flash Lamp — Packing — A 
Safety Match-box — A Duffle Box — Food Supplies — If you are to 



xviii CONTENTS 

PAGE 

be Cook — Making an Open Fire — The Backwoodsman's Camp 
Fireplace — Pothooks — A Sheet-iron Camp Stove — A Dutch Oven 

— A Camp Fireless Cooker — To build a Fire — Camp Furniture — 
A Camp Chair — A Camp Table — A Good Table Bench — A Com- 
fortable Box Bench — Box Cupboards. 

CHAPTER XXII 

A Home-made Punt 351 

Dimensions — Material — The Side Boards — The Stem- and 
Stern-pieces — The Bottom Boards — An Inner Keel Board — Seats 

— Rowlocks — Thole-pins — The Painter — Finishing. 

CHAPTER XXIII 
A Home-made Sharpie . . . . . . . . .356 

Dimensions — The Side-pieces — The Stem-piece — The Stern- 
piece — The Stretcher — To put the Pieces Together — The Bottom 
Boards — The Skeg — An Inner Keel Board — Seats — Finishing 
the Bow — The Painter — An Easily Made Rudder — The Rowlock 
Blocks — Rowlocks or Thole-pins — Finishing. 

CHAPTER XXIV 

PUSHMOBILES AND OtHER HOME-MADE WAGONS .... 364 

Where to get Wheels — What a Pushmobile Is — The Flushing 
Pushmobile Club — The Vanderbilt Cup Race — Description of a 
Pushmobile Race — Organizing Pushmobile Clubs — To construct 
a Pushmobile — The Iron Axles — The Wooden Axles — The 
Wagon-bed — The Steering-wheel — The Hood — The Radiator- 
front — The Seat — Headlights — Side Lamps — A Clock-case Side 
Lamp — Paintings The License Number — A Racing Pushmobile. 

An Auto Wagon — The Steering-wheel — Another Steering-gear 

— The Seat — A Trip Gong. 

A Simple Push Wagon — The Wagon-bed — The Rear Wheels 

— The Axle for the Front Wheels. 

CHAPTER XXV 
Bird-houses 379 

Designing the Bird-house and choosing a Location for It — 
Materials out of which to make Bird-houses — A Box Bird-house 



CONTENTS xix 

PAGE 

— Another Box Bird-house — A Bird Tower — A Tin-can Bird 
Tower — A Bird Castle — A Bird Ark — A Wall Bracket Bird Ark 

— A House and Swing — A Hanging House — A Shelter. 

CHAPTER XXVI 

Houses for Pets 389 

A Dog-house — A Rabbit-hutch — Galvanized Poultry-netting, 
Twist Wire Cloth, and Wire Cloth for Fronts of Hutches and Cages 

— A Breeding Hutch— A Two-story Rabbit-hutch — A Rabbit 
Yard — A Cage for White Rats — An Elevated "Race-track" — 
Painting — Floor Covering — Drinking Receptacles — A Pigeon- 
cote. 

CHAPTER XXVH 
A Castle Club-house and Home-made Armor .... 404 
Material — The Framework — The Floor Joists — The Corner 
Turrets — Boarding up the Walls — To cut the Openings — The 
Roof — If the Roof Leaks — The Battlement — Secret Treasure 
Vaults — The Drawbridge — To counterbalance the Drawbridge — 
A Windlass — A Moat. 

Home-made Armor — A Helmet — A Shield — A Sword. 

CHAPTER XXVni 

A Boys' Band of Home-made Instruments 416 

The Neighborhood Parade — Materials out of which to make the 
Imitation Instruments — A Cornet — A Trombone — A Bass Horn 

— A Fife — A Bass Drum — Cymbals — The Drum-stick — Snare- 
drums — The Drum Major — A Splendid "Bearskin" Cap — The 
Drum Major's Staff — The Major's Whistle — Uniforms — Organiz- 
ing a Band — How the Band will be useful in the Home Circus, 
Vaudeville, and Other Shows — A Boy Scout Band. 

Index 427 



LIST OF HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS 

(In addition to more than five hundred text illustrations.) 



PART I 

A Boy Craftsman in his Workshop 

Factory of the Juvenile Manufacturing Co. 



Frontispiece 



FACING PAGE 



A Basement Workshop ......... 2 

A Corner of the Author's Home Workroom ...... 86 

Fig. 108. — Whisk-Broom Holder 



Fig. 109. 

Figs, no and in. 

Figs. 

Figs. 

Fig. 124 

Fig. 125 

Figs. 13 

Fig- 133 

Fig. 

Fig. 

Fig. 

Fig. 

Fig. 



134 
139 
140 
141 
142 
206 
210 
215 
223 
224 



Fig. 
Fig. 
Fig. 
Fig. 
Fig. 
Figs 
Fig. 228 
Fig. 229 
Fig. 230 
Fig. 231 
Fig. 232 
Fig. 233 
Fig. 234 



Clock-Shelf 

Necktie-Racks 
1 2-1 14. — Book-Racks 
22 and 123. — Tabourets 1 

— Plant Stand I . 

— Footstool J 
and 132. — Magazine-Racks 

— Music-Cabinet 

— Umbrella-Stand 

— A Roman Chair 

— A Mission Chair 

— A Mission Writing-Desk 

— An Electric Lamp 

— Construct Your Chest-Weights First 

— Where to Hang the Striking-Bag 

— The Doorway Chinning-Bar is Easily Put Up 

— An Express-Wagon | 

— A Cart .... 



225 and 226. — Two Views of an '^ Auto Delivery-Wagon " 

— A Jack-in-the-Box 

— The Skeleton of the Jack-in-the-Box 

— A Round-Seated Chair 

— A Round Center-Table 

— A Dining-Table 

— A Square-Seated Chair 

— A Doll's Cradle 



104 

no 
124 

128 

170 

178 
180 



182-183 



XXll 



LIST OF HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS 



FACING PAGE 



Fig. 238. — A Key-Board 


1 




Fig. 239. — A Corner Clock-Shelf 




Fig. 240. — A Whisk-Broom Holder 




Fig. 241. — A Kitchen Match-Box 




Fig. 242. — A Cottage Pipe-Rack and Match-Box , 




Fig. 253. — A Merry-Go-Round 




Fig. 254. — A Clockwork Motor 




Fig. 255. — A Ferris Wheel 




Fig. 256. — A Flying Airship 




Fig. 360. — The " Torpedo-boats 


'» Furnish the Only Means of Attack 



184 



190 



at Close Range 280 



PART II 



Aero Club of the Chicago Calumet High School 1 

A Model Aeroplane Meet of the Calumet Aero Club J 

Some Good Forms of Model Aeroplanes 

Wall Tent, Eight Feet by Ten Feet, with Fly 

Flapjacks for Two 

Some of the Competing Cars in the Flushing Pushmobile Club Races 

Winning Car in the Vanderbilt Cup Race 1 

At the Start Off. A Flushing Pushmobile Club Race} 



Fig. 483 
Fig. 484 
Fig. 485 
Fig. 486 
Fig. 506 
Fig. 515 
Fig. 530 
Fig. 531 
Fig. 532 



— A Bird Tower 

— A Bird Castle 

— A Bird Ark 

— A House and Swing 

— The Castle Club-House .... 

— A Boy Knight with His Home-Made Armor 

— The Cornet ^ 

— The Trombone I .... . 

— The Bass Horn I 



297 
302 
340 
364 
366 

382 

404 
412 

416 




PART I 

Autumn and^\^iitcr 
Handicraft 




CHAPTER I 
THE HOME WORKSHOP 




With the coming of autumn and the beginning of 
the new school year, the majority of you boys who 
have enjoyed all summer the freedom of outdoor life 
probably pick up your books with a feeling of regret 
that you must knuckle down again to studies. But 
as soon as you meet all the boys and get to talking 
over last year's good times, your old school enthusi- 
asm returns ; then when some one proposes something 
interesting to do, you at once fall into line with the 
other fellows in offering suggestions, and the chances 
are that before the day is over you are ready to admit 
that school life is pretty good after all. In the course 
of a day or so football is under way, and possibly plans 
have developed for an athletic club and literary society, 
while all sorts of schemes have been undertaken by 
groups of boys who have found that they can work 
together congenially, and very likely each boy has 
mapped out a lot of individual work to do. These 
outside interests help probably more than anything 
else to keep school from becoming monotonous. 



2 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

To be able to fix up a club-room or make furniture 
for your own room, construct apparatus for a " gym " 
and prepare the various " properties " for school or 
neighborhood " shows " ; to be able to build wagons, 
boats, sleds, kites, model aeroplanes, and other things 
just a little better than those the other fellows have 
made; to be able to make pieces of handicraft which 
will be presentable as Christmas and birthday gifts 
to your friends and relatives ; in short, to be handy 
about doing things in general is an accomplishment 
which every one of you boys should strive to attain; 
but before you can expect to do all of these things 
well it will be necessary for you to know not only how 
to use carpenters' tools properly, but also how to go 
about the v/ork in the right way. This is the author's 
reason for beginning this book of handicraft for you 
with instructions upon manual training. 

Unless you have a workshop, or at least a space 
large enough in which to set up a work bench, you 
will be handicapped for any kind of home carpentry, 
for to get good results it is necessary to have some- 
thing strong and solid to work upon and a vise which 
will hold your pieces of work firmly. The basement, 
attic, a spare room, the wood shed, and the barn sug- 
gest possibilities for fitting up a good workshop, but in 

Selecting a Suitable Place there are several important 
things to consider. The shop should have good light, 
it should be dry, to prevent your stock from getting wet 




A Basement Workshop. 



THE HOME WORKSHOP 3 

and your tools from rusting, and it should be located 
conveniently, so that material can easily be carried in 
and out, and far enough away from the living-room and 
bedrooms so that your hammering will not disturb 
any one. Of course, some of you will have no choice 
in the matter and will have to take any place you can 
get, but in this case make the best of the conditions 
for the time being and perhaps something better will 
turn up later on. If you locate your shop in the base- 
ment or attic, it will be a good idea to partition off 
a space as large as you will need and provide a door 
with a padlock which can be locked to keep things 
from being tampered with by younger hands. The 
building of a partition is described on page 149 and 
illustrated by Figs. 172 to 175. If there isn't any 

Gas or Electric Light within the space partitioned 
off, it will also be a good plan to run a piece of rub- 
ber tubing from the nearest gas-jet, or a drop-cord 
from an electric fixture (see photograph opposite page 
2), over to a point near the left end of your bench, 
so you can have light when the days are dark or when- 
ever you wish to work in the evening. 

Cabinet-made Benches can be bought at any of the 
large stores where tools are sold, for from $7.50 to 
$50, but one of these will serve your purposes no better 
than the old-fashioned 

Home-made Bench to be found in almost every carpen- 
ter shop. One of these can be made by any boy, out of 



4 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

pine, cypress, or whitewood. The well-made cabinet 
benches have maple tops, but it is not necessary to go to 
the expense of buying maple for your bench, as softer 
material will do just as well. Dressed i-inch, i;|-inch, 
or 2-inch stock may be used for the top, 2-by-4-inch stuff 
for the framework, and i-inch boards for the aprons and 
rails ; 4-by-4-inch stock is often used for bench legs, but 
" 2-by-4's " are plenty heavy enough and generally easier 
to get. 

Figure i shows 

A Solid Work Bench, 2 feet 8 inches high, with a top 5 
feet long and 24 inches wide. This is a good size to 
make your bench if you are crowded for room. If you 
would like to have it longer, it is a simple matter to add 
whatever you wish to the lengths given for the different 
pieces, and if you find that it is going to be too high for 
you, it is easy enough to saw off the legs before making 
the vise. Figure 2 shows the framework with the dif- 
ferent members lettered. Cut the four legs A 2 feet 
8 inches long, less the thickness of the crosspieces B 
(if inches) and the top, the 2-by-4-inch crosspieces B 
22-inches long, the end rails C 22 inches long by 3f 
inches wide, and the front and back rails D 4 feet long 
by 3f inches wide. Spike crosspieces B to the tops 
of the legs, and rails C to the sides 8 inches from the 
lower ends; then stand the frames thus formed on end 
and connect them by means of rails D. Cut a front 
and a rear apron {E, Fig. 2) 5 feet long, out of lo-inch 




Fig. I. — a Solid Work Bench- 




FiG. 2. — Detail of Framework. 
5 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



boards, saw off the ends on the diagonal as shown, and 
then either nail or screw them to the bench legs, placing 
them with their top edges even with the top of cross- 
pieces B and with their ends projecting the same dis- 
tance beyond the ends of the bench framework. The 
bench top may be made of three pieces 8 inches wide, or 

of any combina- 



SOCKET. 




CBLOCKOUT- ^ 
BACK OF- LEG 
IF SCREW-IS 
NOT- THREADED 
^ AS- FAR -BACK 





Fig. 4. 



Fig. 3. 



Figs. 3-5. — Details of the Bench-vise. 



tion of widths 
that will make 
up a total of 24 
inches, and these 
pieces should be 
fastened to cross- 
pieces B with 
screws. Counter- 
sink the screw- 
heads. Finish 
the ends of the 



bench by fitting pieces of lo-inch board between the 
aprons, as shown in Fig. i. 

Figures 3, 4, and 5 show the details for making 
The Bench-vise. Cut \}a^ jaw about 31 inches long out 
of a piece of i J-inch or 2-inch stuff 6 inches wide, and 
the sliding strip 3 inches wide and 14 inches long out 
of a I -inch board, and bore ten -|-inch holes through the 
sliding strip about \ inch on centers and staggered as 
shown. There are several ways of fastening the sliding 
strip to the jaw, two of which are shown in Figs. 3 and 4. 



THE HOME WORKSHOP 7 

By nailing the jaw to the end of the strip, as in Fig. 
3, it is necessary to mortise the bench leg for it to 
slide through, while if you set the strip into the side of 
the jaw, as in Fig. 4, a pocket must be built on to the side 
of the leg. If you mortise the leg, make the mortise 
about J inch larger all around than the strip, so there 
will be plenty of clearance, and locate the bottom of it 3 
or 4 inches above the floor. After fastening the sliding 
strip to the jaw, slip the end through the mortise — or 
through the pocket, push the jaw up against the apron 
of the bench, and drive a couple of nails through it to 
hold it temporarily in place. 

An Iron Bench-screw, socket and wooden handle (Fig. 
4), can be bought at almost any hardware store for 50 
cents. If this screw is i J inches in diameter, describe a 
circle i^ inches in diameter on the face of the jaw, 8 
inches below the bench top, and then bore a hole of the 
same diameter through the jaw, the apron, and the bench- 
leg (see " Cutting Large Holes," page 142). With a chisel 
enlarge the hole on the inside face of the leg (you had 
better turn the bench over upon its side to do this) so 
the iron socket will set into the leg flush with the sur- 
face ; then, after screwing the socket to the leg, trim the 
hole in the jaw so the collar on the handle end of the 
screw will set flat against the jaw, and screw the plate in 
place. Some of the bench-screws are made to go through 
heavier stuff than we have used for the legs, and their 
threads stop within 3 or 4 inches of the collar plate ; in 



8 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

this case it becomes necessary to set the socket into an 
extra block of wood (Fig. 5) and to spike this block to the 
back of the leg; otherwise, the jaw would not close entirely. 
Trim off the top of the jaw even with the bench top and 
bevel the outer edge (Figs, i and 4), then remove the 
temporary nails. Cut a peg to fit in the holes in the 
sliding strip, and whenever you use the vise, stick this peg 
into the proper hole to keep the bottom of the jaw from 
pushing in farther than the upper portion ; the jaw must 
be kept vertical in order to make it grip a piece of wood 
squarely. 

Bore several rows of f-inch holes through the front 
apron, as shown in Fig. i, and cut a peg to fit in them. 
This peg may be adjusted to support the end of any 
length of board placed in the vise. 

Never clamp screws, nails, or other pieces of metal in 
your vise without placing them first between blocks of 
wood, as they will cut up the face of the jaw and bench 
apron and soon make the vise unfit to hold your nice 
work. It is a good plan to have 

An Iron Vise for metal work ; one of these can be pur- 
chased for from 50 cents to $1 and may be screwed to 
the right end of your bench (Figs, i and 6). 

Figure 6 shows 

A Work Bench with Tool Drawers, which is almost as 
simple to make as the one just described. The drawers 
are grocery boxes and slide into the ends of the bench 
on the upper rails of the framework (Fig. 7). The bench 




Fig. 



6. _ A Work Bench ^vith Tool Drawers. 




YiQ, 7. —Detail of Framework. 



lO 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



illustrated is 6 feet long, 24 inches wide, and 2 feet 8 
inches high, but as mentioned before you may change 
these dimensions to suit your conditions, and if you prefer 
to make a cabinet for your tools instead of keeping them 
in the bench, the drawers may be used to hold supplies. 
Figure 7 shows the framework of the bench. Make 
the end frames as described for the other bench, fasten 
them 4 feet 2 inches apart with the front and back rails 
D, and then cut the upper rails E which form the 
drawer slides and nail them to the legs 8 inches below 
crosspieces B. If you cannot find boxes of the proper 
size for 

The Tool Drawers, larger boxes may be cut down, or you 
can build up drawers to fit. Provide the drawers with 
removable trays, such as are described for 
the tool-chest shown in Fig. 43, page 31. 
Nail two guide strips (G, Fig. 8) to the 
bottom of the drawers and fasten an iron 
drawer-pull or a wooden handle to the front. 
Then nail two striking blocks to the back 
(77, Fig. 7) to prevent the drawers from 
pulling out of the bench, and two cross- 
pieces {F) in the proper places to stop the drawers when 
they have been pushed in flush with the ends of the 
bench. Figure 6 shows 

A Tool Tray recessed in the bench top — a good arrange- 
ment, as it provides a place to lay tools while working. 
This top may be made by placing a 12-inch plank along 




Fig. 8.— Box 
Tool Drawer. 



THE HOME WORKSHOP 



II 




the front of the top, an 8-inch board back of it, and a 

piece of 2-by-4 back of that again (Fig. 9), and then 

blocking out the ends of the 

board flush with the top of 

the planking. To finish off 

the ends of the bench, fit in 

strips around the drawers. Fig. 9 

Before adjustable bench- 
stops were put upon the market, a carpenter had to devise 
various makeshifts for shoving work against for planing 
and for other operations, and as many of these are still in 
use, I am going to show you a few of the good forms of 

Home-made Bench-stops, so in case it is not convenient 
to buy an iron stop, you can equip your bench with one 

Fig. II ^ Fig. 12. 



Plan for a Bench Top with 
Tool Tray. 




Fig. 10. 



Figs. 10-14. — Home-made Bench-stops. 

of these. The stop shown in Fig. 10 consists of a short 
strip of wood, which is screwed in place to the bench 



12 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

top, and the screw-heads are countersunk as a protection 
for your edge tools. By screwing the strip in place, it is 
easily removed when you wish to have the bench top 
clear. Figure 1 1 shows a block with a " V " notch cut in 
it. This will hold the ends of narrow pieces of work. 
Screw stops (Fig. 12) are a favorite form, as they are 
easily adjusted to a required height by giving them a few 
turns with a screw-driver. The peg stops shown in Fig. 

13 have a big advantage in the fact that they are quickly 
removed. Bore two f -inch holes through the bench, cut 
the pegs to fit loosely in them so they may be adjusted to 
the proper heights for different pieces of work, and drive 
in a hammer wedge, or a wooden wedge, at the side of the 
pegs to hold them in position. The stop shown in Fig. 

14 is similar to that shown in Fig. 10, except that it is 
held in place with bolts instead of screws. 
Get two f-inch carriage-bolts about 4 
inches long, and cut several strips of 
wood about 8 inches long and of different 
thicknesses. Bore two |-inch holes, 5 
inches apart, through the bench top and 

Fig. 15. — An Ad- through the strips for the bolts to drop 
JUS a e enc -s op. |-]^J-Q^g]^^ ^^^ countcrsink for the bolt- 
heads. This stop is handy, as the strips may be inter- 
changed to suit work of different thicknesses. Figure 

15 shows 

An Adjustable Bench-stop which retails for 50 cents. The 
pm in the center of this stop is released by giving the 




THE HOME WORKSHOP 



13 



screw marked A a few turns with a screw-driver, and 
may be set to the proper height for your work and 
dropped flush with the plate when not in use. Mortise 
the bench top for the stop, and set the plate flush with 
the top. 

The other shop equipment is described in the follow- 
ing chapter. 




Better results may be obtained with a few tools of 
the best quality than with an entire outfit of cheaper 
grade. Remember that, boys, when 

Purchasing Tools, and be sure that you get those made 
by reliable manufacturers instead of the toy variety, for 
though they will cost considerably more, their better 
wearing qualities will make them cheaper in the long 
run. You will find new-fangled tools for every conceiv- 
able form of work in the modern carpenter shop, but do 
not imagine for a minute that it is necessary to have 
these in order to perform the operations for which they 
are especially made. A good mechanic can complete 
almost any kind of a job with a handful* of tools, but 
special tools do the work so very much quicker that they 
are adopted as time-saving devices, and usually are worth 
many times their cost in a large shop. 

Unless you have received instruction in manual train- 
ing, the variety of styles and sizes in which tools are 
made may make the selection of an outfit difficult ; so 
to provide 



14 



TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT 15 

A Handy Guide for Purchasing, the more desirable forms 
and sizes of all the tools which an amateur is ever likely 
to require have been described and illustrated upon the 
following pages. 

A hatchet, hammer, saw, plane, chisel, jack-knife, bit 
and brace, screw-driver and square are mentioned in 
" The Boy Craftsman " as 

The Principal Tools which a boy requires. If you can- 
not afford more at the start, add to them as soon as you 
can. Figure 16 shows illustrations of . 

A Small Outfit which a boy will find sufficient for any 
kind of ordinary carpentry. Every tool in this outfit is 
an important tool and one which you will find necessary 
for general use. As your money permits, you will wish 
to add to these tools several sizes of chisels and bits, one 
or two saws, and such other tools as are used in advanced 
w^ork, and in this way you can increase your outfit, until 
before long you will have a fairly complete set of tools 
of which you may be proud. 

First of all, you will need a good 

Jack-knife. By this is not meant a four-blade pocket- 
knife with a polished pearl handle, but just a common 
knife, strongly made, and having blades of steel properly 
tempered so they will hold an edge. A two-blade knife 
with wooden handle similar to that shown in Fig. 16 is 
a desirable form for all-round work, and is made in a 
medium-priced knife with blades of a good quality of 
steel. 



i6 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



For general use 

A Hatchet with a claw (Fig. i6) is to be preferred to 
one without, as it may be used for withdrawing nails as 




Fig. 1 6. — A Small Tool Outfit. 

The most important tools, showing desirable forms and sizes. Additional tools may 
be selected from those shown and described upon the following pages, as your money 
permits and your work requires their use. 

well as driving them. In buying a hatchet, select one 
of medium weight and see that it balances nicely when 



TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT 17 

you swing it, for, if unevenly balanced, it is cumbersome 
to handle and tires out the hand and arm muscles need- 
lessly. This is a point also to be looked out for in buying 

A Hammer. Get a medium-sized claw hammer, either 
with a bell face (Fig. 16) or a plain face, — it does not 
matter which, — and if possible get one with the head 
fastened on with patent-lock wedges which make it im- 
possible for it to loosen and fly off. 

An ordinary 

Tack Hammer is handy for working in small corners, 
but can easily be dispensed with for ordinary work. A 
much more useful hammer is the 

Crate Opener shown in Fig. 1 7, which is handy not only 
for prying boxes apart, but also for driving and withdraw- 
ing tacks and small nails. It may be used for numerous 
small jobs, and its con- ^^ 

. . m f^JG. 17 

venient size makes it pos- 



I 



sible to carry it about in 
one's hip pocket. y\g. 18. 

A Nail-set is required 

for driving nail-heads be- Fig. 17. -Crate Opener. 

, , r r 1 Fig. 18. — Wooden. Mallet. 

low the surface of work 

before finishing it. A cut iron nail may be used, but it 
is not as satisfactory as the regular nail-set shown in 
Fig. 16. You will find it handy to have two sizes, one 
for finishing-nails^ the other for commoii nails. 

It is advisable to have 

A Wooden Mallet (Fig. 18) for mortising and cutting 



i8 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

where it is necessary to drive the chisel or gouge, as the 
use of a hammer soon spHts down the end of the handle. 
This is also useful for knocking together the members of 
halved, mortise- and- tenon, and other joints. 

The Cross-cut Saw (Fig. i6) is made to cut across the 
grain of wood. It will also cut with the grain, but as the 
teeth ^ are not properly prepared for rippmg, the work is 
slower to do. When money permits, you should add a 
22-inch 

Rip-saw to your outfit. The 

Compass-saw (Fig. i6) is made especially for cutting 
curves, the teeth being filed to cut with as well as across 
the grain, and it is handy for sawing thin wood. A 
finer saw which you may prefer to the compass-saw is the 

Keyhole-saw, made for cutting keyholes as the name 
would imply, and used for various other small jobs. This 
is often made to fit in a handle similar to that of the 
compass-saw, but the more common form is the one 
which fits in di pad, as shown in Fig. 19. Other forms of 
saws which you will want to add to your outfit as soon 
as possible are the 

Back-saw, shown in Fig. 59, a saw made with fine teeth 
(get one with fourteen teeth to the inch) and intended 
for very fine cutting — such as for making miter-joints, 
cutting tenons, etc., and either a 

Coping-saw or Bracket-saw (Figs. 20 and 21) for saw- 

^ See notes regarding the teeth of the Cross-cut Saw and the Rip-saw on 
page 21 of " The Boy Craftsman.'" 



/ 



TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT 19 

ing very thin wood, such as that of cigar boxes. If you 
own a 

Scroll-saw, it will answer the purposes of both of the 
latter for shop use. 

A Jack-plane (Fig. 16) fitted with a smoathing-plane 
iron is to be preferred to a smoothing-plane, if one plane 
must be chosen, for its long sole 
(bottom face) makes it easier to 
plane up a surface without hollow- 
ing it. This plane, thus equipped, 
may be used for both reducing 
thicknesses of material and re- 
moving undressed surfaces (the 
purpose of the jack-plane), as 
well as planing up surfaces true 
and smooth (the purpose of the 
smoothing-plane). The jack- 
plane iron has its cutting edge 
slightly rounded, instead of being ground straight across 
like the smoothing-plane iron, in order to make it gouge 
out the wood and thus reduce thicknesses quickly, so you 
will readily see that it cannot be expected to straighten up 
a surface. Of course you can buy the two irons and make 
the plane the equivalent of a jack- and a smoothing-plane. 
The Stanley " Bailey " adjustable iron plane shown in 
the illustration is a better form to purchase than the old- 
fashioned plane with a wooden stock, as it is so easily 
adjusted. The No. 5 size (Fig. 16) is 14 inches long 




Fig. 19. 

Fig. 19. — Keyhole-saw. 
Fig. 20. — Coping-saw. 
Fig. 21. — Bracket-saw. 



20 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



and about the right length. As soon as you can do so, 
buy a 

Smoothing-plane in addition to the jack-plane, for the 
two planes will save you a considerable amount of ad- 
justment of the cutting irons. The 

Fore-plane has an 1 8-inch sole, and is made long 
for the purpose of removing the high places left by 
the jack-plane and straightening the surface before 
smoothing up with the smoothing-plane, but it may 
easily be dispensed with by the amateur. Among the 
many other forms of planes upon the market, you will 
find a 

Rabbet-plane (Fig. 22), useful in cabinet making for 
rabbeting your work (Fig. 75, page 59 — the plane-iron, 
or cutter^ can be adjusted to any 
bbet up to i^ 




ra 



Fig. 22. — Rabbet-plane. 



desired width of 
inches), and the 

Dado-plane (Fig. 23), which is 
made for grooving (Fig. 75, page 
59). As the plane-stock of the 
dado-plane must be of the same size 
as the cutter, it is necessary to select 
Fig. 23. — Dado-plane. q^c having the width of cutter for 
which you will have the greatest need, for you will not 
likely wish to purchase more than one dado-plane. Of 
course, if you live near a mill, you can get all of your 
rabbeting and grooving done there, and it will hardly pay 
you to bother with it, or to purchase these tools. 




TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT 21 



It is a good plan to invest in a 

Ratchet-brace when buying a bit-stock, as it can be used 
in so many places where an ordinary brace cannot. The 
ratchet arrangement makes it possible to so set the brace 
that, when boring a hole or driving a screw in a corner 
or close to something w^hich prevents a full sweep, the 
handle may be worked back and forth. Buy a brace 
with at least an 8-inch sweep; a shorter 
sweep than this does not give sufficient 
leverage. 

A |-inch and a f-inch auger-bit are in- 
cluded among the tools shown in Fig. 16. 
Of course, it is often necessary to bore 
holes of other sizes, and 

Auger-bits J inch, ^ inch, f inch, and 
I inch in size should be added to these 
as you find need of them. Bits are made 
in Y^-inch sizes, and the number of six- 
teenths is stamped upon the shank. Fig- 
ure 24 shows an 

Expansive-bit, the small size of which is provided with 
two cutters — one adjustable to bore holes ranging from 
J inch to |- inch and the other from |- inch to i^ inches ; 
and the large size with two cutters — one boring holes 
from I" inch to if inches, the other from if inches to 3 
inches. By having one of the large sizes of these bits it 
is not necessary to buy auger-bits larger than f inch. 
This tool is very convenient for boring large holes, but 




Fig. 24. 



sive-bit. 

Fig. 25. — Wood 

Drill Bit. 



2 2 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

is not required, as holes larger than i inch in diameter 
may be cut as described on page 142 and illustrated in 
Fig. 156. Figure 25 shows a 

Wood Drill Bit. This is made in g^-inch sizes, running 
from -^ inch (No. 2) to || inch (No. 14). Unless you 
have an automatic drill a few of these will be required 
for drilling holes for screws in hard wood. They are 
very delicate tools and "twist off " very easily, and must 
not be removed from a hole by reversing the brace, but 
by continuing to turn it in the same direction, pulling up 
on the head of the brace at the same time until it has 
loosened itself. 

Brad-awls are the simplest and cheapest tools manu- 
factured for making very small holes for nails and screws 
(Fig. 16). They are sold in various sizes, one or two of 
which will be useful. A 

Scratch-awl differs from a brad-awl in the end, which 
is pointed instead of chisel-shaped. It is used for mark- 
ing work, but a jack-knife will serve the purpose just as 
well. A 

Hand Gimlet (Fig. 16) is also handy for boring small 
holes. 

For countersinking screw-heads below the surface of a 
piece of wood you should have a 

Rose Countersink Bit to fit in your brace (Fig. 16). 
This is used after a screw hole has been bored, and 
bevels off the edge of the hole enough to let the screw- 
head drop below the surface. ' 



TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT 



An Automatic Drill is a great convenience and time 
saver (Fig. 26). It is used largely for drilling holes for 
screws and finishing-nails, and is especially handy for 
drilling in places where even a ratchet-brace cannot be 
used. With this tool is furnished eight drills, varying 
in size from -^^ inch to ^ inch, which 
come either in the handle or in an extra 
box. A handier tool than this, though 
costing about twice as much, is a 

Spiral-ratchet Screw-driver (Fig. 27). 
This may be set to drive or withdraw by 
moving a small s/zde to one end or the 
other of a slot on the side, or the spiral 
may be locked to make a ratchet screw- 
driver by giving the milled shell just below 
the slide a half turn. Three screw-drivers 
of different sizes are included with this 
tool, and a chuck to hold drills, together 
with eight sizes of drills, may be purchased 
for a small additional amount, which makes this tool 
serve the double purpose of drill and screw-driver. But 
the spiral-ratchet screws-driver may easily be dispensed 
with if you have an ordinary 6-inch 

Hand Screw-driver and a medium-sized 

Screw-driver Bit (Fig. 16). 

A f-inch chisel is included in the outfit shown in Fig. 
16. This size will be found best for a starter. You will 
soon require a smaller chisel — one about \ inch wide, 




Fig. 27. 
Spiral- 
ratchet 
Screw- 
driver. 



Fig. 26. 
Auto- 
matic 
Drill. 



24 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



and when you have advanced with your work you will 
find that at least five 

Firmer Chisels, the kind made for ordinary light work, 
— sizes J inch, | inch, ^ inch, f inch, and i inch, — will 
be necessary. For any very heavy work, such as outside 
building, you will also require a 

Framing or Mortising Chisel, which is made stronger 
for this purpose — i^ inches or i|- inches wide. Some 
firmer chisels are beveled upon the face edges of the 

blade to make them handy for get- 
ting into corners (Fig. 28). For 
cutting curved grooves and curved 
surfaces a 

Gouge is required. This is simi- 
lar to a chisel except that its blade 
is curved instead of straight (Fig. 
29). A |-inch and a J-inch gouge 
will answer most purposes. Chisel 
and gouge handles are rounded on 
the ends for hand use (Fig. 29), but 
for heavier work, where a mallet is 
necessary, they should be protected by a leather cap 
(Fig. 16) or a metal ferrule (Fig. 28), to keep the wood 
from splitting. The chisel or gouge which fits into the 
handle (Fig. 29) is strong enough for hand use (^paring), 
but those made with sockets for the handles to fit into 
(Fig. 28) are better for mortising and other work where 
driving is necessary. A 




Fig. 28. Fig. 29. Fig. 30. 
Beveled Gouge. Cold- 
Chisel, chisel. 



TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT 25 




Fig. 32. — Spoke-shave. 



Cold-chisel (Fig. 30) is often needed for cutting metal 
and is a good tool for you to add to your outfit when 
you can do so. 

A Draw-knife (Fig. 31) is handy for quickly reducing a 
narrow piece of wood in thickness and for cutting curved 
surfaces. It must be used care- 
fully, however, as it will follow 
the grain of a piece of wood 
and is apt to split off more than 
is desired, as is the danger 
in paring with a hatchet. A 

Spoke-shave (Fig. 32) is used to smooth up a curved 
surface after it has been roughly cut with a draw-knife, 
hatchet, or chisel, just as the smooth- 
ing-plane is used to smooth up a 
straight surface. This is not an ex- 
pensive tool and will be of more use 
to you than a draw-knife ; buy it first. 
A Half-round Wood-file (Fig. 16) 
may be used for smoothing up all 
sorts of irregular surfaces and is the 
best kind to purchase for a small out- 
fit of tools. The 
Handiest Forms of Files are shown 
in Fig. '^^2)- The wood-rasp is a very coarse file for wood 
working, while the rattailfile, the slim taper file, and the 
flat metalfile are made with finer teeth and are intended 
for metal work. A wood-file must not be used upon 



n 




Fig. 33. — Five Handy 
Forms of Files. 



26 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



metal, as it is not made for cutting surfaces harder 
than wood. 

For laying out work a 

Two-foot Folding Rule (Fig. i6) is required, and either 
a try-square or a carpenter s square is necessary for lay- 
ing out lines at right angles to another line or to the 
edge of a piece of work, for testing corners to see 
whether or not they are square, and for testing surfaces 
for irregularities. The writer prefers a 

Try-square with a mitered handle (Fig. i6), as lines at 
45 degrees may be laid out with it. The large size of 

Carpenter's Steel Square has a body (the long end) 24 
inches long and a tongue (the short end) 18 inches long; 
but a smaller size with a body 18 
inches long and tongue 12 inches 
long (Fig. 16) will serve your pur- 
pose just as well and will be cheaper 
to buy and lighter to handle. 

A Bevel (Fig. 34) is a handy tool 
for laying out angles other than 45 de- 
grees, for laying out bevels, and for re- 
producing angles upon several pieces 
Fig. 34. — Bevel. q£ work. It is like a try-square, only 

instead of being fastened rigid it is made adjustable. 
You can easily do without this tool for ordinary work, but 
it will be useful when you get into advanced work. 

A Marking-gauge (Fig. 16) consists of a block of wood 
(the head) through which slides a graduated stick (the 




TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT 27 



bar) with a point (the spur) near one end (see Fig. 68, 
page 52). The head may be set to any desired distance 
from the spur, then by placing the head against the edge 
of a piece of work and pushing the spur along the sur- 
face, a line can be scratched which will be exactly 
parallel to and at the required distance from the edge. 
The ordinary marking-gauge has only one spur; that 
shown in Fig. 68 has two spurs, is what is known as a 
mortise-gauge (see "Gauging," page 52), and is 
the better form to buy. 

Wing Dividers (Fig. 35) come in handy for a 
number of operations, but are used principally 
for describing circles and laying off measure- 
ments. The thumb-screws make it possible to 
adjust the dividers very accurately to any de- 
sired measurement. Until you can get a pair 
of these you may use a stick with a couple of nails driven 
through it, or a piece of cardboard with a pencil and pin 
pushed through it, for a compass, and measurements 
may be laid off by means of a ritle, a straight-edge (a 
stick with a straight edge), or a piece of paper.^ 




Fig. 35. 

Wing 
Dividers. 



^' 'cgg; 



Fig. 36. — Spirit Level. 

A Level (Fig. 36) is necessary in building construc- 
tion to help the mechanic get his work plumb and 

^A simple method for dividing a distance into a number of equal spaces by 
means of a rule and pencil is shown upon page 46 of " The Boy Craftsman." 



28 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



shop unless 
work rests 



you level 
upon before 



Fig. 37. — Pocket 
Level. 



level, but it is useless in the 
up whatever your piece of 
testing.^ But a 

Pocket Level (Fig. '^'j') is handy for getting approxi- 
mate levels and is cheap enough so every boy can own one. 
A tool with which ten different opera- 

^ ^ >3 =^ ^ tions can be performed is the 

Odd-jobs shown in Fig. 38. Besides 

the three operations indicated in the 

illustration, it may be 

employed as a marking- 
gauge, a mortise-gauge, 

a depth-gauge, a try- 

square, a T-square, a 

scratch-awl, and a rule 

(a 12-inch ruler comes 

The many purposes for 
which this tool may be used make it 
a handy one to carry about for "odd 
jobs." 

A Pair of Cutting Pliers (Fig. 16) will 
serve as pincers and nippers. Besides 
these you will often be in need of a 

Wrench (Fig. 39) for tightening and Fig. 39- - Wrench, 
loosening nuts, and other operations; this will be a good 
addition to make to your outfit when you can afford it. 

^ A satisfactory home-made plumb-board for large work is described on 
page 153. 




Fig. 38. — Odd-jobs. 

with the tool). 




TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT 29 



For holding together glued-up work until the glue has 
set a pair of 

Wood Handscrews (Fig. 40) are handy, as are also 
a pair of 

Cabinet-maker's Clamps (Fig. 41) for holding wide 



glued-up pieces ; but you can dispense with 
both of these by providing yourself with 
several 



^ 



H 



Fig. 40. — Wood 
Handscrews. 



Home-made Clamps of different lengths 
similar to those shown in Fig. 42. These 
consist of two strips with two blocks of 
wood A and B screwed to them 4 or 5 
inches farther apart than the width of the glued-up piece 
^^^ of work. Taper the inner 

P I ^P ^^ 1 edge of blocks A, but leave 

Fig. 41. — Cabinet- maker ^s that of blocks B Square. The 

^^^"^P^* work is laid upon the strips 

with one edge against blocks B, then a strip is placed 

against its other edge for 2i filler, and a pair of wedges 




Fig. 42. — Home-made Clamps for Holding Glued-up Work. 



30 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

with one edge square and the other cut to fit the taper 
on the edge of blocks A are driven in between the filler 
and the blocks. Care must be taken to prevent the 
edges or the center of the work from springing up, when 
" driving home " the wedges, or the surface will be wind- 
ing when the work is removed. 

A Grindstone can usually be dispensed with, as grinding 
is not often required if proper care is taken of the edge 
tools ; and when it is necessary you can usually find a 
friendly carpenter who will allow you to use his stone. 
But you must have a good 

Oilstone. Of the manufactured stones the India oil- 
stone is being very extensively used, while the Lily- 
white and the Rosy-red Washita oilstones are two of 
the best natural stones on the market. Besides an oil- 
stone you must of course have an 

Oiler and a bottle of sperm-oil — or bicycle, automobile, 
or sewing-machine lubricating oil. 

If you have not built tool drawers in the ends of your 
work bench (Figs. 6 and 7), you must make a chest or 
cabinet as soon as possible to protect your tools from 
injury and from being borrowed without your permission. 

When the author received his first outfit of tools when 
a boy, he made 

A Tool-chest out of an old grocery box, this being the 
best material at hand ; and as it was such an easy matter 
to turn this box into a chest and it served the purpose so 
well he has decided to tell you boys how to make one 



TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT 31 

just like it. Figure 43 was drawn from this old chest, 
which the author still has in his possession. The box 
used was, approximately, 26 inches long, 13 inches wide, 
and 9 inches deep, but yours need not be of these exact 




Fig. 43. — A Grocery-box Tool-chest. 

dimensions, only be sure it is long enough to accommodate 
your large tools. 

After selecting your box, renail all loose boards and 
replace any that happen to be split with pieces from 
another box. Fasten together the cover boards with a 
batten at each end {A, Fig. 44) and hinge to the box 
with a pair of strap-hinges as shown. Buy a hinge-hasp 



32 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



and staple (Fig. 45) and a pair of drawer-pulls at a 
hardware-store, screw the hasp to the box cover and the 
staple to the box, and screw the drawer-pulls to the ends 
of the box for handles. As a check to prevent the cover 

from dropping too far back, 
attach a chain to two screw- 
eyes screwed into the cover 
and the box. The tray is 
removable and sets upon two 
cleats or strips nailed to the 
ends of the box. Make this 
tray \ inch shorter than the 




Fig. 45. 
Hinge-hasp 
and Staple. 



Fig. 44. 

How to hinge 

the Cover. 



box, 7 inches wide, and i\ inches deep (inside), and 
put the bottom, sides, and ends together in the same way 
that a box is made. 

Fasten a block with holes of the proper size drilled in 
it to the inside of the cover, in which to stick such tools 
as the brad-awls, screw-driver bits, wood drills and nail- 
sets, and tack some loops of leather to the cover for the 
squares to slide in. The upper end of the carpenter's 
square is held by a couple of screw-hooks, and is released 
by giving one hook a quarter-turn. The small tools — 
the chisels, auger-bits, screw-driver, etc. — should be 
kept in the tray, and the large tools — the saw, planes, 
bit-brace, etc. — in the bottom of the chest. Notch the 
top edge of the box and tray, if necessary, to accommo- 
date the tools on the cover. 

When you have completed your chest, sandpaper it 



TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT ss 



well, then give the inside and the tray a coat of boiled 
linseed-oil and the outside a coat of paint or oil stain. 

A plan for an easily made 

Tool Cabinet is illustrated and described in " The Boy 
Craftsman." This is a very simple affair made out of a 
box with the cover boards battened together for a door. 
The author has been asked for a plan for making a 
paneled door for a cabinet, and as others of you may also 
wish to panel the door, to make a neater-appearing 
cabinet, he suggests that 3^ou follow the directions given 
for making the door of the Music Cabmet described on 
page 124 (see Fig. 137), which is the simplest way for 
a boy to make a paneled door. 

A tool cabinet is the handier receptacle for keeping 
tools within easy reach ; but 
a chest is to be preferred 
if the tools must be carried 
about, which is often neces- 
sary where the shop is 
located in a damp place, to 
keep them from rusting. 
In case you make a chest, 

A Tool-rack on the wall 

back of the bench is a good 

arrangement for holding 

,, , , , ., Fig. 46. — A Tool-rack. 

the tools while you are 

working. In the photograph opposite page 2 is shown 

such a rack, and Fig. 46 shows how it may be put 




34 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



together. The chisels, auger-bjts, wood drills, awls, and 
screw-driver stick into the holes bored through the bottom 
shelf, and the ends of the small bits are supported by a 
small bracket fastened below the shelf. Nails and spools 
hold the other tools. In the same photograph you will 
see how boxes may be bracketed to the wall for 

Open Shelves for your paint-cans, varnishes, and other 
supplies, and how a shelf may be supported above the 
rack for miscellaneous articles ; also how the under part 
of the work bench may be utilized for 

Material Boxes by fastening boards across the rails to 
hold them. 

Nails and screws should be kept in some kind of 
order, so the sizes wanted may be got quickly without 

unnecessary hunt- 
ing, and several re- 
ceptacles for these 
are shown in Figs. 
47 to 52. The 

Partitioned Nail 
Box (Figs. 47-49) 
will hold six differ- 
ent lengths of nails. 
Cut the back and 
bottom {A and C, 
Fig. 48) 3 feet long 
by 8 inches wide, the front (B) the same length by 5 
inches wide, and the partitions and end pieces {£>, Fig. 




Ftg. 47- 




Fig. 48. Fig. 49. 

Figs. 47-49- — Details of Partitioned Nail 
Box. 



TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT 35 

49) 6 inches wide by 6 inches high at the back and 5 
inches high at the front. Nail together the front, back, 
and end pieces, then nail on the bottom and fasten the 
partitions in place so as to divide the box into six 
equal spaces. The box may either be screwed to the 
wall or hung upon hooks. If you screw it, do this be- 
fore putting on the cover. Cut the hinge-strip {E, Fig. 
49) I inch wide by the length of the box and nail it in 
place to the partition tops. The cover may be made in 
one piece, or in two as in ¥ig. 47; hinge it to the hinge- 
strip. Mark the sizes of the nails upon the front of the 
box, and fasten nails of corresponding sizes in front of the 
receptacles with small staples or bent-over brads to help 
you to associate the lengths with the size numbers. 
This box has been planned for commo7t 7zails and to hold 
sizes ranging from \\ inches to 3^ inches long (4-penny 
to i6-penny). 

Another Box may be made to hold finishing-nails, 
papers of brads and tacks, and spikes (20-, 30-, 40-, 50-, 
and 6p-penny nails). Bolts and screws may be kept in a 
third box. 

Empty tin cans and cigar boxes are easy for any boy 
to get and make excellent 

Receptacles for Nails, Screws, and Brads. There is a 
can with a removable lid in which molasses and sirup 
comes (Fig. 50) that is very handy, and baking-powder 
cans and even tomato cans, if the solder around the rim 
of their opened end is melted and the end pulled off, 



36 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 




Fig. 50. 



Fig. 5: 



will serve the purpose. The cans may be hung up side 
by side on the wall, if mounted upon pieces of board 

provided with screw-eyes or 
holes (Figs. 50 and 51). To 
mount the cans, punch four 
holes through each and wire 
them to pieces of board as 
shown in Fig. 51. Cigar 
boxes may be fastened upon 
wooden brackets as shown 

Figs. 50 and 51. — Can Receptacles • pjg- co 
for Nails, Brads, and Screws. 

After you have fitted up 
your workshop with a bench, shelving, racks, and recep- 
tacles, and made a chest or cabinet for your tools, there 
are still a number of pieces of equipment to construct 
before you will be ready to 
open up your shop for busi- 
ness. 

Figure 53 shows 

A Horse which is very much 
handier than the simpler forms 

of carpenters' horses, in so far yig. 52. — Cigar-box Receptacles 
as the board top gives a for Screws, Bolts, or Miscellane- 
, , r . ^ 1 ous Hardware. 

broader surface to lay work 

upon and the shelf underneath makes a convenient place 
to lay saws and other tools. This horse is very com- 
monly used by carpenters. Details for its construction 
are shown in Figs. 54, 55, and 56. Cut the body A 3 




TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT 37 




feet 10 inches long out of a piece of 2-by-4, and cut the 

four legs B to the dimensions shown in Fig. 55 out of 

i-inch stuff, with one edge 

tapered J inch. Trim off 

the upper ends of the legs 

as shown in Fig. 56, so 

when the legs are nailed 

to the body the lower 

ends will be 16 inches 

apart. Nail the legs in 

place about 5 inches from Fig. 53. — Horse. 

the ends of the body, then cut the end rails (C, Fig. 54) 

and the side rails D 3 inches wide and of the required 

length and nail them to the legs 9 inches below the body. 

Cut the tray bottom boards 
to fit between the rails (^, 
Fig. 54) and fasten them 
with nails driven through 
the rails into their edges. 
Cut the top board F 4 
feet long out of i-inch 
stuff and screw it to the 
body, countersinking the 
screw-heads as a protec- 
tion to your edge tools. 
When the horse has been nailed together, you will 

probably find that it does not stand evenly — at any rate, 

the legs will not be cut to the right angle on the bottom 




Fig. 55. 
Figs. 54-56. — Details of Horse. 



38 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

and will not rest squarely upon the floor. To allow for 
trimming, an extra inch was added to the length of the 
legs, in the leg pattern (Fig. 55). Set the horse in the 
place it will occupy in your shop, so in case the floor is 
out of level the horse may be made to stand evenly in that 
place, locate the short leg, and put a chip under it so as 
to level up the top ; then take a block of wood about i 
inch thick, slide it around the bottom of each leg, and 
mark a line across each face even with the top of the 
block. Saw the legs off on these lines ; and if the work 
has been done carefully, the horse will stand perfectly 
even. If you find that the horse is too high after com- 
pleting it, it will be an easy enough matter to trim off 
the legs as much as is necessary to make it suit your 
height. 

You should have two horses in your shop across which 
to lay long pieces of work for marking and sawing. Of 
course a couple of packing boxes may be used until you 
have plenty of time to make these. You will also find 
that a chair will serve the purpose of 

A Saw-bench for small work about as well as a horse 
would. Such usage will be rather hard on the chair, 
however, unless the seat is protected in some way, so if 
you want 

A Chair Saw-bench, prepare a wooden cover that can be 
placed over the seat as shown in Fig. 57. Make this 
cover 20 inches long and 16 inches wide; fasten the 
boards together at the ends with battens of just the 



TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT 39 





Fig. 57. 

A Chair 

Saw-bench. 



Fig. 58. 

Cover to protect 

Chair, 



thickness of the chair seat and fitted to the curve or 
slant of the seat {A and B, Fig. 58), and screw a wooden 
button to each batten. Place several thicknesses of cloth 
over the chair seat, then set the cover over it and turn 
the buttons so as to hold it in 
place. You may protect the 
back by slipping a potato sack 
over it. 

It is necessary to have a 
miter-box to guide your saw 
in making miters. The ad- 
justable iron boxes now man- 
ufactured are the most satisfactory kind, but they are 
rather expensive to buy and probably will not serve your 
purpose any better than 

A Home-made Miter-box such as the average carpenter 
makes for his own use (Fig. 59). This box may be 

made of pine. Cut the bot- 
tom piece 4 inches wide 
and 14 inches long out of 
a ij-inch board, and the 
sides 5 inches wide and 14 

Fig. 59. -Home-made Miter-box. j^^j^^^ j^^^ ^^^ ^^ j_j^^j^ 

stuff, and nail the sides to the edges of the bottom. 
Then take the box to a carpenter and ask him to make 
two miter cuts and one (^o-degree cut in the sides. The 
method of laying out and cutting the miters is described 
in " The Boy Craftsman " ; but, unless you have had 




40 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 




Fig. 6o. — Bench-hook. 



enough practice in sawing so you can saw very accurately, 
you had better have a carpenter cut these for you. 

A Bench-hook (Fig. 60) is used for a number of opera- 
tions. For paring with your chisel and chopping with 

your hatchet it furnishes 
protection to the bench 
top, which would other- 
wise be cut up badly in a 
short time ; it is handy to 
lay sticks and other small 
pieces on for sawing with 
the back-saw, and by mak- 
ing a right-angle kerf (slot 
made by a saw) and a 
right- and a left-hand mitered kerf in the stop strip it may 
be used for sawing small work accurately. Make the 
bench-hook out of a piece of board about 1 2 inches square, 
and nail the hook cleat to' the under side of one edge 
and the mitered stop to the opposite edge as shown. The 
kerfs in the stop strip may be laid out with a mitered 
handle try-square (Fig. 67, page 52), but it will be 
easier to cut them in a miter-box. 

The operation of truing the edge of a board is known 
as jointing or shooting, and to hold the work and guide 
the plane while shooting short, narrow pieces of work, 

A Shooting-board is generally used. Figures 61 and 62 
show the construction of one of these. Cut the pieces 
out of I -inch stuff, A ii\ inches wide by 24 inches long, 



I 




TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT 41 

B 7^ inches wide by 24 inches long, C 2 inches wide by 
7^ inches long, and D 2 inches wide by 24 inches long. 
It is necessary to have the faces and edges straight and 
true in order to make 
it possible to true up 
other pieces of work 
by means of a shoot- 
ing-board. Bevel 
off the lower right- 
hand edge of B (Fig. 
62), then nail or screw 
it to board A with 
the left-hand edges 
flush. Nail strip 
C to ^ so that its end is exactly at right angles with 
the right-hand edge of board B. Nail strip D to the 
left-hand edge of board A. 

In using the shooting-board, it is placed upon the 
bench with strip D close against the bench apron and 
the end of board A shoved against the bench-stop, then 
the board to be jointed is placed upon board B with one 
end against C, which forms a stop, and the edge to be 
planed projecting over the right-hand edge of board B\ 
with the plane turned on its side upon board A it is then 
worked back and forth until the edge has been planed 
off accurately. The bevel on the edge of B forms a 
groove which keeps small shavings from getting in the 
way of the plane and throwing it out of line. 



Fig. 61. 
Figs. 61-62. — Shooting-board. 




Many of you boys, no doubt, are studying manual 
training and learning the use of wood-working tools, how 
to select material, and how to lay out and carry to com- 
pletion a piece of work. But the majority of schools do 
not provide these advantages, and many that do, furnish 
the course of instruction only to boys of the higher 
grades, so that the greater number of my readers are 
boys who must depend largely upon handicraft books and 
their own power of observation for a knowledge of how 
to do things. 

There are all sorts of things which the average boy 
can construct without having had instruction in the 
making of wood joints, and in putting together an article 
and finishing it, but for any particular work, such as the 
making of furniture and things which you wish to sell 
or give away, you must understand how to proceed in 
order that the work may not only be substantially con- 
structed, but be pleasing to the eye as well. The sug- 
gestions and pointers presented in this chapter are in- 
tended to help you to attain these results, and those of 

42 



ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRALNING 43 

you who are studying manual training will do well to 
read over the instructions, as you will likely find some- 
thing new among them which will aid you in carrying 
out the work described in succeeding chapters. 

Every boy should, first of all, know something about 
the 

Selection of Working Material. The softer woods are 
better for the beginner to use, as they are easier to work. 
Of these, pine, cypress, spruce, hemlock, redwood, white- 
wood, and basswood are probably best adapted to amateur 
work. The selection depends largely upon the locality, 
certain varieties being easier to procure in one place 
than another. Clear white pine is the choicest of the 
soft woods for cabinet making and all other nice work, 
but is becoming so scarce that it is now almost impossi- 
ble to get in many parts of the country. Cypress is an- 
other very easily worked wood ; the California redwood 
is also good, and can be had in very wide boards ; and 
whitewood (from the tulip tree) and basswood (from 
the linden tree) furnish excellent working material. 
The latter two woods are close-grained, take stain ex- 
ceedingly well, can be procured in boards of considerable 
width, and are especially good material for all sorts of 
amateur work, one feature in their favor being the fact 
that they are not easily split in nailing. The only ob- 
jectionable point is their great tendency to warp, but 
warping may be prevented by cleating together wide 
pieces used in large work. 



44 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

Of the hard woods, oak is best suited to the work of 
the amateur craftsman. It is cheap, easily worked, and 
easier to finish than the more expensive woods, which 
require very exact workmanship, the slightest defect 
showing through the highly polished or satin-finish sur- 
faces customarily put upon them. Oak takes stain 
readily and looks best when treated in this way and then 
waxed — one of the finishes easiest for a boy to put 
on successfully. Ash, maple, cherry, birch, mahogany, 
and walnut are other hard woods which you will likely 
have occasion to use later on when you have had more 
experience in your work. 

Many of you boys have seen how logs are cut up into 
boards, planks, and heavier pieces, but it will be well for 
all of you to know something about the 

Structure of Wood and how this must be taken into 
consideration in converting the log into lumber, as it 
will enable you to select and handle your material more 
intelligently. Figure 63 shows a cross-section of a log. 
In the center, or generally a little to one side of the 
center, is a circular core known as the pith, then sur- 
rounding this is a series of circles known as annual rings, 
and around the outside is the bark. The wood between 
each two rings represents the amount of one year's 
growth, and the annual rings are produced as a result of 
the suspension of growth during autumn and winter. By 
counting the rings it is very easy to determine the age 
of a tree. The inner portion of the tree is known as the 



ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 



45 




Fig. 63. 
Tree Structure. 



Fig. 64. 
Cracks in Logs. 



heart-wood and supplies the more solid and desirable 
material (unless the tree has started to decay, when the 
first signs are generally to be found here), while the outer 
wood is known as the sap-wood, as it contains the 
greater portion of the tree's 
juices. In the cross-sections 
of logs (Figs. 63 and 64) you 
will notice a series of lines 
radiating from the pith, some 
extending as far as the bark 
and others running but part 

way. These, called the medullary rays, are a peculiar 
formation in a tree and produce what is known as silver- 
gram upon the surface of all quarter-sawed wood. The 
tree structure must be taken into consideration in 

Cutting up the Log, and different methods of sawing 
are employed according to the purpose for which the 

wood is to be used. The 
common method of plain 
sawing is shown in Fig. 65. 
With this the only waste 
produced is in the sawdust 
and bark removed. But you 
will notice, by looking at the 
illustration, that with the exception of one board taken 
through the center of the pith, the annual rings cross 
the boards obliquely; this is the cause of warping. 
When wood drys out (seasons), the greatest amount of 





Fig. 65. 
Plain-sawed. 



Fig. 66. 
Quarter-sawed. 



46 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

shrinkage occurs along the line of the annual rings, there- 
fore the longer the arc of the ring crossing the cross-sec- 
tion of a board, the greater the shrinkage along that arc 
will be, and plain-sawed stuff, having arcs of different 
lengths crossing it, will shrink unequally and warp as 
the result. Warping is more noticeable, of course, in 
wide than in narrow boards and must be taken care of 
by dealing or some other method of holding the wood in 
position. 

The board cut from the center of the log in plain 
sawing is the only one which will show the silver- 
grain to a marked degree. To get this effect upon 
every board 

Quarter Sawing is necessary (Fig. 66). The log is first 
sawed into quarters, then each quarter is sawed up radially 
so the surface of each board will be parallel with the 
medullary rays. Strictly speaking, the quarter marked 
A shows the only proper method of quarter sawing, as it 
is the only one in which each board is parallel with the 
rays, but methods B, C, and Z? are also used, as they save 
considerable waste of material, and boards so cut are 
sorted into different grades. The big waste, and the 
fact that more time is required in the cutting, make 
quarter-sawed stock much more expensive than plain- 
sawed stuff. The irregular pieces cut from between the 
boards are usually utilized for moldings and other small 
pieces, and this reduces the amount of waste somewhat. 
Besides the beautiful markings, quarter-sawed boards 



ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 47 

have the advantage of uniform shrinkage and are not 
likely to warp. 

Knots, cup-shakes, heart-shakes, and checks are defects 
occurring in logs and produce a big waste in the manufac- 
ture of lumber. The portions containing these are either 
cut away or, where not very marked, the boards cut from 
them are sorted into the poorer grades of lumber. First 
and second grades generally admit boards with small, 
sound 

Knots, — pin knots and standard knots, — but if you go 
to a lumber yard or mill for your material, you will prob- 
ably be allowed to pick out pieces from the pile which are 
clear or which have knots in places where they can easily 
be cut out without spoiling the boards for your purpose. 
Cracks, however, such as 

Cup-shakes and Heart-shakes, the former being cracks 
between the rings and the latter cracks along the medul- 
lary rays (Fig. 64), should not appear upon any boards 
but those of the poorest grade of lumber, so do not let a 
dealer pass them off on you for first-grade stuff. Boards 
are likely to split at the ends through drying out unevenly, 
and these rifts are known as 

Checks. Very long checks extending entirely through 
a board are not admitted in first grades, but checkiitg is 
likely to occur even after the piece has seasonediox a long 
time and is a common fault with large timbers where the 
outside dries out long before the center. 

After the boards have been cut, it is necessary that the 



48 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

sap be evaporated before they are fit to use. The two 
methods employed are known as 

Seasoning, which consists in piling up the boards in 
large piles in the open, with narrow strips of wood placed 
between each layer to allow a free circulation of air 
throughout the pile, and leaving them in this position 
for from two to four years, and 

Kiln Drying, the best method of which consists in piling 
up the lumber in a similar manner in large chambers or 
kilns and passing condensed steam through and around the 
boards for a period of two weeks, to open up the pores and 
cause the water to run out, and then shutting off the steam 
and passing a forced circulation of heated air through them 
for another two weeks. The latter method is employed 
on lumber used for fine furniture ; but as a rule material 
for ordinary purposes remains in the kilns not over forty- 
eight hours, and often a much shorter time than this. The 
slower the process of drying, the better it is for the wood, 
for the reason that rapid drying destroys much of the 
elasticity and toughness. On this account and for the 
fact that kiln-dried stock is more sensitive to atmospheric 
changes, weather-seasoned lumber is much to be preferred. 

Lumber is spoken of as 

Stock or Stuff. As produced from a log, it is known as 

Undressed Stuff, and when the roughness left by the 
saw has been removed by the planer, it is called 

Dressed Stuff (specified D upon material bills). If 
only one side is smoothed, it is said to be surfaced-oite- 



ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 49 

side (marked S-i-S) ; if two sides and one edge, surfaced- 
two-sides-and-one-edge (marked S-2-S'&-i-E\ etc. 

Tongued-a7id-grooved boards (Fig. 75) are known as 
Matched Stuff (specified M), and when they are also 
beaded, they are said to be 

Matched-and-Beaded (specified M-&-B). The beaded 
material is called ceiling, and is used for porch ceilings, 
backs of pantry cases, wainscotings, etc. 

Lumber up to 2 inches thick (undressed) is known as 
Boards, when 2 inches or more in thickness as 
Planks or Dimension Stuff, and when four inches or 
more, it is called 
Timber 

Stock Sizes of Lumber. Boards are reduced \ inch in 
thickness and \ inch in width from the original dimen- 
sions in the process of dressing, which must be taken into 
consideration in laying out work. In some localities 
this is allowed for in cutting up the log, but as a rule it 
is not. Thus, a board i inch thick and 12 inches wide, 
in the rough, would be \ inch thick and iij inches 
wide when dressed, but as a matter of fact all i-inch 
stock is now being sawed about -^ inch under i inch, 
and as a result is only J| inch thick when dressed. 
Stock 2 inches or more in thickness is reduced \ inch in 
dressing. Thus, a 2-inch by 4-inch piece is only i|- 
inches thick and 3f inches wide when dressed. 

To avoid the use of fractions as much as possible, stock 
is generally known by its undressed dimensions, as follows: 



50 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



I -by- 1 2-inch stuff, 2-by-4-inch stuff (or simply 2-by-4's), 
I -inch stock (generally spoken of as -J-inch stock, which 
originally was the dressed thickness), etc. The regular 
thicknesses of dressed lumber are : f inch (^-inch stock), 
f inch (f-inch stock), }f inch (i-inch stock), ij inches 
(ij-inch stock), if inches (ij-inch stock), if inches (2-inch 
stock), etc., the widths are if inches (2-inch), 3f inches 
(4-inch), 5f inches (6-inch), 7f inches (8-inch), etc., each 
succeeding width increasing 2 inches, and the standard 
lengths run from 10 feet to 20 feet in even numbers. 

In Purchasing Material, if there is not a mill or lum- 
ber yard near by where you can go and place your order 
direct, you can probably arrange with a friendly car- 
penter to buy your stock for you when he is purchasing 
some for himself. Make out 

A Mill List with the number of pieces of each size desired, 
the kind of wood, the dimensions (place the thickness first, 
then the width, and last the length) and the directions for 
dressing, matchmg, beading, etc., in the following order: — 



Pieces 


Material 


Dimensions 


Remarks 


12 


Red Oak 


i"x 3"Xi2'o" 


M-&-B Ceiling 


4 


)> 5J 


i"x 10" X 12' 0" 


S-2-S 


4 


JJ 5J 


li" X 12" X 10' 0" 


S-2-S-&-1-E 


4 


Whitewood 


i"x 12" X 16' 0" 


S-2-S 


10 


Cypress 


l"X 10" X 12' 0" 


S-2-S 


2 


Yellow Pine 


2" X 4" X 16' 0" 


S-4-S 


I 


J» 5J 


2"X 10" X 18' 0" 


S-4-S 



ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 51 

Lumber is sold by the thousand feet (per M), so after 
finding the existing retail price it is an easy matter 

To Estimate the Cost of your material. A piece of 
board i inch thick, 12 inches wide, and 12 inches long is 
figured as a board foot. Upon this basis a piece i inch by 
4 inches by 12 feet would contain 4 board feet, and a 
piece 2 inches by 4 inches by 12 feet would contain 8 
board feet. Any thickness under i inch is figured the 
same as i-inch stuff. The retail price ordinarily covers 
dressing, but matching, grooving, rabbeting, beading, and 
other machine work is extra. 

Before attempting any shop cabinet making, a boy 
should spend some time in getting accustomed to hand- 
ling his tools properly, so as to be able to lay out work 
accurately, plane up a surface true and smooth, and saw 
to a line. " The Proper Handling of Tools " is described 
in " The Boy Craftsman," and it is not my intention to 
repeat these instructions here, only so far as it is nec- 
essary to show the right way to lay out a piece of work, 
to cut and join its various parts, and to finish its surface. 

Laying Out Work. Unless you lay out a piece of work 
accurately, you cannot expect to turn out a satisfactory 
job, because nothing will fit, and if you are careless at the 
start, you will likely be careless in the other operations as 
well. To guard against mistakes, it is always best to 
check up measurements as you go along. Use a 2-foot 
rule or a carpenter's square with which to lay off meas- 
urements, and a carpenter's square or try-square for i"^r^<5- 



52 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 




Fig. 67. — Scribing with Knife and Try- 
square. 



ing lines between points and carrying them around the 
four sides of a piece of work. (See Fig. 67 ; also Plan- 
ing Exercise on page 54.) A sharp lead-pencil may 

be used for scribing, 
but the work can be 
done more accurately 
with a jack-knife; how- 
ever, a knife line can 
be made only upon sur- 
faces where it will be 
removed by cutting or 
concealed by another 
piece of wood. 

When you wish to 
scribe a line parallel to an edge of a piece of work, the 
operation is known as 

Gauging. Figures 68 and 76 show how to gauge with a 
marking-gauge. Suppose you wish to cut a piece 3 inches 
wide from a 4-inch 
board. You must first 
test one edge and true 
it up, if necessary, to 
make it straight for a 
working edge (see Plan- 
ing Exercise), then 
place the head of the 
srausje ap;ainst this edo^e ^ ^^ ^ . . , ^^ , . 

^ ^ ^ ^ Fig. 68. — Gauging with a Marking-gauge 

of the board, and with (a Mortise-gauge). 




ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 



53 



the spur in the shaft pressed into the surface of the 
wood (Fig. 68), scratch a line along the board for a 
distance equal to the length of the piece to be removed; 
also scribe the line upon the opposite face and you will 
then have a guide-line upon both faces to saw and plane 
to, which is exactly parallel to and at a distance of 
3 inches from the working edge. The gauge is also used 
for laying out various forms of wood joints. The double- 
spur upon the shaft of the mortise-gauge is provided for 
laying out the two sides 
of a mortise or groove in 
one operation (Fig. 76), the 
outer spur being fixed and 
the inner one made adjust- 
able by means of a thumb- 
screw in the end of the shaft. 
This form of gauge saves 
lots of time, especially when 
you have a number of mor- 
tises or grooves of one size 
to lay out. 

Figure 69 shows how 
gauging may be done with 
a pencil and carpenter's square. Hold the body of the 
square against the edge of the work, with the tongue ex- 
tended across the face upon which the line is to be scribed 
and the pencil held against the edge at the desired point, 
and then, with the fingers braced as shown to hold the pen- 




FiG. 69. — Gauging with Pencil and 
Carpenter's Square. 



54 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



cll steady, move the square toward you with your left hand. 

The same operation may be performed with a try-square 

and pencil. You will require some practice before you 

will be able to gauge successfully in this manner, but it is 

easy when you get 
i ' 



Fig. 70. 



& 



AAlL 



-^>^>^>^ 



TJTTTpi 



Fig. 71. 




1 



^ 



u 



the knack of doing 
it. A rule and pen- 
cil may also be used 
for gauging, as is 
shown in " The Boy 
Craftsman."^ While 
these methods will 
answer the purpose 
for rough work, a 
marking-gauge is to 
be preferred for great 
accuracy. 

For a Planing Ex- 
ercise take a piece 
of board about 12 
inches long. First, 
test one side, holding the board on a level with your 
eyes and sighting across it while you move the edge 
of the try-square along the entire length (Fig. 70). 
The square will strike the high places and you will 
be able to distinguish them as the light will show 
beneath the edge of the square, in the hollows. Locate 

1 Page 43. 



Fig. 72. 



Fig. 70. — Testing with a Try-square. 
Fig. 71. — Testing with a Carpenter's Square. 
Fig. 72. — Testing an Edge from the Working 
Face. 



ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 55 

the high portions as you pass over them, by drawing 
a Hne around them as shown in Fig. 70, so you will 
know where the places are which require the most plan- 
ing. Also test the board lengthwise with the carpenter's 
square (Fig. 71). 

A good Vv^ay to test a board for windmg (twisting in 
the length) is by means of 

Winding-sticks (Fig. ']'^. Get two pieces of square 
molding of exactly the same size for the sticks. To make 
the test, place both sticks across the board, one at the 
farther end and the .^^"^ 

other at the near 
end, and hold the 
board level and at 
the proper height to 
make the tops of 

the sticks upon a \^(^ Jf{^ 

level with your eyes ; 

sio-ht across the Fig. 73. — Testing with Winding-sticks. 

sticks, and if their tops appear to be exactly on a line, you 
may know that there is no wind to the board ; if one end 
of one stick appears above the corresponding end of the 
other stick, you can easily determine where and how much 
the wind is. 

After determining where planing is necessary, place 
the board in your bench-vise and plane up the face, test- 
ing it again and again until you find it to be perfectly 
true. This first trued surface is called the working face 




56 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

and should be marked with a cross (Fig. 67). With the 
handle of the try-square held firmly against this working 
face and the blade extending across an edge (Fig. 72), 
move it along the surface, locate the high places, and 
plane it up and test it as you did the working face. Mark 
this edge, which now becomes the working edge^ with two 
short parallel lines (Fig. 68). Next, set the marking- 
gauge to any thickness desired for the board and, with 
the head of the gauge pressed firmly against the working 
face, gauge a line along each edge. Plane up the second 
face to the gauge lines, test and true up. The ends of 
the board should be trimmed off next. With the handle 
of the try-square pressed firmly against the working face, 
first scribe a line across the working edge, then, with the 
handle of the square against the working edge, continue 
this line across the working face and the opposite face. 
From the working face carry the line across the unfinished 
edge. Then, from the scribed line, lay off the length to 
which you wish to cut the piece and scribe another line 
around the four sides at that distance. Saw off the ends 
of the board about \ inch outside of the lines, to allow 
for planing them up smooth. In planing across end 
grain, the farther edge will split down unless protected. 
This difficulty may be overcome by placing another piece 
of wood in front of it when you clamp it in the vise, but 
it is better to chamfer the unfinished edge (see Fig. 
90), which is the only reason for not finishing this 
before the ends. After planing off both ends square, set 



ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 57 

the gauge to the width you wish to make the board and 
gauge a Hne along the faces and across the ends, shding 
the head of the gauge along the working edge (Fig. 68) ; 
then saw off the edge to within about |- inch of the lines 
with a rip-saw and finish the edge with the plane. 

For a Sawing Exercise, scribe a series of lines around a 
trued-up block of wood with your try-square, then place 
the block in your vise and see how well you can keep to 
the line while sawing through the block. Stick to this 
exercise until you can saw the block through exactly on 
the line, without running off at any point. Guide the 
saw with your left thumb until it has cut into the wood 
a little way, hold the saw exactly at right angles to the 
line, and use long, steady strokes. 

No better exercises in laying out work, planing, and 
sawing can be found than the makingof the 

Joints and Splices used for joining together pieces of 
wood, and it is important to practice upon such joinings 
before attempting to use them upon a nice piece of work, 
in order that you may not run the risk of spoiling material. 
Any odd-sized pieces of wood which you have on hand 
may be used for these exercises as the proportions of the 
joints may be worked out to suit the size of the piece. 
The most important joints and splices are shown in 
Figs. 74 and 75 (pages 58 and 59). By a joint is 
meant any kind of a connection between two pieces placed 
at an angle to one another, while a splice is a connection 
between two pieces placed in a straight line. 




/A^Wv^^ 



Fig. 74. — Common Forms of Joints and Splices. 
5^ 




DOWELtJOINJS -^ 

Fig. 75. — Common Forms of Joints and Splices. 
59 



6o HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

You are familiar, of course, with the 

Common-joint and the Butt-joint, though perhaps you 
do not know them by name, and no doubt you have used 
the Common-splice and the Fished-splice — a better form 
of splice — in joining together pieces which have been too 
short in putting up the frameworks for your club-house, 
tree huts, and other work. You will possibly have to use 
one of these in constructing the partition for a basement 
workshop, or an attic room such as is described in 
Chapter VIII. The above joints and splices are shown 
clearly in the illustrations and require no explanation. 

In the preparation of 

A Halved-joint, or Half-lap joint, as it is sometimes 
called, a piece equal to the width and one half of the 
thickness is cut away from each member so the pieces 
will fit together with their surfaces even or flush. The 
cutting may be done at the ends of the pieces as at A 
and B, or away from the end of one piece as at C, or in 
the center of both pieces as shown in Fig. 126 (page 113). 
Use a square and marking-gauge for laying out the lines 
for the halving. The wood should be removed with a 
fine saw if the ends of the pieces are halved, or with 
a saw and chisel if the lap is made at the center of the 
pieces. The end halved-joint must be fastened together 
with nails or screws, but i\\Q center halved joint vci2iy some- 
times be fastened with glue alone. 

By joining two pieces lengthwise with a halved-joint 
A Halved-splice is obtained (Fig. 74). 



ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 



6i 



The Mortise-and-Tenon Joint is one of the most important 
of cabinet-makers' joints, and you will have occasion to 
employ it in joining together work when it is necessary 
to make strong connections. Several forms of this joint 
are shown in Fig. 74, and the method of laying out the 
mortise and the teiioii 
is shown in Figs. 76 
and 'J'], Both mem- 
bers of the joint should 
first be finished up to 
the proper size, except 
that additional length 
must be left on the 
tenon piece to allow 
for the cutting of the 
tenon, and the mortise Lay 

piece should also be a ^^th the Mortise-gauge 

little longer if the cutting is to be done near the end, 
to prevent the end from splitting. Ordinarily the mor- 
tise should not be more than one third of the width of the 
piece it is cut through, and the tenon not less then one 
third of the width of the piece it is cut on, in order that 
neither piece will be weakened by the cutting. 

I shall explain, first, the making of the mortise- 
and-tenon joint, in which the mortise is cut entirely 
through the piece. Lay off the length of the mortise 
equal to the width of the tenon piece and scribe lines 
around the four sides of the block to determine the ends 




Fig. -j^. 
ansf out a Mortise 



Fig. ^-j. 
Tenon Piece laid 
out ready to be Cut. 



62 



HANDICRx\FT FOR HANDY BOYS 



(Fig. 76), then set your mortise-gauge to the width of the 
mortise and scribe the two side hues (Fig. 76) on both 
faces of the piece. The width of the mortise should be 

made the exact width 
of one of your chisels, 
if possible, so that the 
cutting of the entire 
width may be done in 
one operation (Figs. 
"jS and 79) ; this will 
leave little or no trim- 
ming to do on the 
sides. 

To cut the mor- 
tise, place the piece of 
work upon the bench 
with one end toward 
you, then with the 
chisel held as shown 
in Fig. jS, with the 
beveled side facing 
you, start at the 
middle of the space 
marked out and drive 
the chisel into the wood, then withdraw the chisel, set 
its edge about | inch back of this first cut and drive it 
into the wood again; continue cutting in this manner, 
now and then prying out the pieces between the cuts 




Fig. 78. — Cutting a 

Mortise. 

Fig. 79. — Trimming 

up the Ends. 



Fig. 78. 



ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 6s 

until the farther guide-Hne has been reached, then reverse 
the position of the piece of work and, starting at the center 
again, cut from there back to the other end of the 
space. The mortise should be cut through one half the 
thickness of the piece, then the piece should be turned 
over and the remaining one half cut through from that face. 
The ends of the mortise must then be trimmed up, and for 
this part of the work the flat side of the chisel must be held 
toward the line as in Fig. 79. This trimming, ox paring, 
should be done without the use of a mallet. A mortise is 
very often made by boring a number of holes and then 
trimming up to the guide-line with a chisel, in the same 
manner as is described for cutting large, round holes on 
page 142 (see Fig. 156). 

Lay off the length of the tenon with enough allowance 
for trimming the end later, then scribe a line around the 
four sides of the piece to locate the shoulder of the tenon 
(Fig. ^^). Set the spurs of the mortise-gauge a trifle 
farther apart than the width of the mortise, to allow 
for the thickness of the saw in cutting, and scribe the 
side lines of the tenon from the shoulder line to the end, 
across the end, and down the other side to the shoulder 
line. With a back-saw cut the shoulders along the 
shoulder line, being very careful to saw exactly on the line, 
then place the piece in the bench-vise as shown in Fig. 80 
and cut down the sides of the tenon to the shoulder. The 
tenon should fit fairly tight in the mortise, but not so tight 
that it will not drive easily when coated with glue. If a 



64 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



little too large for the mortise,^ trim the tenon with a 
chisel. Short tenons may be cut entirely with the chisel. 
After fitting the pieces together, trim off the end of the 
tenon flush with the face of the mortise. One of the 

tenon pieces shown 
in the illustration 
has a shoulder cut 
upon all four sides, 
which is commonly 
done to conceal the 
edges of the mor- 
tise, while one of the 
mortises is shown 
cut but part way 
through the piece 
(a blhid mortise) ; 
the tenon for the 

Cutting the Sides of a Tenon. j^^^^^ mortisC mUSt 

be made \ inch shorter than the depth of the mortise to 
allow plenty of clearance for the end. The ope7t mortise- 
and- tenon joint illustrated is a common form and simpler 
to make than the closed joint, as the mortise may be cut 
with a saw and chisel. 

In making the furniture detailed in Chapter VI you 
will use the full-depth mortise only on pieces through 
which the tenon projects, and iox pins, as you will see by 
looking at the working-drawings, the blind mortise being 
made in all other cases. 




Fig. 8o. 



ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 65 

Tenons may be fastened in place with glue^ nails, 
screws, pins, or wedges. For gluing see page 72, for 
nailing see page 74, and for screwing see page 72. 
The form of 

Pins which you will use most are those described for 
the construction of the furniture in Chapter VI. In Fig. 
74 you will see another common way of pinning together 
the members of a mortise-and-tenon joint. First of all, a 
small hole is bored through the sides of the mortise, then 
the tenon is slipped into place and the position of the 
hole marked upon it, and then the hole is bored through 
the tenon about j^ inch nearer to the shoulder than 
where located. By changing the position of the hole you 
will see that the pin will draw the shoulder on the tenon 
piece tight against the mortise piece, when driven into 
place. For 

Wedging the tenon (Fig. 74), one or more kerfs are 
sawed in the end of the tenon, and after the tenon has 
been slipped through the mortise, wood wedges are coated 
with glue and driven into the kerfs, thus spreading the 
end of the tenon in the same way in which the handle 
of a hammer is fastened in the head. 

A Rabbet is a square-corner groove cut in the edge of 
a board (Fig. 75), and 

A Rabbet-joint may be made by fitting a square-edge 
piece into a rabbeted piece, by fitting together two pieces 
wdth rabbeted edges, and by fitting a rabbeted piece into 
2, grooved }^\^Q^. A rabbet may be cut with a chisel after 



66 PIANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

the manner described for cutting a mortise (Fig. "jS), or 
if it extends along the full length of a short piece, it may 
be cut with a saw; but if you have much rabbeting to do, 
it will be well to have a rabbet-plane (Fig. 22) for the 
purpose, or have your work done at a mill. 

Grooves may be cut with a chisel in the same way that 
mortises are cut, but this work is also simplified by using 
a dado-plane (Fig. 23). 

The similarity between a rabbet-joint and 

A Housed-joint often causes a confusion of the two. 
But there is no rabbeting in the housed-joint, the entire 
edge of one piece being fitted, or housed, into a groove 
cut in the other; so if you will remember this, you will 
have no trouble in distinguishing one from the other. 

The Tongue-and-Groove Joint is one which you will 
probably never have occasion to make, and if you ever 
do, it will be best to take your work to a mill and have 
it done by machines especially made for the purpose. 
You will, however, have need of tongued-and-grooved 
boards for work requiring tight joints, and these, of 
course, are stock stuff. 

The Mitered- joint will be used a great deal in making 
picture-frames and other cabinet work. It is always a 
45-degree cut and should be made in a miter-box (Fig. 
59, page 39) to insure accuracy. The illustrations show 

A Mitered-splice, or beveled-lap splice, used a good deal 
in splicing long stretches of interior woodwork. 

The Do vet ail- joint is a joint you will never need to 



ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 



67 



apply to your work, in all probability, but a great degree 
of accuracy is required in making it to secure a neat job, 
and for this reason it furnishes a splendid exercise for a 
beginner. The dovetail in modified forms is used in the 
manufacture of small boxes, and in the joining of the 
front and sides of drawers, in which case it is all done by 
a machine. 

Figures 81 to 84 show the necessary steps for dovetail- 
ing the ends of two pieces by hand. First, plane up the 
pieces true and to the 
same width and thick- 
ness, then taking the 
piece upon which the 
dovetail mortises are 
to be cut (Fig. 81), 
scribe the line AB 
around the two faces 
and edges at a dis- 
tance from the end equal to the exact thickness of the 
tenon piece. Lay off spaces of | inch and | inch, alter- 
nately, upon this line and scribe lines parallel to the 
edges of the piece from these points to the end, around 
the end. and back to line AB on the other face. Next, 
lay off the oblique side lines of the mortises on both 
faces, then place the piece in the bench-vise, end up, 
and saw down along these lines as far as line AB, using 
a fine saw for the purpose, after which cut out the 
wood between, marked M, with a chisel (Fig. 82). Place 




Fig. 81. Fig. 82. Fig. 84. Fig. 83. 
Figs. 81-84. — Details of the Dovetail-joint. 



68 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

the finished mortise piece upon the end of the tenon 
piece and mark off the tenons, then, to allow for cutting, 
move the lines over about -^q inch each side of the 
tenons and, after this has been done, scribe their ends 
across to line AB, which should be scribed around 
this piece at a distance from the end equal to the thick- 
ness of the mortise piece (Fig. 83). The last step con- 
sists in sawing down along the side lines of the tenons 
and cutting out the wood between, marked T (Fig. 84). 

A Dovetail Half-lap Joint (Fig. 75) has the advantage 
over an ordinary half-lap joint of so locking the pieces 
that it is impossible to pull it apart, lengthwise of the 
pieces, without breaking the tenon. 

The Dowel-joint (Fig. 75) is a butt-joint, but the members 
are fastened together with wooden pins called dowels. 
The form at the left lacks the strength and neatness of a 
mortise-and-tenon joint, but is often used in cheap work. 
At the right is shown how two or more boards may 
be doweled together to form a wide piece. Dowel sticks 
of all diameters are made for doweling, and you can get 
what you need at any furniture shop, which will be more 
satisfactory than to cut them out yourself. The boring 
of the holes in the proper positions and at right angles 
to the edges, so the pieces will fit together yf^i-/^ andyf^/, 
requires some practice. After you have jointed the 
edges of the pieces (see page 40), set your marking- 
gauge to a measurement equal to one half their thickness, 
and, from the working face of each board, gauge a line 



ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 69 

along the entire length of the edge for a center-line. 
Then place the boards back to back in your bench-vise, 
with the edges even, locate the centers of the holes along 
one center-line and scribe lines from these points across 
to the other center-line. If the boards are perfectly 
straight and the holes are bored carefully, the dowels 
will bring the pieces together exactly right, but in case 
you find they do not fit, it is easy enough to adjust the 
trouble by boring extra pairs of holes at the points where 
the boards are out of line, shifting the centers just as 
much as is necessary. Bevel the edges of the holes with 
a knife or a countersink to form pockets around the 
dowels for glue. To allow plenty of clearance, cut the 
dowels about \ inch shorter than the combined depths of 
the holes, then, after you have found that the boards fit 
together perfectly, coat one half of the length of the 
dowels with glue and stick them into the holes in one 
of the edges. Allow the glue to set, then coat the edge . 
of each board and the other half of each dowel with 
glue, put the pieces together and clamp them tightly. 
Allow the glue to set for about a day before releasing 
the work. 

Battens are strips fastened across two or more pieces 
of wood for the purpose of holding them together {A, 
Fig. 44, page 32), while 

Cleats are strips often used for the same purpose, but 
generally so secured that the pieces will have a chance 
to swell and shrink. It is well enough to nail battens 




70 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

across boards in rough work where it is not important 
whether the joints remain closed or not, but it will not 
do for cabinet work. All woodwork expands and con- 
tracts to a certain extent with changes in the temperature, 
and when battens are securely fastened across glued-up 
work they do not check this movement, nor do the nails 
or screws give enough to take care of it, so the only other 
thing possible takes place — the wood breaks away from 

the fastenings and possibly 
splits from end to end. 
Figure 85 shows how the 
movement may be taken 
care of by attaching cleats 

Fig. 85.— The Proper Way to cleat tO the WOrk. These clcatS 

°^^ ^* are held in place with 

screws, but the screw holes are bored about twice the 
size of the screws, and washers large enough to cover 
the holes are used to support the screw-heads. By 
placing the screws in the exact center of the holes, the 
ends are free to work back and forth with the movement 
of the wood. Cleats are attached to the back of single 
boards and glued-up work in the same way, to prevent 
warping, and sometimes they are grooved on to the ends 
of work. A strip fastened up for a shelf or drawer sup- 
port is also known as a cleat. 

You have now learned the difference between a rabbet, 
groove, bead, mortise, tongue, tenon, dovetail, and miter, 
used in making joints and splices, but there are several 



ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 



71 



other cuts which you should know. When you read 
about the 

Taper on a piece of work, you must understand this to 
refer to a gradual decrease in the thickness of the ma- 
terial, forming a slanted surface or edge (Fig. 86). Then 
there is the 

Bevel, a flat surface cut obliquely to its adjoining sur- 
faces (Fig. ^']\ and a 

Chamfer, three forms of which are shown in Figs. Z%, 
89, and 90. The bevel 2iXid. the chamfer bevel diV^ similar, 
but the latter is usually 
used only on end grain 
for the purpose of pre- 
venting the wood from 
splitting down when 
planing against it. 
Use a marking-gauge 
with which to lay out 
these cuts, and make 
the bevel and the 
chamfer bevel with a 
plane or chisel, the 
stop chamfer with a chisel or spoke-shave, and the cham- 
fer groove with a gouge. 

Woodwork is usually fastened together by means of 
glue^ pins, dowels, wedges, screws, 7iails, or bolts. The 
use of pins, dowels, and wedges has been discussed. The 
best glue for you to use for 




Fig. 86. 

Fig. 86. — Tapered Surface. 

Fig. 87. — Bevel. 

Figs. 88-90. — Three Forms of Chamfers. 



72 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

Gluing up Work is the liquid glue such as you can buy 
in bottles at the drug store, or in one half pint and larger 
cans at a hardware store or paint shop. The can form is 
preferable to the bottle glue as the screw cover seals it 
up tighter; but when the glue thickens, it is easily 
thinned by adding a few drops of vinegar and setting the 
can or bottle for a few minutes in some boiling water. 
Glue must be thin to work well. Use a brush similar to 
that shown in Fig. 91, (page "j^) with which to apply it. 

Before gluing any work, fit every part together and 
make sure that no further trimming of the joints is neces- 
sary ; then wipe the portions to be glued with a cloth to 
remove all sawdust, and apply the glue thoroughly, but not 
too thick, to one part at a time. After the pieces have 
been glued in place, unless the joints are mortise-and- 
tenon joints or other joints which will drive together, the 
work must be held by handscrews (Fig. 40, page 29), 
cabinet-fnaker s clamps (Fig. 41), or home-made clamps 
(Fig. 42), until the glue has thoroughly set, for which 
about a day's time should be allowed. All surplus glue 
which has oozed out of joints should be scraped off and 
the surface sandpapered clean and smooth before any 
finish is applied. 

Screws will hold work together better than nails, in 
places where the latter cannot be clinched, and are to be 
preferred wherever it is possible to use them. The prin- 
cipal forms of wood-screws are the flat-head, the round- 
head ox finis hi7ig- screw, and the square-head or lag-screw. 



ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING 73 

The last form is used for large, rough work, the heads 
being made like bolt-heads so they may be turned with a 
wrench. 

In fastening together two pieces of hard wood, or very 
thin wood, it is necessary to drill holes for the screws be- 
fore driving them, in the first case to make the driving 
easier, and in the second case to prevent the wood from 
splitting. The hole in the upper piece should be made 
a trifle larger than the diameter of the stem of the screw, 
so the screw will slip through it without binding, while 
the hole in the lower piece must of course be enough 
smaller than the screw so it will thread its way into 
the wood and take a good hold. In some cases it is 
necessary to bore the hole in the upper piece a good deal 
larger than the stem, as in the case of c hating (see Cleats, 
page 69). In rough work, or in unexposed places, the 
screw-heads may be driven in flush with the surface, but on 
particular work the heads must be countersunk (driven be- 
low the surface) far enough so the heads may be concealed 
with putty and whatever finish is placed upon the 
wood. Countersinking is done with the countersink 
(Fig. 16, page 16), which bevels off the top edge of the 
screw hole enough to allow the head to drop below the 
surface. Screws will drive into hard wood easier if 
soaped, that is, rubbed over a piece of soap until the 
threads are coated. This also prevents the possibility of 
slender screws twisting off, which they are likely to do 
when forced very hard. 



74 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

Nails are made of wrought-iron, wire (bright and gal- 
vanized), brass, and copper. Of these you will seldom 
use others than the cofnmon wire 7iail for rough work, 
the brad and finishing-nail for work where it is neces- 
sary to drive the heads below the surface of the 
wood, and in so doing to make as small a hole as 
possible, and copper or galvanized wire nails for boat 
building and other outside work where nails are exposed 
to rust. 

Holes should always be started in very thin wood to 
prevent splitting, and it is necessary to do the same in 
hard wood to prevent the nails from bending. The holes 
must be a trifle smaller than the nails and may be made 
with a brad-awl (Fig, i6, page i6), or a small drill (Fig. 
26, page 23). In all work but of the roughest kind, the 
nail-heads should be set low enough so they may be con- 
cealed with putty before the wood is finished. The 
setting is done by means of a nail-set (Fig. 16, page 16). 

Carriage -bolts are used more or less frequently in car- 
pentry with which to pivot one piece to another, or to 
hold several pieces together (generally in large work) 
w^here they are likely to be subjected to a strain that nails 
or screws would not stand. You will use these as king- 
bolts in making your bob-sleds (Chap. XVIII) and your 
wagons (Chap. XXIV), and for securing in place the 
rowlock blocks of your boats (Chaps. XXII and XXIII). 



1 




m^fi 



CHAPTER IV 

WOOD FINISHING 




The finishing of work is equally as important as the 
constructive part because the final appearance of the 
article depends upon the care with which it is done. 
Many a well-made piece of furniture has been ruined by 
poor taste in the selection of finish, or as a result of care- 
lessness or inexperience on the part of the amateur crafts- 
man applying it. With practice, however, any boy can 
master the common forms of finishes, such as paintijig, 
stai7iing, shellacking, waxing, varnishing, and oiling, so 
as to be able to turn out a satisfactory job. 

The kind of finish to be selected for a piece of work 
depends, of course, upon the variety of wood used, the 
nature of the article and the wear to which it will be 
subjected. For your sleds, wagons, boats, club-houses, 
and most of your home-made outdoor equipment, as well 
as much of that made for indoors. 

Paint makes the most durable finish. Ready-mixed 
paints may be obtained in various colors, and this is 
probably the most satisfactory way for a boy to purchase 
paint if he wants a large quantity, but for small work 

75 



76 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

where only a small amount of one color is required it is 
best to buy the lead ground in oil, of the color desired, 
and thin down with turpentine as much as is needed for 
the job ; paint may be bought in this form in i -pound 
cans. The balance of the paint in the can may be kept 
soft by pouring in enough water or linseed-oil to cover 
the surface ; this may be poured off again when you 
wish to use more paint. 

As most of you boys probably know, the combination 
of red and yellow makes orange, yellow and blue makes 
green, blue and red makes purple, green and red makes 
brown, and black and white makes gray. Different shades 
may be obtained by using a larger proportion of one or 
the other color, and black and white will darken or lighten 
the color. By purchasing Venetian red, chrome-yellow, 
Prussian blue, lampblack, and white lead (or zinc-white), 
you will be able to mix up almost every shade of any 
color you wish to use, but you will probably find in burnt 
umber or burnt siejzna just the shade of brown you 
want, and in chrome-greeii or olive-green the right shade 
of green, in which case it will pay you to buy a can of 
each. 

In Mixing Paints, mix up at one time as much as will 
be necessary to complete a job, as it is usually difficult to 
match a color exactly, and a slight change in the shade 
will spoil the appearance of the work you are finishing. 
Try the color upon a piece of wood of the same kind as 
that of the article to be painted, before you go ahead with 



WOOD FINISHING 77 

the painting, and allow it to dry so you can see whether 
or not it is going to look right. 

Brushes. Figure 91 shows a number of brushes which 
will generally answer every purpose of the amateur. 
The two large brushes will be needed for general paint- 
ing, the two sash-tools for small work and for getting into 
corners, and the smallest brush for striping, marking, and 
lettering. Then there is the medium-sized 
varnish brush which must be used only for 
varnishing and shellacking, and the glue 
brush mentioned in Chapter III. When ^^^Tl^^' 
you are through painting, staining, or var- 




2"- FLAT VARNISU-BRUSH 



nishing, wash out your brushes in turpen- ^'J^tTT^ 



'/2--SASH-T00L 



tine, or if you expect to use them in the 
same material within a day or so you may " ^ 

J J J Wo. 4 Marking-brush 

place them in water, which will keep the ^ 

GlUE-BRUSh 

paint from hardening without injuring the LunnznD 



r-KNiFE 



bristles if the brushes are prevented from p^^ 
resting upon the bottom of the receptacle. Brushes and 
To support the brushes, bore holes through ^^"y-^"^^^- 
the handles in the proper places so that when run upon 
a piece of ware and the wire is laid across the rim of 
the can or other receptacle, the ends of the bristles will 
not touch the bottom. 

In Painting wdpe off your brush upon the edge of the 
paint can after dipping it into the paint, so it will not 
drip and spatter over everything. Apply the paint 
thinly and always start at one end of a surface and work 



78 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

toward the other. If there are any resinous knots in the 
wood, first give them a coat of shellac to set the resin so 
there will be no danger of it oozing through the surface 
after it has been painted. The first coat is known as the 
priming coat. After it has dried, the work should be 
gone over carefully and all nail holes, and cracks and 
other defects puttied up (see Puttying, page 84). After 
puttying, sandpaper all rough places (see Sandpapering, 
page 84) before applying a second coat. Two coats 
will be sufficient for all ordinary work, but three coats 
are better for particular work. In three-coat work the 
priming coat may be of white or any light color, as the 
other coats will cover it. 

Staining. For the finishing of furniture and other nice 
work, the modern method of treatment is to stain the 
wood, fill it, and then apply wax or ?i flat varnish (dull 
varnish). Any of the soft woods and a number of the 
hard woods take stain exceedingly well ; oak is now fin- 
ished in this way more generally than any other wood. 
The purpose of staining should be, not to imitate a more 
expensive wood, as is frequently done, but instead to 
bring out the beauty of the grain, if it has a decided grain, 
or at least to give it a beautiful soft tone. 

There are many prepared stains upon the market 
which may be had at a small cost, and any paint store 
handling these will have a color card from which you may 
select the color you wish to use. These stains are made 
in water stains, which are dyes mixed in water, and oil 



WOOD FINISHING 79 

stains, which are pigments mixed in Hnseed-oil or 
spirits. 

Water stains roughen the grain of wood, making it 
necessary to sandpaper the surface after an application 
has dried, but they have an advantage over the oil stains 
in the fact that they bring out much stronger the lines 
of the grain, the oil stains being less transparent and 
concealing, somewhat, the delicate lines and pores. But 
for the fine-grained woods, oil stains are easier to apply, 
and produce better results. 

Oil Stains are easy to mix, and the author advises 
his readers to do some experimenting along this line. 
With the colors mentioned under Paint, any of the 
standard shades of green, gray, and brown may be made, 
and with a stain manufacturer's sample color card to 
work from, you will be able to get pretty close to any 
of the shades shown, although they will look a little 
different when applied to the wood than they do on the 
card, on account of the difference in material. Always 
use the same kind of wood as your work is made of, 
upon which to try out a stain before deciding on it. 
The prepared stains are accompanied with full instruc- 
tions for application. Before using your home-made 
stain, sandpaper the surface of your work thoroughly, 
then apply the stain with a brush or piece of cloth, and 
rub it in vigorously with a piece of soft muslin or cheese- 
cloth. Allow the work to dry for a day, then go over it 
and fill up all nail holes with putty colored with the stain; 



8o HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

clean off the putty crumbs and apply a second coat of 
the stain. The surface may be left without further treat- 
ment, but it is advisable to put a coat of white shellac 
over the oil, and when this has dried to wax it, in order 
to produce a hard finish. Unless you protect the sur- 
face in some such way, it will become spotted, as the oil 
in the stain never entirely dries, and rubs off. 

Some very pleasing effects upon oak have been ob- 
tained by the author by applying the two coats of stain 
in two different colors, instead of mixing them together 
and putting them on as one color. For instance, to 
produce a green finish, a thin coat of Venetian red 
was first rubbed well into the grain, then on top 
of this a coat of chrome-green was applied (chrome- 
green may be made by mixing together chrome-yel- 
low and Prussian blue, if you do not wish to buy a 
can of it). The result was a pretty green with just 
a slight suggestion of a reddish tinge to the grain. 
The Drafting Table and Beitch shown in the photo- 
graph opposite page 86 were finished in this way. By 
applying a thinner coat of the green than of the red, 
and wiping it off a little more, a pretty dark brown hav- 
ing a tinge of red showing through it may be obtained. 
The only difficulty an amateur will experience in put- 
ting on a stain in this manner will be in using the 
same amount of stain upon the w^ork that he has 
used upon his sample, and in rubbing it down to the 
same tone ; but with a little experience he will be 
able to obtain excellent results. 



WOOD FINISHING 8i 

White shellac must be used for 

Shellacking stained woodwork, as the commoner kind 
— orange shellac — will alter the tone of the stain 
and probably ruin the work. It is better to buy the 
white shellac already prepared. Use a 2-inch varnish 
brush such as is shown in Fig. 91, and if the shellac 
is thick, dilute it with alcohol just before using it, as 
it must be thin enough to flow freely over the work. 
Start at one end of the surface to be covered and 
work toward the other end, using long, even strokes 
and being careful not to skip any places and not to go 
over the same part of the surface twice ; uncovered 
portions and laps will show through the finish and give 
it an uneven appearance. 

Shellac alone makes a splendid finish for articles made 
of soft wood, — such as kitchen and pantry conveniences, 
etc., — and is quickly put on. The orange shellac is 
better than the white for this purpose, as it gives the 
wood a richer tone. You can buy the orange shellac 
chips and cut (dissolve) them by placing them in a glass 
preserve-jar, or empty varnish can, and covering them 
with wood alcohol. Dilute the shellac with alcohol as 
much as is necessary to make it thin, when you are 
ready to use it. Three coats of shellac are sufficient for 
an ordinary piece of work. Allow each coat to dry for 
at least a day before applying another, and sandpaper 
the surface after each coat has dried, to remove all rough- 
ness. After the final coat, instead of sandpapering it, a 



82 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

better finish may be obtained by rubbing the surface 
with a piece of flannel, or other soft cloth, dipped in 
powdered pumice-stone moistened with linseed-oil. Be- 
sides smoothing the surface, this rubbing cuts the gloss 
and produces an even, soft tone. All nail holes should 
be puttied up after the first coat has dried. 

Filling is necessary in preparing a surface for varnish- 
ing, to fill out the grain and make a smooth, level surface, 
especially on wood having a coarse grain, such as oak. 
Factory furniture, finished in Flemish-oak, weathered-oak, 
or any of the other modern stain finishes, is filled after 
the staining has been done ; but you will secure richer 
effects by omitting this from such work, as it conceals 
much of the beauty of the grain, especially in the open- 
grained woods. 

Filling is best done by the amateur with a 
Paste Filler, which can be purchased at any paint store. 
The filler must be thinned with turpentine to the con- 
sistency of cream and then be spread evenly over the 
wood with a brush or cloth, allowed to set for ten or fif- 
teen minutes, and then rubbed off across the grain so as 
to fill all of the pores ; do the rubbing with excelsior or a 
piece of burlap. The filler must be allowed to dry for 
about twelve hours before the shellacking Is done. Filler 
may be bought in the natural and colored to suit the 
finish to be applied to the wood, or it may be obtained 
already prepared In the color of one of a number of 
standard wood finishes. 



WOOD FINISHING 83 

Waxing gives a stained surface a much richer tone than 
varnish, and is easier to apply. Prepared wax can be 
purchased at a paint store. It should be rubbed on with 
a cloth, allowed to stand ten or fifteen minutes, and then 
rubbed vigorously with a soft cloth until a polish is 
obtained. Waxed surfaces must not come in contact 
with water, for they will become spotted if they do and 
require rewaxing. 

Varnishing is seldom done nowadays by amateur 
craftsmen in finishing woodwork, but it is necessary as 
a protection upon surfaces which are subjected to water, 
so a few pointers are given here. If the wood has an 
open grain, it must first be filled, then given a coat of 
shellac to form a body for the varnish. Flow the varnish 
over the surface with a varnish brush such as is shown 
in Fig. 91, then brush it crosswise of the grain and finish 
by brushing it lengthwise of the grain. One coat will 
be sufficient for all ordinary work, but two coats will pro- 
duce a finer finish. Several days' time should be allowed 
to elapse between coats. The glossy surface may be 
cut by 

Rubbing it down with a soft cloth dipped in powdered 
pumice-stone wet with linseed-oil or water. After the sur- 
face has been rubbed and the pumice-stone thoroughly 
cleaned off, it may be improved by 

Polishing with rottenstone and linseed-oil, rubbed on 
with a piece of cotton-flannel. 

In buying varnish it pays to get a good grade, as its 



84 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

better wearing qualities will make it cheaper in the long 
run than the low-priced varnishes, which are usually very 
unsatisfactory. 

Oiling the surface of a piece of work accentuates the 
markings of the grain and gives to the wood a beautiful 
rich tone. This is an especially good finish for articles 
made out of cigar boxes (see Chap. XI). Apply the oil 
with a brush or rag, then rub it vigorously with a soft 
cloth, until you have worked into the grain as much as 
it will take, and wipe off the superfluous oil. 

Sandpapering. You will have occasion to use about 
four grades of sandpaper — No.i|-for coarse work, Nos, -J- 
and o for medium work, and Nos. o and oo for fine work. 
Nos. o and oo are of the proper degree of fineness for 
sandpapering painted, stained, and shellacked surfaces. 
To avoid scratching a surface always sandpaper length- 
wise of the grain. For sandpapering flat surfaces, the 
paper should be attached to a block of wood. (On page 1 1 
of " The Boy Craftsman " is shown a specially formed 
block for this purpose.) 

Puttying. Putty can be purchased at the paint stores 
now in sealed one-pound cans, at about five cents a can. 
A small quantity will go a long way, and it is best to buy a 
small amount at a time, as it hardens very quickly when 
exposed to the air. Putty may be kept soft, however, by 
placing it in a can of water. 

Before using putty, knead it in your hand to work back 
into it the oil which rises to the surface, and if the article 



WOOD FINISHING 85 

upon which it is to be used is stained, work enough of 
the stain into it to make it of the right color. It is al- 
ways best to putty after the priming coat has been applied, 
in painting, and after the first coat of stain has been put 
on, in oil staining, as the oil soaks into the holes and 
cracks and the putty sticks better as a result. 

Painters use a putty-knife (Fig. 91) with v/hich to press 
putty into the crevices of work, but you can use the 
blade of your jack-knife for the purpose, or a fairly good 

Home-made Putty-knife may be obtained by cutting off 
square the end of a five-cent potato knife. 

As a final word upon the subject of wood finishing, the 
author wishes to caution you boys to 

Be Careful of Oily Rags and waste and not allow them 
to lie around, for they are very likely to catch fire 
through spontaneous combustion. Burn up everything 
of this nature as soon as you are through with it. 




By a working-drawing is meant a mechanical repre- 
sentation of an object, either draw^n accurately to meas- 
urements or laid out roughly with dimensions marked 
upon it, with which a mechanic can get to work and 
make the entire object complete. Sometimes, every part 
of the work can be so shown upon a single sheet that no 
other word of explanation is required by the mechanic ; 
again, on more complicated work, general working-draw- 
ings showing the main portions of the structure or ma- 
chine must be prepared, and then all the minor parts 
taken up singly and worked out [detailed) on other sheets, 
forming what are known as detail drawings. In very 
complex work hundreds of these drawings are often 
necessary in order that the designer or draftsman may 
make certain that every part of the construction will 
work out properly and that the workmen will understand 
his intentions, and in many kinds of work it is necessary 
to furnish in addition to all these details printed or type- 
written instructions, known as specifications, to explain 
the kinds, grades, and sizes of materials, and complicated 

86 




A Corner of the Author's Home Workroom. 

(For Working Drawings of the Table and Bench see Figs. 147 and 130, Chapter VI.) 



WORKING-DRAWINGS 87 

portions which cannot be covered by notes upon the 
drawings. 

The average person usually has difficulty in reading a 
working-drawing, for the fact that he looks at it as he 
does a picture, expecting to see everything standing out 
in a photographic form. And until the beginner under- 
stands what 2i plan, elevation, and sectio7i are he will con- 
tinue to have this difficulty. To make the explanation 
as simple as possible, the working-drawings for a dog- 
house are shown in Fig. 92. The plan shows a view of 
the floor of the house as you would see it if you sawed 
through the walls and removed the upper portion, and 
then could look down squarely upon every part at the 
same time. A view looking down upon the roof in the 
same way would be a roof plan, and a top view of any ob- 
ject is also known as 2l plan. A view of the front of the 
dog-house, which you would see if you could look squarely 
at every portion of the front at the same time, is called a 
front elevation, and the same kind of a view of the side 
is called a side elevation, while if a rear view had been 
necessary to show special work it would be known as a 
rear elevatio7i, and in case there were two side elevations 
they would be named left elevation and right elevation 
to distinguish one from the other, or in the case of a 
building or any stationary work the elevations would be 
designated by the points of the compass. By sawing 
the dog-house in two, crosswise, from the peak down 
through the base, removing the front portion and then 



88 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

looking toward the rear, you would see a sectional view 
of the house, and a true drawing showing this view would 
be called a section (see Fig. 92). A section may be 
taken through an object either horizontally or vertically 
(a plan taken through an object is in reality a horizontal 
section), and a section through the short way of an ob- 
ject is known as a cross-section, and one through the 
long way as a longitudinal section. A perspective draw- 
ing shows the object as you would actually see it when 
viewing it from one point, which is more or less similar to 
the view a camera would show. In this drawing the 
horizontal lines coitverge (approach one another) as they 
recede from the eye, which produces the same effect that 
is obtained when looking down a railroad track — the 
coming together of telegraph wires and tracks at a point 
on the horizon. A perspective of the dog-house is 
shown in Fig. 495, page 390. 

Working-drawings are made to different 
Scales, determined largely by the size and construction 
of the work. A very small object may be detailed full- 
size, while a building or a large piece of machinery 
would be shown at a small scale with \ inch or \ inch 
upon the drawing representing 12 inches on the object 
to be constructed, and different portions which are more 
or less complicated would be redrawn at a larger scale 
to make them clear. The drawings of the dog-house 
(Fig. 92) were made to a scale of i^ inches to the foot; 
that is, i^ inches on the drawing represents 12 inches 



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90 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

of the dog-house. They have been reduced considerably 
from this size in order to show them upon the page, but 
the ruler across the top indicates the original size to 
which they were drawn. Maps and printed drawings 
reduced to odd sizes, as in this case, have a graduated 
scale placed upon them, but the scale of working-draw- 
ings is usually expressed in this form: Scale 12'' = 
i-o" {full size) ; Scale 6" = I'-d' {half size) ; Scale 3'' 
= i-o'\ Scale I" = I'-o" \ Scale ^ ^ ^-o\ etc. The 
mark '' stands for inch or iitches and the mark ' iox foot 
or feet. 

Every boy should be able to prepare his own working- 
drawings in order that he may work out his own designs 
for furniture, wagons, boats, kites, aeroplanes, etc., and 
no important work should be attempted before it has 
been carefully drawn out upon paper, for, as the maxim 
goes, 

"Working without a plan is sailing without a compass," 

and work so constructed is bound to show defects either 
in the design or in the misfitting of parts. The furni- 
ture described in the following chapter is completely de- 
tailed and will give you a good idea of how such work 
should be laid out, but many of the other articles de- 
scribed in this book are illustrated only by sketches or 
perspective drawings, and before making these you 
should prepare drawings showing the work as you have 
determined to make it. 

A Drawing Outfit does not need to be an expensive 



WORKING-DRAWINGS 



91 



one, but as In the purchase of any kind of tools it pays 
in the end to buy only the best of materials ; these are 
usually to be found in the medium-priced equipment. 

A Drawing-board may be made by cleating together 
several boards as described on page 70 and illustrated in 
Fig. 85, but you can buy one so cheaply that it hardly 
pays to try to make one. The board must be absolutely 
true upon the left-hand edge, and the wood must be well- 
seasoned and free from 
winding, knots 2ind other 
defects, which points are 
taken care of in the 
boards you buy. A 
good size for small draw- 
ings is a student's board, 
size 16 inches by 22 
inches (Fig. 93). The 
board may be placed 
upon your desk while you work, or you may make 

A Drafting Table such as is shown opposite page 86, 
if you wish. This table has a large drawing-board for a 
top, but an ordinary table top may be constructed instead 
if you have a small drawing-board to use on it. Working- 
drawings for the construction of the table are given in 
Fig. 147, page 132. 

A T-square is used as a guide for the pencil in draw- 
ing horizontal lines, and a guide for the triangles for 
oblique lines. The crosspiece upon the end slides along 




Fig. 93. — A Student's Drawing-board (size 
16" X 22") and T-square and Triangles. 



92 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 




the left edge of the drawing-board and is moved with the 
left hand. A 

45-degree Triangle is required for drawing oblique 
lines at an angle of 45 degrees, and a 

60-degree Triangle for draw- 
ing oblique lines at angles of 
60 and 30 degrees (Fig. 93). 
With the addition of a ruler, 
a couple of pencils, an eraser, 
and 

Compasses, a boy will have 
as large an outfit as he probably 

will require for making draw- 
FiG. 97. Fig. 04. Fig. 05. Fig. 96. • r 1 -r-* 

mgs for shop use. risfure 04 

Fig. 94.— A Cheap Pencil-com- ^ ^ & :7t 

pass. shows a cheap pencil-compass 

F1G.95. — Compass with Pen, Pen- which will scrve the purposc, 

cil, and Divider Points. ... rr ^ 

FIG. 96. -Ruling-pen. ^ut if you Can afford a pair 

Fig. 97. — Chisel-shaped and sUch aS is shown in Fig. 95, 
Pointed Pencil Ends. -n 1 1 j.i. • i 

you will be better equipped 
for a greater variety of work. In the illustration of the- 
latter pair, A represents the body of the compass, B the 
needle point which fits into one leg, and C the pencil 
point which fits into the other leg, while D and E are 
divider points which may be substituted in place of the 
needle and pencil points to form a pair of dividers. F is 
Xh^ pen poijit ^\\\(z\\. is used in place of the pencil point for 
drawing in ink, and G is the extension bar with which 
either leg of the compass or divider may be extended. 



WORKING-DRAWINGS 



93 





Fig. 98. — How to 
swing a Compass. 



Swing the compass with one hand, as shown in Fig. 98. 
F'or drawing ink lines other than arcs of circles, a 

Ruling-pen is necessary (Fig. 96). 
The ruling-pen must be held in a per- 
pendicular position, with the ends of 
the fingers resting upon the T-square 
as shown in Fig. 99, so they will slide 
along the T-square easily. The thick- 
ness of the lines is governed by turning 
the screw upon the pen, which draws to- 
gether or spreads apart the two blades. 

The ink is 

dropped betw^een the blades by 
means of the quill upon the end 
of the cork furnished with the 
bottles of drawing ink (Fig. 
102). Figure 100 shows 
A Set of Instruments which, in 
Fig. 99. — How to hold a Ruling- addition to the compass^,com- 
P^^^^^- pass adjusting key B, pen point 

C, extension bar £>, and ruling-pen 
£, has a pair of dividers /% a small 
sized ruling-pen G, a small pair of 
dividers // {bow-dividers)^ a small 
pencil-compass / {bow- pencil) ^ a 
small pen-compass / {bow-pen), and Fig. too. — A Students' Set of 

a box of leads K. A moderate Drawing instruments. 

priced set of these instruments will cost about $6.50. 




94 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

For laying off measurements,^an ordinary 
i2-inch Ruler (Fig. 92) will do, but at a slight addi- 
tional cost a specially prepared 

Scale may be purchased. One of these is a time saver 
in making scale drawings. Some scales are made flat 
like a ruler, while others are triangular in shape as 
shown in Fig. loi. Upon the triangular scales eleven 
sets of graduations are provided — 12' (full size), 3'', iy\ 
i^ I"' F> F' T' r/> F' and 3V. In the illustration the 
I'' and f graduations are shown along one edge and 3" 
and i^'' divisions along the other. Each end division 

jp;^^^; ^ \ ' \ ' \ ' ^. •" \ " \ '^ \ '' V '• \ ""' V '^ \ '^' \ ^' \ -w ipsw?. 

Fig. ioi. — A Triangular Scale. 

of these Is also divided into twelve parts, each of which 
for that particular scale represents i inch. Flat scales 
are made with four or eight different kinds of divi- 
sions according to whether one side or both sides are 
graduated. 

Drawing Pencils are made in various grades designated 
by letters, ranging from 9H, which is very hard, down to 
6B, which is very soft. A 6H pencil is usually used in 
machine drawing, while a 3H is about the hardest used 
in architectural drawing. If you wish to use ordinary 
pencils, get a No. 4 or No. 5 (equivalent to 2H and 3H 
drawing pencils) for drawing upon hard paper, a No. 
2 (equivalent to a B) for a medium soft pencil, and a 
No. I (equivalent to a 3B) for a very soft pencil. For 



WORKING-DRAWINGS 



95 




drawing straight lines, a pencil should be sharpened 
chisel-shape {A, Fig. 97), which may be done by rubbing it 
upon a piece of No. 00 sandpaper, and for lettering and 
drawing curved lines it should be rubbed to a point {B, 
Fig. 97). For ordinary 
lettering in ink, Gillott's 
Nos. 303 and 170 

Pens are most satis- 
factory, while a No. 659 
should be used for very 
fine work. 

Drawing Ink. Spe- -^^^' ^°^- — Drawing-ink Bottle with Card- 
... board Collar to prevent Upsetting. 

cially prepared India 

ink (Higgins' Waterproof India Ink is almost universally 
used) should be bought for use in preparing ink draw- 
ings. This comes in small bottles with a quill upon 
the end of the cork with which to fill the ruling-pen 
(Fig. 102). Drawing inks may also be had in colors. 

X- -X An Ink Eraser and a Pencil Eraser 

are also required, and an 

Erasing Shield (Fig. 103) is a great 
convenience as a protection to the 
lines close to those which you wish to 
erase, as an opening of the proper size 
may be placed over that portion, and the surrounding 
lines will be covered. One of these shields can easily be 
prepared out of a piece of thin brass. 

About the most unfortunate thing which a young 







Fig. 103. — Erasing 
Shield. 



96 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



draftsman experiences is the upsetting of his ink-bottle 
on a drawing after working perhaps three or four days 
upon it. This is certain to happen sooner or later, if 
the bottle is set without a holder upon the table, and 
frequently when the boy is careless. Figure 102 shows 
a simple protection, consisting of a cardboard collar cut 
to fit over the neck of the bottle and of a large enough 

diameter to make it impos- 
sible to upset the ink. 

A Home-made Pencil Box 
and Inkstand such as is 
shown in Fig. 104 is very 
convenient. It is made out 
of a cigar box. One corner 
of the box is partitioned 
off to hold the ink-bottle, 

Fig. 104. —Cigar-box Pencil Box and and the COVCr haS a hole CUt 

through it so it will fit over 
the top of the cork when closed. The box will serve the 
purpose of a receptacle not only for pencils, but for your 
pens, thumb-tacks, erasers, and erasing shield as well. 

You may use small i -ounce flat-head tacks for holding 
down drawing-paper, but these are not as easily removed 
as regular 

Thumb-tacks, the best form of which is shown in 

Fig- 93. 

Drawing-paper specially prepared for pencil or ink may 
be purchased in sheets or rolls. For common use, how- 




WORKING-DRAWINGS 97 

ever, butchers' Manila wrapping paper will serve the 
purpose, and, the back of smooth medium- weight wallr 
paper has a good surface. Out-of-date stock of wall- 
paper can be purchased for a few cents a roll. The 
chief trouble with the common paper is that it roughens 
up when erased, but this will not be a serious objection for 
your shop drawings, and when you wish to prepare better 
appearing drawings, you may copy them upon better 
paper. 

The white-lined drawings which you have seen upon 
blue paper are known as 

Blueprints and are printed upon sensitized paper in 
the same way that a photograph blueprint is made from 
a plate or film. The negative in this case is prepared 
upon 

Tracing-cloth, which is a linen specially prepared so as 
to be very transparent, or upon 

Tracing-paper, which is a very transparent paper. The 
cloth or paper is tacked down over the drawing, and then 
everything is traced off upon it with ink exactly as it is 
upon the drawing below. The cloth has a glazed and a 
dull side, the former the right side, but the latter the one 
generally preferred by draftsmen as the better working 
surface. To make the ink flow smoothly, talcum powder 
is dusted upon the cloth and rubbed over it with a rag 
to cut any oil which may have collected upon the surface. 
Ink lines erase very easily from the cloth, and all pencil 
lines and dirt may be cleaned off after the tracing has 



98 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



been finished by wiping with a rag wet in benzine (do not 
use water, for it will ruin the finish surface on the cloth), 
which makes the use of the cloth for ink tracings almost 

universal. Trac- 
ing-paper is used, 
generally, for 
making pencil 
copies of draw- 
irjgs^ and for mak- 
g. on^ drawing 
over another 
when the same 
measurements 
are to be used in 
both, as will be 
explained later. 

After a tracing 
has been pre- 
pared it is placed 
in the printing- 
frame upon a 
piece of clear 
glass and a piece 
of blueprint paper is placed over it, then the paper is 
exposed and washed in the same way that an ordinary 
blueprint is made. If you own a photograph printing- 
frame, you can make your drawings to a small enough 
scale to fit it, but it is a simple matter to construct 




Figs. 105- 



[07. — Details of Home-made Blueprint 
frame. 



WORKING-DRAWINGS 99 

A Home-made Printing-frame. A good scheme is shown 
in Fig. 105. This may be made out of a picture-frame, 
or a similar frame can be made with the corners mitered 
and a rabbet formed on the inside by tacking narrow 
strips to the frame strips, as shown in Fig. 107. The 
wooden back must be provided with a spring attachment 
to make an equal pressure upon all parts, so there will be 
perfect contact between the paper and tracing at all points 
(Fig. 106). Make this back out of |-inch stuff, in one 
piece if possible, and fasten a cleat across it near each 
end to keep it from warping {A. and B, Fig. 106), then 
cut strip C of the proper length to reach from A to B 
and strip D to reach from side to side of the frame. 
Screw C and D together at their centers, boring a hole 
through D for the screw to run through so this strip will 
turn easily, and screw the ends of Cto ^ and B. Fasten 
a metal sash-lift in the proper place upon each side of the 
frame, and bevel off the ends of strip D enough so they 
will slip under them. The strips must be cut to the 
proper thickness so that strip D wdll have to be bent in 
the shape of a bow to slip its ends under the sash-lifts ; 
this places a pressure upon strip C, which transfers it to 
strips A and B, and the latter distribute it over the back 
of the frame. The back of the frame should be covered 
with a piece of thin cotton-flannel ; this must be glued in 
place and smoothed out carefully so there will be no 
wrinkles. A cheaper grade of paper than that used for 
photographic work is manufactured for blueprinting, and 



loo HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

this can be purchased in rolls put up in sealed tubes. 
Use a small piece of paper to make a test print upon, to 
determine the proper length of time for exposure. 

Preparing Working-drawings. Before laying out a set of 
working-drawings, the general plan of the piece of work 
must be sketched out, and the various dimensions and 
the method of construction determined upon. All this 
preliminary work may be done very roughly. 

The first part to lay out is the plan, then the elevations 
and sections. It is often necessary to work out a sec- 
tion before the elevations, or at the same time, as in the 
case of a house where the heights of the exterior features 
are determined by the wall and floor construction. By 
placing the drawings as shown in Fig. 92, the lines of the 
plan may be continued down (^projected) for the cross-sec- 
tion, and the heights maybe projected horizontally to the 
left for the front elevation and to the right for the side ele- 
vation, while the corner spaces may be filled with detail 
drawings. In the details of the dog-house, the side lines 
of the ends were projected up from the front elevation, and 
those of the sides w^ere carried up from the side elevation. 
Although there are many other schemes for laying out a 
set of drawings, this is about the simplest method for you 
to use in your work, which will be more or less simple. In 
more complicated work it is general practice, especially 
in the planning of buildings, to place a piece of trac- 
ing-paper over the plan after that has been laid out, and 
to lay out the section upon this, then to place another 



WORKING-DRAWINGS loi 

piece of tracing-paper over the section and lay out a front 
elevation upon this. The transparency of the paper 
makes it possible for the draftsman to see through the 
sheets and, without having to lay out the main widths and 
the heights again, to mark them off upon the top sheet 
just as they are located upon the plan and section sheets 
below. After the front elevation has been laid out, one 
of the side elevations is prepared in the same way, from 
the plan and either the front elevation or section ; the 
opposite side elevation and the rear elevation are made 
by reversing the side elevation and front elevation sheets 
and tracing off the similar portions and changing the 
rest to suit the plan. 

Lay out your drawings with a light line first, then 
check up your measurements, and if everything appears, all 
right, go over the work and make all the outlines heavy. 
Cross-hatch (shade with diagonal lines placed at equal 
distances apart) all portions of the plan and section which 
are " cut through," in order to show which is in section 
and which in elevation, and change the direction of the 
cross-hatching upon adjoining pieces to accent the point 
where one piece ends and another begins. After the draw- 
ing has been completed, 

Draw Dimension-lines upon the plan, section, elevations, 
and details wherever measurements are necessary (these 
should be broken lines and be lighter than the outlines) ; 
then fill in the dimensions in feet and inches. 

Besides the heavy and light full lines, and the broken 



I02 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

dimension-lines, you will have occasion to use a dot-and- 
dash line for center-lines and to indicate upon the plan 
where sections have been made (Fig. 92), and the dotted 
line to indicate upon plan, sections, elevations, and details 
the work concealed and that which is above or upon the 
opposite side (see Furniture Working-drawings, Chap. 
VI), and to show where material is to be cut or folded 
(see Fig. 262, page 194). 

Always leave a space in one corner of the sheet, 
preferably the upper or lower right-hand corner, in which 
to 

Letter the Title of your Drawing, your name, the scale 
of the drawing, and the date upon which it is finished 
(Fig. 92). This lettering may be separated from the 
drawing by heavy lines. Draw 

Marginal Lines around the outside of the drawing, and 
leave a margin of about \ inch upon the sheet outside 
of this line. Plain 

Gothic Letters look best for titles and notes, when 
well made. Always rule two light horizontal guide-lines 
between which to letter, so that it will be easy to keep 
the tops and bottoms of the letters on a line, and if you 
have trouble in making vertical lines, you may use a tri- 
angle with which to straighten them. 




m^H 



CHAPTER VI 

EASILY MADE FURNITURE 




If you have carried out the exercises of the preceding 
chapters and studied carefully all instructions, there is 
no reason why you should not be prepared to under- 
take some simple cabinet making. This work will be a 
better test of your skill as a craftsman than would any 
other kind of carpentry. 

If I am not mistaken, what you boys want to make in 
furniture are things which will be of practical use for 
your own room and for other parts of the house, and 
things which will be suitable to give away and to sell. The 
articles described upon the following pages have been 
selected with these points in mind. After you have 
turned out a few well-made pieces so you will have some 
good samples to show^ you should have no difHculty in 
securing enough orders at fairs, and from friends and 
relatives, to enable you to work up a profitable little 
business, especially a month or so before the holidays, 
when practical gifts are much in demand. 

Many boys are earning money in this way. The 
frontispiece shows the factory of " The Juvenile Manu- 

103 



104 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

facturing Company," an organization of six energetic 
boys of Dayton, Ohio — Masters Charles Deeds, Pres. 
and Gen. Mgr., Fulton Davisson, Jr., Vice Pres. and 
Supt., Robert Canby, Secy., Charles Whidden, Treas., 
and Stanley Raugh and Evan Whidden. These boys 
are doing a flourishing business, and from the excellent 
work they are turning out it is no wonder that they are 
succeeding so well. The firm has issued an attractive 
catalogue of 8 pages containing illustrations of their line 
of goods, a group photograph of the officers and Board 
of Directors, an exterior view of the office and factory, — 
which is fitted up in a playhouse belonging to one of the 
boys, — and two views of completed orders loaded on to 
automobiles ready for local delivery and shipment to out- 
of-town customers. The catalogue states, in part, the 
following : — 

" The plant is running Mondays, Thursdays, and Fridays after school, 
and all day Saturdays. Visitors are welcome on Saturdays. 

" Only the best materials are used, and no cheap laborers are em- 
ployed ; the officers and Board of Directors do the work themselves. 

" The purchaser of any article produced by this Company is not only 
getting more value for the money paid than he could get at any store, 
but at the same time is encouraging a Company of energetic little busi- 
ness men to get a training which is most practical. 

" Our business is meeting with great success. We are always behind 
with our orders. Our customers are our best advertisers because we 
give them more for their money than they can get anywhere else." 

You will have to hustle some, boys, to accomplish 
what these lads have, but there is no reason why you 



Fig. 111. 



Fig. 110. 



f^- 



u. 



Fig. 108. 



^ 



W 



^ 




^1 



Fig. 113. 



Fig. 109. 





^%t::^-^Fia 112. 

Fig. 108. Whisk-Bkoom Holder. 
Fig. 109. Clock-Shelf. 
Figs. 110 and 111. Necktie-Racks. 
Figs. 112, 113 and 114. Book-Racks. 



EASILY MADE FURNITURE 105 

cannot make a success of a similar enterprise in your 
own home town if you know of a number of fellows who 
would be good workers and would have enough stick-to- 
it-iveness in them to keep up an interest in the work. 

The articles shown opposite page 104 are especially 
good material for the beginner to start upon on account 
of the simplicity of their construction. 

Choice of Material. There are a number of varieties 
of wood well adapted to amateur furniture making, and 
these are mentioned in Chapter III, while the matter of 
finish is discussed in Chapter IV. 

A Whisk-broom Holder such as is shown in Fig. 108 is 
a handy article for a bedroom. It should be made out 
of ^-inch stuff (which is f inch thick dressed) with the 
different parts cut as shown in the w^orking-drawings 
(Fig. 115). In order to get the two side edges of the 
back piece alike, first draw a center-line upon the piece 
of wood as shown, then lay off the dimensions each side 
of this. Draw the curve upon one side, then reproduce 
it upon the other side at an equal distance from the 
center-line, tracing it off with a piece of tracing-paper to 
get the curves alike. Lay off the tapered edges of the 
front piece each side of a center-line in the same way. 
With the front, back, and side pieces prepared, nail them 
together with i-inch brads, set the brad-heads, then 
sandpaper, putty, and finish. 

A Clock-shelf is a neat gift, and Fig. 109 shows one 
which is easily constructed. Make this out of i-inch 



io6 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



stuff (J|- inch thick dressed). After cutting the top and 
two brackets as shown in Fig. 1 16, bevel the upper front 
and end edges of the top piece and the two diagonal 
edges of each bracket piece, gauging the width and 



.-CEMTEF 




CErMTEQrLirje *t 



Fig. 117. — Detail of Back of Necktie Rack shown 
in Fig. no. 





Fig. 115. — Whiisk- 
broom Holder 
shown in Fig. 108. 



Fig. 118. — Detail of Back of Towel-rack shown in 
Fig. III. 

U-, ,2-- 



^ 



Pftdrvj 




Fig. 116. — Details of Clock-shelf shown in Fig. 109. 

depth of the bevels and cutting them as described on 
page 71 (see Bevel). Fasten the brackets to the top 
piece with i^-inch finishing-nails in the positions indi- 
cated by dotted lines in the drawing. In the back view 



EASILY MADE FURNITURE 107 

of the completed shelf (Fig. 109) is shown the method of 
fastening it to a wall. A screw-eye is screwed into the 
under side of the shelf top, just inside of each bracket, 
and these eyes slip over a couple of nails or screws driven 
into the wall in corresponding positions. 

The Necktie Rack shown in Fig. 1 10 has a back cut out 
of |-inch stuff (see working-drawing for back in Fig. 1 17) 
with seven brass screw-hooks screwed into it in two 
rows. Scribe two pencil lines across the center of the 
board about i inch apart, then starting at the center of 
the length of the board, mark the location of the center 
hook, and each side of this locate the other hooks 2 
inches apart, alternating them on the two lines as shown. 
Fasten two screw-eyes in the top of the board, one at 
each end, by means of which to hang the rack upon the 
wall. 

In Fig. 1 1 1 is shown a rack which may be used either 
for a necktie rack or 

A Towel-rack. Cut the back board out of |-inch stuff, 
laying it out according to the working-drawing (Fig. 1 18), 
and procure a short brass extension curtain-rod for the 
front. The rod will be furnished with screw-hooks with 
which to fasten it to the board; these should be screwed 
in so the rod will set i inch away for a necktie rack or 3 
inches away for a towel-rack. 

Book-racks of three forms have been designed, for they 
are so commonly used upon the library table of the home 
to keep in order the books in immediate use, that you 



io8 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

will probably wish to make more than one kind. In the 
rack shown in Fig. 1 1 2 the base piece is grooved near 
each end for the end pieces to fit in (Fig. 119), while in 
the rack shown in Fig. 1 1 3 tenons are cut on the ends 
of the base pieces to fit mortises made in the end pieces, 
and these tenons are held in place by means of pins 
driven into holes bored through them (Fig. 120). The 
latter rack possesses one advantage over the former, and 
that lies in the fact that its pins may be withdrawn at 
any time and its pieces pulled apart and put away in a 
compact form. To prevent splitting, do the cutting of 
the grooves and mortises in the members of the racks 
before trimming off their ends, so there will be as much 
wood as possible outside of the portions cut. (For mak- 
ing mortise-and-tenon joints, see page 61.) After the 
racks have been put together and finished, glue strips of 
felt to the bottoms to prevent them from scratching any 
surface upon which they stand. 

An Extension Book-rack is a little more complicated to 
make than the above two, but the work is not difficult. 
The rack shown in Fig. 114 is 16 inches long between 
the ends when pushed together and 28^ inches long 
when extended. Figure 121 shows the details for this 
rack. The base is made out of a i-by-4-inch tongued- 
and-grooved board, a piece about 3 feet long being re- 
quired, while the end pieces are cut out of i-inch stock. 
The idea of using the tongued-and-grooved board for the 
base is that the tongues and grooves for the slides are 



Center Line-|- 




®^^^'' Sectionthpough base 




FiG. 119. — Details of Book-rack shown in Fig. 112. 



-t 6"- 



A'^- 



^4'Moi.e forPin 






1^ . 11 



PUANOFBASE 



H^^: 



5^-^'-^ 



Fig. 120. — Details of Book-rack shown in Fig. 113. 




«-STRIP'E"IS 
D PASTE NED TO 

ENDS OF'A'and"B\ . 

TOKJGUE-^ ,' I 



Fig. 121. — Details of Extension Book-rack shown in Fig. 114. ^ 



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The nail in under side of BOaRD'D' strikes miMt-i 

BLOCK'E'ANO-PREVENTS RACK FROM OPENING BEVOND THAT POINT 



^^^^^^^m^^^^^^^^ 



• Section-through Center OF Rack • 
Figs. 119-121. — Working-drawings for Book-racks. 



109 



no HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

already made, and you will be saved the trouble of cut- 
ting them. The tongue on piece A (see plan of base 
pieces, Fig. 121), with the exception of a 2-inch piece, 
is left to slide in the groove in piece D, while the groove 
on piece B is left for the tongue on D to slide in. A 
and B may be ripped from opposite edges of the tongued- 
and-grooved board. Piece C should be cut to the exact 
width of D (without tongue or groove), while strip E 
should be equal in length to the combined widths of A, 
B, and D, After the base pieces and the two end pieces 
have been prepared, nail one end of base pieces A and 
B to the ends of C and the opposite end to the upper 
face of piece E. 

The ends of the rack may be nailed directly to the 
ends of the base pieces, but it is better to hinge them in 
place, as the ends may be folded flat at any time by so 
doing, and the rack packed away in a small space. Buy 
two pairs of f-inch by i-inch brass hinges, and hinge one 
end to piece C and the other end to piece D, notching 
the ends of C and D just enough to receive the hinges. 
The drawings show the locations for the hinges. Strip E 
prevents the ends of A and B from springing apart. To 
prevent the rack from pulling apart lengthwise, drive a 
small nail into the under side of piece D, as shown in the 
sectional drawing, so it will strike against strip E. Glue 
strips of felt to the bottoms of the end pieces and strip E, 
Of the medium-sized pieces of furniture. 
Tabourets and Plant Stands are probably most in de~ 



EASILY MADE FURNITURE in 

mand, for the living-room or library is not complete now- 
adays without one or two of these to hold fancy vases, 
jardiniers, fern dishes, and potted plants. There is no 
limit to the number of shapes which could be devised 
for them, but you will probably find the three designs 
shown opposite page no of varied enough character to 
make the construction of one of each worth while. In 
presenting the working-drawings for the tabourets and 
plant stands, as well as those for the other pieces of 
furniture of an equal or a larger size, 

A List of Material showing the exact finished dimen- 
sions of each part of the work, and the number of pieces 
of like size required, has been placed alongside or above 
the details. These lists will help you in figuring up the 
amount of material necessary for each piece of work, but 
they are not in proper shape to take to the mill or lumber 
yard from which to order, for it will be cheaper to com- 
bine pieces which can be cut out of boards of stock widths 
and lengths and do the sawing yourself. After deciding 
what articles you wish to construct, it is a very simple 
matter to estimate exactly how much material you will 
require. Of course, enough additional length and width 
over the finished dimension must be allowed on each 
piece for the waste produced in sawing and truing up. 

In preparing the top for 

The Tabouret shown in Fig. 122 (Fig. 126), first plane 
up the piece to the proper dimensions, then mark off 
the triangular pieces which are to be removed from the 



112 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

corners and saw them off. If' the work has been done 
carefully, the legs will fit the corners exactly right. 
Bevel the edges of the legs, as shown, with a chisel. 
The diagonal leg braces, or stretchers, are halved at 
their centers (see Halved-joint, page 60). When these 
have been joined together, lay them across the top 
piece in the position indicated by dotted lines on the 
plan, to see that the ends come even with, and at right 
angles to, the corners. Then procure No. 9, round-head, 
blued finishing-screws, if inches long, and screw the 
pieces together as shown (see Screws, page 72). 

After making a tabouret or any other piece of furni- 
ture. 

If you find the Legs rest unevenly upon the floor, it is a 
simple matter to correct the fault. Locate the short leg 
and put a chip under it to block it up, then cut a block 
of wood of just the right thickness to slip under this 
short leg, and, with it as a gauge, slide it around the 
four sides of each of the long legs, and scribe a knife 
line across each side on a line with the top of the block. 
It is then a simple matter to finish off the legs to these 
lines. 

The Tabouret shown in Fig. 123 requires a little more 
work than that in Fig. 122, as the panel pieces C (Fig. 
127) are tenoned into the rails A and B, and the ends of 
the rails are tenoned into the legs; but mortising is a 
simple operation once it has been mastered, and the 
mortise-and-tenon is one of the most commonly used 



T 


L,5T OF MATER.A. | 








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Fig. 126. — Details of Tabouret shown 
in Fig. 122. 



• ELEVATION ■ 

Fig. 127. — Details of Tabouret shown 
in Fig. 123. 




Side Elevation 



^ ^^ -^i fA if "'< 

-._ MORTISES FOB PINS--' w, ■ * / ^\ / j^^r- V ^-_5 

EndElevation 



Fig. 128. — Details of Plant Stand shown in Fig. 124. 



"3 



114 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

joints and one of the strongest .of the cabinet-maker's 
methods of joining together work. The operation of 
mortising and the preparation of the tenons is fully de- 
scribed on pages 61-65. The mortises for the ends of 
pieces C need not be more than \ inch deep, while \ 
inch is sufficient for the ends of A and B. See descrip- 
tion of Bench on page 1 1 7 for assembling mortised-and- 
tenoned work. Secure the top piece to the legs by means 
of round-head screws such as are specified for the other 
tabouret. 

The Plant Stand illustrated by Fig. 124 is designed 
more or less along the lines of the much-used mission 
furniture. For the working-drawings see Fig. 128. The 
preparation of the mortises and tenons for the connection 
of the stretcher to the end pieces will be easy, if you have 
carried out the exercises suggested in Chapter III. The 
mortises are slightly undercut on the outer end to make 
them correspond with the taper on the pins, and are cut 
^g inch inside of the line of the side pieces, as you will 
see by looking at the dimensions on the stretcher, so 
that the pins will drive the end pieces tight against the 
shoulders of the stretcher. 

A Footstool, with a shelf below on which the current 
magazines may be piled, makes a handy piece of furniture 
for a den or library. An attractive design for one along 
simple lines is shown in Fig. 125. The working-draw- 
ings for this are shown in Fig. 129. After preparing the 
top, the shelf, and the end pieces, fasten the shelf and 



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ii6 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

ends together by means of the pins, then secure the top 
between the ends with round-head screws. A strip of 
quarter-round (a small molding) should be nailed to the 
upper side of the top along each side edge, as shown in 
the cross-section, for a ground to hold out the sides of 
the upholstering, and a narrow strip should be nailed to 
each end piece ^ inch below the top for a ground to tack 
the upholstering cover to. 

Upholstering Material can be purchased at almost any 
dry-goods store. You will require some hair for filling, 
cheese-cloth or light-weight muslin for covering the hair, 
2-ounce cut tacks for fastening the cloth, leather, imitation 
leather, or heavy denim for the top covering, and large- 
head tacks covered to match the top material. Perhaps 
you can get some hair from an old pillow or mattress, 
and your mother probably can furnish you with the 
cloth covering. Leather is rather expensive, about $3 a 
yard, while the imitation leather can be purchased for 
about $1.25 a yard (i yard wide), and denim will cost 15 
cents a yard. The imitation leather wears better than real 
leather and is probably the most satisfactory material to 
use. Tacks with large heads, made of a composition to 
match leather or imitation leather, can be bought for 
from 3 to 5 cents a dozen. 

To upholster the top of the Footstool, first lay a piece 
of the cloth over it and tack it to the ground along one 
side and to the grounds along the ends, thus forming a 
pocket in which to stuff the hair. The cloth must be 



EASILY MADE FURNITURE 117 

loose enough to allow for sufficient packing, but as it will 
stretch considerably it may be pulled fairly tight. Pack 
the hair into the farther side and the two ends, first, and 
use a small stick with which to push it into the right 
places. The work is not difficult, but it must be done 
carefully, and all hollows must be filled out as you go 
along in order to make a nicely shaped top. When the 
near side is filled, stretch the cloth tightly over the hair 
and tack it to the quarter-round ground. With the 
hair held in place by the cloth covering, it is an easy 
matter to put on the leather or other covering. Draw a 
line upon the edges of the wood top to indicate the edge 
of the covering, and f inch or \ inch above this draw 
another line parallel to it upon which to locate the tack 
holes ; also draw a guide-line along the top of each end 
ground for the end tack holes. Space the holes upon 
these lines i\ inches from center to center, or as near to 
that as will make all the spaces equal, and punch holes 
for the tacks with a brad-awl which is a trifle smaller than 
they are. Turn in the edge of the covering material all 
around, then fasten it in place with the tacks. 

The Bench in the photograph opposite page 86, Chapter 
V, is a neat-appearing piece of furniture suitable for a 
bedroom or any of the living-rooms. The details for its 
construction are shown in Fig. 130. First, prepare the 
legs and end rails, and mortise and tenon them as shown ; 
then, when the pieces have been fitted properly, mark the 
tenons and the mortises with letters in such a way that 



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EASILY MADE FURNITURE 119 

you will know just which fits into which, which edge is 
up and which face turns out. Next, cut the mortises in 
the lower rails for the stretcher, then prepare the stretcher 
as in the detail, trim its ends to fit the mortises in the 
rails and mortise them for the pins. The side rails should 
be cut next. Where all the joints consist of a mortise 
and a tenon, as in the case of this bench, each member 
should be fitted and tested as cut; then, when all the 
members have been cut, fit them together and go over 
the whole piece of work, and if any trimming is required, 
mark the locations. Then take the members apart, trim 
where you have found it necessary and sandpaper each 
piece. The beveling of the tops of the legs and ends of 
the stretcher may be left until this stage of the construc- 
tion (do this beveling with a chisel). 

Assemble the pieces in the order in which you prepared 
them, and coat the end of each tenon and the inside of 
each mortise with glue before fitting them in place. After 
the glue has had time to set, cut the top piece to fit be- 
tween the upper rails and fasten it in place with screws. 
Before boring holes for the screws, locate the places 
where the large tacks are to go so you can avoid them. 
Nail a piece of quarter-round along the top edge of each 
of the upper rails to hold in the edges of the upholster- 
ing filling. 

Finish the wood, then upholster the top in the 
manner described for the Footstool. The covering 
material must be cut very carefully at the corners and 



I20 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

be turned in neatly around the legs. Space the tacks 
about i| inches on centers. 

With the general increase in the reading of monthly, 
semimonthly, and weekly magazines comes the problem 
of taking care of. the back numbers with which the 
family are not entirely through, for the accumulation is 
rapid, and a place must be found where they can be piled 
in some kind of order. 

Magazine-racks made upon the plan of open bookcases, 
but with the shelves spaced closer together, solve the 
problem of keeping them within convenient reach and 
at the same time in a tidy manner. The magazine-rack 
illustrated in Fig. 131 is shown in detail in Fig. 135. 
As the ends of this spread out at the bottom, the end 
pieces and the shelves must have their ends cut off on 
the diagonal. The way to get the proper angle for 
trimming off these ends is to lay the end pieces upon 
the floor on their edges, at the given distances apart, and 
then tack a strip across the edges near the top and 
bottom to hold them temporarily in that position. Then 
place the finished top piece against the tops of the end 
pieces and you will see just how much trimming they re- 
quire. If you have a bevel (Fig. 34, page 26), set it to 
this angle and mark off the ends of each end piece 
accordingly ; also mark off the shelf ends. Without 
the bevel the work may be done with a square, but be 
very careful to lay out each end of each piece the 
same, or the pieces will not fit satisfactorily. The 




Figs. 131 and 132. — Magazine-Racks. 
Fig. 133. — Music-Cabinet. Fig. 134. — Umbrella-Stand. 



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122 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

shelves and top are fastened to the end pieces with 
round-head screws. 

The magazine-rack shown in Fig. 132 has shelves of 
equal length, but the widths vary, as is shown in the 
cross-section detail (Fig. 136). Fasten the shelves to 
the end pieces with round-head screws. 

The Music-cabinet shown in Fig. 133 will make an 
attractive piece of furniture for a music room. First, 
prepare the end pieces and the shelves (Fig. 137), then 
after these pieces have' been fastened together, put on the 
back boards and make and hang the paneled door. The 
best scheme for making a tight-fitting back is to use 
matched-and-beaded boards (known as M-&-B ceiling). 
A board always shrinks crosswise of the grain (but not 
lengthwise), and also expands and contracts to a certain 
extent with the changes in the atmosphere, and this 
movement must be provided for in joining pieces to- 
gether, or there will be trouble. Take the music-cabi- 
net, for example. Here the back will shrink and swell in 
the width of the cabinet, but the shelves will not, as their 
grain runs the other way, and under these conditions, if 
the back boards are wide, and are fitted snugly and 
nailed to the shelves, they are bound to split in shrink- 
ing or buckle (bulge out) in swelling, for the shelves 
will not move with them ; but if the boards are narrow, 
the movement in each piece will of course be very slight, 
and the small amount that there is may be taken care of 
in the joints, where, if the boards are matched and beaded, 




J 23 



124 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

it will not be noticeable. Rabbet the two side pieces 
and the top and bottom shelf (see Rabbet, page 65) so 
the boards of the back will set flush with the edges, and 
plane off enough of the back edge of the middle shelf to 
allow the boards to pass (see Cross-section^. Cut the 
rabbets about \ inch wide by the thickness of the boards. 
Use finishing-nails for nailing together the cabinet 
pieces, and nail the boards of the back to the rabbeted 
surfaces as shown in the rear elevation. 

The details show an original idea for constructing a 
paneled door, which so simplifies the work that any boy 
will find such a door easy to make. The rails and the 
stiles of the frame are made of a tongued-and-grooved 
board with the groove left on it to receive the edges of 
the pa7teL Tenons are cut upon the ends of the rails, 
and mortises are made in the stiles to receive them, and 
the board used for the panel is rabbeted on the edges 
of one face to fit the grooves in the frame. The rail 
tenons should be about i\ inches long, and the mortises 
a trifle deeper, and the panel board must fit loosely in the 
frame, with plenty of space between its edges and the 
bottom of the groove, to allow for the movement caused 
by the expansion and contraction of the wood. Glue 
the frame together, but leave the panel loose. A paneled 
door is usually made a trifle larger all around than the 
opening in which it is to be hinged, to allow ior fitting 
it to the opening; the dimensions given provide for 
this. 



EASILY MADE FURNITURE 125 

Buy a pair of brass butts of the size shown with 
which to hinge the door in place, and screw these to the 
edge of the door, notching the edge enough to receive 
the full thickness of the folded hinge. A cupboard lock, 
which sets into a mortise cut in the edge of the door 
stile, as shown in the detail (a Mortise-lock), makes the 
neatest appearing job, but the lock shown just above it 
(a Half-mortise lock) is easier to put on as the cutting is 
done on the inside face of the stile. With either lock the 
selvage-plate [the front plate through which the ^^// passes] 
must be set flush with the edge of the stile. Upon the 
face of the stile carefully locate the key-pin, then cut a 
hole a trifle larger than the key through the stile into the 
mortise. After the lock has been screwed in place and 
properly adjusted, tack an escutcheon plate over the keyhole 
to finish it off. Locate where the lock bolt strikes the 
side of the cabinet, and cut a small pocket at that point 
for it to turn into. Directly inside of the door tack a 
narrow strip of wood to the under side of the top shelf 
and another down each side, as stop strips for the door to 
strike against. These must be adjusted so the door will 
close properly. 

Figure 134 shows a new idea for 

An Umbrella-stand, and Fig. 138 the details for its 
construction. The base holds a tin muflin-pan, each 
cup of which forms a receptacle for an umbrella end. 
These pans are made with six, eight, or twelve cups, 
so you can plan your stand to hold as many umbrellas 



126 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



i 



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SlOe ELEVATION 



Puan\ 



as you wish. Make the two frames of equal size and 
just large enough to hold the rim of the muffin-pan (the 
size of the pan used will determine the dimensions of 
these frames), using strips 2 inches wide, then cut 
four uprights of the sizes shown, and fasten them to the 
four corners so that they will just conceal the joints in 
the frames (see plan). The muffin-pan should fit loosely 

enough in the lower 
frame so it may be re- 
moved easily for clean- 
ing. It should be 
painted with a couple of 
coats of dull register- 
enamel to keep it from 
rusting, as well as to 

En"d ELEVATION glvC it 2i fiuisfi. 

Fig. 138. — Details of Umbrella-stand J^ Roman Chair SUch 

shown in Fig. 134. . , • -r-- 

as IS shown m rig. 139 
makes a pretty seat for a hall or reception-room. First 
prepare the four corner posts and the end rails (Fig. 143), 
and cut mortises in the posts f inch deep to receive 
the ends of the rails, then prepare the front and rear 
rails as shown and make mortises in the posts J inch 
deep to receive them. Next cut the stretcher as it is 
detailed in the plan, mortise the lower end rails for its 
ends to run through, and prepare pins to fit the stretch- 
er's mortises. Read the instructions given upon page 
117 for marking, fitting together, and gluing the mor- 




MAKE TWO frames) 
UKETHIS'' 



^v. 



LIST OF MATERIAL 1 


Pieces 




PARTS 


4 






2 


l3/i6''<3'/4" X 17 1/2- 


Arms 


4 


■• X2y2"xl4- 


End Rails 


2 


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2 


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FRONT *BACK - 


1 


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STRETCHER 


6 


•■ X 2- x2-3i 


SEAT SLATS 


1 




CUEATS.PlNS.ETC 



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Front-Rail. 




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•FRONT Elevation! 






ARM 




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CROSS-SECTION ■ 



Fig. 143. — Details of Roman Chair shown in Fig. 139. 



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Rail 




RAIL 


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LIST OF MATERIAL 


PIECES 


0*MEM5I0NS 


PARTS 


2 


1 V4'X 3V4"x3-4" 


LEGS 


4 


'Vie'x 1 3/B-XI3 '/a' 


SEAT Rails 


2 


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LOWER ■■ 


3 


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Back 


1 




STRETCHER 


2 


5/e"X 7 3/4- XI 5" 


SEAT 



il 



'CORNER BRACE 



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Connection OF 
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LOWER RAILS MORTlSEDl 

TO Receive Ends 

OFSTRETCmER->) 



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Front. Elevation CROSS^vSECTION- 

Fig. 144. — Details of Mission Chair shown in Fig. 140. 
127 



128 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

tised and tenoned pieces of the Bench, and follow these 
in assembling the Roman Chuir. Nail a cleat to the 
inside face of the four seat rails to support the seat 
slats, then cut the slats to the proper length and 
nail them to the cleats, spacing them \ inch apart. 
Screw the arm pieces to the tops of the posts and to 
the top end rails, using round-head screws. 

You will probably require the assistance of your 
mother or sister in making the cushion for the seat. 
This should be about 2\ inches thick, and should be 
stuffed with hair and tacked every 4 or 5 inches with 
strong linen thread to hold the filling in place. By 
examining a cushion, or even a bed mattress, the 
method of sewing together the cover so as to give the 
cushion a square box effect will be understood. The 
cushion will havQ ^tpj be'' pliable ^noug^ at the corners 
to fit around the corner posts, as' shown. 
Figure 140 shows an attractive design for 
A Mission Chair, and Fig. 144 includes the necessary 
working details. The front legs may be cut from the 
waste piece left after cutting out the back legs; bevel 
the tops of these pieces as shown. The legs are mor- 
tised \ inch to receive the ends of the rails, the lower 
rails are mortised \ inch for the ends of the stretcher, 
and the seat rails are braced with corner blocks, as 
shown in the small detail plan. The seat is made out of 
two 4Dieces of an 8-inch board and is nailed to the tops 
of the seat rails flush with the outside face of the rails. 




Fm. 139. 





Fig. 140. 



^ 




Fig. 142. 



Fig. 141. 



f 



Fig. 139. — A Roman Chair. Fig. 140. — A Mission Chair. 

Fig. 142. — An Electric Lamp. Fig. 141. — A Mission Writing-Desk. 



t 



EASILY MADE FURNITURE 



129 



Upholster the seat as described on page 116 for the 
Footstool, only do not put on a greater thickness of 
the hair filling than is shown in the cross-section of 
the chair. 

A Mission Writing-desk such as that illustrated in 
Fig. 141 is easy to construct. After preparing the legs 



BACK O' LETTER-RACK 



2-3 •■ ■ 



LIST OF-MATERIAL- | 


PIECES 


DIMENSIONS 


PARTS 


2 




BACK LEGS 


2 


•• x2-5^is' 


FRONT ■■ 


■? 


.V,«-X4'^'' x2'-3./2- 


■ * REAR apron; 


2 


.. X .. X n'/2- 


END APRONS 


2 


.. X13/4" X 


RAILS 




.. xiV2"x2'-4i/..- 


SHEUF 


1 


- X9'/2- X 2-3'M- 


BOTTOM OF BOX 


( 


■• x45/,6-x •■ 


BAC.< -. .. 


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TOP 




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BACK OF LETTER Rack 


1 


Ve- X../4"X2'-5V2' 






Front Elevation 



CR055-5ECTI0N 



Fig. 145. — Details of Mission Writing-desk shown in Fig. 141. 

according to the detail (Fig. 145), cut the end aprons 
and rails, and mortise the legs to receive their ends. 
Make the front and rear aprons and cut mortises in the 
legs to receive them, then prepare the shelf and rabbet 



I30 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

the end rails for its ends to set m. The material box is 
completed by adding two boards, one for the bottom and 
the other for the back; these may be fastened in place 
with finishing-nails. As the front portion of the desk 
top is hinged to the back portion, to give access to the 
material box, you will be saved the work of gluing up a 
wide top. The back board of the top must be fitted 
neatly around the back legs. Hinge the front portion of 
the top to the back portion with a pair of brass butts ij 
inches by 2 inches in size. The back legs must be mor- 
tised as shown, to receive the ends of the back of the 
letter-rack, and this back piece must be slipped into place 
at the same time that the shelf ends are slipped into the 
mortises in the end rails. The front of the letter-rack is 
screwed to the front face of the back legs. 

As mentioned before, in a big piece of work where a 
number of the parts are mortised-and-tenoned, fit every- 
thing together, first, before gluing or nailing any part in 
place permanently. 

With electricity coming into general usage for light- 
ing dwellings, oil and gas lamps are being displaced by 
electric lamps. 

An Electric Lamp with a wooden stand and base is 
very simple to make. Figure 142 shows an attractive 
design for a desk or table lamp, fitted with one of the 
perforated brass lamp-shades described in Chapter XIII. 
The stand is made in four pieces (A, B, C, and D, Fig. 
146). After cutting these to the dimensions given, and 



EASILY MADE FURNITURE 



T31 



beveling pieces B and C as shown, bore a f-inch hole 
through the center of each. As the hole through A will 
be too long for your bit, bore it halfway through from 
each end, being careful to bore perfectly straight so the 
holes will meet at 
the center. Also 
bore a hole of the 
same diameter 
through the center deta. us of 

'Separable 

of one side of base 





Plan of 
Octagonal Cap 



Plug 



piece C, as shown, 
to meet the vertical 
hole. These holes 
are made for the 
electric wires to run 
through. 

The Socket for the 
lamp is a S^iap- 
switch Wall Recep- 
tacle, and may be 
purchased together 



fM"', 




Details 

OF "KEY 
RECEPTACLE' 



Fig. 146. — Details of Electric Lamp shown in 
Fig. 142. 



with a Separable Plug and 10 feet of d^^op-cord for 65 
or 70 cents at any store where electrical goods are sold. 
The detail drawings show the different parts of the 
receptacle and plug, and the connections can safely be 
made by any boy, for the whole thing is wired up, first, 
without any connection with live wires, then the upper 
part of the plug is screwed into a lamp socket in the 



132 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



same way that the plug of any lamp or electrical appliance 
is attached, and the lower portion is snapped into it. 

The Wiring Operation is a very simple one. First un- 
twist the ends of the wires as shown, and scrape off the 



/•DRAW'NG BOARD TOP (31' X4 2") 



1 



'—FRONT RAIL 



-3'.5" 



yL 



Back- RAIL /-Shelp 



•FRONT- ELEVATION 



-J ^tNC 



L 


1ST OF MATERIAL 


'lECES 


DIMENSIONS - 


PARTS 




PRAWI1-JG-B0ARD5<>«' 


TOP 


4 


I'/g-X |3/4- X2--3'/4- 


LEGS 


2 


.. X - X 22 '/2' 


END RAILS 


2 


•3/,6'X3y.- x2'-5- 


■• APRONS 


1 


1 VS'X 1 V^" X 2'-ll'A' 


FftONTRAK 


1 


. X .. X 


BACK • 


1 


•V,6-x53/4-X3'-5'' 


BACK 


P 


.. X7VVX2H,3/. 


5HELF 



■Side ELEVATION' 



-t4.- 



Back-j 

il 



,drawiivg-board Secured to framc- 

I AT each CORNERWITH a 2-inch HOOK, 



— 31 



^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^\^^^Y^^^^^^^>'^^ 



END APRON 



-|--7r--f-'f— 



CROSS-SECTION ""■ 



P 

lie!/ 



1. 1 



I I 
I I 



Fig. 147. — Details of Drafting Table shown opposite page 86. 



rubber insulation with a knife until the copper wire is 
bared ; also scrape the copper until it is bright and clean. 
Then separate the bushing, shell, and socket of the recep- 
tacle as shown, slip the wires through the holes in the 
porcelain base, wrap their ends around the binding-screw s^ 



EASILY MADE FURNITURE 133 

and tighten the screws to hold them in place. Next run 
the other end of the wire through the top of the lamp- 
stand and work it out through the hole in the side of the 
base piece, then screw the base of the socket to D and 
put the shell and bushing back in place. The other end 
of the drop-cord should be connected to the binding- 
screws of the lower part of the plug. 

The holder required to support the lamp-shade is 
shown in Fig. 289, page 215. 

Opposite page 86 is shown a view of 

A Drafting Table the author has used in his home work- 
room for a number of years. Probably not many of you 
boys will do enough drafting to require such a table for 
the purpose, but it also makes a splendid desk table, and 
for this reason working details for its construction are 
given in Fig. 147. The legs, aprons, back, rails, and 
lower shelf are screwed together, no mortising entering 
into the table's construction. A drawing-board was used 
for the top of the table, and this is held securely in place, 
as shown, by means of hooks and screw-eyes. A large 
drawing-board can be purchased as cheaply as you can 
have one made, and it will be built up of well-seasoned 
material and be properly cleated so that it will not warp 
out of shape or split. If you want to make 

A Desk Table, dowel and glue together the top boards 
(see Dowel-joint, page 68), or, better still, have this 
work done at a mill if there is one near by. It will 
not cost much, and you will save a good deal of time by 



134 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

SO doing. Of course, the desk table may be used 
for drafting also, as a drawing-board can be laid upon 
the table top. 

The Electric Fixture shown over the author s table in 
the photograph opposite page 86 was made out of a piece 
of brass tubing from an old gas-lamp, fastened to the 
end of a piece of tubing from an extension curtain-rod. 
Use your ingenuity and construct a similar fixture for 
your table, if there is electric light in your house. 




m^a 



CHAPTER VII 



HANDY CONTRIVANCES 
FOR THE HOUSE 




Modern inventions are doing much to lighten the 
work of the housekeeper, and the extensive advertising 
of numerous labor-saving devices now being carried on 
in the various newspapers and maagazines is awakening 
a general interest in all sorts of household conveniences. 
The fact that women are adding these articles to their 
working equipment more and more, as they begin to re- 
alize the time and labor which may be saved by their 
use, should be enough to suggest to you energetic boys 
who have an eye for business that there is a splendid op- 
portunity to earn money outside of school hours, by tak- 
ing advantage of the publicity that is being given to 
these household contrivances and manufacturing a line 
of articles of your own to sell. Of course, you can hardly 
expect to have vacuum cleaners and electric flatirons, 
toasters, percolators, and other such conveniences, but 
there are many of the simpler things which you can con- 
struct, especially those made out of wood, which will be 
just as good as those sold in the stores. 

As a line of samples could not be carried around very 

135 



136 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

easily, unless you built a wagon especially for the pur- 
pose, and as a prospective customer would naturally wish 
to see what an article is like, the best method of showing 
your line of goods to those who cannot conveniently 
come to your house would be to take some photographs 
of them, or, if you haven't a camera, to make drawings 
from the objects and prepare blueprints from these as 
described in Chapter V. 

The articles shown upon the following pages will give 
you a variety of good ideas to start with, and you will 
probably get suggestions from your mother and her 
friends for things which they have found very handy ; by 
adding the latter to your list you can make it more com- 
plete. You will also find that one idea often suggests 
another. 

The ease with which 

A Fireless Cooker may be constructed, together with 
the fact that the demand for them is growing greater 
every day, makes this a good article to begin work upon. 

This kitchen convenience is claimed to have originated 
in Norway, where it has been in common use for a great 
many years, but over there it is generally known as a 
hay-stove from the fact that hay is used around the uten- 
sils for packing. Its popularity is due to a number of 
advantages which it possesses over the cook-stove method 
of cooking. It is only necessary to place the food over 
a fire long enough to start it cooking before putting it 
into the cooker, which not only makes a big saving in 



HANDY CONTRIVANCES FOR THE HOUSE 



137 



the gas-bill, if gas is used for fuel, but also results In a 
cooler kitchen — which is appreciable in the summer 
time. The insulation around the receptacles keeps the 
cooking odors from getting out, and outside dust from 
getting in, and from the time the food is placed in the 







Fig. 152. 




Fig. 148. — The Cooker Complete. FiG. 150. — Cross-section. 

Figs. 148-152. — Details of Fireless Cooker. 

cooker no further attention is required until it is ready 
to be taken out and served. These are pointers for you 
to talk up to prospective customers. 

Figure 148 shows a fireless cooker with two recep- 
tacles. A well-made packing-box with tight joints can 



138 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

be converted into a cooker, but as the insulation around 
the receptacles must be as nearly perfect as it is possible 
to make it, such a box must have its boards driven to- 
gether with tight joints. If you make the box, and that is 
the better way, buy matched boards out of which to con- 
struct it. Figure 149 shows a plan of the box with the 
cover opened, and Fig. 150 a cross-section. These two 
working-drawings have the dimensions of the cooker 
marked upon them, but the sizes need not be adhered to 
so long as you allow for the same amount of insulation 
around the receptacles as is shown. 

The box should first be lined, and for this purpose 
newspapers are good as anything. Tack a couple of 
layers of the paper around the sides and to the bottom, 
and over these paste half a dozen thicknesses. The first 
sheets form a foundation to paste to; the other sheets 
cover the breaks made in the paper by the tacks and 
make the insulation continuous. Batten together the 
cover boards upon the inside as shown, hinge the cover 
to the back of the box, and provide it with a couple of 
hooks to hold it down tight, and a check-chain to keep it 
from opening back too far. Fasten four casters to the 
bottom of the box so that it can be moved about easily, 
and a pair of trunk handles to the ends to make it easy 
to lift. 

The receptacles are shown in Figs. 150 and 151. Two 
tin pails or porcelain-lined pails of the sizes shown 
make the best kind of receptacles, and a kettle small 



HANDY CONTRIVANCES FOR THE HOUSE 139 

enough to fit into the larger pail provides a good inner 
receptacle. Buy two pot covers to fit the large pails 
(Fig. 151). The kettle will hold cereals and all foods 
for steaming, and when this is used, the outer pail must be 
filled with hot water to within about i inch of the rim of 
the kettle. Shallow pans of the proper diameter to fit 
in the tops of the pails may be provided for smaller 
receptacles. Large quantities of food may be placed 
directly in one of the pails, but it is essential to fill as 
much of the receptacle as possible, because waste space 
will draw away the heat from the food. This is where 
the advantage comes in of using the kettle or pans when 
cooking small quantities of food, for the outer pail may 
be filled with boiling water. Furnish your customers 
with these instructions. 

Boards A,B, C, and D (Fig. 149) set even with the 
brims of the pails and conceal the packing. Locate the 
brims of the pails on these boards, in the positions shown, 
and saw out the openings with a small saw. Nail cleats 
along the two sides of the box to nail the ends of the 
boards to, at the proper height for the larger pail, which 
must be set 2 inches above the bottom of the box. 

Procure excelsior for packing and dampen it with 
water to make it pack well. Place enough of the excel- 
sior in the bottom of the box to make it of the right 
height for the larger pail to set upon, and then put in 
enough more to obtain the proper level for the smaller 
pail ; pack in this excelsior as tight as you can. The 



I40 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

openings in the boards will guide you in setting the pails 
in the right positions. Fill up the balance of the space 
around the pails to the level of the cover boards with 
excelsior, and press it down so as to make it as compact 
as possible. Allow the excelsior to become thoroughly 
dry before nailing on tjie cover boards. The pails will 
draw out of the exceislir easilyp^s-'i?heir ?sides .taper. 

Make a cushion similar to that shown in Fig. 152 to 
fill the space between the top of the pails and the box 
cover. This should be made in two sections, joined to- 
gether across the top so one will fold over the other as 
shown, to make it possible to get at one receptacle with- 
out uncovering both. Stuff the cushion with excelsior, 
and make it thick enough so the cover will press it down 
upon the pail covers. 

You boys probably will be interested to know that 
The United States Army has tested the fireless cooker 
as a means of preparing rations while the troops are on 
the march, and that results have been so satisfactory 
that, undoubtedly, it will be adopted for such service. 
The cookers used in the test were made upon a large 
scale, were packed with the meat, beans, cereal, or other 
food, at breakfast time, then carted along with the other 
camp equipment, and when opened at the end of the 
day's march, supplied a steaming hot m.eal to the hungry 
troopers without delay — an improvement, certainly, over 
the method of awaiting the setting up of stoves, kindling 
of fires, and cooking of food. 



HANDY CONTRIVANCES FOR THE HOUSE 



141 



A Pot-cover Rack such as shown in Fig. 153 provides 
the most satisfactory way of keeping these covers, as the 
one desired is always 
within convenient reach 
— which is never the 
case when they are piled 
up on a shelf or in a 
drawer. 

Figure 154 shows the 
pattern for the side 
pieces of the rack. 
Space the slots as 
shown, then cut along 
the side lines of each slot 
with a saw and remove 
the wood with a chisel. 
Notch the back edses as 




Fig. 153.— Pot- 
cover Rack. 



Fig. 154. — Pattern 
for Side Pieces. 



shown, and cut the two connecting cross-pieces 8 inches 

long to fit in these 
notches. Nail or screw 
the cross-pieces in 
place, and bore a couple 
of holes throuo'h the 
upper one so the rack 
may be hung up on 
nails in the pantry. 
The Bottle-rack shown in Fig. 155 is a contrivance 

which your mother will appreciate, as it will hold all 




Fig. 155. — Pantry Shelf Bottle-rack. 



142 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



of her bottles of extracts, catsup, Worcestershire sauce, 
olive oil, etc., and prevent one bottle from knocking over 
several others when lifted out from behind them. 

The rack is made out of a piece of board measuring 9 
inches wide and 15 inches long, and the holes for the 
bottles are laid out and cut as shown in Fig. 156. After 
cutting the board and planing it up smooth and true, lay 
off along the edges the measurements given for the cen- 
ters of the holes and square Hues across the board at 
these points. The centers will be at the intersections 
of the lines. For the two rows of large holes describe 
circles 2J inches in diameter, and for the row of slots 

describe a circle i inch 
in diameter each side of 
the vertical center-lines, 
with a center ^ inch 
away from the lines, as 
shown. 

Cutting Large Holes. 
Unless you have an ex- 
pansive-bit (Fig. 24, 
page 21), which can 
be set to the proper 
radius, you will have to bore a number of small holes in- 
side of the large circles and then finish the cutting with 
a chisel. In the first row of holes on the diagram (Fig. 
156), A shows the first step — describing the circle; B the 
second step — boring a ring of holes inside of the circle; 




Fig. 156. — Plan of Bottle-rack. 
(Showing the four steps in cutting holes larger than 
your largest auger-bit will bore, and in cutting slots.) 



HANDY CONTRIVANCES FOR THE HOUSE 143 

C the third step — spUtting out the wood between the 
holes; and D the fourth step — trimming up the hole to 
the circle with a chisel. The diagram also shows the 
four steps required to cut the slots. E shows the centers 
marked off each side of the center lines, F the two 
I -inch holes bored at these centers, G how the wood be- 
tween the holes is split out, and H how the slot is finally 
trimmed up. The preparation of this board will give you 
good practice in handling the bit and brace and the 
chisel. Place the board in the vise for boring the holes, 
and bore only until the screw point comes through the 
opposite side, then turn the board over and bore through 
the rest of the way from that side. This is to prevent 
the wood around the hole from chipping off, which it 
would do if the holes were bored entirely through from 
one side. Be careful to hold the brace exactly verti- 
cal while boring. A |-inch or ^-inch chisel should be 
used for trimming the holes, and a half-round wood-file 
(Fig. 33, page 25) and sandpaper will be a great help in 
smoothing them. 

Nail a cleat to the under face of each end of the board 
as shown in Fig. 155, and the rack will be completed. 

The Flat-iron Rest is another convenience which a 
housekeeper will be glad to have, as it is much handier 
than an inverted pie-plate or folded newspaper to set an 
iron upon, and the sole of the iron may be cleaned by 
rubbing it on the piece of emery-paper fastened to one 
half of the board. This is shown in Fig. 157. 



144 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



Cut the board about 8 by 12 inches in size, tack a 
piece of tin (a piece from a tomato can will do) over the 

half which is to hold 
the iron, and a piece of 
No. o sandpaper over 
the other half, and then 
tack some narrow 
wooden strips around 
the edge of the tin for 
a rim to prevent the 
iron from sliding off. 
Screw a couple of screw-eyes into one end of the board 
by which to hang it up. 




Fig. 157. — Flat-iron Rest. 




Fig. 159. — Pattern for Side Pieces 




Flat-iron Rack. 



The Flat-iron Rack (Fig. 158) is easy to make. Lay 
out the end pieces to the dimensions given on the pat- 
tern (Fig. 159), with the top and bottom beveled and the 



HANDY CONTRIVANCES FOR THE HOUSE 



145 



back edge notched as shown ; then, after cutting these, 
prepare three back strips 22 inches long and to fit the 
notches, and nail them in place. Cut the two shelves 
4^ inches wide by the proper length to fit between the 
end pieces, and fasten them to the end pieces and to the 
back strips so the bottoms of the shelves and strips are 
flush. Bore a couple 

of holes through the ]''"i'::i£ zi '^ 1 

upper back strips and fj^j^f A TZ^^Z^^ 

furnish your customers 
with two . screw-hooks 
with which to hang the 
rack to a wall. 

Figure 160 shows a 
good scheme for 

A Sleeve-board, and 
Fig. 161 patterns for 
making it. Prepare the 
two pieces A and B as 
shown in Fig. 161, bore 
the |-inch holes where 
indicated, and cut four dowels 5 inches long to fit in 
them. Before connecting A and B, round off their 
edges with a plane. Fasten the dowels in the holes 
by means of finishing-nails driven through the edges 
of A and B. The cloth covering on A is pinned on 
in the same way that the covering of any ironing- 
board is put on, but this is never provided with sleeve- 




FiG. 160. 

Fig. 160. — Sleeve-board. 

Fig. 161. — Patterns for Pieces A and B. 



146 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



boards, so you need not furnish it ' with the boards 
you make to sell. 

The Knife-box shown in Fig. 162 has a bottom piece 8 

inches wide and 1 5 inches long, two side pieces 2 J inches 

u e- *J wide and i"; inches 

\ ^" 



ENDS 



Zi 



Fig. 163. 




Fig. 162. 

Fig. 162. 
Fig. 163. 



Knife-box. 
Pattern for Ends. 



long, two end pieces 
the shape and size 
shown in Fig. 163, 
and a center partition 
3 inches high by the 
inside length of the 
box. Bevel the top 
and bottom edges of 
the side pieces enough to make them square with the 
bottom and end pieces. Cut the slot shown in the center 
partition, to form the handle, by boring a J-inch hole 2 
inches each side of the center of the piece and then cut- 
ting out the wood between the holes with a chisel, in the 
same way as that described on page 142 for cutting the 
slots in the Bottle-rack, Before fastening the partition 
between the end pieces, tack a piece of felt over the 
bottom of the inside of the box. 

A Scrub-pail Platform will be appreciated by any woman 
who has experienced the tiresome work of lifting the 
pail every few minutes while scrubbing, to set it in a 
different spot, as it is mounted upon casters so that it may 
easily be pushed along on the floor. Figure 164 shows 
the completed platform, and Fig. 165 a view of the under 



HANDY CONTRIVANCES FOR THE HOUSE 



H7 



side. You will see that this platform can be made very 
quickly as it consists of only a board a trifle larger each 
way than the diameter 
of the bottom of the 
pail, with strips nailed 
around its edges to keep 
the pail from slipping 
off and a caster screwed 




to each of the four Fig. 164. — Scmb- 

pail Platform. 



Fig. 165. — Bottom 
View of Platform. 



corners. 

A Towel-roller is a handy arrangement for holding a 
kitchen hand-towel, and one similar to that shown in 
Fig. 166 and finished to match the woodwork of the 



Fig. 168. 



Fig. 167. 



CUTSLOTSLIKE THIS IN End PIECES) 
ORUSE- WINDOW-SHADE 
SOCKETS LI KETHESE-, 




Fig. 166. 

Fig. 166. — Towel-roller. 

Fig. 167. — Section showing Slotted End Piece. 

Fig. 168. — Broom-handle Roller showing Pivot in End. 

kitchen can be screwed to the face of one of the doors. 
Cut the back board 3|- inches wide and 24 inches long, 
bevel its edges, and bore a couple of holes in the positions 
shown through which to screw it to the door. Cut the 



148 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



end pieces 2^ inches square, and round the ends as shown 
(Fig. 167), then nail them to the back board f inch from 
the ends. Procure a broom-handle and cut a piece from 
the lower or straight portion for the roller, and drive a 
piece of a 20-penny nail into the exact center of each 
end for pivots (Fig. 168). Cut a slot from the top edge 
of each end piece down to its center for the roller pivots 
to turn in (Fig. 167), or buy a pair of window-shade 

sockets (Fig. 167) and screw 
them to the end pieces. 

For cutting and chipping ice, 
an ice-pick and an ice-chisel 
should be kept within easy 
reach of the refrigerator, and 
An Ice-pick and Ice-chisel 
Rack screwed to the side of 
Fig. 1 69. -Ice-pick and Ice-chisel the refrigerator will keep these 
^^^^- tools within easy reach (Fig. 

169). Make this out of a short block of wood, bore 
a hole for the pick, and cut a groove in the back edge 
large enough for the chisel. 

Household conveniences such as have been described 
in this chapter may be made out of pine, cypress, white- 
wood, basswood, oak, and ash, and they may be painted, 
stained, shellacked, or varnished, according to the choice 
of finish your mother, neighbors, or other customers 
make. For kitchen, pantry, or laundry use, there is no 
finish better than shellac, or shellac and varnish. 






CHAPTER VIII 

A BOY'S ROOM IN AN AXJIC 



The attic of the average house presents the best pos- 
sible conditions for fitting up a boy's room, for generally it 
is a large unfinished space where a boy will have an 
excellent opportunity to partition off as large a room as 
he may require, and furnish it to suit his own taste with 
home-made furniture and all of his knickknack keepsakes. 
Usually an attic is the storage place for old trunks, anti- 
quated furniture, and household truck, and this could very 
easily be packed together in such a way that a large 
enough space for a room would remain at one end. 
Figures 170 and 171 show how a room can be made in the 
attic of a house having a gable roof, but as one attic dif- 
fers from another just as the house differs from another 
in plan and design, the suggestions will have to be modi- 
fied to suit the conditions of your attic. Take a run up 
to the top of your house, boys, and look things over ; then 
you can tell better just what you can do. 

A Dividing Partition to separate the room from the rest 
of the attic should be built, first, and Fig. 172 shows the 
proper method of erecting the studs. If the attic walls 

149 




>5o 




o 
a. 
a, 
O 



151 



152 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



are unfinished and of frame construction, as shown in 
Fig. 170, it will look best to space the partition studs 
directly opposite the wall studs and nail the boarding 
on the outside face (Fig. 171); but they may be spaced 
3 feet apart, to save lumber, and yet be close enough to 
support the boards. 




Fig. 172. — Studding for Dividing Partition. 

Fig. 173. — Toe-nail the End of the Studs in this Way. 

Fig. 174. — View of Outside of Entrance Door. 

Fig. 175. — Plan showing Construction of Door Opening. 

If you run the partition in the same direction as the 
roof rafters, locate it so the upper end of the studs may 
be spiked to the rafters (Fig. 172) ; if the other way, nail 



A BOY'S ROOM IN AN ATTIC 153 

a strip across the bottoms of the rafters to spike your 
studs to. The illustrations show the partition running 
in the direction of the rafters, so I shall tell you how to 
erect it in this way. To get the bottom of the studs in 
a line, run 

A Plumb-line from a nail driven into the face of one 
of the two rafters, i inch or so above the floor, to a nail 
driven into the face of the opposite rafter, as in Fig. 172. 
Any strong cord may be used for this line. The studs 
should also h^ plumbed vc^ and down, as the rafters may 
not run exactly straight, and for this purpose make 

A Plumb-board. This consists of a 4-inch board 5 or 6 
feet long whose edges have been planed up straight and 
true, with a "V" notch cut in the center of one end and 
a cord with a weight attached tied to a nail driven into 
the center of the opposite end. By placing this board 
against the side of a stud, you can tell whether or not it 
is plumb by the position of the cord, which will hang ex- 
actly in the center of the notch when the stud is plumb. 
(This home-made plumb-board is illustrated on page 13 
of " The Boy Craftsman.") 

If you locate the door in the center of the partition, 
first set the two Jamb studs 3 feet apart (Fig. 172) and 
toe-nail them to the floor and to the rafters (Fig. 173), 
then spike a cross-piece between these studs, 6 feet 9 
inches above the floor, to form the head of the door, and 
fasten another horizontal piece about 20 inches above it 
for the head of the transom. Next, spike the end studs 



154 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

in position, and nail on the temporary diagonal braces 
shown in the illustration to keep the studding plumb until 
the boarding has been nailed on. Space the intermediate 
studs at the proper distances apart, and, as soon as each 
piece is made plumb, tack the brace to it to hold it in 
position until you spike the ends in place. 

It is not necessary to have new lumber for this parti- 
tion. Boards and studs can usually be bought very 
cheaply wherever a frame building is being wrecked, and 
this second-hand stuff and box boards will do very well, for 
any roughness can be concealed. Studs may be spliced 
with fish-plates when too short (see Fished-splice, on 
page 58). 

If the Roof runs down to the Floor along the sides of 
the room, a partition should be built along each side at a 
point where the roof is 3 feet above the floor, so the space 
behind these partitions may be utilized for 

Lockers, an addition to a boy's room which cannot very 
well be dispensed with. These partitions are made as 
shown in Figs. 176 and 177. Short studs are fitted be- 
tween the floor and rafters at about every other rafter, a 
i-by-2-inch strip is nailed across the studding near the 
top and another near the bottom, the studs being notched 
so the strips will set flush with their face, as shown in 
Fig. 177, and then burlap, denim, or dark-colored muslin 
is tacked to these strips. The strips and covering should 
be carried around the other two walls of the room, also, 
to form a similar 



A BOY'S ROOM IN AN ATTIC 



155 



Wainscoting. When the cloth has been tacked on, 
nail a 6-inch board around the bottom and another board 
of the same width around the top, and cut a board to fit 
between the rafters to form a shelf or cap over the wain- 
scoting (Fig. 177). 




Fig. 176. 
Fig. 176. — How the Wainscoting is put up. 
Fig. 177. — Cross-section of Completed Wainscoting. 

A Large Clothes Closet should be built in one corner of 
the room as shown in Figs. 171 and 178, and the inside 
should be fitted up with shelves, hooks, and coat and 
trousers hangers. A piece of broom-handle or curtain- 
pole may be fastened across the rafters upon which to 
hook coat hangers, hooks may be made out of spools 
(Fig. 179), and the 

Trousers Hangers (Fig. 180) consist of two pieces of 
wood about 8 inches long, with one face of each beveled 
{A and B, Fig. 180), and a wooden button (C, Fig. 180). 



156 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



Screw block B to the under side of a shelf, place block A 
parallel to it so the bevels will be about \ inch apart, and 

screw one end to the 
shelf; then screw but- 
ton C in the proper 
position so when 
the ends of a pair of 
trousers are placed 
between the beveled 
sides of A and B, 
it can be turned 
against strip ^ as a 
lock to hold the two 
strips together. 

The Doors should 
be made of boards 
battened together as 




P^IG. 178. 

Fig. 178. — Clothes Closet, with Wall broken to 

show Inside. 
Fig. 179. — Spool Hooks. 
Fig. 180. — Details of Trousers Hangers. 



shown in Figs. 171 and 178. To make a nicely finished 
entrance to the room, conceal the studding around the 
doorway withy^;;^^ and head boards, and nail a board trim 
around the opening as shown in Figs. 1 7 1 and 1 74. In the 
plan of the door jamb (Fig. 1 75), the stud on one side of the 
opening is shown at A, the finished y<3;w<5 board at B, and 
the inside and outside casings or trim at C; the door is 
shown hinged in place at D, and the stop strip shown at E 
is nailed around the inside of the opening for the door to 
strike against. Hinge the entrance door and the locker 
doors on to the casings with strap-hinges (Fig. 171). 



A BOY'S ROOM IN AN ATTIC 



157 



The Entrance-door Transom is made of boards battened 
together (Fig. 171) and is hinged at the top to the trim. 
It is operated by means of a cord which is run from a 
screw-eye in the bottom of the transom up over a small pul- 
ley in the ceiling, and from that down to a nail in the wall. 

Figure 181 shows the details for 

An Old-fashioned Cabin Latch which will do very well 
for the doors. By looking at Fig. 171, you will see that 
the latch A (Fig. 181) is 
screwed at one end to the 
door, the guard B is screwed 
in place over A, and the 
calck C is set into the jamb 
board. The entrance door 
should have a latch-string 
with which to open it from 
the outside (Figs. 174 and 
181) and also a wooden button {D, Fig. 181) with which 
to lock it on the inside. Make a handle for the outside 
of the door similar to guard B (Figs. 174 and 181). 

Few unfinished attics are provided with heat, but 
probably you can obtain 

An Oil Heater or Stove for your room. For a coal stove 
you will have to run a pipe through the partition and 
over to the chimney, and if there is no opening into the 
chimney flue, it will be necessary to get a mason to cut 
one and set a thimble into it to receive the end of the 
pipe; but the latter work will not cost much. 




Fig. 181. — Details of Door Latch, 
Guard, Catch, and Button. 



158 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



If there isn't any running water in the attic, make 

A Wash-stand in a corner, as shown in Fig. 171, to 
hold a wash-bowl and pitcher. Fasten 

A Broom-handle Towel-rack above the wash-stand to 
the rafters, as shown. 

Get a common barn lantern for 

Lighting your Room, if neither gas or electricity has 
been installed in the attic, and construct 

A Home-made Hanging Lamp out of it as shown in Fig. 
1 70. Besides the lantern, you will need a harness snapy 





Barn lantern 



HARNESS Snap Screw-Pulley 



6RICK COUNTERBALANCE 



Fig. 182. — These things are required for the Home-made Hanging Lamp. 

a screw-pulley y a |-inch screw-eye ^ some clothes-line and 
cord, and a brick (Fig. 182). Screw the pulley into 
the ceiling in about the center of the room, then run 
the clothes-line over the pulley and down the face 
of a rafter ; screw the screw-eye into the rafter just 
above the wainscot cap (Figs. 176 and 177), slip the 
clothes-line through this eye and then run it through a 
hole bored through the wainscot cap, just below, and 
tie the brick to the end with cord for a counterbalance 
(Fig. 177); fasten the harness snap to the other end of 
the clothes-line and adjust it so that the lantern, whose 



A BOY'S ROOM IN AN ATTIC 159 

handle is snapped into it, will pull down to within easy 
reach of the floor. The weight of the brick must be 
just enough to counterbalance the lantern ; if too heavy, 
break off a piece. Figure 170 shows the lamp pushed 
up out of the way. 

Every one of you will have to suit your own taste in 

Furnishing the Room, so the illustrations will serve 
merely as suggestions for the arrangement of pictures, 
posters, pennants, fencing foils, tennis rackets, and other 
things. 

Home-made Picture-frames can be made out of laths 
very easily ; butt the ends of the laths together instead 
of mitering them and stain the wood in the rough instead 
of planing it off smooth. 

The Furniture may be very simple, like the box furni- 
ture shown in the following chapter, or some of the 
designs shown in Chapter VI may be carried out if you 
wish to spend more time and labor upon it. 

You will probably wish to make 

A Pirate Chest such as is shown in Fig. 171 and 

A Window Seat as shown in Fig. 170. Ask your 
mother to make a few sofa pillows for the seat. 

Some of you Boys will not have an Attic in which to 
make a room, but those of you who have not will probably 
find ideas among these suggestions that can be adapted to 
your present room, whatever part of the house that may be 
in. If you already have an attic room, you will likely see 
some ways in which to improve upon its furnishings. 




m^a 



CHAPTER IX 



BOX AND BARREL 
FURNITURE 




Grocery boxes, packing-cases, crates, barrels, kegs, 
and much of the " truck " to be found in the attic, base- 
ment, and wood shed suggest innumerable possibilities 
for making things, and the fact that these materials can 
be utilized for many purposes with little or no expense 
makes them especially well suited to boys' work. 

Furniture made from the above materials is naturally 
somewhat rough, compared with what can be produced 
with better wood, and some of it will appear clumsy, but 
no boy will object to this "home-made" appearance on 
furniture for his own room, if it will serve his purpose — 
in fact, he will generally prefer something like this in 
order that his room may be "different" from the other 
rooms of the house. 

The following pages show a number of pieces of fur- 
niture which are easy to make, and other ideas will prob- 
ably suggest themselves while you are working upon 
these. 

The Writing-desk shown in Fig. 183 is fitted around 
the wall studding, which would be exposed in your room 

160 



BOX AND BARREL FURNITURE 



i6i 



if it were in the unfinished attic of a frame house ; but 
it also may be fastened upon a plastered wall by support- 
ing it upon brackets nailed to the wall, or by hanging it 
with chains from hooks screwed into the wall. 

Procure a box about 30 inches long, 14 inches wide, 
and 16 inches deep for the body of the desk. The top 




Fig. 183. 



The Writing-desk. 



Fig. 183. 

Fig. 184. —Section through Writing-desk. 

Fig. 185. — A Desk or Cupboard Mortise-lock and Escutcheon for Key-hole. 

Figs. 186-187. — How to set the Lock into the Drop-leaf of the Desk. 

Fig. 188. — Cigar Box for Desk Drawers. 

of this will form the front of the desk, and then the 
bottom will be the back, but in case the desk is fitted 
around the studs, the bottom boards should be removed, 



i62 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

as a back will be unnecessary. Eigure 184 shows a good 
shape for bracket supports for the desk; after nailing 
these in place at the proper height, fasten the box to 
their tops. Make the drop-leaf for the front of the desk 
out of I -inch boards and batten them together with four 
strips (y4, Fig. 183). Cut the two end battens a little 
shorter than the width of the leaf, but make the two 
center ones long enough to project about 10 inches, as 
in Fig. 184, so they will strike the bottom of the box and 
prevent the leaf from dropping further when opened to 
the position shown by the dotted lines. Hinge the leaf 
in place as shown in Fig. 183. If you want a lock for 
the desk, go to a hardware store and buy a desk or 
cupboard mortise-lock (Fig. 185) ; this will cost 15 cents. 
Cut a mortise in the edge of the leaf of the proper size 
to receive the lock (Fig. 186), locate and cut the keyhole, 
and then screw the lock in place and fasten the escutcheon 
(Fig. 185) over the keyhole. A slot must be cut in the 
lower face of the desk top for a pocket for the lock bolt to 
turn into, and in order to make it possible to cut this 
pocket, the front board of the top must be removed and 
a board about i inch wider nailed on in its place; this 
will make a projection over the drop-leaf as shown in 
Fig. 187. 

Very thin wood should be used with which to parti- 
tion off ih^ pigeon-holes, and pieces of cigar boxes will do 
nicely. Make the drawer openings of the right size so 
cigar boxes may be used for drawers (Figs. 183, 184, and 



BOX AND BARREL FURNITURE 



163 



188), and drive brass rug tacks into the ends of the boxes 
for knobs. 

To give the drop-leaf a better writing surface, pad it 
with a few sheets of newspaper and then cover the paper 
with a piece of white oil-cloth. Figure 183 shows how a 
foot-rest may be fastened to the wall, below the desk. 

A Shelf for Books may be bracketed to the wall 10 or 
12 inches above the desk as shown in Fig. 183. 

It is generally an easy matter to find a broken 
chair, and you ought to be able to get a discarded 
piano-stool in your storeroom, from some neighbor, or 
at a second-hand store, as they are being replaced by 
the more modern 
piano bench, and hav- 
ing procured these 
two articles, you can 
make 

An Of&ce Chair such 
as is shown in Fig. 
189. Remove the 
chair legs, then set 
the seat and back 
upon the stool (Fig. 
190) and screw it to 
the top; countersink 
the screw-heads, fill 
in over the heads ^^^- T'~^'^ '^' "".'' ""^ ""^^ '/' ^^f 

are fastened upon a Piano-stool to lorm the 

with putty, refinish office Chair. 




Fig. 189. — The 
Office Chair. 



1 64 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



the chair to match the stool, and the office chair will 
be completed. 

Procure a fish keg for 

A Waste-basket, wash it out thoroughly, and paint it 
inside and outside. One of these kegs which has been 
used by the author for this purpose for a number of years 
is shown in the photograph opposite page 86. 

The Arm Rocker shown in Fig. 191 is easy to construct. 
The seat is made out of a box with the cover boards 

nailed on, and the back and arm 
strips are cut out of pieces of boxes 
or other boards. If you can find 
a pair of rockers from a broken 
chair, use them and you will be 
that much ahead ; if not, it is a 
simple matter to make a pair by 
laying a chair on its side upon a 
board, marking out around the 
rocker, then moving the chair over 
far enough to mark out the second 
rocker, and sawing out the pieces 
and smoothing them up. 
Figure 192 shows how the braces A should be nailed 
to the bottom of the box, and Fig. 193 how their ends 
should be cut to fit over the rockers. By looking at any 
rocking-chair you will see that the rear ends of the rock- 
ers are set several inches closer together than the front 
ends ; provide for this in preparing strips A, and be care- 




FiG. 191. — The Arm 
Rocker. 



BOX AND BARREL FURNITURE 



165 



ful to set both rockers the same distance in, so the chair 
will rock evenly. Screw the rockers to strips A as 
shown. 

The lengths of the strips for the back and arms will be 
determined by the size of the box used for the seat, but in 

,n r. nn H, 




u 



D D D 



Fig. 192. Fig. 193. Fig. 194. 

Fig. 192, — Chair overturned to show how the Rockers are Attached. 

Fig. 193. — Brace for the Rockers. 

Fig. 194. — How the Back is Constructed. 

Fig. 195. — Pattern for the Wide Arm. 

order that you may have an idea of the proper propor- 
tions, sizes will be given for a box 18 inches by 16 inches 
by 12 inches. The back should be constructed in one 
piece as shown in Fig. 194, and nailed to the box as in 
Fig. 192. Strips B are 2\ inches wide by 2 feet 9 inches 
long, strips C 2\ inches wide by 21 inches long, and 
strips D \\ inches wide by 2 feet long. After the back 
has been made and fastened to the box, cut the two side 
strips E (Fig. 192) i^ inches wide by 20 inches long, 
strips F to the same width by 10 inches long, and strips 



i66 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



G to the same width by i6 inches long. Fasten these 
strips to the box and to each other as shown in Figs. 

191 and 192, then 
cut the right arm 
H (Figs. 192 and 
195) 18 inches long 
by 3 inches wide 
at the narrow end 
and 8 inches at 
the wide end, and 
cut, the lefi-arm of 
the same length by 
3 inches wide. 
After nailing the 
arms in place, brace 
the right arm with 
the small triangular 
block / (Fig. 192). 
When you have completed your chair, give the meas- 
urements of the seat to your mother or sister, and ask her 
to make a cushion for it. 

Procure an apple or potato barrel for the base of 
The Barrel Table illustrated in Fig. 1 96. The table top 
(Fig. 197) should be about 30 inches square and made of 
three pieces of boards 10 inches wide. Cut the boards 
to the proper length and lay them upon the floor side by 
side. Place the barrel bottom end up upon the exact 
center of the square formed by the boards, then cut the 




Fig 196. 



Fig. 197. 
Fig. 196. — The Barrel Table. 
Fig. 197. — How the Table Top is Made. 
Fig. 198. — Cross-pieces in Open End of Barrel to 
which the Top is Built. 



A 



BOX AND BARREL FURNITURE 



167 



cross battens B of the right length and nail them to the 
boards close against the side of the barrel, fit the strips 
C between them close to the sides of the barrel, and cut 
the triangular corner blocks shown to fit between the 
strips and the barrel. Turn the barrel right side up 
again, nail two pieces of 2-by-4 in the open end as shown 
at A in Fig. 198, and nail the top to these cross-pieces. 

By covering the top with a piece of heavy wrapping- 
paper and then tacking a piece of 
table oilcloth over the top and 
edges, you will have a smoother 
table; any unevenness may be 
padded out with paper before the 
oilcloth is put on. 

Three boxes of exactly the same 
size, about 3 feet long, 12 inches 
wide, and 12 inches deep, are re- 
quired for 

The Chiffonier shown in Fig. 199. 
A dealer in shoes or dry goods will 
most likely have boxes of uniform 
size. 

Set the boxes on top of one another as in Fig. 200, and 
then fasten them together at the four corners with strips 
6 inches longer than the combined height of the boxes. 
Nail together the edges of the strips, first, then nail them 
to the boxes as shown in Fig. 199. The projecting ends 
of the strips will be the legs, so they must be of exactly 




Fig. 199. — The Chiffonier. 



i68 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



the same length or the chiffonier will not rest evenly upon 
the floor. Fit horizontal strips to the front and ends of 
the boxes, between the leg strips, to conceal the joints 
between the boxes (Fig. 199); cut these to the exact 
width of the front edges. Figure 201 is a view of part 
of the bottom of the chiffonier and shows the leg strips 
in place and how the lower portion of the chiffonier is 
finished off, by nailing a strip shaped similar to that 
shown in Fig. 202 across the front and a straight strip 
across the ends (see Fig. 199). 

Cut boards of the proper length to make a top with a 
projection of i inch over each end, and nail them to the 

Fig /-cut here 
203' «>-^ " 




Fig. 201. 



Fig. 200. 



Fig. 202. 
Fig. 200. — Three Boxes of exactly the Same Size are required for the Chif- 
fonier. 
Fig. 201. — View of Bottom of Chiffonier. 
Fig. 202. —Fit a Strip Uke this to the Front at the Bottom. 
Fig. 203. — Cut Spools in Halves for Knobs. 

Fig. 204. — Prepare two Pieces like this for the Mirror-frame Supports. 
Fig. 205. — Fasten a Strip like this in Front of the Mirror-frame Supports. 



BOX AND BARREL FURNITURE 169 

top box SO there will be the same projection over the front 
of the box. The drawers may be made out of boxes cut 
down to the proper size, or if you do not care to bother 
with doing this, you may hinge drop-leaves to the boxes 
in the same way that the wTiting-desk drop-leaf is put on 
(Fig. 183). Cut spools in halves for knobs (Fig. 203), and 
screw two of the halves to the face of each drawer or drop- 
leaf as shown in Fig. 199. 

A mirror 10 by 12 inches in size, set in a wooden frame, 
can be purchased for 50 or 60 cents. To fasten the 
frame to the chiffonier, cut two uprights 16 inches long, 
taper one edge of each as shown in Fig 204, bore a \- 
inch hole near the upper end as shown, and drive a nail 
through each hole into the exact center of each side edge 
of the mirror frame (Fig. 204). Nail or screw the lower 
ends of the uprights to the back of the top box so the 
mirror will be exactly in the center of the chiffonier top 
and about 3 inches above it. Shape a piece similar to 
that in Fig. 205, and fasten it below the mirror to the 
mirror-frame supports as shown in Fig. 199, and your 
chiffonier will be ready iox finishing. 

After making your box furniture either stain it with an 
oil stain or give it two coats of paint. 




It is not necessary to go to the basement or attic to 
fit up a home gymnasium, boys, unless you wish to make 
large pieces of apparatus, for you can easily equip your 
own room with chest-weighty chinni7ig-bar^ hitch-and-kick» 
dumb-bells, and Indian clubs. 

A Chest-weight, or " exercising machine," as some boys 
call it, is shown in Fig. 206, and Figs. 207, 208, and 209 

give the details for making 
it. Select a portion of a 
wall in your room where it 
will be most convenient to 

Fig. 207. — Screw the Cross-piece of use the weights, and if the 
Chest-weight to Wall Studs like this. . . . ii - • 

* wall IS frame, — that is, 

made of wood and plaster, — locate two of the studs 
(Fig. 207). Tap upon the plaster with a hammer until 
you find a portion that sounds solid, make a mark there, 
then measure 16 inches to the left or right of it, and the 
chances are you will find the second stud at that point, as 
studding is generally placed 16 inches from center to cen- 
ter. If the wall is brick, locate two of the vertical strips to 

170 





!i 


^STUD 




STUb-r- 1 










• a 




- 






.b 


A 






=?= 










< 






^ 


rr 


, 


w 




pt^ 






t3 




1 


(Ih 


H 


|Zi 


tH 




^ 


d 




tz; 


oo 


lO 




<1 


c^:( 


w 


6 






1— 1 






N 







GO t» 



HOME-MADE GYMNASIUM APPARATUS 



171 



which the laths are nailed. For cross-piece A (Figs. 207 
and 208) cut a i-inch piece of oak, pine, or white wood, 4 
inches wide and 20 inches long, plane it up and bevel its 




Two-pulley Scheme. FiG. 208. One-pulley Scheme. 

Fig, 208. — Two Schemes for Assembhng the Weights, Rope, and Pulleys of 

Chest-weight. 
Fig. 209. — Prepare a Pair of Bicycle Handle-bar Grips like this for Handles. 

four face edges. Locate holes a, b, c, and d, 2 inches 
from the ends, and bore them \ inch deep with a |-inch 
bit. Spike the board to the wall about on a line with 
your shoulders, using 20-penny nails and driving them 
through holes a, b, c, and d into the studs. Drive 
the heads below the surface of the wood with a nail-set, 



172 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

and fill holes b and d with chips of wood cut to fit over 
the spike heads (holes a and c will be concealed by strip 
B as is shown in Fig. 208). Cut cross-pieced 19 inches 
long by \\ inches wide, bevel its edges, and screw it to 
board A with round-head finishing-screws (Fig. 208). 

Procure two bricks of uniform size for weights, make 
a wooden bracket for each as shown in Fig. 208, and 
strap them to these brackets with a couple of skate, trunk, 
or shawl straps. Drive staples into the backs of the 
brackets at /, k, /, and m (Fig. 208), placing/ and k 
I inch to each side of the center and / and m directly 
under them. 

Purchase two enameled-iron awning pulleys at a hard- 
ware store, also get about 25 feet of sash-cord, or closely 
woven clothes-line, for lifting-li7ies and guide-ropes. 
Fasten the pulleys to cross-piece B with staples, i^ inches 
from the ends. The guide-ropes are fastened to screws 
e and f in board A and to g and h in the baseboard. 
These screws should be placed 2 inches apart, and 
should center on the pulleys on strip B. In attach- 
ing the ropes, first fasten them to screws e and f, then 
slip their lower ends through staples / and /, and k 
and m^ in the weight brackets, and tie them to ^screws g 
and h. You can make either a one-pulley scheme for 
lifting your weights as shown on the right of Fig. 208, or 
a two-pulley scheme as shown on the left of the illustra- 
tion. The latter way has the advantage of a longer rope, 
but costs a little more on account of the extra rope and 



HOME-MADE GYMNASIUM APPARATUS 173 

pulleys. In the first method the rope is attached to the 
bracket strap, then run through the pulley and tied to 
the handle, while in the latter it is tied to screw i on 
board A, run through a pulley, slipped over the bracket 
strap, and then slipped through the upper pulley and tied 
to the handle. 

The handles are made from bicycle handle-bar grips, 
which, if you haven't an old pair, may be purchased for 
10 or 15 cents. Glue a wooden plug in the open end of 
the grip (Fig. 209), then bore a hole through the center 
of it and punch another hole through the center of the 
tin cap on the other end of the grip. Run an 18-inch 
piece of heavy wire through the holes and bend it into 
the shape shown in the illustrations, with a hook through 
which to tie the lifting rope. Leave the bricks in their 
natural color, or stain them with oil paint, and either stain 
or varnish the woodwork if it is of oak, or paint, stain, 
or shellac it if it is of pine or whitewood. 

A Striking-bag with an elastic cord at each end can 
easily be fastened in a doorway by screwing a screw-eye 
in the head and another in the threshold, to which to tie 
the cords. The upper screw-eye maybe left in place and 
the lower one removed when you detach the bag. But 
for a bag with a single cord it is necessary to have a plat- 
form for it to strike against. You can put up 

A Striking-bag Platform in your room by making it 
detachable, as shown in Fig. 210, so that it may be re- 
moved arid put out of the way when not in use. 



174 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



Make the platform 3 feet square, battening together 
the boards with strips A, B, and C (Fig. 211), and 
screw hooks D and E into strip B. Cover the under 
side of this platform with oilcloth to make the sur- 
face smooth, first tacking several thicknesses of paper 
over the boards if there happens to be any uneven places. 

To the inside of your room door screw the piece of 
2-by-4 F (Fig. 212), 2 inches above your head, then 



Fig. 214. 





Fig. 211. Fig. 213. 

Fig. 211, — How to make the Striking-bag Platform. 

Fig. 2X2. — Attachment of Strips to form Groove for Platform; also Turn- 
buckles. 
Fig. 213. — Block out the Strips thus if the Door has Raised Panels. 
Fig. 214. — Details of the Swivel which holds the Bag Cord. 

leave a space wide enough for end A of the platform to 
fit in, and screw strip G to the door. If the door has 
raised panels (Fig. 210), block out strips F and G as 
shown in Fig. 213. Purchase two buck-saw turnbuckles 
at a hardware store, and fasten one end of each to the 
door trim with staples, at ZTand / (Fig. 212) ; put them 
just high enough so the lower ends will catch in hooks 
D and E (Fig. 211) when the platform is slipped between 



HOME-MADE GYMNASIUM APPARATUS 



175 




F and G. The platform is made solid by turning the 
turnbuckles. The swivel shown in Fig. 214 costs about 
50 cents. The plate J is fastened to the under side of 
the platform with screws, the bag cord is slipped through 
A' and knotted, and A" is screwed on toy. 

A Chinning-bar is very easily put up in a doorway 
(Fig. 215). A piece of a curtain-pole will do for the bar, 
and the socket-blocks for it to set 
in should be made as shown in 
Fig. 216. Cut the blocks 4 inches 
square and make the holes a little 
larger than the ends of the curtain- 
pole. Figure 217 shows how to 
cut the holes by first boring a ring 
of little holes and then cutting out 
the center and trimming up with 
a chisel 

B like that in A, then saw a piece Large Hole, 
out of the top. Screw the blocks to the door jambs 
about 3 inches below the door head. 

The Hitch-and-Kick (Fig. 218) is a piece of apparatus 
that will give you a chance to limber up your leg muscles 
by practicing the high kick. The plate (Fig. 219) may 
be an 0X6. pot cover or a cake-tin^ with three holes punched 
at A, B, and C Attach brass chains at these holes, join 
them at D, and at this point connect the end of a piece 
of chain 12 or 14 feet long. Fasten a small screw-pulley 
or a screw-eye in the ceiling (Fig. 218), slip the chain 



Fig. 216. 
Fig. 216. — Socket-blocks for 
the Chinning-bar. 

Make the hole in block fig. 217. — How to cut a 



176 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



through it, and bring the 
end down through a screw- 
eye and then to a hook 
which has been screwed 
into the door or window 
trim. You may have a 
long stick, graduated into 
feet and inches, with which 
to measure the heights of 
your kicks ; or you may tie 
a short piece of thread 
through one of the hnks of 
the chain, within a foot or. 
so of the loose end, and 
then lay off some measure- 
ments upon the door or 
window /r^;;^, in lead-pencil, 
in such a way that you can 
easily determine the height 

Fig. 218.— The Hitch-and-Kick will , , , , . , 

give you a Good Chance to Limber of the plate by notmg the po- 

up your Leg Muscles. sition of the threaded link. 

With the addition of a pair of 
dumb-bells, a pair of Indian clubs, and 
a wand made by splicing together two 
broom-handles, as shown at A, B, and C 
(Fig. 220), you will have a fairly well- Fig. 219 — How to 
equipped " gym," without sacrificing any "^tKictk'^e^ut" 
floor space of your room for apparatus. of an Old Pot Cover. 





HOME-MADE GYMNASIUM APPARATUS 



177 






B 



Fig. 220. — A Wand made of Two Broom-handles spliced together 
End to End. 

A Rack for your Dumb-bells, Indian Clubs, and Wand 

may be made like the one illustrated by Fig. 221. 
Board A is the same size 
as board A of the Chest- 
weight (Fig. 207) and is 
spiked to the studs in the 
same way, while board B 
is 2 inches shorter and 
2\ inches wide. Make the 
places for the bells, clubs, 
and wand to set in as shown 
in Fig. 222, cutting them 
as described for the Chin- 
ning-bar socket B (Fig. 
216). Screw strip A to 
strip B, 




Fig. 222. 
Plan showing 
how to cut 
the Sockets. 



Fig. 221. 
Rack for Dumb-bells, 
Indian Clubs, and 
Wand. 




Make your Christmas gifts, boys ; your own handi- 
craft will be better appreciated by your brothers and 
sisters, the older folks, and the friends and relatives you 
wish to remember than anything you can buy, and as 
the materials may be such as will cost little or nothing, 
you can save the greater part of the money you usually 
spend in Christmas shopping. Besides, by showing your 
work to friends it should be easy to secure orders for 
duplicate articles. 

Probably no material presents as many possibilities 
for making inexpensive and at the same time attractive 
articles as the white cedar wood from cigar boxes. You 
boys very likely know what handy receptacles these 
boxes are for stamps, coins, marbles, and the hundred 
and one other things which your pockets will not hold, 
but here are some ideas for making use of the boxes 
which you probably never thought of. 

The Material will cost you nothing, — except the nails, 
glue, and finish, — as empty cigar boxes may be procured 
at any cigar store or drug store. Pick out a good assort- 

178 




Fig. 223. 




Fig. 224, 



Fig. 223. An Express-Wago^^. 
Fig. 224. A Cart. 



CIGAR-BOX TOYS AND GIFTS 



179 



ment of shapes and sizes, place the boxes in a tub or 
wash-boiler of hot water and allow them to soak until 
the paper labels and bindings loosen, then, when this 
paper has been removed, bind the covers flat against the 
bottoms with cord to prevent them from warping, and 
put them in the sun or near a stove to dry. When the 
boxes are thoroughly dry, pry them apart, sort out the 
best pieces and remove the manufacturers' trade-marks 
with sandpaper (grade No. o). 

Brads | inch or J inch long should be used for nail- 
ing, and the heads should be set below the surface of the 
wood and the holes filled with putty colored to match 
the wood. 

Finish the work with two coats of boiled linseed-oil. 
The oil gives the wood a beautiful rich tone and brings 
out the markings of the grain. 

A scroll-saw, bracket-saw, coping-saw, or a very sharp 
jack-knife should be used where 

Cutting is necessary. Do not attempt to split the 
wood, as the grain is seldom straight, but lay it down 
upon a board and score it with a knife in the way in 
which you would score a piece of cardboard ; then break 
it along the scored line, or continue cutting until the 
piece is cut in two. If you use a saw, cut a little away 
from the outlines of the work and then trim up with 
a knife and sandpaper. 

The wagons, Jack-in-the-box, and doll furniture shown 
in this chapter were designed with the idea of saving as 



FRONT AXLE | REAR AXLE 



i8o HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

much cutting as possible, and you will see by the illus- 
trations that in many cases the boxes are not altered. 

The Express-wagon shown in Fig. 223 is made out of 
a long flat box. Cut down the sides at the front and 
construct a seat on top of the sides as shown in Fig. 
227. Cut the front w^heels about 2 J inches in diameter 
and the rear wheels about 2| inches in diameter. If 
you haven't a compass with which to describe the circles, 

you can mark out the wheels 
with cups or glass tumblers. 
Cut the wooden axles as shown 
in Fig. 227, making the front 
axle — for the smaller wheels 
— deeper than the rear one, 
c.nte«-unH y tj^gj^ fasten them to the wagon 

Fig. 227. — Cross-section of the and nail the wheels to their 
Express-wagon. ^nds. Drive a tack into the 

front of the wagon-box and tie a cord to it, or if you 
have a small toy horse to hitch to the wagon, fasten 
a pair of shafts to the under side of the box as is shown 
upon the two-wheeled cart. 

The Cart in Fig. 224 is made out of a square flat box 
with its wheels fastened to the center of the under side. 
Make the wheels about 2|- inches in diameter. 

The Auto Deli very- wagon (Figs. 225 and 226) requires 
two boxes about 8^ inches long, 5 inches wide, and 2J 
inches deep. You will see by looking at the illustrations 
that one box is inverted upon the other. Before fasten- 




Figs. 225 and 226. Two Views of an "Auto Delivery-Wagon.' 



CIGAR-BOX TOYS AND GIFTS i8i 

ing them together, remove the two ends of the upper 
box and the rear end of the lower box (leaving the front 
end for the dashboard), and cut 2 inches off the sides at 
the front and an additional piece i inch by if inches 
from the sides of the upper box for windows. Fasten 
the boxes together by nailing strips to the ends of 
side pieces. Nail a narrow strip across the top of the 
rear end of the wagon and hinge a drop end-gate to the 
wagon-bed with cloth strips. Support the end-gate with 
a cloth strap. Tack a curtain of black cloth to the top 
cross strip and sew two cloth straps to the curtain, so 
that it may be fastened up in a roll, as shown in the 
photograph. Make the wheels and axles like those of 
the express wagon, but cut the front and rear wheels, 
also the two axles, of equal size. Cut out a small steer- 
ing-wheel and fasten it on a short wooden rod inside of 
the dashboard. Make a seat and seat back, nail the back 
to the seat, and then fasten the seat between the sides of 
the wagon just below the windows. 

A Jack-in-the-box (Fig. 228) is a simpler toy to make 
than you might imagine. The box should measure about 
5f inches by 5f inches by 5 inches. Hinge the cover to 
the top with two pieces of heavy cloth ; glue one piece to 
the inside of the cover and box, and the other to the out- 
side. Drive a small tack into the front edge of the cover, 
and below it fasten a small hook onto the box ; the hook 
may be bent from a short piece of wire. 

A spiral spring from an old bed-spring will do for Jack's 



l82 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



body, but if you cannot get one of these, it is a simple 
matter to make a spring. Take a piece of No. 12 gauge 
wire about 10 feet in length and wind it around a roll- 
ing-pin or anything that is cylindrical and about 2^ inches 
in diameter. Fasten this spring with doubled-pointed 
tacks upon a piece of wood cut to fit the inside of the 
box (Fig. 229), then procure a small doll's head, baste a 
circular piece of cardboard to the top of the spring and 
to this sew the head. Make a cloth fool's cap to glue 
on Jack's head, covering his hair entirely, and also a 
loose jacket to fit over his spiral body; for these use any 
bright-colored cotton cloth that will fall into folds easily. 

Tack the base of the spring to 
the bottom of the box. 
Make the seat for 
The Round-seated Chair shown in 
Fig. 230 2 inches in diameter, the 
back 5 inches high, 2 inches wide 
at the top, and ij inches wide at 
the seat ; cut the front leg 2^ inches 
high by ij inches wide. 

The Round Center-table (Fig. 231) 

should have a base built up of 

four strips as shown in Fig. 235. 

Cut the circular top 5 inches in diameter. A saucer 

may be used with which to mark this out. 

Select a long flat box for 

The Dining-table shown in Fig. 232, and after making 




Fig. 236. 
Leg of Din- 
ing-table. 



Fig. 235. 
Pedestal of 
Center-table. 



CIGAR-BOX TOYS AND GIFTS 



183 



four built-up legs as shown in Fig. 236 fasten them into 
the four corners of the box. 

In making the little 

Square-seated Chair (Fig. 233), cut the seat about 2 
inches wide by 2J inches deep, the front legs 2|- inches 
high by -| inch wide, and the back legs 4^ inches high 
by I" inch wide. Brace the legs and back with cross- 
pieces, and you will have a very firm and artistic dining- 
room chair. 

Select a box about 9 inches by 5 inches by 2J inches 
in size for making 

The Doll's Cradle shown in Fig. 234. Cut the two 
rockers by the pattern in Fig. 237 and fasten them to 
the bottom of the box i inch 
from the ends. Use the rim 
of a breakfast plate in draw- ^ 
ing the arc of the rockers. 

The Key-board shown in 
Fig. 238 is one of the sim- 
plest gifts that can be made. 
Follow the dimensions given 
upon the pattern (Fig. 243) 
in laying out the board. 
Where two sides of a piece 
correspond, first draw a cen- 
ter-line, then lay out one 
side, trace it off upon a piece 
of tissue paper, turn the 




Fig. 237. — Pattern for Cradle 
Rockers. 




i 



-r4 — 2^ — >! 

Fig. 243. — Pattern for Key-board. 



1 84 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



paper over and reproduce it upon the other side of the 
center-line. By doing this in laying out all your work 
you will have no trouble in getting the sides alike. 
Bore gimlet holes A and B before cutting out the 
key board, then there will be little danger of splitting 
the wood. Space the brass hooks as shown in the 
photograph. 

The Corner Clock-shelf (Fig. 239) is built up of sev- 
eral pieces of wood, the shelf (Fig. 244) consisting of 




Fig. 247. Fig. 245. 

Fig 244. — Shelf of Corner Clock-shelf. 
Fig. 245. — Bracket of Corner Clock-shelf. 
Fig. 246. — Pattern of Shelf Pieces. 
Fig. 247. — Pattern of Bracket Pieces. 

pieces A and B, and the bracket (Fig. 245) of C D, 
and E, Figure 246 shows the pattern for A and B, 
After cutting these pieces trim \ inch off of the front 
edge of B (see dotted line, Fig. 246). Cover the lower 
face of A and the upper face of B with glue, then place 
them together with the side edges flush and the front 




Fig. 239. 



Fig. 340. 



Fig. 338. 



Fig. 338. A Key-Board. Fig. 239. A Corner Clock-Shelf. 

Fig. 240. A Whisk-Broom Holder. Fig. 341. A Kitchen Match-Box. 
Fig. 342. A Cottage Pipe-Rack and Match-Box. 



ii 



CIGAR-BOX TOYS AND GIFTS 



185 



edge of A projecting over that of B. Cut the three 
bracket pieces as shown in Fig. 247, then cut \ inch off 
of the long or front edge of C and E (see dotted Hne, 
Fig. 247) so that when they are nailed together the edge 
of D will project beyond C and E as shown in Fig. 245. 
The shelf and bracket should be placed under a heavy 
weight until the glue has set. The photograph shows 
how to hang the shelf in the corner by means of brads 
and screw-eyes, the brads being driven into the under 
side of the shelf and the eyes screwed into the wall for 
them to stick through. 

A Whisk-broom Holder such as is shown in Fig. 240 is 
a gift which any one will appreciate for his or her room. 
Make the back and front pieces 
similar to A and B (Fig. 
248) and cut the side pieces 
4^^ inches high by i^ inches 
wide. Place the side pieces 
between the front and back in 
putting the holder together. 

A large match-box is a very 
handy article for the kitchen, 
where the supply of matches 
generally disappears so rapidly 
that an ordinary size of box requires refilling every day 
or so, and 

The Kitchen Match-box shown in Fig. 241 will be ap- 
preciated by your mother, because the large receptacle in 




Fig. 248. — Patterns for V^hisk- 
broom Holder. 



i86 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



the lower portion will hold a iulY box of matches. The 
upper part of the box is intended for burnt matches. 

Figure 249 shows the patterns for the different pieces. 
A is the back, B the ends, C the front of the upper re- 




Fig. 249. — Patterns for Kitchen Match-box. 

ceptacle, and D the front of the lower receptacle. Be- 
sides these pieces you will need a piece i^ inches wide 
by the length of C for the bottom of the upper receptacle 
and a piece 2J inches wide by the length of £> for the 
bottom of the lower one. The photograph will show you 
how to put the pieces together. After the box has been 
completed and given its oil finish, glue a strip of No. o 
sandpaper to the bottom of the lower receptacle. 

A gift suitable for the relative or friend who smokes a 
pipe is 

The Cottage Pipe-rack and Match-box shown in Fig. 
242. The little cottages are made out of cigar-box wood, 
but the back and bottom pieces (Fig. 250) are cut out of 
thicker material ; ^-inch pine, whitewood, or basswood 
will do. Figure 251 shows the dimensions for the cot- 



CIGAR-BOX TOYS AND GIFTS 



187 



tages and the method of putting them together. As the 
end cottages are match-boxes, cut an opening in the outer 
side of their roofs as in Fig. 251 



Use glue and |-inch 




Fig. 250. 

Fig. 251. 
Fig. 250. — Patterns for Back and Bottom Pieces of Cottage Pipe-rack and 

Match-box. 
Fig. 251. — Details of Cottages. 
Fig. 252. — Patterns for Paper Doors and Windows. 

brads in fastening the pieces, also cloth strips for attach- 
ing the roof. 

Give the cottages two coats of linseed-oil, then paint 
the top and edges of the roofs red ( Ve7ietiaii red) and 
the under side white. With a rule and pencil lay out 
the doors and windows upon a piece of white letter- 
paper, then draw the lines in ink, paint the shutters green 
and the glass black (use water-colors), and mark off the 
divisions in the glass with white ; then cut these out and 
glue them on to the cottages as shown in the photo- 
graph. 

After the back and bottom pieces have been cut and 



i88 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

the holes have been bored in the^bottom piece (Fig. 250), 
rub them down with sandpaper and nail the back to the 
edge of the bottom piece. Give the back piece two coats 
of white lead and chrome-yellow (mixed to form a pretty 
cream color) and the bottom piece two coats of olive- 
green. Glue the cottages in place, spacing them as 
shown in the photograph, then cut out the little chim- 
neys to fit the roofs, paint them red with white caps 
{Venetian red and white lead), and glue them in place. 
Cut the trees out of a piece of cigar-box wood, paint them 
green, and fasten them to the back piece with brads. 
Screw two screw-eyes into the top edge of the back piece 
and glue a strip of sandpaper below each end cottage on 
which to strike matches. 

Two, three, and four cottage pipe-racks may be made 
by changing the proportions of the back and bottom 
pieces, and 

A Cottage Match-box, made by attaching a single cot- 
tage to a back piece similar to A, Fig. 249, will be a 
pretty gift. The cottage may be divided through the 
center for good and burnt matches, in which case an 
opening must be cut in each side of the roof. 

Among the many 

Other Gifts which may be made out of cigar boxes are 
a letter opener, a hall letter-rack, a cube-shaped box for 
stri7tg, a tooth-brush rack, a glove box, and a handker- 
chief box. Use your ingenuity and work out your own 
designs for these. 




The toys shown opposite page 190 are a few of the 
many mechanical toys which can be operated by clock 
work, and they are easy to make, too, requiring no more 
mechanical ability than is possessed by the average boy 
old enough to handle the simplest of tools. 

Generally it is easy to find an old clock somewhere 
about the house, and a clock which has been discarded 
simply because it has become worthless as a timekeeper 
is perfectly good for operating these toys, provided the 
mainsprmg is in working order. It is not necessary to 
have a set of works for each toy, for they are so quickly 
fastened in place that but a minute is required to trans- 
fer the works from one toy to another. 

Before commencing work upon the toys, get together 

The Other Necessary Materials. These will consist of 
cigar boxes, cardboard, cotton or silk spools, glue, brads, 
and a few pieces from the woodpile, with one or two ad- 
ditional articles which are mentioned later on. Brads 
|- inch and i inch in length should be purchased for 
fastening the framework of the toys together, and the 



TQO 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



cigar boxes should be about 8 inches by 4 inches by 
2 inches in size. Remove the paper from the boxes 
as described in the preceding chapter. 

To prepare the Clockwork for use, remove it from its 
case, detach the hands and face, and pry off the small 
wheel pivoted directly under the hands ; this wheel is 
shown at A in Fig. 257. Remove also iho: balance-wheel 



^ 



>i 








Fig. 257. — How the Clockwork Motor is fastened to the Cigar-box Cover. 

(This Box has been cut down to the Proper Length for the Ferris Wheel.) 

B (Fig. 257) and the lever C pivoted next to it, to in- 
crease the speed of the remaining wheels. 

Fasten the clockwork motor for 

The Merry-go-round shown in Fig. 253 to the cover of 



CLOCKWORK TOYS 191 

a cigar box, as illustrated in Figs. 254 and 257, boring 
holes through the cover with a gimlet for the pivot ends 
on the back of the works to set into. Remove the lower 
flange from a spool {D, Fig. 257) and fasten the spool 
on to the central pivot of the clockwork in the position 
formerly occupied by wheel A. The hole in the spool 
will be too large for the pivot and must be filled up with 
sealing-wax. To do this, hold a piece of sealing-wax 
above the spool and melt it with a lighted match, allow- 
ing it to drip into the hole until the latter is about half 
full, then press the wax down with the end of a match 
until it is compact, smooth it off on the bottom of the 
spool, and make a dent in it with a pencil to indicate the 
exact center of the hole. Heat the end of the pivot with 
a lighted match, and press it into the dent in the wax. 
being careful in doing so to get the spool straight upon 
the pivot. Cut a hole through the bottom of the cigar 
box belonging to the cover to which you have attached 
the works, for spool D to project through (Fig. 257). 

To make the Standard for the merry-go-round, cut four 
strips of wood 8 inches long, and fasten one to each 
corner of the cigar box, turning the bottom side of the 
box up; then cut a piece of |-inch board 10 inches 
square, locate its center F by drawing diagonal lines 
from corner to corner as shown in Fig. 258, bore a i-inch 
hole through it at this point for spool D (Fig. 254), and 
then nail the box to the center of the board as shown in 
Fig. 258. 



[92 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



The Tent should be laid out upon heavy white paper 
as shown in Fig. 259. After describing a circle with a 
radius of 9 inches, describe 
another circle within it 




Fig. 258. —Plan of Top of Stand- 
ard for Merry-go-round. 



Fig. 259. — Pattern for Tent of Merry- 
go-round. 




with a radius of 7J inches, this inner circle (shown by 
dotted lines in the diagram) being drawn for a guide in 
fastening the tent upon its tent-poles. Cut out the tent 

along the outer circle, and from 
it cut a triangular piece about 
the size of that included be- 
FiG. 260. — The Tent ready to be twcen lines KL and ML in 
fastened upon a Tent-pole. the diagram. Covcr the under 
edge of KL and the upper edge of ML with glue, lap 
KL over to about NL, and rub down the edges with 
a cloth to make as neat a joint between the pieces as 
possible (Fig. 260). Bore a hole through each corner of 
the standard top (6^, H, /, and/, Fig. 258), then cut four 




Fig. 254. A Clockwork Motor. -pi^^ gse 



\\ 



CLOCKWORK TOYS 



193 



sticks 7 Inches long, sandpaper them until smooth, and 
glue them into these holes for 

The Tent-poles. When the tent has dried, tack it to 
the ends of the poles, being careful to make it set evenly 
upon them ; cut a scalloped border out of red or blue 
paper and paste it to the edge all around as shown in 
Fig. 253, and stick a small flag in the peak. 

The Horses. A full-size pattern for these is shown in 
Fig. 261. Take a piece of tracing-paper or any thin 




Fig. 261. — Full-size Pattern for the Horses of the Merry-go-round. 

transparent paper, and place it over the pattern and 
make an exact copy ; then rub a soft lead-pencil over 
the other side of the paper, turn the paper over with the 



194 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



blackened side down, and transfer the drawing six times 
upon a piece of light-weight cardboard. Paint the horses 
with water-colors, using the pattern as a guide for shading 
and marking them, then cut them out with a sharp knife 
or a pair of scissors. 

Figure 262 shows the pattern for 

The Sleighs. Draw this out upon a piece of card- 
board, cut it out and fold along the dotted lines, then turn 



r-'--r 


H-f-^ .■__^|--H- 


I 




1 'lOlCD 


~i rri 


1 




a J - 1 

J, -kv 


Side If 




r-i^ 


1 


1=1 i p M 


)t 


/lap 

Seats 




\Jl^~Bend Along Dotted LinesK^ 
dashboard; =_i'^ Bottom ! Back ^..,^-^'''' 
— 1-4— j ^i" i 'I-'" 

: 1 i 






5; '-L 3019 n 


dvnj 














f 
+ 


\ \ \\ 





Fig. 262. — Pattern for the Merry-go-round Sleighs. 

in the flaps and glue them to the dashboard and to the 
back. Cut two seats by the pattern given, bend down 
the flaps and glue them to the sides of the sleigh, and 
make the back for the front seat like that on the back 
seat (Fig. 263). Then make another sleigh similar to 
the one just completed, for two are required for the merry- 
go-round. Paint the sleighs green or yellow with trim- 
mings of a lighter shade. 



CLOCKWORK TOYS 



195 




Fig. 263. — A Completed Sleigh 
showing Attachment to Shaft. 



Figure 254 shows 

The Shafts upon which the horses and sleighs are 
mounted. Cut them 5^ inches long, whittle them round, 
and rub them down with sandpaper. The shafts are 
fastened in a spool hub which 
has five holes bored in it {E, 
Fig. 254); bore the holes with 
a gimlet or small drill, marking 
them off first with a pencil to 
be sure of getting them spaced 
at equal distances. Point the 
ends of the shafts and glue them 
into the holes in the hub, then connect this spool to spool 
D with a piece of a lead-pencil 2 inches long (Fig. 254). 

To fasten the horses to the shafts, punch a hole 
through three of them at X (Fig. 261) and slip each one 
over a shaft, then tack the other three horses to the ends 
of these shafts at the point X. To fasten the sleighs to 
the remaining shafts, glue one end of a piece of paper to 
the back of the front seat and the other end around the 
shaft (Fig. 263). 

The Girl Riders for the sleighs are shown full size in 
Fig. 264, and 

The Boy Riders for the horses are shown full size in 
Fig. 265. Make tracings from the patterns as you made 
that of the horse and prepare four girls and six boys. 
Paint their clothes in bright colors. Cut a second leg 
for each boy rider, so he can be made to sit astride of his 



196 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



horse, and glue the leg to his hip as shown in Fig. 266. 
Cut a slit in each seat of the sleigh and stick the flaps on 
the girl riders in them. 

For the Platform shown directly under the horses and 
sleighs in Fig. 253, cut a piece of cardboard 11 inches in 




Fig. 264. — Full-size Pattern for the 
Girl Riders. 




Fig. 265. Fig. 266. 



Fig. 266. — How 
the Second Leg 
of the Boy is At- 
tached. 



Fig. 265. — Full-size Pattern for the Boy Riders. 

diameter; if you choose to make the Ferris wheel before 
the merry-go-round, you may use the center pieces re- 
moved in cutting out the rims, as noted in Fig. 271. 
Punch a hole through the center of this disk large enough 
for the peg connecting spools D and E to slip through. 
This platform rests upon the top of spool D and revolves 
with it. 



CLOCKWORK TOYS 197 

To Operate the Merry-go-round. The key by which 
the mainspring is wound up is shown screwed in place 
on the under side of the cigar-box cover in Fig. 257. 
While winding the mainspring, it will be necessary to 
have some means of checking it so it will not unwind at 
the same time, and the best scheme for a check is to 
bore a small gimlet hole through the cover of the cigar 
box and stick a match through this and run it between 
the spokes of one of the clock wheels so as to prevent 
it from turning. Then when you have wound up the 
spring and are ready to start the merry-go-round, all you 
have to do is to pull out the match. 

The model of this toy which the author has before 
him runs for five minutes with one winding, and any boy 
can make one which will run as well if he follows the 
directions given and uses a reasonable amount of care- 
fulness in the work. 

Other Animals than horses may be used if you wish to 
follow the arrangement of some of the latest merry-go- 
rounds, and pictures of these may be found among the 
colored cut-outs sold in the stationery stores, or if you 
can draw well, you may copy them from books and 
magazines. Great fun may be had by changing the 
positions of the boy riders, making them ride backward 
part of the time and sometimes two and three boys on a 
horse. . 

Doubtless you have heard of the famous Ferris wheel, 
and a good many of you have ridden in the smaller 



198 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



wheels patterned after it, at the amusement parks, so 
you will be interested in making 

A Miniature Ferris Wheel like the one shown in Fig. 

255. 

The Standard for supporting the wheel (Fig. 267) 

consists of two triangular supports, one with a spool 

hub fastened to its top for 

the axle of the wheel to run 

through and the other with 

the cigar box inclosing the 

clockwork fastened to it. 

Figures 268, 269, and 270 

show the construction of 

these supports. Cut strips 

P and Q 12 inches long 

and R 10 inches long, and 

trim off the upper ends of 

Fig. 267. — Standard for the Ferris P and Q, SO when they are 

nailed together, the lower 

ends will be 8 inches apart; nail strip R to the lower 

ends of P and Q (Fig. 268). To fasten the spool hub 

to its support, smear one side of a piece of tape with 

glue and wind it several times around the spool (Fig. 

269), then set the spool on top of the support and press 

the ends of the tape against the sides of strips P and Q 

(Fig. 270). 

The Clockwork Motor for the Ferris wheel is fastened 

to the cover of a cigar box just as that for the merry- 




CLOCKWORK TOYS 



199 




go-round was fastened (Fig. 257), but the length of the 
box is cut down as much as the clockwork will allow to 
make the box as square and compact as possible. 

It is very necessary to 
have the axle bearings 
exactly on a line in order 
to have the wheel run 
smoothly, so, in fastening ^P* 
the cigar box to its sup- 
port, be sure that the cen- 
ter of the hole in spool D 
(Fig. 257) is on a level 
with the spool hub on the 
opposite support. Nail Fig. 2 

the supports to a lO-inch Fig. 268. — Make Two Supports like 

by 12-inch board, 8 inches J'^''' ^^^ the Ferris Wheel standard. 

•' , Figs. 269 and 270. — How a Spool is 

apart, and fasten a cigar fastened to the Top of the Support 

box between them for ^^^ ^ ^^^• 

The Station Platform (Fig. 267). 

To make the Wheel, first lay out the rims upon a piece 
of heavy cardboard, using the radii shown in Fig. 271 
for describing the circles, then lay the sheet of cardboard 
upon a board and 

Cut out the Rims with a sharp knife, being careful not 
to run off of the pencil line. The 

Hubs of the wheel are spools with six holes bored in 
them for the spokes to fit in (Fig. 274). Cut six 

Spokes 5|- inches long by \ inch thick for each hub. 



200 



HANDICRAFr FOR HANDY BOYS 



and cut a slot in one end of each for the cardboard rims 
to fit in (Figs. 272 and 275). Use a saw rather than a 





f iG. 271. Fig. 272. Fig. 273. 

Fig. 271. — How to lay out the Cardboard Rims of the Ferris Wheel. 

Fig. 272. — The Spokes fitted into the Spool Hub. 

Fig. 273. — The Rim slipped into the End of the Spokes. 

knife in making the slots, for it will make a kerf of just 
the right width to receive the cardboard and will not 
be so apt to split the ends of the slender spokes. 

Whittle the hub ends of 
the spokes to fit the holes 
in the spool hubs (Figs. 
272 and 275). In 

Putting together the 
Fig. 275. -How the Spokes, Hubs, and Rims of 

Spokes, Rims, and i i r • i i 

Axles are fastened the wheel, first stick three 

Together. spokcs in a hub and slip a 

rim into the slots in their ends, then stick the remaining 

spokes into the hub, one at a time, and spread the rim 

enough so it can be slipped into their slots (Fig. 273). 

When the hubs, rims, and spokes have been assembled, 



I 




Fig. 274. — A 
Spool Hub for 
the Wheel. 



CLOCKWORK TOYS 



20I 



lay them aside and get some heavy wrapping-paper or 
thin cardboard out of which 

To make the Cars. The pattern for the cars is shown 
in Fig. 276, and on it you will find all the dimensions 




Fig. 276. — Pattern for the Ferris Wheel Cars. 

necessary for laying it out to the proper size. It will be 
understood that the unfigured portions of the drawing 
are the same as those with dimensions marked upon 
them. The dotted lines at the door and window open- 



202 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



ings indicate where the cutting is to be done, while all 
other dotted lines indicate where the cardboard is to be 
scored and folded. Use a ruler in making the drawing 
of the car to get the lines straight, and when you have 
finished it, go over it carefully and compare it with the 
illustration to be sure it is correct, after which make a 
careful tracing of it, turn it over and transfer the draw- 
ing five times upon cardboard. These and your original 
drawing will give you the required number of cars. 
Cut out the openings with a sharp knife and then do 
the rest of the cutting with a pair of scissors ; punch 
a J-inch hole in each end of each car with a lead-pencil 
(Fig. 276), being careful to get the holes exactly opposite. 

^^""ZTSr. ■ In folding and glu- 

p^-^^S=^ (^ r^^^^^^^T^^^^ ^ H^ 1— —z l ing the cars, slip 

the flaps inside and 
bend the roofs so 
they will follow the 
curve of the ends 

Fig. 277. — A Completed Car for the Ferris Wheel, /tt- ^^\ 

(i^lg. 277). 

When the cars have been completed, cut six sticks 5 
inches long, whittle them down until they are about \ inch 
in diameter, and sandpaper them until they are perfectly 
round and smooth. These sticks connect the rims of 
the wheel and form 

The Axles from which the cars are hung (Fig. 277). 
Great care must be used in fastening them between the 
rims, for they are easily split, and the best way to do is 




CLOCKWORK TOYS 203 

to start a hole first in the ends of each axle with an 
awl, or by driving a brad part way in and then with- 
drawing it ; then drive a brad through each spoke of 
one rim into an axle (Fig. 275) ; slip the other ends of 
the axles through the holes in the ends of the cars (Fig. 
277), and nail the spokes of the other rim to them. 

To mount the Wheel upon its standard, whittle an axle 
8^ inches long to fit the hubs, then hold the wheel be- 
tween the two uprights, with the hubs on a line with the 
spool bearings and run the axle through the holes (Fig. 

255). 

Build Steps at each end of the platform out of heavy 
writing-paper or light cardboard. Fold the paper or 
cardboard back and forth, making pleats about J inch 
wide, for the steps, and after gluing it in place, cut out 
the balustrades and glue them to the edges of the steps. 
Make the top step low enough so there will be about 
^-inch clearance between it and the bottom of the cars 
(Fig. 255). 

After you have made a final inspection to see that 
everything has been put together properly, your toy will 
be ready for operation, and I am sure that when you set 
the clockwork machinery in motion, and the little wheel 
begins to revolve slowly with each little car balancing 
upon its axle, you will agree that you have constructed 
a very interesting toy. 

The " Flying Airships " is a riding device consisting of 
a number of cars suspended by steel cables from large 



204 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

arms pivoted to the top of a tower. When the machin- 
ery is started, the arms begin to revolve slowly, and the 
motion produced causes the cars to swing out away from 
the center. As the speed of the arms increases, the cars 
swing out farther and farther, until when the highest 
speed has been reached the cables by which the cars are 
suspended have taken an oblique position and raised the 
cars some distance above the ground ; then the speed of 
the engine is gradually diminished, and the cars finally 
regain their former position. This piece of apparatus is 
also known as an aerostat. 

You will find the miniature flying airships (Fig. 256) 
easy to construct after making a merry-go-round or 
Ferris wheel, as many of its details are identical with 
those of the other toys. 

The Standard for the toy is made similar to the one for 
the merry-go-round (Fig. 253), except that the top board 
is omitted and a circular piece of cardboard of the size 
of the disks removed in cutting out the rims of the 
Ferris wheel is substituted in its place. Cut a hole 
through the exact center of the piece large enough so it 
will fit over spool D (Fig. 254). 

Cut a Mast about 14 inches long and of the diameter 
of the hole in the spool and stick it into spool D ; then 
3 inches below the top of the mast fasten a spool with 
four horizontal arms 6 inches long glued into holes 
bored in it. Fasten a cross-piece \\ inches long to the 
end of each arm with brads, and from these suspend 



CLOCKWORK TOYS 205 

Cars made similar to those of the Ferris wheel with 
cords. Set a small flag in a hole bored in the top of the 
mast and then run cords from the top of the mast out to 
the ends of the arm pieces. 

With this toy the cars cannot be swung out obliquely 
as on the large flying airships except by 

Increasing the Speed of the Clockwork. This can be 
accomiplished by removing one or two of the wheels of 
the clockwork, but it is not advisable to take out more 
than one wheel in addition to those removed for the 
merry-go-round (Fig. 257) because the mainspring would 
require rewinding too often to make the toy enjoyable. 




m^a 



CHAPTER XIII 

BRASS CRAFT 




Of the modern handicrafts requiring materials other 
than wood, those in which metal is used are probably 
the most interesting to boys, for metal is one of their 
principal materials for all work of an electrical or me- 
chanical nature ; and as metal handicrafts require tools 
such as most boys are accustomed to handle, the work is 
probably better suited to boys than to girls. 

Brass-piercing is an interesting metal craft, the material 
is inexpensive, and the work is simple. Following are 

The Tools and Materials Required : — 

Hammer 

Piercing Tool (see Fig. 278) 
1" Cold-chisel (see Fig. 278) 
Flat or Half-round Metal-file 

(see Fig. ^3, P^ge 25) 
Board (Whitewood or Bass- 
wood) i" X 12" X 20'' 
Pencil, Eraser, and Compass 
Drawing-paper and Carbon 

Paper 
No. 30 Gauge Sheet Brass for 
small work 




9^ ^/S" Pound -I 

• 'Escutcheon Pin 



Fig. 278. — Some of the Tools and 
Materials Required. 



206 



BRASS CRAFT 207 

No. 28 Gauge Sheet Brass for large work 

6-oz. Tacks 

I" Round-head Escutcheon Pins (Fig. 278) 

Brass Shanks or Paper Fasteners (Fig. 278) 

\" Brass Screw-eyes 

Box of No. 20 Brass Chain (or Bead Fringe) (Fig. 278) 

Metal Polish and Lacquer 

To make easy the work of laying out designs for 
the articles illustrated in this chapter, suitable designs 
are shown at a small scale. Those which are more or 
less elaborate may be drawn full size by the process of 

Enlarging by Squares, which is easy to carry out. Each 
of the small squares drawn across these designs represents 
a space on the full-size pattern J inch square (Fig. 281). 
The first thing to do is to lay out, full size, the outlines 
and marginal lines of the piece of brass required for the 
article upon a piece of drawing-paper, using the dimen- 
sions given upon the diagram. Take one side of the 
1 2-by-20-inch board for a drawing-board and use the other 
side to do the piercing on ; tack the paper to the board. 
Then when you have carefully checked up the measure- 
ments with those upon the diagram, lay off the 
squares upon it, making each of those shown ^ inch 
each way ; then number one end of the horizontal lines 
and letter one end of the vertical lines as shown, and it 
will be a simple matter to locate each portion of the 
design upon your pattern just where it is shown in the 
book, for, by the lettering and numbering, corresponding 



2o8 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

squares can be located quickly. When the design has 
been drawn out full size, it is a simple matter to trace 
off the entire pattern — outline and design — upon a 
piece of brass, by placing a piece of carbon paper between 
the drawing-paper and the brass and then carefully trac- 
ing over the lines with a sharp pencil. Carbon paper 
such as stenographers use upon their typewriters for 
making duplicate copies of typewritten matter may be 
used. Where two sides of a design are similar (Fig. 285), 
enlarge one half, make a tracing of it, reverse the tracing, 
and trace it off upon the opposite side of the center-line ; 
if the design is repeated several times, lay it out upon 
one section and then trace it off upon the other sections. 
By doing this it is easier to get all portions alike. Leave 
a margin of about \ inch around the edges of the outline 
to allow for turning in. Be sure not to cut out the 
piece from the sheet until after you have pierced the 
design, except in cases where the brass is to be mounted 
upon wood, for the square piece will be easier to hold to 
the board during this operation. 

When ready 

To pierce a Design, first follow the outlines of the entire 
design and pierce a continuous row of small holes along 
them, placing the holes as close together as possible and 
making them of equal size; then fill in a series of coarser 
holes in the spaces between these rows of holes to form 
a background to the design. As the piercing tool is 
tapered to a point, the size of the hole is, of course, deter- 



BRASS CRAFT 209 

mined by the depth to which it is driven through the 
brass. Drive the tool with a hammer. The background 
holes should not be spaced off in even rows nor in the 
form of a pattern, for the effect would be such as to 
detract from the design, but they should be scattered 
over the field in such a way that the spaces between will 
be about equal; this will give the background an even 
tone. 

Wire brushes are sold for 

Polishing the Brass, but you will find that any sort of 
metal polish or scouring powder will answer the purpose 
very well. Of course the brass will tarnish and must be 
polished from time to time to keep it bright, unless some 
finish is put upon it. Brass lacquers — transparent or 
in color — may be purchased at the art stores, but you 
wdll find 

A Home-made Antique Green Lacquer of the following 
formula very pretty and a simple solution to make up : — 

I part ammonia muriate 
I part ammonia carbonate 
12 parts cold water 

The metal should be cleaned thoroughly and the solu- 
tion should be applied with a brush. Several applications 
of the lacquer will improve the depth of the finish. 

With these general instructions in mind, you can 
begin work upon some of the simpler articles illustrated 
in this chapter. 

A Tea-pot Stand such as is shown in Fig. 279 consists 



2IO 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 




Fig. 279. 



of a circular wood disk upon which a piece of perforated 
brass is mounted. Use a piece of |^-inch whitewood or 

basswood for the disk. Make it 
5^1 inches in diameter, cut it out 
with a compass-saw or other fine 
saw, and smooth the edges with a 
wood-file or chisel ; then sand- 
paper it. Cut a strip of brass of 
the proper width and length to 
form a metal band for the edge of 
the base, and tack it to the edsre 

Fig. 279. — A Tea-pot Stand. . ^ 

Fig. 280. -Section through With escutcheon pms (tig. 278), 
Stand. spacing them about \ inch apart. 

The pattern for the top brass covering is shown in 

Fig. 281. After the de- 



sign has been laid out full 
size upon brass, the piece 
should be cut out before 
the perforating is done and 
fastened to the base with 
escutcheon pins. Describe 
a circle about ^ inch in- 
side of the edge of the 
brass, locate positions for 
the pins around this, f inch 
apart, and punch the holes 
at these points with the 
piercer before driving the 



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Fig. 281. — Pattern for Top of Tea-pot 
Stand and Calendar Board. 

(On the full-size pattern make each of the 
small squares shown above \ inch square, 
to guide you in enlarging the design.) 



BRASS CRAFT 



211 



pins 
ject 



into the base. The edge of the brass top will pro- 
inch over the brass band (Fig. 280). 



about Y^g 



Drive three rug tacks into the base, as shown, for feet. 

A Calendar Board like the one shown in Fig. 282 will 
make a pretty Christmas or New Year's gift. Its con- 
struction is similar to that of the 
tea-pot stand, with the omission 
of the feet and the addition of a 
brass screw-eye screwed into the 
top by which to hang it up. A 
small calendar can usually be 
bought at a stationery store, and 
this should be attached to the exact 
center of the board by means of two 
escutcheon pins driven through 
the corners of the top margin. 

The Pen Tray illustrated in Fig. 283 requires a bottom 
block of the size shown in Fig. 284. After preparing 




Fig. 282. — A Calendar 
Board. 




Fig. 283.— a Pen Tray. 



Fig. 284. — Wood Bottom and 
Brass Rim for the Pen Tray. 



this, cut a piece of brass of the exact width and length 
of the block and fasten it to the top with escutcheon pins, 
spacing the pins about as shown in Fig. 283. Then en- 



212 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



:eNTER-LINE^ A 



large the design shown in Fig. 285, trace it off upon the 
brass, and perforate it. After this has been done, cut a 
strip of brass f inch wide, bend it to fit around the edge 

of the bottom block, 
as shown in Fig. 
284, and tack it to 
the edge to form 
a rim to the tray. 
The ends of the 




Fig. 285. — Design for Bottom of Pen Tray. 
(Enlarge the right half and reverse it for the left half.) 



strip should be made to lap at one corner as in Fig. 283. 
File off the top edge of the rim smooth and glue a piece 
of felt to the bottom of the tray to prevent it from 
scratching any surface upon which it is placed. 

Lamp and candle shades are among the most popular 
pierced brass articles. Fig. 286 shows 

A Lamp-sl^ade of six sides, and Fig. 287 how the 
sides appear when laid out on a sheet of brass. The de- 
sign is shown upon two of 
the panels, in the pattern: 
on one as it will appear 
when the background is per- 
forated, and on the other 
with the squares marked off 
upon it to help you in en- 
larging it. After laying 
out the design full size, trace it off upon each of the panels. 
The piece should be cut out, after the perforating has 
been completed, and folded along the dotted lines. Bend 




Fig. 286. — A Lamp-shade of Six Sides. 
(See Fig. 142, Chapter VI.) 



BRASS CRAFT 



213 



the brass over the sharp edge of your board. The flaps 
along the top and bottom edges should be turned in and 




Fig. 287. — Pattern for Lamp-shade of Six Sides. 

hammered flat against the sides of the shade, and the 
end edges should also be turned in and one lapped over 



214 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

the other. Fasten the end edges with brass shanks, 
paper fasteners, or escutcheon pins (Fig. 278), bending 
the ends over upon the inside. If you use the pins, 
cut them off short and clinch them upon the inside by 
placing them on the head of a hatchet and hammering 
the heads with a hammer. 

Chain Fringe is cheaper and more interesting to put on 
than the bead fringe frequently used upon brass shades. 
Figure 278 shows the size which should be bought. Cut 
this up into 3-inch lengths and fasten the pieces to the 
lower edge of the shade about ^q inch from center to 
center, hooking the opened link on the end of each piece 
of chain through a hole punched through the brass, and 
then pinching it closed. 

The Candle-shade on the candle-stick in Fig. 291 
should be laid out by the pattern in Fig. 288. As the 
landscape design is very simple, it will not be necessary 
to enlarge it by squares. After piercing and cutting out 
the piece of brass, snip the top and bottom edges, cutting 
out small triangular pieces as shown, and then bend 
over the little flaps thus formed and hammer them down 
flat against the inside face of the shade. The edge of 
one end of the piece should also be turned in (see dotted 
line on pattern), and this should either be lapped over 
the other edge and the two fastened as described for the 
other shade, or the other edge should be folded out and 
one edge hooked into the other as the edges of a tin can 
are joined, and the two hammered down so as to make 



BRASS CRAFT 



215 



a neat edge. Attach chain fringe to the rim as de- 
scribed for the other shade. 

Figures 289 and 290 show two forms of 
Shade Holders, the former for an electric lamp and the 
latter for a candle. These can be 
bought where light-fixtures are sold 
and cost about 10 cents apiece. 

The Candle-stick shown in Fig. 291 
is easy to make, and when the wood 

is carefully cov- 
ered with the 
brass, makes a 
very neat-ap- 





FiG. 289. 




Fig. 291 . — a Brass Candle- 
stick with Circular Shade. 



Fig. 290. 
Fig. 289. — Electric Lamp- 
shade Holder, 
pearing article. Fig. 290. — Candle-shade 

Figure 292 ^°^^^^- 
shows the sizes of the pieces of 
brass, together with the designs 
which are to be perforated upon 
them. First prepare the wood 
blocks for the base, upright, and top 
pieces, making them ^ inch less 
than the dimensions given upon the 
patterns, to allow for the thickness 
of the brass. Before fastening the 
blocks together, prepare the brass 
pieces, nail them in place, lay out 
the designs, and perforate them. 
The sides should be made in one 



2l6 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



piece and be bent around the corners. The upper cover- 
ing of the top and base pieces should project about ^ inch 



. 'f" ! 



EDGE OH BASE 
(CUT STRIP LONG ENOUGH FOH 4 EDGES; 




Fig. 292. — Patterns for Brass Pieces of the 
Candle-stick. 

(Cut the wood blocks ^^ inch less than the above 
dimensions to allow for the thickness ol the brass.) 

as shown in Fig. 291. After nailing 
the blocks together, glue a strip of felt 
to the bottom of the base piece. 

The " Paul Revere " Lantern shown 
in Fig. 293 differs from the lanterns 
used in the colonial times only in this 
respect — it is lighted by removing 
the bottom instead of through a door- 
way in the side. The door has been omitted to make 
the construction simpler; however, if you wish to make 
an exact copy, you may make a door and hinge it in place 
with pieces of wire. For this lantern the proper size for 
an opening would be 3^ by 6| inches. 

The right-hand portion of the patterns for the side 




Fig. 293. — A " Paul 
Revere " Lantern. 




BRASS CRAFT 217 

and top pieces (Figs. 296 and 297) shows the main 
measurements for the design, and at the left the design 
is shown perforated. After laying out lines to the 
measurements given, divide up the spaces between into 
the number of spaces shown. The small holes of the 
design are made with a 
piercer, and the slits are 
cut with a cold-chisel (Fig. 
278). Space the perfora- 
tions as shown, and be 
careful to keep the ends 
of the slits within the Fig. 295.-The FiG.294.-The 

Lantern Bottom. Lantern Sides. 

guide-lines 

The tips on the upper edge of the side piece slip 
through the slots cut in the top piece (Figs. 296 and 
297), and hold the top to the sides when bent over, 
while the two holes near the bottom edge are made 
to receive the pins which hold the bottom in place 
(Figs. 293, 294, and 295). 

Fasten the ends of the side piece together with 
brass shanks (Fig. 294), then cut a circular block of 
wood to fit in the bottom end of this cylinder (Fig. 295), 
and fasten to it a circular piece of brass of a large 
enough diameter to make a ^-inch projection beyond 
the sides of the lantern. Make a candle-holder out 
of a strip of brass, as shown in Fig. 295, and tack 
this to the base block. The pins for holding the bottom 
in the lantern are made out of two brass screw-eyes, 



2l8 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



by filing off the threads, and these are held to the 
bottom with short pieces of brass chain to keep them 
from being lost when the bottom is removed for light- 
ing the candle. Before fastening the top to the sides 

Fig. 




I ^ ! ^///////////////////m////////// 




Y\G. 296. 

Fig. 296. — Pattern of Lantern Sides. 
Fig. 297. — Pattern of Lantern Top. 
Fig. 298. — Brass Strip for Lantern Ring. 

prepare the lantern ring. Cut a strip of brass of the size 
shown in Fig. 298, bend it over along the center to make 
it stiff, and then bend it into a ring and clinch the ends 
together like the sides of a tin can are clinched. Wire 
the ring to the peak as shown in Fig. 293. 




Marconi's experiments from 1895 to 1899 to devise 
instruments for the transmitting and recording of 
messages without the use of wires, resulted in a number 
of successes which astonished the scientific world, but 
when he so perfected the apparatus that he was enabled 
on December 12, 1901, to transmit across the Atlantic 
Ocean from Newfoundland to England, this crowning 
success was accepted by one and all as one of the greatest 
achievements of modern times. 

Though wireless telegraphy was looked upon by many 
as depending upon a mysterious phenomena, far too 
deep for the amateur to understand, it was not long 
after articles treating at length upon the subject began 
to appear in the newspapers and technical journals 
that boys started to study into it. Soon after the 
establishment of a wireless station at the Charlestown 
Navy Yard, the operators became aware one day that 
somebody was tampering with their messages, for they 
began to pick up remarks, which were of a decidedly 
unofficial character. The interference became very 

219 



220 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

annoying, and it was a number of days before the 
source could be located; then a crudely arranged mast 
upon a shed roof, a few squares from the Navy Yard, 
furnished a, clew and, as might naturally be expected, 
wares from the top of the mast were found to lead 
down into the shed where it was discovered that two 
boys had fitted up a home electrical shop and installed 
a complete sending and receiving apparatus. The 
investigators were of course greatly surprised to find 
that they had been baffled by mere boys, but you can 
well imagine their chagrin when, upon examining the 
equipment, they found that it was mostly home-made 
and that though part of it was constructed out of 
nothing more or less than junk, it was serving the 
purpose of the government's complicated and costly 
apparatus. 

This just goes to show, boys, that if you can't make 
something out of nothing, you can often come pretty 
close to it, and that with the things you can ordinarily 
find about the house, the shed, and in the junk dealers' 
stores you can construct all sorts of things, many of 
which your father and men manufacturing those very 
things would not believe could be made except with 
the materials customarily used. I do not mean to 
convey the impression by this that you can construct a 
wireless outfit out of such stuff alone ; but it can be 
used to advantage to help out. 

Other boys naturally followed in the footsteps of 



A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT 221 

the pioneer boy experimenters in making wireless 
outfits, and it has been estimated that, at the present 
time, there are in the neighborhood of five thousand 
amateur stations in the country, to say nothing of 
countless thousands of boy enthusiasts who would own 
outfits if they but knew what is required, what parts 
they can make, how to do the work, and how to go 
about installing the outfit. Everywhere you go, now, 
you are likely to see the earmarks of the amateur 
station in the masts set up on the housetops, used 
to support the aerials. In Chicago there are nearly 
three hundred of these stations, and in some parts of 
the city where the enthusiasm runs high you can count 
a score or more of poles within the range of the eye. 

To show you 

What Some Boys have accomplished let me quote from 
two of their letters. Richard Cobb, who lives in Cam- 
bridge, Massachusetts, writes the following in a letter 
published in the Boston Herald: — 

" I have erected at my house a simple wireless telegraph station. 
I receive all the government stations in the district. At 10 o'clock 
each night I hear the wireless telegraph station Wellfleet, and amateur 
stations between times. Once in a while I hear the two revenue 
cutters, the Gresha7?t and Acushnet, and once in a while I hear Brant 
Rock, which is very high-pitched and sends D. When sending a 
message it repeats each word. 

^'I suppose each boy that has a receiving set receives the time at 12 
o'clock each day. I receive the time each day except Sundays. It 
comes in very loud. I set my watch by it each day. My call is I L 



222 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

in the Continental and I X in the M^orse code. My set comprises a 
siHcon detector, fixed condenser, double-shde tuning-coil, one pair of 
500-ohm receivers, 10 1 feet antennae and a gas pipe for a ground. I 
have very good results." 

The making of the same forms of instruments as 
Richard mentions, with the exception of the receivers, is 
described in this chapter. In the same paper, Fulton 
Rindge, also of Cambridge, says : — 

" I began to study wireless telegraphy about two years ago, just 
before the Republic sent out that famous C Q D. My first set was only 
for receiving and a very simple one. It consisted of a poorly made 
tuning-coil, a silicon detector and a telephone receiver. My second 
set was a good deal better, and I had a pair of receivers. I have had 
quite a number of sets, but the one I have now I think is pretty good. 

" All my instruments are home-made. I can send about 10 miles." 

Most of the boys are highly successful with their home 
stations, and with simple apparatus are able to receive 
everything within a radius of 100 miles and to transmit, 
a distance of several miles. Any boy is free to receive 
government and commercial station messages, for this 
does not cause any disturbance, but he must not interfere 
with such messages, for such interference has made much 
trouble and resulted in the enactment of a law forbidding 
it under a severe penalty. 

The Chicago amateurs have a society known as 
The Chicago Wireless Club, and under the guidance of 
their president, Mr. Royal C. Dickson, a pioneer amateur 
wireless experimenter and now an expert for one of the 



A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT 



223 



PRIVATE WIRELESS TELEGRAPH STATION 

10 OKRtTlO BT LOUTU IT 

AEROGRAM 



>nT.. 



RECEIVED It tha Privatt WIrelen Stltlofl. 



large commercial companies, they are making remark- 
able progress. At the regular meetings lectures upon 
the subject are given, and all details about which any 
of the members have had difficulty in understanding 
are clearly explained. Each member is furnished with 
a large code card, 
upon which the 
Morse and Conti- 
nental codes are 
printed in large 
type, and a sheet 
containino^ a call 
list of all the mem- 
bers ; and so that 
he may be strictly 
up-to-date he is supplied with aerogram blanks (Fig. 299) 
and envelopes. 

Some of the boys in one of the suburbs have opened 
up 

Amateur Commercial Stations and transmit aerograms 
at the rate of ten words for 5 cents, which might be a 
good way of earning money if it were not for the 
almost universal installation of the telephone. Still, the 
novelty of sending an aerogram might make it possible 
to obtain enough business to make such a venture pay. 

Mr. Dickson, who, by the way, was a schoolmate of the 
author, probably knows better than any one else about 
the difficulties which an amateur experiences in installing 



Fig. 299. — Form of Aerogram Blank used by the 
Bovs of "The Chicago Wireless Club." 



224 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

a wireless outfit, and, realizing that he could give you 
boys the most practical suggestions, the author succeeded 
in getting him to consent to work up and describe for 
you the material presented in this chapter. The illustra- 
tions have been made directly from the models furnished 
by him, and some of these models, boys, have been tested 
out on one of the large lake boats. Many of the pub- 
lished articles on wireless outfits describe parts of the 
equipment which are very difificult for a boy to make, — 
such as the construction of an induction-coil, — and a 
boy undertaking the work is often' discouraged before 
it is more than half completed, or finds after he has 
finished it that it will not operate. Mr. Dickson's 
suggestions wiU be found easy to carry out, and the 
apparatus will work splendidly. 

The illustrations show, besides the pieces which you 
can make, the best forms of the parts which must be 
purchased. 

Before undertaking the construction and installation 
of the wireless instruments, you should know something 
about 

The Fundamental Principles of Wireless Telegraphy. 
Throughout all space a substance is supposed to exist, 
though nothing definite is known about it, and this sub- 
stance, which is colorless, odorless, and without weight, 
and called ether, is supposed to have remarkable qualities 
for transmitting vibrations through space. You boys 
have noticed how when a moving boat disturbs the sur- 




1\U>^>'V\\\\^^V\\\ 



Fig. 300. — A Good Way to arrange the Wireless Instruments upon a Table 
in your Room. (See Wiring Diagram, Fig. 325.) 



225 



226 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

face of a body of water, the disturbance is communicated 
in the form of waves to the surrounding water, and that 
all other craft within range of these waves start to bob 
up and down as soon as they are reached. Now, just for 
example, let us imagine that a body of water is the ether 
I have been telling you about, that there are a number 
of yachts, motor boats, and other craft at anchor, and that 
each of these is the aerial of a wireless telegraph station. 
Then let us suppose that one of the boats in the midst 
of the others weighs anchor and gets under way, and 
that the resulting action upon the water represents the 
transmitting of a message through the ether, and each 
wave which rolls out from the wake of the passing boat 
represents a dot or dash of a message, and you will get 
a pretty good idea of how a wireless message travels ; 
but the waves in the ether (they are known 2J^ electromag- 
netic or Hertzian waves) travel very rapidly, so rapidly, in 
fact, that they are recorded practically the instant that 
the electric discharges are made, no matter what length 
of space they have to travel through. 

Electricity is used by which to produce the waves in 
sending a wireless message, and in our small outfit this 
is obtained from batteries, the current from which is 
passed through an induction-coil to increase the voltage 
and then jumped across the space between the ends of 
two metal rods of a piece of apparatus known as a spark- 
gap, producing a spark whose duration determines the 
dot and dash (these are used in " wireless " just the same 



A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT 227 

as in the codes of the ordinary telegraph). The current 
is then carried by the wires to the aerial wires and there 
discharged in all directions, in the form of long and short 
discharges. The earth has a great capacity for electricity, 
and electricity will run through anything connected to 
it that is of a proper conducting material. Therefore, 
when the waves produced by the discharges from an 
aerial spread out, all the aerials within their range which 
are grounded receive them just the same as the lightning- 
rod receives the lightning discharges, and the current 
runs down into the ground in the same way that a bolt 
of lightning runs down a lightning-rod into the ground. 
The long and short discharges are recorded by means of 
telephone receivers after they have been regulated by a 
number of pieces of apparatus, which will be taken up 
later. 

The first thing to consider is 

The Aerial or antenncB, The success of the whole 
undertaking rests so much upon this that it ought to 
be the best that can possibly be made. With a good 
aerial results can be secured even with inferior instru- 
ments, but the most excellent instruments will not re- 
spond when connected to a poor aerial. Two things 
should be figured upon, the height and the length. Each 
is important, and the longer and higher the aerial is, the 
better the results will be. It should be at least 30 feet 
high at one end and at least 50 feet long. It may be 
vertical, horizontal, or slanting, but usually the best re- 



228 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



suits are obtained when it is supported horizontally or 
slanting between two supports (Fig. 301). A very satis- 
factory aerial is one which is 70 or 80 feet long and 50 




Fig. 301. — The Length of the Aerial Mast can be reduced by erecting it upon 
a Roof. Use Two Masts if One End cannot be supported as Above. 

feet or more high. With such an aerial and the instru- 
ments described upon the following pages receiving can 
be accomplished within a radius of several hundred 
miles. Of course the dimensions of the aerial will 
necessarily depend upon the character of the place, and 
if the masts are erected upon the housetop or the roof 
of a shed, the height can be obtained with shorter ma- 
terial (Fig. 301). 

The aerial should have not less than six strands of 
wire, and eight or ten are better, and these should be 



A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT 



229 



spaced i foot apart (Fig. 302). A six-strand aerial will 
require a spreader at each end 5 feet 6 inches long and 
an eight-strand aerial will require one 7 feet 6 inches 




TMtSE wlBtS SHO 



SPACED 1 fOOT 



50 FEET LONG - 

z:::^ 




Fig. 302. — How to construct a Six- wire Aerial or Anten7icE. 

long. These can be made of any light, strong pieces of 
wood. The heavy end of a bamboo fish pole furnishes 
excellent material as it is very light as well as tough and 
strong. The wires should not be fastened directly to 
the spreader, but first to an insulator as shown in Fig. 
302. Ordinary porcelain cleats (Fig. 303) make excel- 
lent insulators and cost less than i cent a piece, but if 
you cannot get these, necks of bottles may be used in- 
stead. After the wires have been fastened to the 
spreaders as shown in 
the diagram of Fig. 302, 

and ropes have been Fig. 303. -Porcelain Fig. 304. — Battery 
attached to screw-eyes ^leat. Porcelain insulator. 

screwed into the spreaders near the ends, rope stays 
must be run from these ropes back to the spreaders as 
shown in Fig. 302 ; otherwise, the spreaders will bow in 
at the center and cause the center wires to slacken. 

Any sort of wire, except iron or steel, may be used, 
and this may be bare or insulated. Bare wire is cheaper, 



230 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

of course, but sometimes the builder may have insulated 
wire on hand that can be used to advantage. The wire 
should not be smaller than No. i6 B. & S. gauge, and larger 
wire is better, No. 14 being standard for small outfits. 

The wire leading in from the aerial must be insulated 
very carefully at the point where it enters the house, 
by passing it through a porcelain insulator. A battery 
insulator (Fig. 304) will serve the purpose. Figure 300 
shows how a hole may be bored through the top rail of 
the upper window sash large enough to receive the in- 
sulator. This wire must be supported on insulators 
wherever support is necessary, all the way from the aerial 
to the instruments. 

The Masts which support the aerial should be equipped 
with pulleys, like rigging a flagpole, so that the aerial 
may be hoisted or lowered at any time for repairs. 
Clothes-line pulleys such as are shown in Fig. 208 (page 
171) and a stout hemp clothes-line may be used for the 
rigging. The poles must, of course, be braced very 
strongly with wire stays (Fig. 301), and it is a good idea 
to set in turnbuckles (see H and /, Fig. 212, page 174) 
so that the stays may be kept taut. If one end of the 
aerial can be run down to the house and fastened to 
the window-frame, as in Fig. 301, of course only one 
mast will be necessary. 

Grounding the Aerial. When not in use, the aerial 
should be disconnected from the instruments, and be 
connected to the ground wire, as a precaution against 



A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT 231 

lightning. The ground wire is fastened to a water-pipe 
or to a metal rod driven 6 feet or more into the ground, 
or in one of the other ways described below. A good 
ground connection is one of the essentials of a wireless 
outfit. In cities a water-pipe makes an excellent ground, 
but where none of these are installed, other means must 
be adopted. A pump with a pipe extending down to a 
deep well will be satisfactory, or a metal plate placed in 
any stream or lake and connected to the instruments will 
work very well. If none of these are available, connec- 
tion must be established by digging down to moist earth, 
embedding a sheet of metal of 10 square feet or more of 
surface, and then pouring several bucketfuls of brine 
upon it before replacing the earth dug from the hole. 
The buried plate may be of any metal except iron or 
steel. 

A wire should extend from the switch of the instru- 
ments to the £-round w'lYQ {Fig. 325). 

Instead of removing the aerial wire from the instru- 
ments after use, and connecting it to the ground wire, a 
handier scheme is to get a double-throw, single-pole k7iife 
switch and connect it between the aerial and the double- 
throw, double-pole knife switch shown in Figs. 325 and 
331. This switch has three connections instead of the 
six on the double-throw, double-pole switch, and the aerial 
is connected at the center, the ground at one end, and 
the wire from the aerial connection on the switch shown 
in Fig. 325 to the other end. 



232 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



As many boys are satisfied with a receiving set only, 
this will be described first. 

A Good Receiving Outfit consists of one or a pair of 
telephone receivers^ detector, tuning-coil, and condenser, to 
which a potentiometer and a dry battery and a second 
condenser must be added when a detector of the micro- 
phone type is used. Of these 

The Telephone Receivers must be purchased ; the 
remaining instruments can be made by any boy. The 
cheapest good telephone receivers, consisting of two 

receivers mounted on a 
head-band with a double 
connecting cord (Fig. 305) 
cost about $4, while a 




-TO TUN I NC- 
Coil-Slideb 

TO- Detector 

bRTOBATTERV i 
NO POTENTIOMETEiy 




Fig. 305. — A Good 
Pair of Telephone 
Receivers with 
Head-band and 
Cord. 



Fig. 306.— 
A Single 



single receiver without a 
head-band (Fig. 306) can 
be bought for about $2. 
When buying a single re- 
Receiver, ceiver, take care to get one 
that is a part of a double 
set, so that you may add 
the other parts as you can afford them, and thus make up 
a complete set without having any unused parts left over. 
The ordinary receiver such as is used on telephones is 
not at all sensitive enough. The receiver should be one 
especially made for " wireless " and should have 1000 
ohms resistance (see Ohm, on page 252). An ordinary 
receiver may be used until a " wireless " one can be 



A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT 233 

obtained, and interesting results can be secured with it, 
but as so much depends on a good receiver, most experi- 
menters have a pair and pride themselves on possessing 
a very sensitive set. 

There are a great many types of 

Detectors, some of v^hich require a battery in con- 
nection, while others work better without. The detector 
is necessary to change the "wireless" waves into such 
form that will enable the telephone receivers to render 
them audible, so that each wave will sound like a buzz 
and be distinguished easil3^ 

The very best detector is the silicon type, but as 
silicon can be obtained only at certain supply houses, 
and as the experimenter is usually anxious to proceed 
without delay, descriptions of some good detectors 
made of easily obtainable materials will be given first. 

For making one form of 

Microphone Detector, you will require two flat carbons 
from dry batteries, a wood base about -| inch by 3 inches 
by 4 inches, four binding-posts (these may be taken from 
carbons of old dry batteries), some strips of brass, 
copper, or tin, a needle, and a paper fastener, or other 
small piece of metal, for a weight. 

Figure 307 shows the completed detector and Fig. 
308 how the pieces of carbon should be cut from the 
battery carbons, how their ends should be tapered to 
a sharp edge with a file, and how the brass, copper, 
or tin strips should be cut and bent. Cut the carbon 



234 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



pieces ij inches high and the brass pieces 2 J inches 
long by the width of the carbons. Cut the projecting 
tips shown on the top edge of the brass pieces, 
as a means of preventing the needle which spans the 
space between the carbons from being knocked off, 



File End to a 
^ Sharp edge thus 




Fig. 307 



5e"ctio(si 

Fig. 309. 
Fig. 307. — A Home-made Microphone Detector. 

(See Fig. 326.) 
Fig. 308. — How to prepare the Carbon and Brass Pieces. 
Fig. 309. — Section showing how to fasten the Pieces Together. 

and make the edge between the tips lower than the 
carbon tops (see Fig. 309), as the needle must rest 
on the carbons only, and not touch the metal anywhere. 
Punch holes through the brass pieces in the proper 
places for connecting them to the carbon pieces, and 
make others for connecting them to the base block. 
The carbons should be placed parallel and about i 
inch apart. The needle should be considerably longer 



A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT 



235 



than the distance between its bearing points, and the 
paper fastener, or other metal weight, should be placed 
at the center to make it bear upon the carbons with the 
right amount of pressure. By varying the weight the 
most satisfactory adjustment can be found. In no case 
should the weight be heavy, for if it is, the detector 
will not operate at all. If you bend the needle slightly, 
it will be easier to keep it in position. The proper 
method of connecting the detector to the other instru- 
ments is shown in Figs. 307 and 326. 

A Razor Blade Microphone Detector requires a base of 
the size specified for the other detector, two old blades 
from a safety razor, four binding-posts, two strips of 



^TO TUNriMG-CoiLSLIOER 

Also to tecephone- 
KeCErvEBS 



TO POTENTIOMETER Slider 
TO Condenser no.2 -, 





Sapety-RazobvBlade ^^-i 

^ Fig. 311. 




Fig. 310. 

Fig. 310. — A Safety-razor Blade Microphone Detector. 

(See Fig. 326.) 
Fig. 311. — How to prepare the Brass Pieces. 

brass, copper, or tin, and a No. 3 lead-pencil. This 
detector is shown in Fig. 310. 

The metal strips should be cut and bent as shown 
in Fig. 311, and holes should be punched through 



236 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

the upper part opposite the center hole in the razor 
blade and in the center of the lower part, as shown, 
for connecting the blades to the strips and the strips 
to the block by means of the binding-posts. When 
completed, this detector will resemble, somewhat, the 
one previously described, the razor blades being placed 
parallel and about i inch apart. The No. 3 pencil 
should be split open, the graphite removed, and a piece 
of it placed across the blades just as the needle w^as 
placed across the carbons in the other detector. The 
projecting tips 'should be cut on the brass pieces, as 
shown, to prevent the graphite from rolling off. If 
the pencil is soft, the detector will not restore, that is, 
after a "wireless" wave has actuated it, it must be 
jarred or tapped before it will be ready for another 
wave ; and if the graphite is too hard, it will not be 
sensitive enough. The best degree of hardness is found 
in a No. 3 pencil. This detector is easily made and 
works well. 

The Silicon Detector is undoubtedly the best, and 
when the silicon has been obtained, it can be made 
very quickly. SiHcon is not expensive, a generous- 
sized lump usually being sold for 25 cents. Figure 312 
shows a simple form of this detector. 

The silicon should be held to a base block by a 
strip of brass having holes punched through it large 
enough for the bolt of a binding-post to stick through 
(Fig. 313), and a small piece of springy wire should 



A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT 



237 




Fig. 312. 

Fig. 312. — A Home-made Silicon De- 
tector. (See Fig. 325.) 

Fig. 313. — Strip of Brass with which 
Silicon is held to Binding-post. 

Fig. 314. — Bend a Piece of Wire like 
this and connect as shown in Fig. 312. 



be bent as shown in Fig. 314 and be secured at one 
end to the base block by a binding-post in such a 
way that the other end 



will press very lightly on 
the silicon-, as shown in 
Fig. 312. In using this de- 
tector the end of the wire 
which rests on the silicon 
should be moved around 
until the most sensitive 
spot is found. The ware 
must never bear heavily 
on the silicon. 

Since no two wireless 
stations, probably, have exactly the same size aerials, or 
exactly the same adjustment of the sending instruments, 
it would be very difficult for different stations to com- 
municate unless some arrangements were made to com- 
pensate for the differences in construction and adjust- 
ment. The simplest device for this tunings as it is 
called, is 

The Tuning-coil or Tuner. It is a very essential part of 
the outfit and should be constructed as soon as a detec- 
tor has been completed. 

The tuner consists of a single layer of wire wound 
upon a cylinder not less than 2^ inches in diameter. 
A rolling-pin is of just the right size, and the handles of 
the pin may be left on it to turn it by while winding on 



238 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

the wire, and sawed off afterwards. For a cylinder of 
this thickness, a length of 1 1 inches is necessary to secure 
a sufficient amount of wire. The tuner should be wound 
with copper wire not larger than No. 20 B. & S. gauge 
and not smaller than No. 24. Do not use cotton-covered 
wire or any other kind of insulated wire, if you can 
obtain that which is enameled. The latter is the very 
best, but as it can be obtained only from the larger 
supply houses, you may not be able to get it, in which 
case you will have to use bare wire. 

Before winding, give the core two coats of shellac ; 
this will form a yielding surface for the wire to cut into 
and will keep the wire in place even though the wood 
core shrinks after the coil has been completed. If you 
use enameled wire, simply fasten one end to the rolling- 
pin with a tack, near its end, and have an assistant turn 
the pin while you guide the wire on to it closely and 
neatly, until you reach the other end ; then secure the 
ware with another tack and cut it off, leaving about 12 
inches for connections. The bare wire will be a little 
more difficult to wind than the enameled wire, as it will 
be necessary to keep each turn from touching the adja- 
cent turn by winding a thick thread, or thin cord, in 
between the wire as is shown in Fig. 316, winding this 
thread on at the same time that you wind the wire. 
Even though this requires some patience, it is much bet- 
ter than winding the tuner with the ordinary cloth insu- 
lated wire and then attempting to scrape bare the strip 



A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT 



239 



along which the sliders run. After the tuner has been 
wound, give it two more coats of shellac (this not only 
adds to its appearance, but helps to keep the winding in 



Fig. 3 1 7. f^ 




Fig. 315.^ a Home-made Tuning-coil or Tuner. 

Fig. 316. — How to wind Thread between the Turns of Wire if Bare Wire is 

used. 
Fig. 317. — Prepare Two End Pieces like This. 
Fig. 318. — How the Sliders should be cut and bent. 
Fig. 319. — Use this Form of Binding-post. 

place), then cut off the handle ends of the rolling-pin. 
Two end pieces 2^ inches square and f-inch thick, 
with J-inch notches cut out of two corners (Fig. 317), 
should now be prepared and screwed to the ends of the 
cylinder, to support it and the slider rods. The rods 



240 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

should be of brass of the size marked in Fig. 315, and 
two ^-inch holes should be drilled through each near 
one end, and one |^-inch hole through each near the 
other end. The rod can be procured at almost any 
machine shop, and you can also get the holes drilled 
there for a few cents. 

The sliders should be made of thin but very springy 
sheet brass. Cut two pieces of the size shown in Fig. 
318, round off one end of each, and then bend the other 
end into a square sleeve, as shown, to fit over the slider 
rod, and bend the rounded end so that it will bear 
against the tuner and make contact with it. Each slider 
should have another very slight bend made in its upper 
face as shown, so as to form a spring that will keep the 
rounded end in perfect contact with the wire. When 
the sliders have been bent properly, slip them on to the 
rods and screw the rods to the end pieces with small 
round-head screws. If the tuner has been wound with 
enameled wire, the enamel must be scraped off carefully 
along the path of the slider, and if bare wire has been 
used, the shellac must be removed from the path of the 
sliders with sandpaper. The sliders must make good 
contact both with the square rod and the wire winding, 
or the wireless outfit will not operate. 

Fasten a one-hole binding-post such as is shown in 
Fig. 319 in the two remaining holes in the rods, and 
fasten an ordinary binding-post to one end piece as 
shown. Fasten the end of the wire winding to the last- 



A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT 



241 



mentioned post, and the apparatus will be ready for in- 
stallation. The proper connections are marked in 

Fig- 315. 

The Fixed Condenser. Unless one has a fair knowl- 
edge of electricity, it would be hard to explain to him 
the part played by the condenser; however, it makes 
such a big difference in the strength of the signals 
received that it is necessary to use one. When a micro- 




Cut 2 PIECES OF 

CARDBOARD AND 21 
SHEETS OF WRITING- 
PAPER Like this 




Fig. 321. 



Fig. 322. 
Figs. 320-322. — Details of a Home-made Fixed Condenser. 

phone detector is used, a second condenser must be wired 
up in connection with it as shown in the wiring diagram 
(Fig. 326). 

The materials required are a few sheets of tin-foil, 
which can be procured from any florist, some sheets of 
good writing-paper, cardboard, and some ordinary tire tape. 
Cut as^many sheets of cardboard and paper as is specified 
in Fig. 320, of the size shown, and the number of pieces of 
tin-foil indicated in Fig. 321 of the shape and size shown. 



242 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

Begin building up the condenser by placing one of the 
pieces of cardboard upon a flat surface; upon this lay a 
sheet of the paper, then on this place a sheet of the tin- 
foil with the tab projecting at the left end; over this lay 
another sheet of the paper, and then place another sheet 
of the tin-foil on top of this with the tab projecting at 
the right end. Continue to build up the condenser in 
this way, reversing the tab on the alternate layers of tin- 
foil (Fig. 322) until all of the sheets have been used. 
Over the top sheet of paper lay the second piece of card- 
board. Cut two pieces of insulated wire 12 inches or so 
in length, bare one end of each, run them through the 
ends of the cardboard top, and give them a couple of twists 
(Fig. 322); then carefully press together the projecting 
tabs on the tin-foil, and wind the bared ends of the wires 

around them as shown on the 
right end in Fig. 323. By run- 
ning the wires through the card- 
board as directed, whatever strain 
^, ^. , ^ is brousfht to bear upon the ter- 

FiG. 323. — The Fixed Con- ... 

denser is completed by cov- minal wires will come upon the 
ering it as above with Bicycle cardboard and not the delicate 

Tape. (See Figs. 32s and 326.) . • 1 • 

tm-roil. With the termmal wires 
in place wrap the entire condenser with tire tape, begin- 
ning at one end as shown in Fig. 323, and lapping each 
turn partly over the previous turn. One of these con- 
densers should be connected directly across the telephone 
receivers as shown in Figs. 325 and 326, and when a 




A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT 



243 



microphone detector is used, a second condenser should 
be set in between the detector and the switch (Fig. 326). 

If you have constructed the siHcon detector first and 
do not care to use any of the other forms described, it 
will not be necessary to make 

A Potentiometer, but with a microphone detector you 
will require one. Its purpose is to regulate with great 
precision the battery current in the receiving circuit. It 
is made like the tuner, except that it has only one slider 
instead of two and is much smaller (Fig. 324), and must 




Fig. 324. — A Home-made Potentiometer. 
(See Fig. 326.) 

be wound with German-silver wire instead of copper. 
This wire will not be expensive to buy, as about two 
ounces will be enough, and this amount costs about 
25 cents. A piece of a i^-inch curtain- or rug-pole 8 
inches long is of ample size for the cylinder. 

Wind the cylinder with a layer of No. 24 bare German- 
silver wire, separating the turns with thread wound in 
between as directed for the bare-wire tuner (Fig. 316). In 
the tuner only one end of the winding was connected to a 



244 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



binding-post, but in making the potentiometer each end 
of the wire must be attached to a binding-post. Give 




Where Silicon Oetectob is used 
A Potentiometer and Battebv 

ARE NOT NECESSARV- (SEE FlG.326) 



Receiving Set 



ooeeo 

Batterv 



10 Drv Cells im Sep 



Transmitting Set 



Fig. 325. — Complete Wiring Plan — when a Silicon Detector is used. 

the coil a couple of coats of shellac, then make a rod and 
slider similar to the ones made for the tuner ; screw the 
rod in place to the end pieces and fasten a binding-post 
to its end. The slider must make good contact with 
both the wire and the slider rod. 

This completes the receiving instruments. They 
should be arranged upon a board or table in some such 
manner as shown in Fig. 300 and wired up as shown in 
Fig. 325 or Fig. 326, according to which form of detector 
is used. With either receiving set you should be able 
to hear commercial companies for a distance of a hundred 
miles, with the proper aerial, and all amateur stations in 
your vicinity. The arrangement of the instruments is 
discussed upon page 248. 



A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT 



245 



The Transmitting Outfit is more expensive than the 
receiving set, for nearly all of the instruments have to be 




OGGGG 

Battery 
10 orv cells in'series-paraixel 



Receiving Set 



Transmitting Set 



Fig. 326. —Complete Wirino; plan — when a Microphone Detector is used. 

purchased, as they are too complex to make. The out- 
fit consists of an induction-coil (spark-coil)^ spark-gap^ 
battery, key, and switch. 

The Induction-coil (Fig. 327) consists of a few layers, 
usually three or four, of a large size of insulated copper 




iATTEBv Zinc 



^^PRlMARV 




TO- Battery^ 



Fig. 327. — An Induction-coil 
or Spark-coil. 



Fig. 328. — How to make a Spark-gap 
on Coil Box with Battery Zincs. 



wire wound upon a core of soft, bare-iron wires ; this 
first winding is called the primary. Over this is wound 



246 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



a great many turns, in many layers, of a very fine wire; 
this is called the secondary. As explained in the first 
part of the chapter, it is necessary to have a spark with 
which to send out " wireless " waves. The dry cells 
alone are not capable of producing the right kind of 
spark as their voltage is too low. But by sending a cur- 
rent of a few volts' pressure through the primary of the 
coil another current of quite high voltage will be induced 
in the secondary ; in fact, the voltage will be sufiicient to 
cause the electricity to jump across a considerable gap, 
depending on the size of the coil. Coils are usually rated 
according to the length of spark they are capable of 
giving. The coil will not operate on a continuous cur- 
rent, so an interrupter is used in connection with the 
primary. 

A i-inch coil costs about $5, and with a good aerial, 
will send several miles. A |-inch coil is only a little 
cheaper than the i-inch, while its sending radius is less 
than one half as much. 

The Spark-gap can be made by binding two battery 



toSeconoarv c 




Fig. 329. — A Home-made Spark-gap. 

zincs on the secondary terminals of the spark-coil, as 
shown in Fig. 328, or a simple frame may be made to 



A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT 247 

hold the zincs, as shown in Fig. 329. If you make a 
frame, set in a couple of screw-eyes as shown for set- 
screws. 

The induction-coil may be operated by dry cells or a 
storage battery. 

A Storage Battery is expensive in first cost, but more 
satisfactory and cheaper in the end. Sometimes a good 
second-hand one can be bought cheap at a near-by 
garage. 

Dry Batteries, or dry cells, can also be obtained from a 
garage, where they are discarded when too weak to spark 
an automobile ; these are still plenty good enough for 
the "wireless" coil. The i-inch coil will require five 
dry cells, but if another five can be obtained, they should 
also be used. Instead of connecting all ten in series, 
that is, connecting the carbon of each to the zinc of the 
one next to it (Fig. 333), connect each ^n^ in series 
and then connect the end cells in parallel, or multiple; 
that is, connect the carbons of one pair of end cells 
and the zincs of the other pair of end cells (Figs. 325 
and 333). This form of connection is known as series- 
parallel. When all the zincs are joined together, also 
all the carbons, the connection is called parallel, or 
multiple (Fig. 333). If five cells are used in a series 
and you wish to add more cells, you must add another 
complete set of five, as there must be the same number of 
cells in each series. 

The dots and dashes of the telegraph code are made on 



248 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

The Wireless Key (Fig. 330), which makes the spark 
jump for a longer or shorter period of time according to 
how pressed. A good cheap key costs about 50 cents, 
a full brass key about $1. 

As the aerial is used alternately for sending and re- 
ceiving, some means must be employed for connecting 



ToBatterv> 





To- Ground 



Fig. 330. — A Good Form of FiG. 331. — A Double-throw, 

Wireless Key. Double-pole Knife Switch. 

the sending instruments and then in turn the receiving 
instruments. This is accomplished by 

The Knife Switch shown in Fig. 331, known as a 
double-throw, double-pole hiife switch. This will cost be- 
tween 30 and 50 cents, according to where purchased. 
The connections are marked upon the illustration of the 
switch and are also shown upon the wiring diagrams 
(Figs. 325 and 326). 

By studying the diagrams you will find the manner 
of connecting up all the instruments clearly indicated. 
This should not be done until after they have been ar- 
ranged upon a board or table. Figure 300 shows 

A Good Arrangement for the Instruments if you wish to 
have them in your bedroom, and that is where most boys 
generally keep them so that they are always within easy 
reach.* If you haven't a desk or table in your room, you 
can construct one similar to one of those illustrated in 



A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT 249 

Chapters VI and IX. The idea is to place the instruments 
where they can be operated handiest. Screw the base of 
each instrument to the table to keep it in position. 

Operation of Instruments. When the key of the trans- 
mitting set is pressed, the vibrator on the end of the 
spark-coil box will buzz, and a shower of sparks will 
jump across the gap between the zincs of the spark-gap. 
When the aerial and ground are not connected to the 
spark-coil, it will give a long spark (about i inch if it is 
rated as a i-inch coil), provided the battery is strong 
enough; but when the aerial and ground are attached, — 
one to each secondary binding-post of the coil, — it will 
be impossible to get a spark longer than J inch, as the 
aerial and ground will be acting as a "capacity"; that is, 
the coil will be carrying a " load." If the coil gives a 
good spark with the ground connection, but no spark at 
all when connected to the aerial, it shows that the insula- 
tion of the wire leading in from the aerial is defective 
somewhere. This wire must be supported on insulators 
at every point from the aerial down to the switch. 

To Receive a Call. If two complete stations are erected 
within a few miles of each other, one station should begin 
calling the other at certain times previously agreed 
upon, while the operator at the station called should 
listen carefully through his receivers, slowly moving 
backward and forward the sliders on his tuner and occa- 
sionally adjusting his detector until he hears the station 
calling him. When the station ceases calling, the receiv- 



250 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

ing operator should throw over his switch and answer. 
Each station should be designated by a call, usually the 
initials of the owner. The amateur should not do things 
in a haphazard way, but should become familiar with the 
regular practice used in commercial wireless stations. 
To receive government and commercial stations you 
must of course know their calls in order to be able to 
know who is calling. The electrical journals advertise 
pamphlets containing all the principal stations, which 
can be purchased for lo or 15 cents. 

To make a Call. Suppose station CGS wishes to call 
station CMW, He proceeds to call the letters CMW 
several times and at intervals signs his own call, like 
this : CMW CMW CMW, followed by a slight pause, 
and then CGS\ then he repeats the operation, finally 
ending by making J, which is the finish signal. When 
the operator at CMW picks up the call, he does not 
answer until he hears the J signal; then hearing nothing 
else, he knows definitely that the operator at CGS has 
stopped calling, has placed his switch in position for re- 
ceiving, and is waiting for him {CMW) to answer. 

Two Codes are used in " Wireless," the Morse code and 
the Continental code (Fig. 332). While there is not 
very much difference between the two, the Morse code 
is used almost entirely in this country and is the one you 
should learn. The dots and dashes of the code v/ill be 
heard through the receivers as short and long buzzes. 
Adjust the sliders on the tuning-coil until the signals 



A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT 251 

are heard the loudest, and adjust the sHder on the poten- 
tiometer in the same way if you use one in your receiv- 
ing set. Do not regulate the latter Morse continental 

so that the current from the battery J.". ^ S.7.. 
cell is too strong, for it is better to 11.'. d "^~' 

have it a little too v^eak than so strong .-. p 

that the detector will not operate. — h 

A Good Way to learn the Code is to — — o 

connect your telegraph key with an — l 

ordinary electric buzzer and one dry — n — 

cell. After the code has been memo- «=* 

rized, a friend can se7id on the buzzer • ** R — 
while you copy the message he sends ; ^"^ J ^"^2, 

then you may take your turn pending ;2IZ w '~ 
while he receives, A good buzzer costs 17.V y — .'ITL 
about 25 cents.. \'\,\ ^ 

In learning the code, the numerals, "~1' \ 

comma, period, and question mark, as 71"-." I .'-1111"1 

well as the letters, should be memo- 3 

rized, as it is a very great mistake to - — 5 

get a smattering of the alphabet and --"-'• 1 

neglect the punctuation and numerals. -- — 9 

Although any boy interested in ^ig. 332. - The Two 
"wireless" can successfully install and Codes used in wire- 
operate an outfit from the directions M^rs^'f^f Ys' g^n'- 
given, it will be a very great aid to eraiiy used in this 
visit, if possible, some amateur station, country, 
for the use and purpose of the different instruments will 



252 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

be better understood and many valuable ideas gained 
from seeing them in operation. 
While many units are used in 

Electrical Measurements, only three need be considered 
by the amateur operator. These are the volt, the ohm, 
and the ampere. 

The Volt is the unit of electrical pressure, 
The Ampere is the unit of current strength, and 
The Ohm is the unit of resistance. The latter is prob- 
ably most readily understood by those not familiar with 
electrical work. Any conductor of electricity, such as 
wire, sheet-metal, carbon-rod, etc., offers resistance just 
as the sides of a ditch offer resistance to water flowing 
through that ditch. If the ditch were made of smooth 
cement, the water would flow through it more readily 
than if the sides were of rough projecting logs. In the 
same way some substances have low resistance to elec- 
trical currents, while others have high resistance. Silver 
has the least resistance, copper comes next, iron has con- 
siderable, and an alloy, known as German silver, h^s so 
much that it is used for making resistance coils and for 
other purposes where resistance is required (see Poten- 
tiometer), 

Water will not flow in a ditch unless forced to do 
so. If the ditch ran down the hillside, of course the 
water would flow downhill in the ditch, and the steeper 
the hill, the greater the pressure would be. In the same 
way, electricity will not flow unless there is a pressure 



A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT 



253 



behind it, and the higher the pressure (voltage), the more 
readily it will flow. 

The ampere represents the broadness of the "ditch," 
that is, the depth and breadth of the " stream of water," 
as this is decidedly a differ- 
ent quantity tlian the pressure 
behind it. 

A better understanding of 
the volt and the ampere will 
be gained through practical 
work. The ohm is readily 
grasped when it is learned 
that about 150 feet of No. 18 
copper wire has a resistance 
of I ohm. 

Connection of Dry Batteries. 
Batteries, or, more properly 
speaking, dry cells, may be 
connected in series, parallel 
(also known as mtiltiple), or a 
combination of both ways, 
called series- parallel. These 
connections are described 
under Dry Batteries on page 247, and shown in Fig. 
333. Now for an application of the two units, volts 
and amperes. If the cells are connected in series, the 
whole set wdll have the combined voltage of all the cells, 
but the current in amperes will be only that of one cell 




10 DRV-CE-LLS WIRtD IN SERIES-PARALLEL' 

Fig. 333. — The Three Methods 
of Wiring Battery Cells. 

(Showing 5 cells and the voltage and 
approximate amperage obtained by 
each method.) 



254 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

(if the cells are alike and uniform) ; while, if the cells 
are all connected in parallel, the voltage will be that of 
only one cell, but the current strength, or amperage, will 
be equal to the combined amperage of all the cells. For 
example, if each dry cell is capable of giving 1.5 volts 
and 20 amperes, five cells connected in series (see Fig. 
333) would give 5 times 1.5 volts, or 7.5 volts, and 20 
amperes. If they were connected in parallel, there would 
be no change like this in the voltage, which would re- 
main 1.5 volts or the voltage of a single cell, but the cur- 
rent strength would be 5 times 20 amperes, or 100 am- 
peres (Fig. 333). 

It is not difficult to determine the result of connecting 
cells in series-parallel. In Figs. 325 and 333 there are 
ten cells connected in series-parallel, five cells in each of 
two series. Each set will give 7.5 volts and 20 amperes, 
but when the two sets are connected parallel, the com- 
bined output will be 7.5 volts and 40 amperes, which you 
will understand from the examples given. It must be 
borne in mind, however, that while a dry cell will give 
as high as 20 amperes by test, this is an excessive 
amount of current to draw from it and would exhaust it 
in a very short time. Four or 5 amperes is as much as 
should be used, and if more than this is required, the 
cells must be placed in series-parallel. As mentioned 
before, each series of a series-parallel combination must 
contain the same number of cells. For instance, a set 
of three cannot be put in parallel with a set of four, for 



A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT 255 

the voltage of the four set is greater than that of the 
three set, and a current would flow from the four set 
through the three set and in time exhaust the four set. 

The ordinary spark-coil requires considerable current, 
and it pays to lessen the heavy burden on the battery by 
using two series in parallel. Four cells may be used for 
each series, but five are better. 




About the best kind of show for a neighborhood of 
boys, a boys' club, or a school organization to give is one 
in which each boy can do a special act or " stunt." It 
may be an exhibition of magic-lantern views, a sleight- 
of-hand performance, panorama or puppet show, boxing- 
match, or one of an endless variety of entertaining acts. 
The strong man^ magical mortar^ boy with a wonderful 
voice, crack-shot, and ventriloqtiist acts described in this 
chapter are easy to prepare. 

Sam Dow, the strong man (Fig. 334), should wear a 
long-sleeved shirt with the shoulders and sleeves padded 
out to form large muscles, and should also pad the 
calves of his legs; if this padding throws the muscles 
out of their natural positions, so much the better. 

For the great act of 

Holding out a Chair upon which a Boy is seated, you will 
need an old seatless chair or a box with the ends 
knocked out and two uprights and crosspieces nailed to 
it for a back (Fig. 335). Drape the chair or box with 
a sheet or a piece of cloth of any kind large enough to 

256 



FOR A BOYS' VAUDEVILLE SHOW 



257 




Fig. 334. — Sam Dow, " The Strong Man," holding a Seated Boy at Arm's 

Length. 

hang down to the floor all around when the chair is held 

out at arm's length (Figs. 334 and 336), leaving the seat 

opening uncovered. Next get a pair of short trousers, 

stuff the legs, fasten a pair of stuffed stockings 

to the knees, fit the feet into a pair of shoes, 

and then fasten the legs to the chair, as shown 

in Fig. 336. The boy who is to appear to be 

seated upon the chair stands in the opening 

in the seat with the waist of the false trousers 

fastened and concealed under his coat (Fig. 334). 

While the chair stands on the floor, the bov ^ ^'^' ^^^\ 

•' Framework 

rests on his knees, but when the strong man of Chair. 




258 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



grasps the back of the chair with his hand and com- 
mences to lift, the boy slowly^ arises to his feet, taking 
the position shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 334. 

Two attendants should carry the chair on to the stage, 
and the " seated " boy should hold on to the sides and 

lift his feet so as to give the 
boys an actual load to carry 
in. After Sam Dow has 
held the chair by each hand, 
and then by one finger, the 
audience will be convulsed 
with laughter if the chair is 
allowed to remain in the air 
a few seconds after he has 
released his hold upon it. 
A great deal of additional 
Fig. 336. —The Draped Chair with fun Can always be furnished 

False Legs Attached. ^^ ^^^ audience by " giving 

away " the trick in some such manner after a perform- 
ance of this kind. 

The famous 

Dumb-bell Lifting Feat must not be overlooked. Make 
the 2000-lb. dumb-bell like that shown in Fig. 337, 
preparing each end out of two barrel-hoops crossed 
at right angles with the cross-piece A fastened in the 
center (Fig. 338). Make the handle out of a piece of 
curtain-pole or iron pipe ; if the latter is used, it can be 
struck by the strong man to show the audience that it 




FOR A BOYS' VAUDEVILLE SHOW 



259 



really is made of iron. Fasten the ends of the handle in 
holes bored through cross-pieces A. Cover the hoops 
with cloth, then on top of this place enough padding to 




Fig. 338. —How 
the Ends are 
Constructed. 



337. — The Strong Man's 
Heavy Dumb-bell. 



fill out the flattened portions and make them perfectly 
round, and cover the padding with black cloth. Paint 
the handle black and letter the weights upon the ends 
with white paint. 

A couple of boys should drag the dumb-bell on to the 
stage, then Sam Dow should demonstrate his strength 
by lifting it with each hand, holding it upon his chin, 
balancing it on end upon his head, lying down upon his 
back and lifting it with his feet, and lifting it with his 
teeth by means of a piece of rope tied around the 
handle. 



26o HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

The strong man may demonstrate his ability as a 
juggler by 

Juggling with Heavy Balls — croquet or bowHng balls 
covered with silver or black paper, and he should intro- 
duce as a special attraction 

Bonehead, the man with a head of solid ivory, upon 
which 500-lb. cannon-balls can be dropped without any 
apparent effect. Two balls of exactly the same size 
must be used in this stunt — an association foot-ball or a 
basket-ball for one, and a large bowling ball for the 
other are just the things if you can get them, otherwise 
use a croquet ball and a rubber ball of the same size. 
Cover the balls with black paper or tin-foil to make them 
look as nearly alike as possible. 

Sam Dow should first pick up the heavy ball and 
allow it to crash upon the stage floor to let the audience 
see that it is solid ; then he must pick up the rubber ball 
as though it were of the same weight and with an ap- 
parent effort toss it into the air so that it will land upon 
the head of Bonehead. Sam Dow should catch the ball 
as soon as it bounces off of Bonehead and toss it to one 
side of the stage out of view of the audience. A crack- 
ing sound should be made the instant the ball strikes 
Bonehead, and a louder crashing noise when Sam Dow 
throws it to one side. The strong man's stunts always 
make a big hit. 

The Magical Mortar (Fig. 339). Get a sugar barrel 
from your grocer and a packing-case about 30 by 30 by 



FOR A BOYS' VAUDEVILLE SHOW 



261 



40 inches in size at a dry-goods store, out of which to con- 
struct the mortar. If the barrel has wire hoops, fasten 
them to the staves with small staples ; if wooden hoops, 
fasten them to the staves with small nails. Knock out 
the bottom of the barrel and saw away part of one side, 
as shown in Fig. 
340, and cut away a 
little of one end of 
the box for end A of 
the barrel to fit in 
(Fig- 339);, set end 
B inside of the box 
(Fig. 339) and fasten 
its hoops {D, Fig. 
340) to the box sides. 
Make the bearing 
blocks as shown at 
C (Fig. 339) and tack 
a piece of cloth over end B and to the edges of the box. 
Cut a 20-inch opening in one side of the box for a door 
(see dotted lines. Fig. 339). 

The Professor exhibiting the mortar must have two 
assistants. No. i to operate the mortar from within the 
box, and No. 2 to wait upon him. For 

The Wonderful Hat Trick, the professor should take 
an old derby, fedora, or straw hat, a duplicate of which 
has been placed inside of the mortar, and in full view 
of the audience tear it into bits, then put the pieces 




Fig. 339. 
Fig. 339. — The Magical Mortar. 
Fig. 340. — How the Barrel is Cut. 



262 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

into a paper bag, throw the bag into the mortar, and 
shoot the hat from the mortar in a whole condition. 
Of course as the mortar is discharged assistant No. i 
throws out the duplicate hat, having first placed it 
in the bag after removing the pieces of the torn hat. 

The mortar is charged from the nail keg "powder 
cans " standing behind it, and the report is produced 
by having some one strike a piece of sheet-iron with 
a hammer. 

Other Mortar Stunts. The professor may place a 
dog in the mortar and fire out his "remains" in the form 
of a string of sausage, and transform all sorts of things 
in a similar manner. 

Assistant No. 2 should wear a false-face in order to 
be prepared for 

The Professor's Final Exhibition. Having run out of 
"gun powder," the professor sends assistant No. 2 for 
more, and after he has gone, moves the mortar to one 
side of the stage in such a position that assistant No. i 
can crawl out through the opening in the side. The 
professor no sooner turns around to the audience than 
there is the sound of a terrific explosion (strike a piece 
of sheet-iron with a hammer), and what appears to be 
the assistant's body is thrown upon the stage, with its 
head, arms, and legs dismembered. 

The professor mourns the loss of his assistant and 
" powder," then thinks of the magical mortar and 
announces that he will put the man together again. 



FOR A BOYS' VAUDEVILLE SHOW 263 

He gathers up the members of the body, places them 
in the mortar, goes out and rolls a barrel of " powder " 
on to the stage, and after moving the mortar back 
to the center of the stage, loads and discharges it. 
Instantly the assistant jumps forth whole and very 
much alive. Of course he crawls into the box, through 
the hole in the side, while it is over at one side of the 
stage. 

Make the Dummy Assistant, thrown in at the time of 
the explosion, out of old clothes, ripping off the sleeves 
and legs of a coat and pair of trousers and stuffing each 
part with newspapers. Make a stuffed head, and fasten 
upon it a false-face similar to the one worn by the assist- 
ant so the heads will look exactly alike. 

Falsetto, the boy with a wonderful voice, proved a 
great success in an amateur vaudeville. He stands 
in front of a curtain stretched across the stage, and 
back of this curtain are four assistants, — two boys, 
one with a bass, the other with a tenor voice, and 
two girls, one with an alto, the other with a soprano 
voice. Your sisters will probably be willing to help 
you out in this unseen part of the performance. 

At the left of the stage the young vocalist sings 
the first verse of a song in pantomime, while the as- 
sistant with the tenor voice stands directly behind him 
on the other side of the curtain and does the actual 
singing. Responding to the applause, — which he is 
certain to receive. Falsetto bows, walks over nearer 



264 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



the center of the stage, and goes through with the 
second verse in a soprano voice ; for the third verse 
he moves a little farther over to the right, and here 
his voice changes to bass ; and in an alto voice he 
sings the fourth verse at the extreme right of the 
stage. 

With a little practice a boy will be able to get the 
proper expression to the mouth ; and when well done 
you will find that this act will make one of the biggest 
hits of the show. 

The Ventriloquist who throws his voice into the mouth 
of a doll in such a way that it sounds to the audience 

as though the doll 
<^l were actually speak- 

ing is always a good 
entertainer. 

It is a simple mat- 
ter to make 

A Ventriloquist's 
Doll (Fig. 341), and if 
you haven't the power 
of throwing your voice 
and talking without 
moving your lips, you 
can obtain just about 
7T~ n ~ "I Tj 1 ^^ good results by 

Fig. 341.— The Ventriloquist operating the having an assistant 

Speaking Doll. behind a curtain back 




FOR A BOYS' VAUDEVILLE SHOW 



265 



of the doll do the talking while you operate the doll's 
head and mouth. 

Make the head framework (Fig. 342) out of i-inch 
strips, and buy a false-face for the face. Cut strip A 
4 inches long, B 
and C 9^ inches 
long, E 5 inches 
long, and i^ 16 2|^ 
inches long. 
Fasten the end 
of A between B 
and C, and center 
E upon B and C 
(Fig. 342). Cut 
the false-face as 
shown in Fig. 
343, tack the 
upper portion to 
strips A and E 




o 



Fig. 342. 



Fig. 343. 

Fig. 342. — Framework 
for Head of Ventrilo- 
quist Doll. 

Fig. 343.— The DolPs 
False-face. 

Fig. 344. — Complete 
Framework of DolPs 
Body. 




Fig. 344. 



at 1,2, and 3 (Figs. 342 and 343), and the chin to strip D 
at 4 ; pivot the end of D between strips B and C with a 
nail. With a little care in pivoting the jaw in place, 
the mouth will open and close to a nicety. Fasten 
a rubber band between A and D and a piece of string 
with a small ring tied to its end to the under side of 
D (Fig. 342). Set strip F between the lower end of 
B and C, and after fastening it in place whittle the 
lower part round as shown. 



266 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

Cut the body strips H and / (Fig. 344) 30 inches 
in length, the foot blocks / and K 6 inches long, and 
the shoulder cross-piece G 15 inches long. Nail the 
pieces together as shown, and fasten a barrel-hoop to 
strips H and 1 2X L\ bore a hole in the center of G 
large enough for the neck strip F to turn in. 

With the framework prepared it is a simple matter to 
put a suit of clothes upon it and stuff it out with rags 
and newspapers. Paste paper across the eye-openings 
and paint the pupils with water-colors ; build out the 
back of the head with paper and cover it with cloth. 
Fasten a collar and necktie around the doll's neck and 
a pair of stuffed gloves in the ends of the sleeves for 
hands. Pin up the tails of the coat, so you can reach 
the end of stick F, and slip your finger through the cord 
jaw-manipulator. 

Prepare a conversation to carry on with the doll, select 
several songs for him to sing, and request your audience 
to talk with him. The success of this act depends 
entirely upon how well the ventriloquist manipulates the 
head and jaws of the doll and keeps the movements in 
time with the talking assistant. If there is enough 
space behind the curtain for the assistaijt to walk from 
side to side of the stage, the ventriloquist may carry the 
doll about. 

Willie Shute, the crack shot of the world, shoots por- 
traits upon targets, an act which will interest any 
audience. 



FOR A BOYS' VAUDEVILLE SHOW 



267 



The Targets are easy to prepare. For these get some 
fresh pieces of heavy manila wrapping-paper at the 
grocery store. Sketch a simple outline of a head 
(Fig. 345) upon one sheet, then get a piece of small brass 
tubing (an old gas-burner will do) and file one end to a 




^ 



^••sawr**^ 



Fig. 348. 










— -- — 1 




H.'-.i' 


f 


I^=— -=1 



:=• : 



Fig. 346. Fig. 345. Fig. 347. 

Fig. 345. — The Outline of the " Portrait " shot out by " Willie Shute." 
Fig. 346. — The Reverse of the " Portrait " showing the Paper Strips over 

the Holes. 
Fig. 347. — The Blank Paper which the Audience first sees. 
Fig. 348. — Blunderbuss made for " Willie Shute." 

sharp cutting edge. Lay the sheet upon a piece of lino- 
leum, and, with the tubing as a punch and a hammer to 
strike it, punch out holes along the sketched outline 
(Fig. 345). Lay this punched sheet upon another sheet 
of the same kind of paper and mark the location of each 
hole, then cut away all except enough to cover the 
holes. Tack the punched sheet upon a wooden frame, 



268 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

stretching the paper as tight as possible, then fasten the 
cut-out portion of the second sheet over the back of the 
holes with small paper strips (Fig. 346). Make several 
portraits, also write out the names of a few of the audi- 
ence whom you expect, and for a final stunt have a target 
on which to shoot the words " Good Night ! " 

The frames should be set in a row upon a table and 
be surrounded by draperies to conceal the assistant be- 
hind them. The light should be thrown upon the targets 
from in front, to prevent the holes from showing as a 
result of shadows. 

Willie Shute announces that he will shoot the portrait 
of a boy upon the first target, then with a small gun he 
aims at the target and commences to cock and pull the 
trigger. As fast as the trigger snaps the assistant tears 
off the paper backing, beginning at A (Fig. 346). The 
audience will see nothing but a blank piece of paper at 
first (Fig. 347), but as each hole is uncovered it will show 
up black (Fig. 345). With 

A Blunderbuss made by fastening a tin funnel upon the 
end of a toy gun (Fig. 348) an entire portrait can be 
made in one shot. If you haven't a toy gun, you can 
whittle one out of a stick and attach some kind of trigger 
that will make a clicking sound. 

A Program Board upon which to announce each act of 
your performance is shown in Fig. 349. Make the board 
12 inches by 18 in size, and cut strips A and B 16 inches" 
long and C and D 8 inches long. Paint the board white 



FOR A BOYS' VAUDEVILLE SHOW 



269 



and letter the word " Program " across the top with black 
paint. Cut the '' number'' slips 4 inches by 19, out of 
cardboard, and letter the names of the acts upon them. 



M. 



^ 



sPROGRAM 



SAM DOW 



B 



Hang this board at 
one side of the stage 
where an attendant 
can reach it easily 
to change the num- 
ber slips. 

Have the boy 
who owns a print- 
ing-press 

Print the Admission Tickets, with the type set up in the 
form used for theater tickets. 



O 



Fig. 349. — A Program Board. 




ffi^a 



CHAPTER XVI 

MOVING PICTURES 




You may have your own moving pictures at home by 
making 

A Simple Machine such as shown in Fig. 350. This toy 
consists of a cardboard cyhnder with slots cut In its 
sides, which is mounted upon a wooden 
base fastened to the end of a stick, 
while the pictures are made on strips 
of cardboard and represent a man, horse, 
dog, or some other subject, in action, 
drawn in just the positions in which it 
would appear in a series of photographs 
taken in rapid succession. The strips of 
pictures are placed, one at a time, inside 
of the cylinder close to the sides and 
facing in, then the cylinder is whirled 
around by means of the stick upon which 
it is pivoted, and by looking through the slots. In the 
sides you see a number of men, horses, dogs, or what- 
ever the figures may be, moving just as they would appear 
upon the screen at a regular moving-picture show. 

270 




Fig. 350. — A Mov' 
ing-picture Machine 



MOVING PICTURES 



271 




The Wooden Base for the cardboard cylinder is the 
first thing to make (Fig. 351). Upon a piece of board 
about "I inch thick describe a 
circle 5J inches in diameter with 
a compass, or if you haven't a 
compass, hunt up a jug or china 
saucer of this diameter and mark 
out around its rim. With a scroll- 
saw or a coping-saw it will be 
easy to follow the circle in saw- 
ing out the base, but with a large 
saw it will be necessary to cut 
off first the four corners of the 
board close to the circle, then the 
eight corners thus produced, then 
the sixteen corners, and so on 
until it is as round as you can get it, and then finish off 
the edge with a chisel and sandpaper. 

Bore a |-inch hole through the center of the base, 
then get a lead-pencil 6 inches long (or whittle a stick to 
the same size) and three spools, two of which will fit 
tight upon the pencil and the third loose. The holes 
in spools of different shapes vary a trifle in size, so prob- 
ably you will find that mother or sister has just what 
you want. Push the upper end of the pencil through 
spool A so that about \ inch projects (Fig. 352), cover 
it and the top of the spool with glue, and stick it through 
the hole bored in the base (Fig. 351); then press spool 



Fig. 351. — The Base for the 

Cardboard Cyhnder. 
Fig. 352. — The Spool and 

Pencil which are glued to 

the Base. 



272 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



A against the base until it is glued fast. Slip spool B 

on to the pencil and glue spool Con to the end (Fig. 354). 

For the Cylinder get some light-weight cardboard that 

will be easy to cut, mark out a piece 3^ inches wide and 



1 




J 
4 










P 


-If^ 


t Y^ 






CM 

1 








\ 4 ' 



Fig. 353. — Pattern for Cardboard Cylinders. 



16-I 



inches long (Fig. 353), and mark off the ten slots at 
equal distances apart. Cut out the cyHnder with a pair of 
shears or a sharp knife, then tack its 
lower edge to the edge of the wooden 
base, as shown in Fig. 354, and glue 
the ends of the cardboard together. 

The Clown and Ball Pictures (Fig. 
355) are shown four pieces, as are 

The Circus Horse and Hound Pictures 
(Fig. 356). Each set when joined 
together end to end will make a strip 
just lr»no- enough to reach around the 
inside the cylinder. They are 

' i.a ' ^ 1 size, so all you will have to 
do will e to trace them off upon a 
piece of transparent paper and then 
transfer them upon a piece of heavy 
paper or light-weight cardboard, plac- 




FiG. 354. —The Com- 
pleted Moving-picture 
Machine. 



MOVING PICTURES 



273 



ing the ends A, B, and C together so as to form a 
continuous strip. To hold the strips in place against 
the sides of the cylinder, drive a number of small brads 
into the top of the base just far enough away from the 
edge so the strips will slip between them and the cylin- 
der (Fig. 351). 

To operate the Toy, hold it by the middle spool with 
one hand and make the cylinder revolve by turning the 
bottom spool with the other hand (Fig. 350). 

The Automobile. Figure 357 shows a modern adapta- 
tion of an old form of optical illusion. Give the book 




Fig. 357. — Give the Book a Circular Motion and see the Automobile Run. 

a circular motion, at the same time looking steadily at 
the center of the picture, and the wheels will immediately 
appear to revolve and the machine to run. 

By cutting out a side view of an automobile from a 
magazine or newspaper advertisement and mounting it 






a; 




iB 



^ 






Fig. 355. — Moving Picture Set No. i. 



jr_.-i^ 



!l 



MiM 



^ 



Fig. 356. — Moving Picture Set No. 2. 
274 







^ 



Bi 





The Clown and Ball. 









Adapted from, Muybridge's " Animals in Motion.' 

The Circus Horse and Hound." 
275 



276 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



upon a piece of cardboard, then preparing two circular 
disks of the same size as the wheels with a series of con- 
centric circles inscribed upon them as shown in Fig. 357, 
and pasting these over the printed wheels, you will have 
this optical illusion in a more convenient form to handle 




Fig. 358. — The Revolving Wheels. The inner wheel runs in the opposite 
direction from the outer wheels. 

and in such shape that you can carry it about in your 
pocket to show to all your friends. 

Another interesting optical illusion is 

The Revolving Wheels shown in Fig. 358. By giving 
the book a circular motion and gazing at the center of 



MOVING PICTURES 



277 



the illustration the outer wheels will begin to revolve 
rapidly, just as those of the automobile did, and the inner 
wheel will turn very slowly in the direction opposite to 
that in which the outer wheels run. 

If you own a pair of compasses, you will find this illus- 
tration very easy to lay out upon a piece of paper or 
cardboard. The inner circle should be described first, 
then a larger circle upon which to locate the centers of 
the outer wheels should be drawn with the same center. 




Fig. 359. — A Boxing-match. Gaze steadily at the center of the picture, 
draw the book up to your face, and the boys will appear to come together ; 
lower and raise the book in succession, and you will see a lively boxing- 
match. 



2 78 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

and the radius of this larger circle will be the proper 
spacing for the centers of the wheels. 

An illusion of an entirely different kind but no less 
interesting is 

The Boxing-match shown in Fig. 359. The directions 
for looking at this are printed below the illustration. 

You may make cards with pictures of automobiles, 
motor cycles, and aeroplanes in similar positions, as it is 
easy to find side views of these machines in the adver- 
tisements in magazines; then when you have mounted 
these at the proper distance apart, you will have a set of 
moving pictures showing automobile and motor cycle 
smash-ups — which are now common occurrences — and 
airship collisions — -which we will probably witness 
within a short time. 




m^H 



CHAPTER XVII 

A SNOW BATTLESHIP 




Here, boys, is a new idea for a snow fight. A snow 
battleship is, in construction, really a snow fort, with the 
addition of turrets, conning-tower, funnels, mast, and 
fighting-tops (Fig. 360). This extra equipment is easy 
to make and adds greatly to the sport of a snow fight. 
A little carpenter work is necessary, but this is simple 
to do, and all sawing and a good portion of the nailing 
may be done indoors. The pieces may then be carried 
to the spot on which you are going to build the ship and 
set in place. 

The central portion of the ship, directly below the con- 
ning-tower and known as 

The Central Station, requires a framework such as is 

shown in Fig. 361. Out of any boards you can get 

make two frames similar to that shown in Fig. 362, 

driving three or four nails through each corner and 

clinching their ends. The corners may be braced with 

diagonal strips, but this is not necessary, for the frames 

will be held rigid enough when embedded in snow. Cut 

two boards 3 feet 6 inches long for the cross-pieces E 

279 



28o 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



and F, and enough boards of the same length with which 
to roof the top of the framework. 




»«i»^^>/ 



Fig. 361. — Framework of the Central Station. 



On the site selected for the battleship set up the two 
frames as shown in Fig. 361 ; fasten the cross-pieces 
E and F between them 2 feet above the ground, and 
nail roof board G in place; leave a space of 22 inches 

for the conning-tower, 
then roof the rest of 
-^ I the top with the boards 
you have cut for the 
purpose (Fig. 361). 

If there is plenty of 
snow, 

Build the Hull of 
your battleship alike 
on both sides, but if 
there is not enough 




Fig. 362. — Make Two Frames like This. 



A SNOW BATTLESHIP 281 

to do this, stand the framework against the fence or wall 
and build only one side. 

Figure 361 shows how the hull should be marked 
out in the snow with the sides converging toward the 
bow and stern. The inside of the bow should be 
about 7 feet from the central station framework, the 
inside of the stern about 4 feet from the framework. 
The illustration shows the stern end of the hull partly 
built up, and by this you will see how the sides should 
taper from a thick base to a thinner wall at the top. 
The inside of the walls should be straight, so as not 
to make the inside space too small, but you will find 
it much easier to build the wall roughly and then 
finish it off with a shovel afterward. 

Set a barrel in the bow for 

A Torpedo Tube (Fig. 363), and when the sides have 
reached a height of 30 inches, set the ends of a 4-foot 
board in them 2 feet forward of the central station (see 
H, Fig. 363) upon which to build the forward turret; 
at the same height set two or three boards into the 
walls inside of the framework, at / (Fig. 363), for the 
conning-tower platform. Build up the sides of the hull 
to a height of 3 feet 6 inches, and inclose the framework 
of the central station with a 5-inch wall of snow, leav- 
ing a passage fore and aft below cross-pieces E and F 
(Fig. 363) wide enough to crawl through. Offset the 
wall above the hull a trifle. 

Cover the top of the central station — 




282 



A SNOW BATTLESHIP 



283 



The Superstructure Deck — with enough snow to hide 
the boards. Build the wall of 

The Conning-tower 12 inches above the superstructure 
deck (Fig. 363), and that of 

The Forward Turret 12 inches above the sides of the 
hull; build 

The Midship Turret on to the side of the ship. The shap- 
ing of the conning-tower and turrets can be done with a 
shovel or a shingle. To lessen the 
apparent height of the hull, bank 
snow around the base (Fig. 363). 

The Mast should be about 1 1 feet 
long and can be made by splicing 
together a couple of curtain- or 
clothes-poles. 

For the Fighting-tops (Fig. 366) 
take two barrel-hoops, fasten a piece 
of 2-by-4 in each (Fig. 364), and 
bore a hole in the center large enough 
for the mast to slip through. Tack 
a 4-inch rim of cardboard around the 
hoops and cover the bottoms with 
the same material (Figs. 365 and 
366). Wire pieces of broom-handle 
to the cross-pieces for 

Rapid-fire Guns (Fig. 365). The 
fighting-tops should be supported upon trestletrees — two 
blocks of wood tied or nailed to the mast (Fig. 366). 




Fig. 364. 
Figs. 364, 365, and 366. 
— Construction of the 
Fighting-tops. 



284 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



Fasten the upper top 3 feet below the masthead, and the 
lower one 2 feet 6 inches below that. 

The Crosstree should be 2 feet long ; tie it securely at 
its center to the mast at /(Fig. 363). 

Make a Coach-whip Pennant out of wrapping-paper 
or cloth to fly from the masthead, and to one of the 
maslstays, which should be fastened to the 
masthead and to the ends of the crosstree, 
fasten three or four 

Paper Signal Flags (Fig. 363). Pictures 
of these flags, in color, may be found in an 
encyclopedia. 

After rigging up the mast, run it 18 
inches into the wall of the conning-tower 
and tie the ends of the maststays to stakes 
driven into the snow. 

Make a Union Jack for the bow of the 
ship and 

A National Ensign for the stern, and tack 
them upon sticks for staffs. 

The Construction of the Funnels is shown 
in Fig. 367. Unfasten four barrel-hoops and 
make them 12 inches in diameter, and cut twelve sticks 
3 feet 6 inches long. Nail the sticks to the inside face of 
the hoops (Fig. 367), then cover the framework with 
heavy wrapping-paper. Place these funnels upon the 
deck as shown in Fig. 363, and pack enough snow around 
their bases to hold them in position. For 




Fig. 367. 
Framework of 
the Funnels. 



w- ../. 




Fig. 231. 
A EouND Center-Table. 



Fig. 338. 

A J^CK-IN-THE-BOX. 




Fig. 229.— The Skeleton of Fig. 233.— A Square-Seated Chair. 

THE JaCK-IN-THE-BoX. 



A SNOW BATTLESHIP 285 

Ventilators procure a couple of stovepipe elbows. 

Stovepipe or pieces of fence-posts may be used for your 

Main-battery Guns, two of which should be placed in 
each turret. Cut three 8-inch portholes in the sides 
of the hull for peepholes, and make four depressions 
or recesses, as shown, for the 

Secondary-battery Guns, which may be pieces of broom- 
handle. 

Figure 363 shows the interior of your ship while in 
action. This illustration will suggest 

The Arrangement of Amunition Stores, the idea being to 
keep the main supply of snowballs in baskets and boxes 
in the central station — the magazine — and from these 
to fill the pockets and baskets in the turrets and on 
the deck. 

The Captain of the Ship, whom you must choose before- 
hand, will command from the conning-tower (Fig. 363), 
and must appoint the other men to their respective places 
on the forward deck, in the forward turret, the central 
station, and aft. He also selects the boy torpedo boats. 

For a Naval Battle there should be at least two ships 
built with broadsides opposite (Fig. 363). Of course 
you can have a land and naval battle if the enemy 
prefer to build a fort, but there will be more fun with 
battleships. Certain 

Rules must be observed in a snow fight, just as in 
any other boys' game, and the rules for a naval battle 
will differ somewhat from those of a snow-fort battle. 



286 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

The main object of this game is to inflict as much 
damage as possible upon the enemy's ship (nothing but 
snowballs being allowed), and to capture and sink the 
" torpedo boats." A battleship is sunk if its mast is 
knocked to the ground. If neither ship is badly disabled 
when it is necessary to discontinue action for any reason, 

A White Flag of Truce should be displayed by each 
side, and during this period of truce you can all set to 
work and repair the ships. 

The "Torpedo Boats" furnish the only means of attack 
at close range. Each side should have two of these 
— two boys who must each wear a small flag stuck in 
his cap, as shown in Fig. 360. The " torpedo boats " 
must not fire upon one another, but if the flag is knocked 
from the hat of one boy and a " torpedo boat " of the 
enemy reaches him before he can replace his flag, he is 
considered captured, sunk, and out of the game until his 
side captures an enemy's " torpedo boat," when an ex- 
change may be effected. 

Repairs. The paper-covered funnels, the fighting-tops, 
and the signal flags will be damaged the most and will 
have a fine battered appearance. These may easily be 
removed, -carried indoors, and repaired in a few minutes. 

In this kind of snow fight 

Good Marksmanship counts for more than strength, and 
the small boy with an accurate aim is as valuable a man 
as his big brother. 




m^H 



CHAPTER XVIII 



A COASTER AND A 
BOB-SLED 




A HOME-MADE slcd that is properly put together gen- 
erally outlasts the store sled, not because it is more sub- 
stantially built, perhaps, but because the boy who has 
spent the necessary time to construct it realizes its worth 
and takes a pride in keeping it in good condition. 

The Coaster shown in Fig. 368 is simple to make, but 
in cutting out the various pieces and putting them together 




Fig. 368. — A Home-made Coaster. 

you must do the work carefully in order to get the best 

results. 

Lay out the Runners by the pattern shown in Fig. 369. 

This has been marked off into squares, at the ends, to 

aid you in laying out the curves. Measure off the total 

length of the runner upon a i-inch or ij-inch board, 

287 



288 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 









Fig. 369. 



4--0-: 

Pattern for Runners. 



then lay out the squares as shown, spacing the lines i 
inch apart, and locate the points where the curves inter- 
sect the lines on the pattern; then it will be a simple 

matter to con- 
nect the points 
by a continuous 
curved line. 
After one runner 
has been laid out 
and cut from the 
board it can be 
used for a pat- 
tern for marking 
out the other 



(Lay out the squares as shown i " x i" as a guide for 
drawing the curved ends.) 



C=^ 



r 



tB- 

Ha- 



^■"7 ' 

/.SEAT 



E^-J- 



1 — m 



A— ^ 



Fig. 370, — Plan of Runners and Cross-pieces. 



runner. If you can get only pine or other soft wood 
out of which to cut the runners, you can reenforce 
them after cutting them out by driving i6-penny nails, 
or short pieces of iron rod, into holes bored vertically 
8 or 10 inches apart. 

Oiled wooden runners will slide over an icy surface, but 
Shoes either of hoop-iron or half-oval iron are to be 
preferred if you can get them. A blacksmith is the man 
to go to for these. Take the runners to him and 
have him bend the irons to fit and make the screw holes 
so you can screw them in place. The holes along the 
bottom should be countersunk so the screw-heads will 
set flush with the iron (Fig. 376). Five screws for each 
runner will be plenty. 



A COASTER AND A BOB-SLED 



289 




Fig. 371. — Con- 
nect the Runners 
like This. 



Fig. 372. — Cut 
the Cross-pieces 
and Braces like 2)7^)^ 
This. 



Cut the three 

Connecting Cross-pieces {A, Figs. 370 and 371) 12 inches 
long, 2 inches wide, and ij inches thick and prepare 
the ends of each as shown at A (Fig. 372) ; then cut 

the six braces B (Figs. 
^.^>^>::^ 370 and 371) as shown 
in Fig. 372, to fit the 
mortises in the ends of 
A. Screw the braces 
to the cross-pieces and 
to the runners (Fig. 
then screw the 
cross-pieces between 
the runners. They should be f inch below the top — • 
one 1 1 inches from the front end, another 7 inches from 
the rear end, and the third halfway between the two. 

Make the Seat in two pieces (a wide board would be 
likely to split) and screw the boards to the cross-pieces. 
There are a number of forms of 

Sled Handles, any one of which you may use. One of 
the simplest kind of handles consists of slots cut through 
the runners as shown in Figs. 369 and 371. The slots 
should be cut as described on page 142 (see Fig. 156). 
To make the handle shown in Fig. 368, cut two pieces 
of broom-handle 28 inches long and four wooden blocks 
2 inches square ; nail two of the blocks to each runner, 
then bore f-inch holes through the broom-handle pieces 
and through the blocks and runners, and bolt the handles 



290 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



in place with f-inch carriage-bolts 4 inches long. Drawer- 
pulls, such as are used upon the 
fronts of kitchen pantry drawers, 
are another form of handles which 
may be used. 

Bore a i-inch hole through the 
bow ends of the runners and cut a 
piece of broom-handle to fit in 
them for 

The Foot-bar. If you drive a nail 
through each end of the broom- 
handle, close to the runners, it will 
prevent the bow end of the runners 
from spreading. 

Paint your coaster with at least 
two coats of paint. You may suit 
yourself about the colors, but a good 
combination would be to paint the 
runners yellow or green and the 
seat and handles red ; then if you 
want to letter a name upon the seat, 
put it on with black paint. 

Every one of you boys can own 

A Bob-sled, for there is nothing 
difficult about constructing one, 
and the material required is inex- 

FiG. 373. — "Every boy , 

can own a bob-sled." A bob COnsistS of tWO slcds built 




A COASTER AND A BOB-SLED 



291 



along the lines of a coaster, placed tandem, and con- 
nected with a plank long enough to hold three or more 
boys (Figs. 373 and 374). 

The sleds must be built first, and as they are identical 
in construction 

The Four Runners may be cut out by the same pattern 
(Fig. 375). The pattern shows the curved ends marked 



Fig. 374. — A Home-made Bob-sled. 

off into squares, just as the pattern for the runners of the 
coaster was shown, and one runner should be laid out 
first, just as described for the other sled, and the others 
marked out from this. Make them out of oak or other 
strong wood, if possible, as the bob-sled's runners are 
subjected to a great deal of strain. If you must use 
soft wood, do not fail to reenforce them as suggested 
for the runners of the coaster. 

For connecting the Runners and bracing them, cut six 
cleats ij- inches thick, 2 inches wide, and 10 inches long 
{A, Figs. 376 and 27^)^ 3,nd buy twelve 2-by-2-inch iron 
angle-braces, such as are shown in Fig. 377, at a hard- 
ware store. Nail the runners to the ends of the cleats, 
using three cleats for each sled and spacing them as 
shown in Fig. 378, and then screw the angle-braces to 
the runners and to the cleats (Figs. 376 and 378). Cut 



292 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



The Sled Seats 22 inches long out of lo-inch boards 
and screw them to the cleats. 

The Seat of the Bob-sled shown in the illustration is a 
2-by-io-inch plank 7 feet 6 inches long and is bolted to 
the bow sled and hinged to the stern sled. Cut the two 



^^m^^si^m^^^^^M^^m^m^^^sm^m^m 



^ 



WASHER 



tai 



V'>vvvvvvv^'>v ' W\Si 



Fig. 378. 



I'BOLT-^ 



' ^wm^S l^a 



^ 







X 


\ 


sL 


B 


J 


Fig 


. 379. Fig. 380. 
















" . 1 








"^ 












L 1 


^ 




















\ 






s 














f 


b>DRAWTM« UNU WHICH POflH 




\ 








^ 
















s 












- 


.. 


^ 






_ 


^ 




Fig. 375 
Fig. 376 
Fig. 377 
Fig. 378 
Fig. 379 
Fig. 380 
Fig. 381 



Fig. 375. Fig. 376. 

Pattern for Runners. 

Cross-section of Sled showing how Runners are Braced. 

Iron Braces for bracing the Runners. 

Longitudinal Section of Completed Bob-sled. 

Blocks for connecting Seat to Front Sled. 

Use a f " X 7" Carriage-bolt for a King-bolt. 

Block for connecting Seat to Rear Sled. 



blocks B and C (Fig. 379) if inches wide, if inches 
thick, and 10 inches long, and bore af-inch hole through 
the center of one side of each, then nail block B to the 
board seat of the sled and block C to the under side of 
the plank, and bore the f-inch holes through both the 
board seat and the plank. Buy a |-inch carriage-bolt 7 
inches long (Fig. 380) and drop it into the holes in the 



A COASTER AND A BOB-SLED 293 

plank, block, and sled seat, putting a washer between 
the bolt-head and seat, another between blocks B and C 
and a washer and nut upon the lower end. 

The Seat is hinged at the Stern End so the stern sled 
will rise and fall as it runs over uneven ground, inde- 
pendent of the bow sled. Cut block D (Figs. ,378 
and 381) out of hard wood 2 inches thick, 4 inches wide, 
and 10 inches long, and plane off the top edge as shown. 
Get a pair of 4-by-4-inch wrought-steel butts at a hard- 
ware store for the hinges, and screw them to this block 
and to the plank seat with screws if inches long; then 
spike the stern sled to the block. Connect the bow ends 
of the runners of the stern sled with the bottom of the 
plank seat with 

Check-chains, or ropes, fastened to screw-eyes (Fig. 

378). 

Cut the Steering Foot-bar E (Fig. 'i^']Z) 20 inches long, 
nail it to the runners of the bow sled, and attach 

The Steering Lines to its ends (Fig. 374). 

For Handle-bars cut the cross-bars F (Fig. 'x^']K) 20 
inches long and screw them to the under side of the 
plank seat, and bolt pieces of broom-handle to their ends, 
as shown in Fig. 374. 

The Seat should have a Cushion, and an old carriage, 
wagon, or boat cushion may be remodeled for it, or the 
top of the plank may be padded with excelsior or straw 
and then covered with a piece of oilcloth or carpet (Fig. 
378). The padding should be spread out evenly and be 



294 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

secured to the plank by stretching a piece of cloth over 
it and tacking it to the edges of the plank with cord be- 
fore putting on the top covering (see directions for up- 
holstering on page ii6); then the covering should be 
pulled tight over the padding and tacked to the under 
side of the plank. Tufting the cushion every 4 or 5 
inches, by driving nails through the covering and pad- 
ding into the plank, will prevent the padding from shift- 
ing and becoming lumpy (Fig. 374). 

Two Coats of Paint applied to all the woodwork will 
give the sled its finishing touches, then, with a snow- 
covered hill or slippery toboggan-sHde to coast upon, you 
will be ready to give all of your friends a ride upon your 
new home-made bob. 




PARTn 



Spring and Simmicr 
Handicraft 




Aero Club of the Chicago Calumet High School. 




A Model Aeroplane Meet of the Calumet Aero Club. 



^^^^^^^i^s 




I I ! L— ' 



CHAPTER XIX 

MODEL AEROPLANES 



:5E3ZSE2ZZ5I 




Boys cannot study well while some one or something 
from without is attracting their attention, and it is this very 
condition of things which makes indoor work difficult 
after the first signs of spring have arrived. As soon as 
the Weather Man throws over the switch marked " balmy 
weather," Mother Nature takes heed and sends forth her 
messengers in their . little " airyplanes " to arouse a 
greater activity in every living creature, and to awaken 
each growing thing from its winter sleep. We all 
receive the call in the " airy grams," which reach us 
through the gentle breezes, and through the fragrance 
from the fields and forests which fill our nostrils ; and 
each little squealing or chattering animal, and each chirp- 
ing or scolding bird, seems either to invite us to come 
out into the open and work, or to mock us for not doing 
so. Then there are the brooks and the streams, whose 
jumping fish remind us that the " fishin' " is fine, and the 
old " swimmin' " hole, the sight of which tempts us to 
take an afternoon off and go " swimmin'." So it is no 
wonder that, with all these invitations thrust upon us at 

297 



298 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

one time, we become restless, and that you boys find 
it difficult to keep your minds upon your studies, for it is 
to these calls of Nature that all within us is responding. 

But the days are getting longer now, and soon there 
will be lots of time before and after school to devote to 
outdoor work and play, and, with all day Saturday in ad- 
dition and the spring vacation in sight, you fellows will 
have very little reason to complain. 

Since the making and flying of model aeroplanes has 
developed into one of the greatest of pastimes for boys, it 
has been added to the list of boys' sports, and, although a 
model aeroplane requires calm weather rather than the 
breeze necessary for kite flying, aeroplane flying seems 
to belong to the spring of the year, for it furnishes the 
first opportunity to try out the models which have 
been devised and constructed during the winter months ; 
so the first spell of warm weather of each year is probably 
destined to be known hereafter as aeroplane time, as 
well as kite, marble, and top time. 

A model aeroplane contest is as much more fascinat- 
ing than a kite contest as an automobile race is than a 
horse race, and what makes it more interesting than kite 
flying is probably the fact that it requires more skill to 
build a light and evenly balanced model, and that a 
successful flight depends upon the model itself, rather 
than the guiding hand of its flyer, as in kite flying. 

The Lengths of Flights have been limited on account of 
the lack of a long-running light-weight motor, but the dis- 



MODEL AEROPLANES 



299 



tances covered have gradually been increased from some 
60 odd feet, one of the first records made several years 




Courtesy of " The Chicago Daily News." 

Junior Aeronautics. 

Ideas which are more Ingenious than Praiseworthy. 

(See details in Chapter XX for a safe a.nd practical " boy-carrying " machine.) 

ago, to a distance of over 350 feet, recently obtained. 
This shows how boys have succeeded in developing bet- 
ter and better models, through the discovery of more 



300 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

satisfactory working material,. better forms for the planes 
and propellers, and improved methods for installing the 
motive power and for joining together the various parts 
of the models. 

Junior Aero Clubs have been organized in schools and 
in branches of the Young Men's Christian Association, 
in many parts of the country, and it is very probable, if 
the model aeroplane increases in popularity at the rate at 
which it has during the past few years, that fully two 
thirds of the boys of America, as well as a large propor- 
tion of their English cousins, and the boys in all other 
countries in which aeronautics are holding the public's 
attention, will soon become enthusiastic builders of model 
aeroplanes. 

The Chicago Calumet High School boys organized 
an aero club in the winter of 1910, and, under the tutor- 
age of Mr. Arthur Booth, their instructor in mechanical 
drawing, have designed and built many successful 
models. The photographs opposite page 297 show 
some of the club members with their home-made 
models, also the start of one of their aeroplane races, 
while two of the photographs opposite page 302 show 
other views of several of their models. 

Model Aeroplane Meets. Each aero club has its own 
rules for its contests, but they do not differ very mate- 
rially. There are usually three judges — a starter, a re- 
corder, and a head official — to govern the race, and it is 
generally stipulated in the rules that all models shall be 



MODEL AEROPLANES • 301 

the product of the boys entering them. In some races 
it is required that the models start from the ground ; in 
others they must be released from the hand without 
giving them any forward motion ; in a third form of race 
they must be launched from a table top, chair, or bench ; 
and for a fourth way they are launched from the hand 
and may be given as much of a push as the contestants 
wish. Sometimes a dozen models are started off at one 
time, but usually the number is limited to five or six, to 
avoid collisions. 

The lengths of the flights are figured from the starting 
line to the points at which they first touch the ground. 
The winner of a race is usually awarded 10 points, the 
holder of second place 5 points, and the holder of third 
place 3 points. In the races in which the machines 
start from the ground, the model which rises within the 
least number of feet from the starting line scores 10 
points, and the one which rises next best scores 5 points, 
which results in heavy handicaps for models capable of 
covering long distances, but slow in taking to the air. 

Three cups, each having a valuation of $100, were 
awarded last year by business men of New York City 
for the winners of the contests held under the auspices 
of the Young Men's Christian Association. The first 
of these was deeded with the condition that it be won 
three times in succession by a contestant before becom- 
ing his property, the second was for the longest flight 
of the year, and the third for the best-designed model 



302 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

among the winners of all the contests. These prizes 
have stimulated a desire in New York boys to put forth 
their very best efforts, and have resulted in some surpris- 
ing records and an astonishing array of styles of models, 
from careful reproductions of the large successful flyers 
to a variety of forms which only boys' ingenuity could 
produce. 

The Three Types of Machines used in designing models 
are the glider, or motorless model ; the monoplane, which 
is constructed more or less along the lines of a bird ; and 
the biplane, or double-decked aeroplane. Gliders may 
be of either the monoplane or biplane type. 

The glider is the best form for a boy to make first, as 
it is the simplest and will enable him to learn the main 
points to be observed in building a successful flyer; 
then, after he has succeeded in producing a good glider, 
he can go a little farther and add a motor, and then he 
will be prepared to undertake the construction of some 
of the more elaborate monoplanes. A number of suc- 
cessful biplane models have been made, but so far none 
has been produced which can equal the records of the 
monoplane model. They are usually not as stable a 
machine, the greatest difficulty being that a very slight 
disturbance in the air will upset them and cause them 
to crash to the earth, usually resulting disastrously, if 
not in total destruction. 

The Support of an Aeroplane. There are several funda- 
mental principles which must be taken into consideration 



MODEL AEROPLANES 303 

in designing an aeroplane, in order to make it so It will 
ride the air successfully. It is necessary to so plan the 
wings, ox planes^ that the center of the upward pressure 
exerted upon them by the supporting air beneath will 
come at the center of balance. The instant the center 
of this pressure shifts to one side, the planes tilt, with 
the result that the machine loses its equilibrium and 
upsets. To illustrate this action, take a piece of paper 
or cardboard and drop it from your hand. You will find 
that as long as it remains flat it floats, but the instant 
the center of the air pressure beneath shifts to one side, 
the opposite edge drops, and the piece overbalances and 
falls. Cardboard is stiffer and will keep Its balance 
longer than the piece of paper, as the air pressure is held 
under its center of balance for a longer time. If you let 
a piece of cardboard glide out of your hand, you will 
discover another factor which must be counted on; you 
will find that the forward end is forced upward, and, as a 
result, the card instantly slips backward, then upsets and 
drops to the ground. This is caused by a change in 
the center of the air pressure, immediately the card starts 
to move forward, from the center of balance to a point 
between that and the forward end. This tendency to 
upset is neutralized by counterbalancing, or by adding 
stability planes in such positions as will help to retain the 
original center of balance. 

A Cardboard Bird Glider may be fashioned on the lines 
of the body of a bird, as shown in Fig. 382. Mark out a 



304 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 




circular piece of cardboard, using a compass or the rim 
of a small plate for the purpose; cut a couple of wedge- 
shaped pieces of equal size 
out of the edge, leaving 
the piece between for a 
tail ; and turn over about 
J inch of the edge directly 
opposite the tail, as shown, 
and stick a piece cut in 
the shape of a head and 
neck in a slit made through 
the folded front edge. 
The head should have 
some sealing-wax dropped 

Fig. 382. -a Cardboard Bird Glider. ^^^^ j^ ^^ ^j^^ -^ weight; 

this can then be used as a counterbalance, and be ex- 
tended or pushed back into the body as much as is 
necessary to equalize the upward pressure upon the 
forward end. The bird should glide to the ground in a 
long, graceful curve; if it dives head first, you may know 
that the weight is too heavy, and that the head must be 
pushed closer to the body; while if it rises and then 
collapses, the head must be extended a little farther 
front. 

A Simple Monoplane Model is shown in Fig. 383. This 
makes a splendid form of glider as well. Figure 384 
shows the model without the planes, and Fig. 385 shows 
the details for the propeller. 



MODEL AEROPLANES 



305 



Use a |--inch or f-inch pine flagstaff for 
The Center-pole, and get one which is split down the 
center, if possible, so the slot in which to slip the card- 




Fjg. 383. — A Simple Monoplane Model. 

board wings will already be prepared. If you cannot 
find an old staff nailed up somewhere, from which the 
flag has been washed by the rain, you may use a cabinet- 



,WiRE Shaft | 

^— — -0-: 11 _ 

HUB t_^--l 



BRASS 
BEARING 




Fig. 384. 



Fig. 384. — Center-pole of Monoplane with Motor in Place. 
Fig. 385. — Details of Propeller, Shaft and Bearing. 

maker's dowel stick and rip one end for a* distance of 5 
inches and the other for a distance of 6 inches. Cut 
this center-pole about 18 inches long. 



3o6 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

Before attaching the propeller, 

Cut the Two Planes out of cardboard of a light weight, 
yet stiff enough to support itself. The sizes of these 
planes must be determined by experimenting, as they will 
depend upon the weight of the material, but will be 
approximately 5 inches by 12 inches and 4 inches by 
6 inches. The large plane should be fastened about i 
inch from one end of the pole, and the rear plane should 
be placed about the same distance from the opposite end. 
You have now completed a glider, and this should be 
tried out before the motor is attached. Adjust the rear 
plane fore and aft until the model will glide in long, grace- 
ful sweeps ; but do not fasten it permanently in place if 
you intend to install a motor, for after this has been put 
in place it will be necessary to readjust this plane. 

A Glider Race may be started from a shed or barn 
roof, or, if you live in an upper story of an apartment 
building, you may use the rear porch from which to 
start the models. 

The details for 

An Easily Made Propeller are shown in Fig. 385. The 
blades are cut out of tin from a tomato can, which you 
will find of just the right curve. Remove the ragged 
edge of the cut end of a can, by holding the can over a 
flame until the solder melts and the end drops off; then 
mark out one, blade to the dimensions given, cut it out, 
and mark out the second blade with it as a pattern. 

Cut a block -| inch by f inch by i J inches in size out 



MODEL AEROPLANES 307 

of hard wood for a hub ; drill a small hole through the 
center for a shaft, and slot each end diagonally for a dis- 
tance of ^ inch with a saw, as shown in the detail. 
Notch each edge of the blades near the narrow end, as 
shown in the pattern; then slip the blades into the slots 
in the hubs, bend the ends over against the hub, and 
drive a tack through the wood and the tin to help hold 
them in position. 

Cut a short piece of wire for 

The Shaft, and after slipping it through the hub bend 
the end over and stick it into another small hole made in 
the hub. 

The Shaft Bearing should be made out of a piece of 
brass f inch by ij inches in size. Drill a hole of a 
little larger diameter than the shaft, near one end, and, 
^ inch away from this end, bend it as shown ; then set it 
into the split end of the center-pole, and bind it in place 
by winding the end with strong linen thread. Coat the 
thread with glue, or with shellac, to hold it in place. 

Strands of rubber are used for 

The Motive Power of model aeroplanes almost exclu- 
sively, as this is the most efficient light-weight material 
which has as yet been found for the purpose. For the 
simpler models, No. 32 rubber bands are often looped 
together chain fashion, and several strands of these used ; 
but for the larger machines strands of rubber about 3-V 
inch thick are generally used. Rubber strands j^ inch 
thick can be purchased wherever model aeroplanes are 



3o8 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

sold, and will cost about $i- ior a piece loo feet long; 
you will find the addresses of dealers, who make a 
specialty of furnishing model aeroplane parts, in the 
magazines. Some of the boys of the Chicago Calumet 
High School have tried the rubber from old golf balls, 
and have found this very satisfactory. 

The number of strands necessary for a motor will de- 
pend, of course, upon the age of the rubber, and its 
diameter. If you use No. 32 rubber bands, which are -| 
inch wide and 3 inches long, from four to six strands will 
usually be sufficient, while if you use ^ inch rubber, 
there should be from ten to eighteen strands. 

Slip a glass bead on to the propeller shaft for a thrust- 
bearing, then slip the shaft through the hole in the hub, 
bend the end into a hook, and slip the rubber over it. 
The other ends of the strands should be looped over a 
screw-hook, and the hook should be screwed into the 
center-pole about 12 inches away from the propeller 
shaft. The strands should be just loose enough to 
remain taut when unwound. 

The propeller of model aeroplanes is usually placed 
at the forward end, rather than in the rear as on the 
large machines, and the model is really drawn through 
the air instead of propelled. It has been found that the 
model flies steadier by this arrangement. 

When winding up the Motor for a Flight, the propeller 
should be given from 100 to 175 turns, according to the 
strength of the rubber and number of strands used. 



MODEL AEROPLANES 



309 



Figure 386 shows a monoplane patterned after 

A French ModeL This, Hke the model just described, 




Fig. 386. — A French Monoplane Model. 

may be equipped with a motor or may be used without 
as a glider. 

The Center-pole is made out of a piece of bamboo, 
for which the end of a bamboo fishing-rod may be used 
(Fig. 387). Prepare blocks A and B as shown in Figs. 
387 and 388, making A \ inch thick, \ inch wide. 




Fig. 388. Fig. 389. 

Fig. 387. — Center-pole and Motor of Monoplane Model shown in Fig. 386. 
Fig. 388. — Details of Propeller and Motor Connections. 
Fig. 389. — Details of Running-gear. 



3IO HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

and i|- inches long, and B of the same width and thick- 
ness by \\ inches long. The necessary holes should 
be bored through these blocks before they are trimmed 
up to the proper size, to avoid splitting them. Locate 
the holes of the proper diameters for the center-pole, 
propeller shaft, and a screw-hook. Fasten the blocks 
to the center-pole with glue and brads, placing A at 
one end and B 23 inches away from it. Bind three 
fancy-work rings to the center-pole at C, D, and E 
(Fig. 387). Bind ring C \\\ inches from block A, 
D 8 inches from C, and E at the end of the 
pole. 

The Propeller is made similar to the one described 
for the other monoplane, but is of different proportions. 
The pattern for the blades is shown in Fig. 388, and 
the hub, also shown in the detail, should be f inch 
by f inch by if inches in size. For the propeller 
shaft, procure the ring from the top of a worn-out 
alarm-clock; also a machine-screw of the proper thread 
to screw into it (Fig. Z^"^)'^ ^^^ ^^^ ^ small washer 
of hard wood, as shown. The illustrations show clearly 
how^ the machine-screw should run through the propel- 
ler hub, then through the wooden washer, through the 
lower hole in block A, and then be screwed into the 
clock ring. Figure 387 shows the number of strands of 
rubber necessary for an efficient motor; also how they 
are connected to the clock ring and to the screw-hook 
in block B. 



MODEL AEROPLANES 31 1 

A Running-gear is not necessary for a simple mono- 
plane like this, but it is easily made and attached, and is 
a big protection to the propeller blades, which are likely 
to be bent out of shape if of metal, or broken if of wood, 
by coming in contact with the ground. 

Figure 389 shows a simple way to construct the frame 
out of wire and bamboo, and how the ends of the bam- 
boo axle run through the wheels. Button molds can 
be purchased at any dry-goods store for about 5 cents a 
dozen, and these make excellent wheels; they turn upon 
the axle and are held in place by driving short pins 
through the bamboo ends. Fasten the wire frame to 
block A with small tacks or thread, or with both 

(Fig. 387)- 

Some boys provide their models with bamboo 
Skids constructed similar to the runners which were 
originally used upon the large machines, but wheels 
look neater upon the model machines, and produce less 
friction. 

The Planes for this model do not require a framework. 
Only two sticks are necessary for each, and these slip 
through the hems sewed on the edges of the covering 
(Fig. 390). Silk should be used for the covering of the 
planes, and, if your mother hasn't any scraps large 
enough in her scrap-bag, you can buy enough for the 
two planes for 25 cents. If your mother or sister will 
do the necessary sewing on the sewing-machine, the rest 
of the work can be finished up very quickly; however, 



312 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



THIS END LOOPS OVER 
JOPOF END- BLOCK 'A" 
(SEB F>0.3B7) 



any boy who is at all handy can manage a needle and 
thread well enough when he has to, and does not find it 
hard, either. Make a hem along each of the long edges 

to run the sticks 
into, and a nar- 
row one along 
each narrow 
edge to keep the 
silk from ravel- 
ing. The pat- 
tern (Fig. 390) 
shows the proper 
dimensions for 
the planes. The 
sticks may be 
whittled out of 
pine, but bam- 
boo is lighter 
and stronger. 

After the silk 
has been pre- 
pared and the 
sticks have been 
slipped into the hems made for them, sew a dozen 
small brass rings to the edges, in the positions indicated 
upon the pattern, being careful to place each pair of 
rings the same distance away from the center. To the 
two center rings on the front edge of the front plane fas- 




FiG. 390. — Pattern for Planes and Connections for 
Monoplane Model shown in Fig. 386. 



MODEL AEROPLANES 313 

ten the ends of a piece of wire bent as shown in Fig. 390, 
with a loop in the end to fit over the top of block A of 
the center-pole. Attach a cord to the rings at the 
ends of the front plane, for warping the plane ; connect 
the two planes about \o\ inches apart with cords tied to 
the end rings as shown ; and tie a short piece of cord 
to each of the remaining rings by which to fasten 
the planes to rings C, D, and E on the center-pole. 
In attaching the planes to the center-pole, first slip 
the wire loop over the top of block A (Fig. 387), 
then pull the cords on the rear edge of the rear plane 
until the sticks in the front plane are bowed, and tie 
them to ring E\ tie the cords on the center rings to 
rings C and D to keep the planes centered upon the 
center-pole. 

After you have completed this model, go over it and 
examine each part ; see that the silk covering of the planes 
is stretched taut ; sight along the model, lengthwise, to 
see that the planes are in line with each other ; test the 
warping of the front plane to make certain that it is the 
same on each end; and, if necessary, readjust the bracing 
cords to correct any of these faults. 

If the model dives when you try it, loosen the bracing 
cords and move the rear plane a little forward ; if it rises 
and then slips backwards to the ground, move the plane 
back until a perfect balance is obtained. When the 
planes have been properly adjusted, tie the cords securely 
so they will not slip. Some boys coat the knots with glue 



3^4 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



to make them doubly secure, but two half-hitches will 
make a perfect fastening. 

The upper center photograph in the group opposite 
page 302 shows this model monoplane held aloft with the 




Fig. 391. — Antoinette Monoplane Model. 

motor wound up, ready to be released for a flight. When 
carefully made, this model will fly distances of 100 to 
200 feet. 

The Antoinette Model shown in Fig. 391 is a neat mono- 
plane and one that is easily made. 

The Center-pole is shown in Fig. 392, and consists of a 
piece of a bamboo fishing-rod or bamboo umbrella handle, 
24 inches long and f or ^ inch in diameter. Prepare the 
blocks A and B similar to blocks A and B in Fig. 388, 
and fasten B in place 2\\ inches away from block A. 
Run a piece of stiff wire through the center-pole at C, 
which should be 2\ inches from A, and anojther at D^ 
which should be 6 inches away from C\ also ran a piece 
of wire, cut ^\ inches long and having its lower end bent 
into the form of a hook, through a vertical hole bored 
through the center-pole \ inch back of block B. Drive 



MODEL AEROPLANES 



315 



a screw into the top of the pole at F, which should be 7 

inches away from block B, and fasten a brass ring to the 

rear end of the pole, as shown at G. 

Use the details given in Fig. 388 in preparing 

The Propeller for this model, and connect up the rubber 

motor as described for the other model. 

Figures 393 to 396 show the patterns for the wings, 

tail, fin, and rudder. 



Fig. 392. 




Fig. 393. RUDDER 

Fig. 396. 

Fig. 392. — Center-pole of Antoinette Monoplane Model. 

Fig. 393. — Pattern for Wings. FiG. 395. — Pattern for Fin. 

Fig. 394. — Pattern for Tail. FiG. 396. — Pattern for Rudder. 

The Wings require frames made of wire, or of four 
bamboo sticks bound together at the corners with linen 
thread, as indicated by the dotted lines in Fig. 393, and 
they are covered with silk. The projecting ends on the 
side pieces are provided for connection to the ends of 



3i6 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

wires C and D on the center-pole (Figs. 392 and 391); 
bind them in place with linen thread (Fig. 391). Connect 
the ends of the wings with a thread or cord, and make 
this short enough to warp the wings 2\ inches (measure- 
ment at center, and from string to center-pole). 

The Tail has one stick, which slips into a hem in the 
short edge of the cloth, and cords run through hems on 
the other two edges. Fasten one end of each cord to 
the stick and the other end to a small brass ring. This 
plane should be warped f inch, by attaching a warping 
cord to the ends of the stick, as shown in Fig. 391. 

The Fin is prepared similar to the tail plane, but, in- 
stead of having a stick run through it, the seam on the 
short edge slips over the upper end of wire E (Fig. 392). 
The rings on the fin and tail slip over the nail at /^ 

The Rudder has a piece of wire run through its edge to 
give it stiffness, and the ends of this wire are bent into 
hooks and fastened to the lower part of wire E (Figs. 
391 and 392). Attach a thread to the rear of the rudder 
and fasten the ends of this to the ends of the tail plane, 
setting the rudder in line with the center-pole, or at an 
angle, according to whether you wish to have the model 
fly straight or in a curve. 

The Running-gear is to be constructed the same as for 
the other model. 

A More Elaborate Monoplane Model is shown in Fig. 
397. This is one of the forms of monoplane models 
used by the boys of the Chicago Calumet High School 



MODEL AEROPLANES 



317 



in their study of aeronautics. It is more difficult to 
make than those which have been described, but any 
handy boy who has built some of the simpler models 
successfully should be prepared to undertake its con- 
struction; for he will have learned that exact workman- 
ship is necessary in model making, that the weight and 




Fig. 397. — A More Elaborate Monoplane Model. 

strength of materials used must be carefully considered, 
that each part must be carefully tested as prepared, that 
the planes must be warped or bowed to the same degree 
at both ends, and that an efficient propeller is one half 
of the secret of producing a record-breaking model. 

As so many measurements are necessary for this 
model, in order that each part may be properly proper- 




Fig. 398. — Plan or Top View. 
(Scale i" = I".) 




euTTON MOULD 



Fig. 399. — Front Elevation of Monoplane Model shown in Fig. 397. 
(Scale i" = i".) 

318 



MODEL AEROPLANES 



319 



tioned and properly placed, working-drawings are shown 
to a scale of ^ inch to the inch; that is, the plan or top 
view (Fig. 398), the front elevation (Fig. 399), and the 
side elevation (Fig. 400) are reproduced upon the pages 
at such a size that ^ inch of the drawing on the page rep- 
resents I inch on the model, which you will understand 
if you have studied the instructions in Chapter IV for 
making working-drawings. By placing an ordinary ruler 
upon the pages you will be able to tell exactly what any 
measurement is. 

Unless you have had some experience in reading me- 
chanical drawings, there is one thing which may puzzle 
you, and which I shall explain. If you look at the pro- 
peller in Figs. 398 and 399, you will see that it is shown 
shorter in the plan than In the front elevation ; the plan 
does not, in this case, show the correct length, but rep- 
resents the top view when the propeller is turned to the 
angle shown in the front elevation. It \'$> foreshortened 
in the plan. The propeller is foreshortened in the same 



^ 




Fig. 400. — Side Elevation of Monoplane Model shown in Fig. 397. 
(Scale I" = i".) 



320 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

way in the side elevation (Fig. 400), which shows it as 
it would be seen in a side view when it is turned as 
shown in the front elevation. As all other portions set 
at an angle are foreshortened in a similar manner, in all 
views in which you do not look squarely at them, be 
careful to use the drawing which shows the true length, 
in taking off the measurements. 

The Center-pole of this model is made out of a piece of 
bamboo, for which a fishing-rod or Japanese parasol 
handle may be used, and should be about ^ inch thick ; 
and the framework of the running-gear, the braces, and the 
backbone and ribs of each plane are made of strips of 
split bamboo -^-q inch thick by ^^ inch wide, and the edge 
strips of the planes and rudder are made of pine about 
■^ inch in diameter. The ribs from a Japanese parasol 
may be used for the bamboo strips, and the sticks from 
a sm^ splasher, — a contrivance made to keep the walls 
around a sink from being splashed, which can be pur- 
chased for 5 or 10 cents at a department store — are 
just the thing for the ^^inch sticks ; small strips of bam- 
boo may be used instead of the round sticks, if they are 
easier to obtain. 

Strong linen thread is 

The Best Material for Binding the sticks together. 
Wire is sometimes used, but thread is very much lighter 
and easier to handle, and if you brush the connections 
with a thin coat of glue after wrapping the thread around 
them, they cannot possibly separate. The binding was 



MODEL AEROPLANES 



321 



not shown on the connections on the plan and eleva- 
tions, in order not to make the drawings complicated, 
but you will readily see where it is necessary by looking 
at Fig. 397. 

The Running-gear consists of two triangular frames, on 
each of which a pair of button molds are mounted for 
wheels. Measure off the lengths of the strips, from the 
drawings, and fasten the strips together as in Fig. 
401. Whittle down the 
ends of the axles to fit the 
holes in the button molds, 
and drive pins through 
them to hold the molds in 
place. After completing 
the frames, bind them to 
the center-pole and brace 
each upright with a diago- 
nal brace, as shown in Figs. 
398 and 400. 

The Propeller shown in 
the drawings is a true form 
of screw-propeller. The 
making of one of these is 
difficult, and it requires a great deal of accuracy in both 
laying out and cutting to produce one that is efficient. 
Many boys succeed in preparing very satisfactory pro- 
pellers out of pine, spruce, or walnut, and sometimes 
laminations (layers) of walnut and white holly wood, 




Fig. 401. — Running-gear of Mono- 
plane shown in Fig. 397. 



322 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 




Figs. 402 and 403. 

Forms of Shaft Bearins:. 



while other boys buy them already made. A very effec- 
tive lo-inch propeller can be purchased for about $1, 
If you make your propeller, follow the dimensions shown 
upon the drawings. 

The Shaft Bearing is shown in detail in Fig. 402. 
Make this of brass or copper, of any gauge heavy 
enough to keep its shape, and not over ^g inch thick. 

Fig. 401. ^ Flatten the under 
side of the center- 
pole for it to rest 
against, and wire it 

Propeller Shaft and Two in place about J- inch 

away from the end. 
If you have only very thin brass, copper, or tin out of 
which to make the bearing, you may prepare a block 
to fit on the pole and tack the bearing to the under 
side and ends of this, as shown in Fig. 403. 

The Shaft is made out of a piece of stiff wire (Figs. 
400 and 402). File a square taper upon the propeller 
end of this, so that the propeller will not turn upon it, 
and, after slipping it through the bearing, solder a glass 
bead on to it i inch from the end, as shown, to relieve the 
propeller of all motor strain. Drive the propeller on to 
the end of the shaft, carefully, so as to avoid the danger of 
splitting it. It is not necessary to clinch the end of this 
shaft, if you drive the propeller on to it properly; and 
there is an advantage in not clinching it, in the fact 
that the propeller can easily be removed then, in case 



MODEL AEROPLANES 323 

of accident, or if you have a number of forms of pro- 
pellers, you can quickly interchange them. In drilling 
the hole through the shaft bearing, be sure to place 
it low enough so the hook will clear the center-pole, in 
revolving. 

The hook for the rear end of the rubber motor should 
be bent out of a piece of brass, and be wired to the under 
side of the center-pole to a flattened surface, as shown in 
Fig. 400. 

The Rubber Motor described for the other models will 
be satisfactory for this machine (see page 307). 

The Construction of the Planes is clearly shown upon 
the working-drawings. Bend the ribs to the exact curve 
shown in Fig. 404, and be careful to get them all alike. 



Fig. 404. — Curve the Ribs of the Planes Hke This. 

Bind together the ends of the backbone, ribs, and edge 
sticks carefully, then test each framework to see that it 
balances at the center ; this it must do, and it will if you 
have cut the sticks of equal size and have connected them 
at equal distances each side of the center. Cover the 
planes with siik or with Japanese rice-paper, stretching 
the covering as tight as possible, and cross-stitching the 
silk or gluing the paper. If you dampen the paper 
first, before putting it on, it will dry out as tight as a 
drumhead. 



324 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

Bind the planes to the center-pole at A and B (Figs. 
398 and 400), being careful in doing so to place them 
exactly at right angles to the pole. The rear plane will 
have to be readjusted, after the model has been completed, 
to a point which will produce a perfect balance of the 
machine, but the position shown is an approximate loca- 
tion and a good one for a first trial. 

The Bracings, shown by the dotted lines in the illustra- 
tions, are fastened to the ends of the sticks. Use strong 
linen thread and fasten each end with two half-hitches. 
You may notch the ends of the sticks on the edges, in 
the same way that you notched the frame pieces of the 
running-gear, to avoid the possibility of the thread slip- 
ping off, but with well-tied half-hitches this precaution is 
not necessary. 

The Rudder Frame should be lashed to the center-pole, 
as shown in Figs. 397 and 400. Cover the frame with 
thin paper or silk. 

Finish. To make the framework more shipshape, it 
should be finished in some way. First rub it down 
carefully with sandpaper, then give it a couple of coats 
of shellac or aluminum paint. The aluminum paint 
such as is sold for stoves and radiators is inexpensive, 
and by using this the model's framework will appear to 
be made of aluminum. 

Flights this Monoplane is capable of Making. Some of 
the boys of the Chicago Calumet High School's aero 
club have made models of this type which have covered 



MODEL AEROPLANES 325 

distances of from 200 to 325 feet. If you are a good 
mechanic, you may be able to turn out a machine which 
will exceed this longest flight, and if you are a genius, 
you may be able to discover improvements w^hich will 
develop it into a record breaker. The photographs 
opposite pages 297 and 302 show this model in various 
sizes, and some . of the models, you will notice, are pro- 
vided with additional fins, placed below and above the 
center-pole, while others have a horizontal tail plane. 
After you have made the model for which the working- 
drawings are given, work out some of these extra parts, 
using vour ingenuity, as well as the photographs, to 
determine the proper proportions for them. 

Model aeroplane making, like the building of man- 
carrying machines, is in its infancy as yet, and for this 
reason probably offers a better opportunity for the boy 
inventor to show his skill and originality than does any 
other experimental work occupying the attention of men 
and boys at the present time. The making and flying of 
the small machines is keeping pace with that of the large 
ones. Each boy owner of a machine usually sets out with 
a determination to make a name for himself, and the 
frequency with which records are made and smashed in 
the junior aero contests would make it difficult for any 
one but an enthusiast to keep track of the latest records. 

Some of my readers will doubtless be holders of model 
aeroplane records, and when the honor comes to you, I 
want you to let me know. 



326 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

The boy who devises a motor which will be more effi- 
cient than the rubber strand motor used at the present 
time, will do more to advance this new pastime than can 
come from any other form of development, so here is a 
good field for your experiments. 




^^r^HHtlMli^j^ ' 




^\l I 
I ' I > 



CHAPTER XX 

- A BOY'S AUTO-AIRSHIP 




Probably after making a number of different forms of 
model aeroplanes, you boys will become ambitious to con- 

Ij struct soinething in which you yourselves can ride. Al- 
though the airship and aeroplane have been developed 

'! to the point where successful flying is an accomplished 
feat, they are a long wa^^s from the stage of perfection 
whereby one can fly without endangering life or limb. 
However, to help satisfy you restless fellows who desire 
to fly, I am going to show you a scheme which will en- 
able you to sail through the air. This will not contain 
the elements of danger or foolhardiness attendant upon 

I leaping from a tree-top or shed roof with an umbrella for 
a parachute, or any of the ingenious ideas shown in Mr. 
Bradley's cartoon on page 299, which any lad who has 
suffered the consequences by breaking a limb or smash- 
ing the dining table and other furniture in such reckless 
endeavors, will tell you are not a success ; instead, the auto- 
airship described and illustrated upon the following pages 
will provide a greater safety to the pilot than is afforded 
the coaster upon a toboggan-slide, or coaster railway, to- 

327 



A BOY'S AUTO-AIRSHIP 



329 



gether with many of the thrills of flying. As you will 
see by looking at Figs. 405 and 406, the rope cable along 
which the airship flies is hung low enough to keep the 




Fig. 406. — Making a Landing. 

course of the young aviator always close to the surface 
of good old Mother Earth. 

For the Framework of the Balloon (Fig. 407), procure 
eight barrel hoops and three i-by-2-inch strips 12 or 14 
feet long, and purchase at a hardware store two wooden 
single blocks (the size for J-inch rope, with hooks and beck- 
els, Fig. 411), 3 pounds of No. 12 steel wire, and |- pound 
of small copper staples (Fig. 408). 

From the i-by-2-inch strips cut A, B, C, and D 5 feet 
8 inches long, and crosspieces E, F, G, H, /, and / of 
the lengths show^n in the top view of the framework (Fig. 



330 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



409). Remove the beckets from the single blocks, un- 
screwing the bolts which hold them in the iron straps 
(Fig. 411), and bore a hole, the size of those in the straps, 
through strips C and D, \\ inches from each end. Then 



Rib-band 



VSTERN 




Fig. 411. Fig. 410. Fig. 409. 

Figs. 407 and 408. — Side and End Views of Framework of Balloon. 

Figs. 409 and 410. — Top and End Views showing Framework before Ribs 

and Rib-bands are attached. 
Fig. 411. — Wooden Single Block. 

bolt Cand D to the becket straps (Figs. 409 and 410), 
using 4-inch bolts. Nail the crosspieces to C and D, 
spacing them as shown in Fig. 409 ; then nail strips A 
and B to the crosspieces, and screw their ends to the 
wooden shells of the blocks (Fig. 410). Two nails should 
be used at each point of nailing, to insure a strong frame- 
work. 

The Barrel Hoop Ribs are fastened to the ends of the 
crosspieces (Fig. 407). Remove the nails which hold 
the hoops together, and turn in the ends until the inside 



A BOY'S AUTO-AIRSHIP 331 

diameters equal the length of the crosspieces, then drive 
several nails through the ends and clinch them on the 
inner side of the hoops. To build out the bow and stern 
of the framework (Fig. 407), cut the two remaining hoops 
in halves, cross a pair of these halves at right angles for 
each end, and fasten their centers together ; then nail the 
ends to the end ribs and drive in a nail at the points 
where the hoops cross strips A, B, C, and D (Fig. 408). 
Clinch ah nails wherever it is possible to do so. 

Cut Twelve Rib-bands from the No. 12 wire, fasten one 
across the bottoms of the ribs, another across the tops 
(Fig. 407), and space the remaining ten between them 
at equal distances. The intermediate rib-bands are shown 
in Fig. 408, but have been omitted in Fig. 407 to make 
that illustration clearer. Fasten the rib-bands to the ribs 
with staples (Fig. 408). 

Before inclosing the framework, cut twelve 6-foot 
lengths of heavy cord for 

Stays, and tie one to each rib just above the crosspiece 
(Fig. 407) ; also run a cord through the blocks, so that 
when you are ready to slip the balloon on to its rope 
cable, you can tie the end of the cord to the rope and, 
by means of it, pull the rope through the wheels of the 
blocks. 

You will require ^\ yards of cloth for . 

The Balloon Envelope. A black, brown, or gray cam- 
bric or muslin will make the most durable covering, but 
any cloth you can get, such as old sheets, can be used. 



332 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



Put the cloth on lengthwise of the framework in two 
strips, stretch it as smooth as possible, and fasten it to 
the ribs with tacks and to the rib-bands with thread. 
On top of the envelope sew a band of white cloth around 
the center of the balloon (Fig. 405). 

The Construction of the Car requires but little explana- 
tion, as Figs. 412 to 418 show the details clearly. Pro- 




FiG. 413. 



Fig. 416. 



Fig. 412. 
Fig. 412.— The Car. 

Fig. 413. — First Step in making over a Box for a Car. 
Fig. 414. — Gate for Front of Car. 
Figs. 415 to 418. — Details of Propeller. 

cure a box about 16 inches deep, 20 inches wide, and 
3 feet long; remove the bottom and one end, nail the 
bottom boards crosswise to form the car seat (Fig. 413), 
and saw off the projecting ends. Reenforce the sides 
of the box with vertical boards (Fig. 412). Cut the 
first two boards long enough to support the pitched foot- 



mm 



A BOY'S AUTO-AIRSHIP 333 

board, which should be fastened 14 inches below the 
seat, and make the first board on each side project i inch 
beyond the box (Fig. 412) to form a rabbet for the gate 
to set in. Nail cleats K and L to the side boards, where 
shown, and fasten the foot-board upon them. Fit the 
seat-riser between the seat and foot-board, make a seat 
back as shown in Figs. 412 and 415, and attach a pair of 
wagon whe :1s to the sides. 

Fasten the gate boards together with three battens, 
making the top and bottom battens long enough to pro- 
ject \\ inches on each side; drive a 20-penny (4-inch) 
nail through each end of the projecting battens, and 
screw four screw-eyes into the front of the car for 
sockets, in which to set them (Figs. 412 and 414). 

Bore eight f-inch holes through each side of the car, 
\\ inches below the top, through which to tie the stays 
(Fig. 412); then cut two 6-foot lengths of J-inch rope 
for the suspension stays, and tie the ends of one through 
the two front holes, and the ends of the other through 
the two rear holes (Fig. 412). 

The Propeller (Figs. 415 to 418) requires a hub strip 
I -by- 1 -by- 10 inches in size, with a 3^-inch slot in each 
end (Fig. 417), and two blades similar to Fig. 418. 
Notice that the slots are cut diagonally across the ends 
of the hub strip, and that one is at right angles to the 
other. Bore a J-inch hole through the center of one 
side of the hub strip (Fig. 417), then fasten the blades 
in the slots. Cut a stick 1 1 inches long for the propeller 



334 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

shaft (Fig. 415), fasten the propeller to one end, and in- 
sert the other end in a hole bored through the back of 
the car ; nail it securely in position, and brace it with a 
wooden bracket. 

If you stretch the cable for your airship upon a hill- 
side, you will require 

A Starting Platform just high enough to lift the car 
off the ground, but if the ground is level, or nearly so 
(Fig. 405), it will be necessary to construct a platform 
8 feet or so above the surface to give the rope cable 
sufHcient pitch. 

This platform is built between two trees, 3 or 4 feet 
apart, and is supported by four brackets. Each bracket 
consists of three pieces of 2-by-4, as you will see by look- 
ing at Fig. 405. Cut the piece marked M 4 feet long, 
and iV^and O 2 feet 6 inches long; miter the lower ends 
of N and (9, and let their upper ends into M. Nail 
the pieces together and spike two brackets to each tree ; 
then spike crosspieces P and Q across the trees, directly 
under top piece M of the brackets, as additional sup- 
ports. Cut the railing uprights R, S, and T 5 feet 
long, mortise the upper ends for the gate ( U) to slide 
through, and spike them to the brackets. Brace the 
lower ends with the diagonal pieces V and W, and their 
upper ends with boards X and Y, Cut the gate {U) 
long enough to reach from R to T, insert a short stick 
in a hole bored near one end, for a handle, and nail a 
strip across the other end to prevent it from pulling 



A BOY'S AUTO-AIRSHIP 33S 

through the mortise in upright R. Nail the platform 
boards in place, and fasten 

A Push-off Platform (Z) between the trees, 18 inches 
above the main platform, for the car. 

Build a ladder from the ground to the main platform. 

The Rope Cable. Purchase f-inch Manila rope for the 
cable, and gee whatever length you will require in one 
piece. Fasten one end of this rope to a tree a few feet 
in back of the upper station platform (Fig. 405), then 
run it through the single blocks in the balloon frame- 
work, and while you pull on the rope to take up as 
much of the slack as possible, have some one tie the 
lower end to the center of a rope stretched between two 
trees at the lower end of the airship's course (Fig. 406). 
If there doesn't happen to be a tree directly in back of 
the upper station, you can attach that end of the rope 
between two trees, in the same way that you fastened the 
lower end. Tie the lower end of the rope low enough 
so the car will run upon the ground for a few feet, 
and slow up, before reaching the end. Throw some 
loose earth over the point of landing, and from there as 
far as the end of the rope, to retard the speed of the 
wheels. 

To attach the Car, hitch the loops of the suspension 
stays over the block hooks (Fig. 405), and tie the ends 
of the intermediate stays through the holes in the sides 
of the car. 

To pull back the Airship to the Starting Platform, 



S36 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

attach a strong cord to the hook in the stern block, run 
it through a small pulley attached to the upper end of 
the cable (Fig. 405), and bring it down below the 
platform to a windlass constructed as shown in the 
illustration. 

If several of you boys club together in building an 
auto-airship, you will have to " toss up " to see who shall 
have the first ride ; then, after all of the " directors " and 
workmen have ridden, you will want your friends to 
enjoy a trip. By charging a small fare you can make 
the airship pay back, in a short time, what you have 
expended for material. 



r??^^"— ^TT!:^ 




Fig. 122. 




Fig. 134. 




Fig. 125. 



Fig. 133. 



Figs. 132 and 123. Tabourets. 
Fig. 124. Plant Stand. 
Fig. 125. Footstool. 




\ 



> 



^t^Hh^j^A ^hXzv 




''111 
I I 1 I J 



CHAPTER XXI 

CAMPING EQUIPMENT 




When the last day of school arrives, isn't it with a 
sense of relief that you pack up your books, carry them 
home, and throw them on to a high shelf, or into your 
bedroom closet — somewhere out of sight ? And isn't it 
hard to realize that you need not think of lessons again 
for more than two months, and that you are free to do 
whatever you choose for the balance of the summer days ? 
It used to be that way when the author was a boy, and 
conditions probably haven't changed much in this regard. 

Some of you boys will experience the joys of camping 
out for the first time this summer, — the trip which 
always remains freshest in one's memory, as it generally 
is so full of amusing incidents, — and those of you who 
have camped out before wnll probably not miss an oppor- 
tunity to do so again this year; but, if it is not possible 
for you to go away from town, there is no reason w^hy you 
cannot camp out near home, in some vacant lot, or in 
your back yard, or on the porch or roof. 

A Tent is one of the first parts of the camping equip- 
ment to look after. The prices of tents vary in different 

337 



33^ 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



locations, but you can get an 8 foot by lo foot " A " tent 
(Fig. 419) of lo-ounce duck, complete with poles and 
stakes, in New York, Chicago, Denver, or San Francisco, 
for about $7, and a wall tent of the same size (see photo- 



1 




Fig. 419. 



A" Tent. 



graph opposite page 340) for about $g, while ay^ will 
cost about one half as much as the tent. 

If you wish to make a tent yourself, you will not find 
the work difficult, and you will save considerable on the 
cost. The sewing together of the strips of canvas is 
the hardest part of the work for a boy ; probably your 
mother will be willing to do this for you on her sewing- 
machine. Eight-ounce duck, 29 inches wide, retails at 
about 15 cents a yard, and the lo-ounce weight, which 
is better for the purpose, at about 18 cents a yard. 

For making an "A" Tent of the size shown upon the 
diagram (Fig. 420), you will require 30 yards of material. 
The diagram shows the completed tent as it would appear 



CAMPING EQUIPMENT 



339 




when spread out flat upon the ground, and also the di- 
mensions for cutting the different lengths of canvas. You 
will see that strips A, B, C, and D are of equal length, 
and that strips E, G, /, and K are of one shape and 
size, as are also the tri- 
angular pieces F, H, /, 
and L and strips J/ and N. 
Lap each strip a full i inch 
over the edge of the ad- 
joining pieces, as indicated 
by the dotted lines on the 
diagram, and sew each 
seam near the edges with 
a double row of stitching. 
After all of the pieces 
have been cut and sewed 
together, turn back the 
outside edges i inch, as 
indicated by dotted lines, 




Fig. 420. — Diagram for Making an 
''A" Tent, 7 feet by 9 feet and 
5 inches. 



to finish them off and at the same time, reenforce them. 
Buy one dozen i-inch iron harness rings for the ridge and 
guy-rope eyelets, set two in the canvas at the ends of the 
ridge, and one at the end of each of the side seams, and 
buttonhole stitch them in place. The canvas should be 
reenforced with a square patch in the places where the 
eyelets are to be set in in the ridge. Sew canvas loops 
and straps to the flaps, in the locations indicated, and 
tie the guy-ropes through the eyelets provided for them. 



340 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



Figures 421 to 423 show the details for 
The Ridge-pole and Uprights. These should be cut out 
of pieces if inches square, which may be ripped out of a 
piece of 2-by-4. Cut the uprights about 5 feet 10 inches 
long, which will allow for setting the ends 3 inches into 
the ground, and the ridge-pole 9 feet 5 inches long. 
Round off the top of the ridge-pole as in Fig. 423. Drive 
a piece of f-inch or |-inch iron rod into one end of each 

upright (Fig. 422), and bore 
two holes, -| inch larger 
than the rods, through the 
ridge-pole in the proper 
positions for the rods to fit 
in (Fig. 421). A piece of 
tin bent around the ends 
of the pole, as in Fig. 423, 
will prevent the rods from 
splitting them. 

Fourteen Tent Stakes will 
be required, and these 
should be prepared at home, 
to save delay in pitching the tent after you reach your 
camping ground. 

Pitch your Tent upon a level spot, close to your water 
supply if possible, and dig a little trench around it to 
catch the surface rain-water, which would otherwise run 
into the tent; make a couple of outlets from the trench, 
on the low side, so the water will drain away. Do this 




I 



Fig. 421. 



Fig. 422. 



Fig. 421. — Connection of Ridge-pole 

with Upright. 
Fig. 422. — End of Upright. 
Fig. 423. — End of Ridge-pole. 




A-WALii Tent, Eight Feet by Te^^^ Feet, with Fey. 




Flapjacks for Two. 



I 



CAMPING EQUIPMENT 341 

trenching as soon as you have pitched your tent ; other- 
wise, you may be caught unprepared for a storm, and it 
is unpleasant to be compelled to do the work during a 
drenching rain. 

A Tent Ground-cloth, which should be of waterproof 
material, should be laid upon the ground and lapped 
up around the sides of the tent; this will prevent 
the dampness of the ground from penetrating your 
bedding. 

If there are spruce or pine trees in the vicinity of your 
camp, be sure 

To make a Mattress upon which to spread your blan- 
kets. Cut a number of boughs, and lop off enough of 
the tips of the branches to form a good-sized pile of twigs. 
Then carry these to your tent and, beginning at the 
proper point for the head of your bed, place a row of 
the twigs upon the ground-cloth with the tips toward the 
back of the tent. Next, place another layer of the twigs 
over these, and lap the tips over the butt ends of the first 
row, and continue to lay row after row in this manner, 
which is just the way in which the shingles on a roof 
are lapped, until you have reached the foot of the bed. 
The degree of softness of this mattress will depend en- 
tirely upon the care with which the twigs are placed and 
how well the butt ends are concealed by the tips. To 
avoid hard lumps, use only the slender portions of the 
branches. Spread your blanket upon the mattress, and 
your bed will be complete^ 



342 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

If the nights are cold in the region in which you intend 
to camp, take along 

A Sleeping-bag. By folding over your blanket along 
the center, lengthwise, and then sewing it along the side 
and across the bottom, a very satisfactory bag may be 
made. The author has found such a bag very comfort- 
able, and, when camping in the mountains where the 
temperature at night drops below "freezing," has used 
two of these bags, slipping one inside of the other, to give 
double warmth. With the top of the bag pulled snugly 
around your neck, there is no possibility for the cold air 
to reach you. The bag can be turned inside out every 
morning and aired. With covers in common, you are 
likely to awaken some night, feeling cold, to find that 
one of the other boys has been over-generous to himself 
with the clothes, unless you know how to " cling " to 
your portion ; but with a sleeping-bag you are safe from 
disturbance. 

Other Equipment. No two boys will carry the same 
equipment with them when going camping, and every 
boy will find after he has reached camp that he has taken 
along lots of needless things and left behind many articles 
which would add greatly to his comforts ; but this is some- 
thing which most campers experience, and it is doubtful if 
ever a man carries exactly the same outfit on two trips, for 
the reason that he is continually finding some way wherein 
he can make it more compact and complete. The great- 
est trouble lies generally in taking along too much. The 



CAMPING EQUIPMENT 343 

location of your camp will determine to a great extent 
what special articles should be included in the outfit, and 
an experienced camper, familiar with that part of the 
country, will be a good one to consult about your require- 
ments. 

A frying-pan, kettle, saucepan, baking pan, coffee-pot, 
wash-basin, two water pails, tin plates and cups, spoons, 
knives and forks, and a can-opener will be required for 
the kitchen outfit ; and towels, rags, soap, rope and twine, 
matches, a lantern and a can of kerosene oil, candles, an 
ax, a sharpening stone, hammer, saw and nails, will just 
about complete the general equipment. It is a good plan 
to take several sizes of nails, — 8-penny, lo-penny, 16- 
penny, and 20-penny, — for there will probably be things 
which you will wish to make while in camp. 

An Electric Flash Lamp is a very handy article to have 
for locating things in and about the tent, when you do 
not care to bother with lighting your lantern. 

Packing. Wrap your matches in paraffine paper, and 
then place them in a tin can to protect them from damp- 
ness ; and put all the other small articles of your equipment 
in small bags provided with draw strings ; salt and flour 
sacks may be fixed for the purpose. Pack the sacks, and 
all other things belonging to the general equipment 
which are not too bulky, in grocery boxes. When you 
get to camp, you will find the boxes handy for keeping 
things in, and those not required for this purpose will 
make good stools and will be good for setting things on. 



344 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



A Safety Match-box, a strong jack-knife, and fishing- 
tackle should be made a part of the personal equipment 
of each boy of the camping party, and if each has 

A Duffle Box (Fig. 424) in which to carry his outfit, he 
will save a general mix-up of things, possible loss of 

small articles, and result- 
ing unpleasantness with 
the other fellow whom he 
may think is to blame. 

A grocery box will serve 
the purpose, but this 
should be gone over care- 
fully, and all boards whose 
nails show signs of loosen- 
ing should have additional 
nails driven into them. 
Batten together the cover 
boards on the inside, hinge 
them to the box with strap- 
hinges, and fasten a hasp to the front so the box may be 
padlocked for transporting, and whenever you are away 
from camp. Handles may be made out of pieces of a 
strap, or several thicknesses of cloth tape, and be secured 
to the box with screws (Fig. 425). By fastening a piece 
of canvas or heavy cloth to the inside of the cover, 
over the battens (Fig. 426), tacking it along the bottom 
edge, and making buttonholes in the side and upper; 
edges to button over large-head tacks, the space be- 




FiG. 424.' 

Fig. 424. — Camp Duffle Box. 

Fig. 425. — Strap Handle. 

Fig. 426. — Pocket on Inside of Cover. 



CAMPING EQUIPMENT 345 

tween the battens will serve as a pocket for writing 
materials. 

If any boy in your party has had experience in camp 
cooking, leave to him the matter of purchasing 

Food Supplies. But if you are all " green " at it, you 
had better get your mothers to help you make out your 
grocery list. Each mother will have a pretty fair idea 
of the size of her son's appetite, and it ought to be an 
easy matter for her to estimate on the proper quantities 
and varieties of supplies to do him. But she should be 
warned, beforehand, to allow for an increased appetite ; 
also to select such things as can easily be prepared. 
Then compare all the lists and compile one complete list 
from them. 

Fish and game may possibly be secured while in camp, 
but it is best not to count upon this as a certainty, and 
to take along plenty of everything, unless you know that 
your camp will be within easy reach of supplies. 

If you are to be Cook, find out how to make flapjacks, gra- 
ham muffins, biscuits, and johnny-cake, and watch your 
mother to see how she prepares breakfast cereals, coffee, 
and tea ; also try your hand at cooking these things 
while at home, instead of waiting until you get into camp 
and starving your companions, as well as yourself, during 
the experimental period. It will save lots of unpleasant- 
ness all around. 

The trouble met with in 

Making an Open Fire for cooking generally arises from 



346 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



getting it too large, so that it is all blaze and smoke. 
What is necessary is a small fire of hot coals. If you 
have watched an experienced camper prepare his fire, 
you have noticed that he confines it to a small place. 

The Backwoodsman's Scheme of building his fire between 
two logs placed alongside of each other, about 6 inches 
apart at one end and 1 2 inches apart at the other end (Fig. 




Fig. 427. — The Backwoodsman's Camp Fireplace. 

427), is very satisfactory for a fireplace, as the fire is con- 
fined between the logs, and, by keeping the wide opening 
turned toward the wind, a splendid draft is obtained. 

The logs should be green, and, to prevent the fire from 
getting under them, it is well to plaster mud against their 
inner faces. Two forked branches are driven into the 
ground, one at each end of the fireplace, and a horizontal 
pole, known as a lug pole, rests in the forks and supports 
the pothooks. 



CAMPING EQUIPMENT 



347 



The Pothooks may be made from forked sticks cut to 
the proper length, with nails driven into them near the 
lower ends (Fig. 428), or out of pieces of heavy wire bent 
into hooks at one end and loops at the other end (Fig. 
429), the loops being made large enough so they will slide 
back and forth on the lug pole. 
Both the stick and wire pothooks 
may be made short enough to 
accommodate the largest pot you 
have, and then lengthened to suit 
the small utensils by means of 
S-shaped extension hooks bent out 
of wire (Fig. 430) . A piece of tin 
from an empty tin can may be 
tacked across the logs for the 
coffee-pot and for handleless uten- 
sils which are too small for the 
logs to support. 

Such a fireplace as the above Fig. 430. -Extension Hook. 

can be built anywhere, even in a back yard, with per- 
fect safety, and any boy can use his ingenuity to rig up 
his pothooks and supports out of plain sticks if he can- 
not find suitable branches for the purpose. 

A Sheet-iron Camp Stove, such as is shown in the pho- 
tograph opposite page 340, is very commonly used by 
campers, and is handier and easier to cook on than the 
open fire. A stove of the size shown in the illustration 
can usually be bought complete with stovepipe for $1.50. 




Fig. 428. 

Fig. 428. —Stick Pothook. 
Fig. 429. — Wire Pothook. 



348 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

A Dutch Oven is a good substitute for the camp stove, 
and answers almost every purpose. It consists of a 
shallow iron pan or kettle, supported upon iron legs and 
furnished with a tight-fitting cover. It is set in a bed 
of red-hot coals, then after the biscuits, muffins, beans, 
meat, fish, or other food which is to be baked, stewed, or 
roasted is placed in the pan, the cover is fitted on and 
hot coals are heaped up at the sides and over the top. A 
medium-sized oven will cost ^i.oo. 

A Camp Fireless Cooker is another handy contrivance, 
inasmuch as food can be prepared in it while you are 
away from camp, so that it will be ready to eat imme- 
diately upon your return at night tired and hungry. A 
cooker may be constructed out of a grocery box; and 
hay or dried leaves may be used for packing. See direc- 
tions on page 136 for making a fireless cooker. By 
setting the cooker box into a hole in the ground, and 
throwing earth over the cover after placing the food 
within, the insulation will be more nearly perfect. 

To build a Fire properly, whittle a few shavings and 
cut a number of small sticks, — some to about the size 
of a lead-pencil and others a little larger, — spread the 
shavings along the bottom of the fireplace, and upon 
these pile up the sticks, loosely and crisscrossed, so as to 
allow plenty of openings for draft. Set fire to the shav- 
ings, and as soon as the sticks have kindled, add a few 
larger pieces of wood to the pile ; but be careful not to 
put on too many pieces before the fire has made a good 



CAMPING EQUIPMENT 



349 



start, or you will choke out the flame. A good fire is 
obtained only by careful building, and requires continual 
attention to be satisfactory for camp cooking. 

Always keep a good supply of wood at hand, some 
place under cover where it will be protected from rain 
and dew, so you will never be without dry wood with 
which to kindle your fire. 

Camp Furniture. A table and a few seats add to the 
comforts of camp life, and the making of these furnishes 
interesting occupation for days when you wish to stay 
around camp. The three tools 
mentioned among the camp equip- 
ment are all that are necessary for 
making camp furniture, because fine 
work is neither required nor desir- 
able in the woods. 

Figure 431 shows 

A Camp Chair that is easily made. 
You will notice that the edges of all 
the pieces are left square, instead of 
being beveled to fit the adjoining 
surfaces, that the seat board B is 
nailed to the diagonal brace C, and 
the two fastened to the chair back A, with cleats D 
and E nailed on to support them, and that the diagonal 
leg F is slanted as much as you wish to have the chair 
back slant, and is braced by the two side braces G. 

A Camp Table (Fig. 432). By fastening together several 




Fig. 431. — A Camp Chair. 



35° 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



1 



boards with battens, a good table top can be made, and 
this may be supported at one end on a cleat nailed across 

a tree trunk (Fig. 433), 
and at the other end 
on a couple of stakes 
driven into the ground 
(Fig. 432). 

Boxes can usually be 
picked up in the vicin- 
ity of an old camp, and 
these, added to those 
in which you brought 
your outfit, can be util- 
ized for many things. 




Fig. 432. 
Fig. 433. 



Fig. 432. 
A Camp Table and Bench. 
Cleat Support on Tree. 



A Good Table Bench is obtained by laying a plank across 
the tops of two boxes (Fig. 432), and 

A Comfortable Box Bench is made by removing one side 
of a box, then placing the 
box on the ground, bottom 
up, and constructing a 
back as shown in Fig. 434. 
To keep it from overturn- 
ing, nail the box to stakes 
driven into the ground. 
Use your ingenuity in 
constructing 

Box Cupboards to hang in 
the tent and upon the trees. ^'^' 434- 




A Comfortable Box Bench. 



^^$,^4b^S,^:k ^ E 




CHAPTER XXII 

A HOME-MADE PUNT 




Good workmanship is necessary in boat building, not 
so much for the sake of appearance as for safety and dur- 
ability, but neat appearance will not be found lacking 
in a properly planned and carefully built boat. The 
nearer a boat approaches the square lines of a box, the 
easier it is to build, and it is well for a boy to try one of 
the simplest forms, such as the punt shown in Fig. 435, 
for a first attempt. The principles of boat building are 
easily learned, and after you have constructed a punt you 
will have had enough experience to enable you to tackle 
other forms of craft of more complicated construction. 

Dimensions. The punt shown in the illustration is 12 
feet long, 3 feet 6 inches wide, and 18 inches deep, but 
these dimensions can easily be increased or reduced if 
you wish a boat of other proportions. 

Material. Get pine or cypress for your building ma- 
terial, and be sure to see that it is well seasoned, dry, and 
free from knots and other defects. Stock 18 inches wide 
is generally hard to find, nowadays, in most localities, 
so probably you will have to use an 8-inch and a lo-inch 

351 



35= 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



board, or a 6-inch and a 1 2-inch board, for each side. The 
bottom boards should be either 4 or 6 inches wide and 




Fig. 435- 
Fig. 435. — A Home-made Punt. 
Fig. 436. — How the Bottom Boards are Put On. 
Fig. 437. — Bevel off the Bottom Edge of the Stem and Stern Pieces. 

have plain edges, not tongued and grooved, and the seats 
may be made of any scraps you have on hand. 



-:^||; 



W^ 






Fig. 438. — Batten Together the Side Boards like this. 

Figure 438 shows how 

The Side Boards should be battened together. Make 
the center batten 10 inches wide and the other two bat- 
tens about 4 inches wide ; fasten the latter in place about 



A HOME-MADE PUNT 353 

24 inches from the ends. Short nails will not hold such 
pieces as battens very well, and the clinching of long 
nails, where they are exposed to view, is not very desir- 
able, so it is a good plan to use screws of the proper 
length for the purpose. 

When the boards of the side pieces have been battened 
together, locate the points B 4 inches below the top edge, 
then connect them with points A by the diagonal lines 
AB, as shown, and saw off the ends on these lines. 

Cut the Stem and Stern Pieces 4 inches wide and 3 feet 
4 inches long, then turn the side pieces over on their 
top edge as shown in Fig. 436, and fit these pieces be- 
tween their ends. 

Cut the Bottom Boards 3 feet 6 inches long, out of the 
4-inch or 6-inch boards mentioned before. Coat the edges 
of the side pieces and the edges of each bottom board 
with white lead, and drive each board as close as possible 
to the preceding piece. Use copper or galvanized nails 
for fastening the boards; these will stand the exposure 
to water, but wire or wrought-iron nails without galva- 
nizing will not, and will soon rust through and break off. 

The bottom edge of the stem and stern pieces will have 
to be beveled off with a plane as shown in Fig. 437, as will 
also one edge of the first and last bottom boards, and one 
edge of the bottom boards at the ridges, in order to make 
the boards fit together perfectly at those points. 

Fasten an Inner Keel Board to the bottom of your boat 
along the center, from bow to stern, as a protection to 



354 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 




Fig. 439. — The End Seat. 



the bottom boards, and nail a cleat to it in the proper 
place to brace your feet against while rowing. 
Figure 435 shows the arrangement of the three 
Seats. Fasten these to cleats placed about 3 inches below 
the top of the sides. Make the center seat out of a lo-inch 

board, and the end seats 
out of a lo-inch and an 
8-inch board (which will 
make them about 18 
inches wide), and nail a 
short batten across the 
under side of the end seats 
as shown in Fig. 439, to pre- 
vent them from springing 
apart and catching one's 
clothes between them. 

Rowlocks. A pair of gal- 
vanized wrought-iron row-' 
locks, of the form shown in 
Fig. 440, can be purchased 
for 25 or 30 cents, and it is 
an easy matter to make the 
socket blocks for them to 
set in (Fig. 441). Cut two 
blocks about 8 inches long, 
I J inches wide, and 2 inches 
thick ; bevel the ends, and 
bore a ^-inch hole near each 




Fig. 440. 




_U=r:=l^ Fig. 442. 



Fig. 443. 

Figs. 440 and 441. — Rowlocks. 
Figs. 442 and 443. — Thole-pins. 



A HOME-MADE PUNT 



355 



end for bolting, and a ^-inch hole from the center of the 
top down through each for the rowlock to drop into. The 
socket plate (Fig. 440), which comes with the rowlock, 
should be set into the block flush with the top. Bolt the 
blocks to the sides of the punt (Fig. 441) so the centers 
will be 14 inches from the center of the center seat. 

In case you cannot conveniently get rowlocks, 

Thole-pins may be made and used as a substitute. 
Figure 442 shows a pin cut from a piece of broom-handle, 
and Fig. 443 shows how a pair of them should be set 
into holes bored in a block similar to those shown for the 
rowlocks. The holes for the pins should be placed about 
3 inches apart. 

The Painter may be knotted on the end and slipped 
through a hole bored in the stem piece, and a circular 
notch may be cut in the top edge of the stern piece to 
admit an oar or paddle for steering. 

Finishing. Set all nail-heads, putty up the holes thus 
made, and all other holes and defects, and then give the 
boat two or three coats of lead paint, inside and out, in 
color to suit your taste. 




I I ! L 



CHAPTER XXIII 

A HOME-MADE SHARPIE 



'\\\.--ill--\\\r/// {\\ 




Although there is more work to the construction of 
a sharpie than the punt described in the last chapter, it 
is much easier to row on account of its wedge-shaped 
bow; at the same time, the material required will cost 
no more than that for the other boat. The flat-bottom 
boat is generally considered one of the best forms of 
cheap rowboats, and you will find it in common use 




Fig. 444. — A Home-made Sharpie. 

upon the rivers and small lakes, at summer resorts and 
at private piers. It is not difficult to build one. 

Dimensions. Figure 444 shows a sharpie 13 feet long, 
3 feet 6 inches wide amidships, and 18 inches deep, 

356 



A HOME-MADE SHARPIE 



357 



You may alter these proportions if you wish, but, in case 
you do, draw out your revised plan and figure out the 
sizes for all the pieces before beginning work, so that 
every part will fit properly. 

As it is difficult to get boards wider than 14 inches, 




Fig. 449. 

Fig. 445. — Pattern for the Side Pieces. 

Fig. 446. — Two Forms of Stem-piece. 

Fig. 447. — Pattern for the Stern-piece. 

Fig. 448. — Pattern for the Stretcher. 

Fig. 449. — How the Above Pieces are put Together. 

and 12 inches is usually the widest stock material, you 
will have to use either a 12-inch and a 6-inch board, or a 
lo-inch and an 8-inch board, for 
The Side Pieces. The boards should be of i-inch stock, 



358 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

and should be dressed on both sides. Figure 445 shows 
the pattern for the lower boards, with the dimensions 
for cutting the slants on the bow and stern ends. 

Cut the Stem-piece like one of the forms shown in Fig. 
446. A is the simpler form to cut, but B makes the 
neater appearing bow, as it finishes off the ends of the 
side pieces; the side boards fit into the rabbets cut in 
the sides of piece B. If form A is used, the ends of 
the side pieces must be finished off by nailing a strip 3 
inches wide to the edges of the side pieces and the stem- 
piece (C, Fig. 452). 

Figure 447 shows the pattern for 

The Stern-piece, and Fig. 448 shows the pattern for 

The Stretcher, both of which should be prepared as 
soon as the stem-piece has been cut. 

To put together the sides, stem-and stern-pieces, and 
the stretcher (Fig. 449), first nail the ends of the side 
pieces to the stem-piece, then nail them to the ends of 
the stretcher, which should be placed in the exact center 
of the length of the sides. Draw the stern ends toward 
each other until they are of the required distance apart 
for the stern-piece to fit between, and tack a temporary 
piece across the edges to hold them in position (Fig. 
449). It is necessary to bend each side piece the same 
amount, in order to turn out a boat which will not have 
a tendency to swerve to one side with each stroke of the 
oars, and the best way to get the sides symmetrical is by 
attaching a cord to a nail driven into the center of the 



A HOME-MADE SHARPIE 



359 



end of the stem-piece, stretching it along the entire 
length of the boat and holding it at the center of the 
stern-piece (Fig. 449) ; if this crosses the center of the 
stretcher, you may know that the work is right, and you 
can fasten the stern ends permanently in place; if it 
does not cross the stretcher at the center, it will be a 
simple matter to bend one side piece a little more and the 
other a little less, until the string crosses the center of 
the bow, stern, and stretcher in a straight line. 

The stretcher may be fastened permanently in place, 
or the nails may be driven part way in (Fig. 450) so 




Fig. 450. — How the Bottom Boards are put On. 

they may be removed and the stretcher taken out after 
the center seat has been put in place and the bracing is 
no longer required. The top boards of the sides should 
be nailed on as soon as the framework has been trued 
up, and the ends of these should be cut off even with the 
stem- and stern-pieces. 

The Bottom Boards should be either 4-inch or 6-inch 
boards of i-inch stock, dressed on two sides and two 
edges. Get the dryest material you can, for the pieces 



360 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



must not shrink to any marked degree after being put 
in place or the seams will open and cause the boat to 
leak ; dry stuff will swell when exposed to the water, and 
the seams will close up very tight. The boards must 
not have tongued-and-grooved edges. Before putting on 
the boards, it will be necessary to plane off the bottom 
edges of the side pieces, because, as a result of the 
change in the twist of the boards between the bow and 
stern, these edges will be slightly curved. Do this work 
carefully so as to provide a straight and true surface to 
nail the bottom to. Cut the boards a little longer than 
is necessary, and then, starting at the stern end, nail the 
pieces in place, driving each board as tight as possible 
against the preceding piece. The edges of the boards 
and the side pieces should be given a thick coat of white 
lead to caulk up the seams. See instructions given for 

putting on the bottom of the 

Punt{^^^^ 353). 

It will not be necessary to 

attach a keel along the entire 

length of the bottom of the boat, 

but 

A Skeg should be prepared 

for the sloping stern as shown 
in Fig. 451. This triangular piece may be cut out of 
I -inch stuff and should be of the proper size so, when 
nailed in place, the lower edge will line up with the 
straight part of the bottom of the boat, and the end will 




Fig. 451. 



— Attachment of 
Skee'. 



A HOME-MADE SHARPIE 



361 



line up with the face of the stern-piece. The illustration 
shows how the piece should be attached and braced with 
small wooden strips. The skeg must be in an exact line 
with the center of the bow and stern ; its position can be 
determined by stretching a cord through the centers. 
The strip at the end of the skeg not only holds this 
piece to the stern, but forms a strip in which to screw 
the screw-eyes for the rudder hooks. 

Fasten an Inner Keel Board in the bottom as described 
on page 353 for the Punt, 

Seats should be fastened in the bow and stern ends and 
in the center as shov/n in Fig. 444. These should be sup- 
ported upon cleats, and the neatest way to put on the cleats 
is to make them continuous as shown in the illustration, 
and fasten them low enough so they will cover the seams 
between the side boards. Batten together the pieces of 
the bow and stern seats as shown 
in Fig. 439, page 354. 

The Bow of the Boat should be 
completed next. If you have made 
a wedge-shaped stem-piece {A, 
Fig. 446), cut strip C (Fig. 452) 
3 inches wide, and long enough 
to extend from li inches above 




Fig. 452. — Finishing of Bow. 



the stem-piece down to the under 

side of the bottom boards ; then 

prepare two triangular pieces similar to D to fit against 

strip C and screw them in place as shown. If stem-piece 



362 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



B was used (Fig. 446), fit two pieces similar to D 
(Fig. 452) against it in the same way. 

For the Painter secure a small staple, and a yacht or 
harness iron ring, and attach these to the bow as shown 
in Fig. 452. 

An Easily Made Rudder is shown in Figs. 453 to 457. 
Figure 453 shows it completed; Fig. 454 shows how screw- 
eyes are screwed into the strip fastened to the stern-piece, 





Fig. 453. 



Fig. 456. 

Fig. 454- 
Figs. 453-457. — Details of an Easily Made Rudder. 

into which to hook the rudder hooks ; and Figs. 455, 456, 
and 457 show the details for constructing the rudder. 

The cross-bar of the rudder (Fig. 457) should be 
mortised to receive the end of the rudder, as shown, 
and a hole should be bored through the rudder through 
which to drive a pin to hold the cross-bar in place 
(Fig. 455). Get two 7-inch iron hooks {A, Fig. 456), 
bend the ends out straight, and then bend a new 4-inch 
hook on each {B^ Fig. 456). Screw these hooks in the 



A HOME-MADE SHARPIE 363 

proper positions so they will hook into the screw-eyes in 
the stern. 

The Rowlock Blocks should be prepared and attached as 
shown in Fig. 441 or Fig. 443, page 354, and either 

Rowlocks or Thole-pins should be fitted into them (Figs. 
440 and 442, page 354). 

Finish the Boat as directed for the Punt (see page 
355). 



^j^ r^MiJ^Ar^HXiv "" 




1_L 



J ' 



CHAPTER XXIV 



PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER 
HOME-MADE WAGONS 



\y..-(ih^\v-}ll {\\ 




With the necessary wheels in hand, it is possible to 
make all sorts of wagons, from a simple two-wheeled dog- 
cart to a model automobile. There are a number of 
sources from which a boy can procure wheels if he 
doesn't own any. Oftentimes a pair can be picked up 
at a second-hand store or at a junk shop, for 50 or 75 
cents a pair ; sometimes a neighbor who has a grown son 
can find a few for you by a little rummaging through the 
shed or barn loft; and often you will run across a boy with 
whom you can strike a good bargain. Wagon, bicycle, tri- 
cycle, velocipede, and baby-carriage wheels may be used. 

A Pushmobile is a unique form of home-made wagon 
that has been developed from the simple wagons which 
the boys used to make for coasting, and for pushing from 
behind, when the automobile was unknown. It is pat- 
terned as nearly as possible after an automobile, and it is 
pushed by the mechanician, who runs behind, while the 
driver rides and attends to the steering. Working de- 
tails for making one of these unique wagons are shown 
in Figs. 458 to 471. 

364 








Some of the Competing Cars in the Flushing Pushmobile 
Club Races. 



PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS 365 

Paul Towne of Flushing, Long Island, was probably 
the first boy to build a pushmobile, and as a result of the 
rivalry which sprang up among the boys who made 




Fig. 458. — A Pushmobile. 

similar "machines," each of whom claimed superior ad- 
vantages for his car, 

The Flushing Pushmobile Club was organized in the 
autumn of 1906 for the purpose of promoting pushmo- 
bile races. The Brooklyii Daily Times of Dec. 15, 1906, 
contained an interesting account of the work of the club, 
from which the following details of several of its races 
are taken : — 

" The Flushing Club has held three great races during its active ca- 
reer. The first was an intersuburban affair and was to determine 
whether championship honors should go to Flushing, College Point, or 
Bayside, membership in the club being from all these * foreign ' coun- 
tries. The honors in this race went to Flushing, for President Paul 



366 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

Towne and his brother Herbert were the winners. The second race was 
for the Vanderbilt cup, so called. Many of the Murray Hill and Flush- 
ing merchants contributed toward it, but the largest individual subscrip- 
tion came from Mr. Vanderbilt. The trophy was valued at over ^50. 
According to the deed of gift the trophy must be won three times to be- 
come the property of the winner. The first race for this cup ended in a 
fluke, for the car winning the race was protested. It was then decided 
that the race should be run over. The second event was won by Brown 
and Lawrence, who won the first race. This was a very popular victory 
under the circumstances. The third big event was a race for the Reiger 
cup, a beautiful trophy presented by Charles Reiger of Flushing. This 
event brought out the full strength of the club, for there were twenty 
cars in the race. The trophy was won by Donahue and Johnson." 

The photographs opposite page 364 show several of 
the competing machines, while those opposite this page 
show the start of one of the club's races and one of the 
winning teams. The winning team in 

The Vanderbilt Cup Race covered the course, which 
was ten times around a city block, in 27 minutes and 12 
seconds. This was one of the most interesting races. 

You will notice by the photographs that the boys have 
shown considerable ingenuity in working out the plans 
for their pushmobiles. Various kinds and sizes of 
wheels have been used; some of the bodies are built low 
and others high ; some of the models have been copied 
after foreign racing machines, and others have been pat- 
terned after roadsters and runabouts. The hoods have 
been made of grocery boxes, sheet metal, barrel hoops 
covered with canvas, or built up with box boards ; and one 
boy, who wanted to get the pointed nose effect of the 





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5S 












^*^iij» ". ^^- ■■• -" ,i- \. - 


MgM^^^^^aH 


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Winning Cak in the Vanderbilt Cup Race. 




At the Start Off. A Flushing Pushmobile Club Race. 



1 



PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS 367 

French racer, used the sawed-off bow of a row boat for 
his. To furnish the " chug," "chug," and " smell " of the 
automobile, one lad equipped a dummy car with a gaso- 
line engine, and this was run over the course for the 
benefit of the spectators. 

The Brooklyn Daily Times published the following 
interesting 

Description of a Pushmobile Race : — 

"Is a pushmobile race exciting? Ask any of the hundreds of spec- 
tators who crowd the course. They will tell you that it is almost as 
interesting as a real auto race. There will be men and women with 
score-cards, pencils, and stop-watches. The cars are timed for each lap. 
Seconds count as much, if not more, than in the big races. The cars 
come singly, three, four, and half a dozen at a time. It takes an expert 
to keep all the records accurately. This car is now ahead, and then 
that one leads. One car is gaining a lap on all the rest and looks like a 
winner. There are spurts in which the boys on the cars use every bit 
of strength and endurance they possess. As the contest comes to a 
close, it is seen that some two or three are leading. Now if no accident 
happens, if only there is not a breakdown ! That is the hope expressed 
by each man and woman with the score-card. Then the rush for the 
finish. The first car to complete the ten laps, and then the figuring for 
elapsed time, and finally the declaration of the winner and the shouts 
for the successful car." 

Now, boys, if you have not become fired with enthusiasm 
after reading the above accounts of the work of the 
Flushing Pushmobile Club, the author has missed his 
guess ; if you have, get to work and construct a machine 
like the one shown in Fig. 458 and described upon the 
following pages, then show it to your boy friends, and the 



368 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

chances are there will be enough machines in your town 
within a few days to make it possible to 

Organize a Pushmobile Club, or to make pushmobile 
racing a feature of your present neighborhood or school 
club. 

To construct a Pushmobile. When procuring wheels 
for a pushmobile, get the iron axle rods and nuts and 
washers that belong to the wheels, if possible ; it will be 
easy enough to refit nuts and washers to the axles if they 
are lost, but if you cannot get the axles or find another 
pair that will do, you will have 

To make New Axles. A couple of round iron rods of 
the proper diameter to fit the hubs of your wheels can be 
procured at almost any hardware store, wagon shop, or 
blacksmith shop, and you can have them cut to the 
proper length, threaded for nuts, and drilled in two 
places near each end, by a machinist, plumber, or gas- 
fitter. You will have to decide upon the width of your 
wagon before you can determine the length for the rods, 
and of course the length of the wheel hubs will have to 
be considered also. The first hole in the rod is provided 
for an iron pin, the purpose of which is to keep the wheel 
from running too far back on the axle, and the second 
hole is made for a stove-bolt or screw for fastening the 
iron axle to the wooden axle and wagon-bed (Figs. 477 
and 478). 

The Wooden Axles should be constructed first (Figs. 
459 and 460). The sizes of these will depend upon the 



PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS 369 



length of the iron axles, the height of the wheels, and 
whether you want a high or low body. The drawings 
show a machine with a body that is higher than most of 



KiNG-BOtT, 




E 



F 



Fig. 460. — The 
Front Axle. 



Fig. 461. — Brace for the 
Front Axle. 



D 



Fig. 459. — The 
Rear Axle. 



those shown in the photographs, but this makes a car 
that is easier for the mechanician to push, for he does 
not have to stoop over as much. After cutting out 
piece A, you must make B and C of the proper widths 
so the top of B will be level with the top of A when the 
wheels are in place. C is fastened to B by means of a 
king-bolt (Fig. 460). 

Connect the wooden axles by means of a piece of 2- 
by-2 {D, Figs. 459 to 462), and brace the king-bolt of the 
front axle to this strip with an iron strap, to prevent it 
from bending (Fig. 461); the brace should be about -^ 
inch thick and i inch wide, and should be bent and 
drilled as shown in Fig. 461. 

The Wagon-bed pieces E and F are 2-by-4's and connect 
the tops of axle pieces A and B, to which they are nailed. 
These will be of whatever length you have determined to 
make your car. 

For the Steering-wheel get an old sewing-machine 
driving-wheel, if possible, and use a broom-handle for a 



370 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 




■ FJ|\^SCBEW 



Fig. 462. — Framework of the Pushmobile. 
(The front end of the strip F is broken off so that you can see the steering-gear.) 

shaft (Fig. 463). Screw the wheel to the end of the 
broom-handle (Fig. 465). If you cannot get a sewing- 
machine wheel, a wooden or iron wagon-wheel may be 
wired to the end of the broom-handle (Fig. 466). The 

shaft must be provided 
with a drum upon which 
to fasten the steering ropes 
(Figs. 462 and 463), and 
this drum should be made 
out of three circular blocks 
as shown in Fig. 464. 
Lay out the center block 

3 inches in diameter, and 
the outer, or flange, blocks 

4 inches in diameter, and 
before cutting them out 




Fig. 463. Fig. 464. 

Fig. 463. — Steering-wheel and Shaft 
for the Pushmobile. 

Fig. 464. — Three Disks like these for 
Drum of Steering-wheol Shaft. 

Fig. 465. — How to attach a Sewing- 
machine Wheel to a Broom-handle. 

Fig. 466. — How to wire a Wagon 
Wheel to a Broom-handle. 



PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS 371 

bore a i-inch hole through the center of each. Nail the 
blocks together, and slip the completed drum over the 
end of the broom-handle ; but do not fasten the drum 
in place until after you have mounted the shaft on the 
framework. 

Fasten a board to the wagon-bed, as shown at G (Fig. 
462), on blocks similar to H and /; the blocks must be cut 
to the proper slant so the position of the board will be 
at right angles to the steering-wheel shaft. Then fasten 
the cross-piece / to the under side of strip D with a bolt 
and nails. Board G should have a i-inch hole bored 
through its center for the steering shaft to turn in, and 
a hole should be bored part way through strip D, directly 
in line with the hole in G, for a socket for the end of the 
shaft. To connect the drum on the shaft to the wheels, 
take some strong rope, pass it around the drum, cross the 
ends on the under side (Fig. 463), run them through screw- 
eyes screwed into the cross-piece / on each side of strip 
D, and attach them to the ends of the wooden axle. It is 
important to cross the rope after passing it around the 
drum, for otherwise the pushmobile would turn to the 
left when you turn the wheel to the right, and vice versa. 

When the steering-gear has been carefully adjusted, 
fasten the drum to the shaft with a screw, and screw or 
nail the steering line to the drum ; also drive a pin into 
the broom-handle about \ inch in front of board G to pre- 
vent the shaft from pulling out of place (Figs. 462 and 
463). 



372 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



When the frame of the pushmobile has been completed, 
it is a simple matter to finish the body. 

The Hood is made out of a box with the cover and bottom 
removed, and a three-sided top constructed upon it. If you 
cannot find a box of the right size, you can cut down a 
large box or build the hood out of boards. Figures 458 



Fig. 470. 




Fig. 471. 



Fig. 467. — Radiator-front. 
Fig. 468. — Lard-can Headlight and Bracket. 
Fig. 469. — Clock-case and Can for Side Lamps. 
Fig. 470. — The Completed Clock-case Side Lamp. 
Fig. 471. — Seat for Auto Wagon. 

and 467 show the shape of the top. Fasten a small pill 
box to the top of the hood, as shown, for the cap to the 
"radiator" (Fig. 458). 

After fastening the hood to the frame of the pushmobile, 
tack a piece of screen wire over the front for 

The Radiator-front, and then attach a strip of tin around 
the edge, as shown in Fig. 467, to finish it off. 



PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS 373 

The Seat, back, and arms of the body are made out of a 
box cut down, and the rear end is built up of boards. 

Headlights. Two lard cans with their covers fitted on 
make splendid imitation headlights (Fig. 468). Cut two 
wooden brackets similar to A (Fig. 468), nail or screw 
them to the sides of the radiator-front, and then nail 
or screw the cans to the brackets and to the radiator- 
front. 

Side Lamps. Bicycle lamps may be used for these, or 
you can make lamps out of the cases of two old alarm- 
clocks (Figs. 469 and 470). 

To make a Clock-case Side Lamp, remove the works from 
the case and put back the screws necessary to hold the 
glass in place ; then cut a f-inch hole through the center 
of the bottom for the candle, and wire the case to the 
top of a small tin can of about the size of a i -pound 
paint can, punching holes through the clock-case and 
the can through which to run the wire. The candle 
sets down in the can and is lighted by removing the 
tin back of the clock-case. Nail or screw the case to the 
side of the hood. 

Paint your Machine with two coats of paint, using any 
color you choose. Of course you will want to make the 
body of one color and the trimmings of another. 

Paint your License Number upon the radiator-front with 
white or red paint. 

A Racing Pushmobile may have a much simpler body 
than the machine just described, or you may make por- 



374 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

tions removable so the machine may be dismantled for a 



race. 



An Auto Wagon. The wagon shown in Fig. 472 has a 
body built similar to that of the pushmobile, except that 




Fig. 472. — An Auto Wagon. 

the bed is made solid out of boards i inch thick. Make 
the sides out of 8-inch boards with a 2-inch strip nailed 
along the top edge, and make the dashboard out of two 
pieces of board battened together. 

The Steering-wheel should be made out of a sewing- 
machine wheel and piece of gas-pipe as shown in Fig. 
473. Get a gas-fitter to prepare a piece of gas-pipe with 




PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS 375 



Screw-eve 



a T connection at one end, and a short piece of pipe 
run through the T crosswise, as shown in the illustra- 
tion, and have him drill a hole through the vertical piece 
of pipe near the upper end, and two holes through the 
cross-piece — one near each end. Screw two screw-eyes 
into the inside face of the dashboard, then slip the steer- 
ing shaft through a hole bored through the bottom of 
the wagon-bed, and through the screw- 
eyes. Fasten the wheel to the end of 
the pipe by means of a metal pin driven 
through the hole in the pipe and wheel 
hub, wrap some wire around the pipe 
on a line with the top of the dashboard, 
and solder it in place, to keep the pipe 
from slipping down (Fig. 473), and run 
rope or chain from the ends of the lower 
cross-piece to the axle ends. 

Another Steering-gear. The steering 
shaft and cross-piece may be made of wood, but of course 
the iron pipe scheme is much stronger and is much better 
in the case of the auto wagon, where the weight of the 
driver comes directly over the wheels, bringing a greater 
strain upon each part. If you want to, you may rig up 
a dummy steering-wheel and shaft, and provide for steer- 
ing by running ropes from the axle ends around the sides 
of the wagon to the back, where the mechanician can 
attend to it. It might be a good plan to provide for this 
method of steering, anyway, so in case you give a child 




Fig. 473. — Details of 
a Sewing-machine 
Wheel and Gas-pipe 
Steering wheel. 



376 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



a ride at any time you can place him in the front seat and 
do the steering yourself from the rear. 

Build the Seat as shown in Fig. 471, and screw a hook 
into each end of the seat, and a screw-eye into each side 
of the wagon in the proper position for it to hook into, 
to hold it securely to the wagon sides. 

Procure a Trip Gong for the front of the dashboard, or 
fasten an electric bell upon it and place a dry battery in- 
side of the wagon. 

Figure 474 shows 

A Simple Push Wagon. A 2 -inch plank, 6 or 8 inches 
in width, should be procured for 




Fig. 474. — A Simple Push Wagon. 

The Wagon-bed; a board i inch thick may be used, 
but of course it will not have> the stiffness that the 
thicker piece would have. Also get a strong bqx, 



PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS 377 

knock out one end, nail a cleat to the ends of the 
side and bottom boards to hold them together, and 
fasten the box to one end of the wagon-bed as shown 
in Figs. 474 and 475. 

The Rear Wheels should be 16 or 18 inches in diameter 
and should set under the center of the box (Fig. 475). 
Nail two blocks of the same thickness as the wagon-bed 
to the bottom of the box, and fasten the axle across them 



.NUT 
,/vWA5H£R 




-Batten 



Fig. 475. — Bottom View of Wagon-bed. 

Figs. 476 and 477. — The Way to attach the Rear Axle. 

Figs. 478 and 479. — The Way to attach the Front Axle. 

as shown, running a stove-bolt or screw through the 
holes (Figs. 477 and 478), and using either staples or 
nails bent over as additional fastenings (Figs. 476 to 
478). Drive a metal pin through the outer hole in the 
axles to keep the hubs of the wheels from rubbing 
against the wood (Figs. 477 and 478). 

The Axle for the Front Wheels is fastened to a wooden 



378 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



axle (Fig. 478), which in turn is pivoted to the wagon- 
bed by means of a king-bolt as shown in Figs. 478 and 
479. Bore a hole through the wagon-bed for the bolt, 
and put washers where shown before screwing the nut 
in place. 



ic^H h^M^hX:^ • 




I ' 1 I I 



CHAPTER XXV 

BIRD-HOUSES 



.\\V.-ilh-\\\r/U \\\ 




Birds seem to show a practical rather than an artistic 
sense in choosing their homes, and, unlike us, do not care 
whether their houses are plain or highly ornamented. A 
common box properly arranged is just as much of an 
attraction as one on which a great deal of time has 
been spent in working out fancy roofs, porches, and 
doorways, provided it is placed where there will be 
ample protection from cats and other enemies of birds, 
and where there will be a plentiful supply of seeds and 
insects for food near by, and water for drink and 
bath. But carefully designed houses, of course, appear 
neater and more pleasing to us, so it is best to 
take pains in planning and constructing our garden 
bird homes. 

Tomato cans, apple and sugar barrels, fish kegs, nail 
kegs and white lead kegs, cheese boxes, butter firkins, 
wooden pails, and small boxes such as soap and starch 
come in can be procured by any boy, and from these ma- 
terials there are many kinds of houses that can be made. 
You will find a variety of new ideas for easily made houses 

379 



38o 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 




Fig. 480. Fig. 481. 

Details of a Box Lean-to Bird-house. 



in this chapter, and the materials mentioned are suffi- 
cient for the greater part of the construction of these. 

A Box Bird-house such as is shown in Fig. 480 can be 
made out of an empty starch box, or you may cut out the 
pieces and put together the box yourself. In case you 

make the box, the 
top edge of the end 
pieces can be cut 
slanted to allow for 
the slanted roof, 
but if you use a 
ready-made box, a triangular piece will have to be added 
to the edges {A, Fig. 481). If you make the box, cut the 
center partition, which divides the box into two bird com- 
partments, the same size as the end pieces; but for a box 
already made, cut this piece first and then use it for a pat- 
tern for laying out the triangular pieces to be added to the 
ends. The doorway in each end can be cut with a jack- 
knife ; this will be very easy to do if the ends are in two 
pieces, for one half of the hole can be cut out of the edge of 
each piece (Fig. 481). 

For wrens and other small birds the holes need not be 
more than 1 1 inches in diameter ; and 3 inches will admit 
any of the larger birds that may be attracted to your 
boxes. 

After the ends of the box have been pieced out, nail a 
strip to the back to make it of the same height, then cut 
the roof board large enough so it will project about i inch 



11 



BIRD-HOUSES 



381 



over the front and ends of the box, and nail it in place. 
Fit the perch sticks into holes bored in the ends of the 
box as shown in Fig. 480. 

This house may be mounted upon a clothes-post, but 
it will look better if bracketed to a wall on account of 
the style of its roof. A wooden bracket may be cut out 
and nailed to the wall, or a 
strip 6 or 8 inches longer 
than the box may be nailed to 
the back and the ends of this 
nailed to the wall (Fig. 480). 

Another Box Bird -house is 
shown in Fig. 482. This is 
similar to a house which the 
boys of some of the Chicago 
public schools have con- 
structed and placed in the 
trees of the parks, with the 
addition of the pan bath. 
The illustration shows clearly 
how the back, sides, and roof 
are cut and fitted together, and how the water pan is 
bracketed out from the low^er end of the back board, and 
I am going to let you work out the sizes for the various 
pieces according to what you think they ought to be. 

The lower portion of the back board may be screwed 
or nailed to a wall or post, or if you omit the pan and 
place the box in a tree, it can be tied securely by running 




Fig. 482. — Another Box Bird- 
house with a Pan for Drinking 
Water. 



382 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



a piece of clothes-line several times around it and the tree 
trunk. 

A cheese-box cover and one of the small kegs in which 
mackerel and herring come to the market furnishes the 
materials for making 

A Bird Tower such as is shown in Fig. 483. The keg 
must be thoroughly washed out with hot water and either 
washing soda or lye, and should be painted inside, to 
remove the fish odor. Bore four openings in the side of 
the keg, and fasten a perch stick in a 
small hole below each opening. 

The illustration shows the keg mounted 
upon the end of a rug-pole, but if you 
cannot get one of these, the top of a 
clothes-post, or a piece of 2-by-4 set into 
the ground, will serve the purpose. 
Nail the keg to the support, then set 
the cheese-box cover on top and nail 
it in place. 

The lower perches should run through 
the support as shown in the illustration, 
and may be of pieces of broken flagstaffs 
or cabinet-maker's dowel sticks. 
Figure 487 shows 

A Tin-can Bird Tower. This is made 
out of empty tomato cans. Cut a hole 
i^ inches in diameter in the side of three cans about 
i^ inches from the top; do not remove the piece of tin, 




Fig. 487. — a Tin- 
can Bird Tower. 



t 






'^^\ • 


6 

5 


1 


uMJ 


A House 




J s 



i 



BIRD-HOUSES 



383 



G6 



Q 




a 




but bend it out as shown in Fig. 488 to form a perch. 

Then remove the top of one can (A, Fig. 489) and the 

top and bottom of the other two 

cans (B and C, Fig. 489). As the 

ends are generally soldered on, it 

is only necessary to hold a can over 

a flame until the solder melts, and 

then knock them off (Fig. 488). 

The cans are joined together by 

means of two circular blocks of 

wood {£ and /^ Fig. 489), which 

also divide the tower into three 

compartments. 

A 6-inch tin funnel forms the 
roof (D, Fig. 489), and a cork with 
a piece of a hatpin stuck into it 
(G) fits into the spout of the funnel 
for a spire. 

Tack the edges of the cans to the 
wooden blocks, and wire the funnel 
roof to the upper can as shown in Fig. 487, fastening 
one end of each wire to the funnel rim and the other end 
to a small staple driven into the upper block. Twist 
the wires until the funnel is firm. Nail the bottom can 
to the top of whatever support you provide for the tower. 
Paint the tin to prevent it from rusting. 

The Bird Castle shown in Fig. 484 was designed and 
built by the author a few years ago for his garden. The 



Fig. 488. 



Fig. 489. 



Figs. 488 and 489. — De- 
tails of the Tin-can Bird 
Tower shown in Fig. 487. 



384 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



corner towers of this are built like the tower in Fig. 487. 
The castle measures 12 inches long, 7 inches wide, 16 
inches high at the highest point, and 1 1 inches high at 
the lowest point, and is made out of box boards. 

Figure 490 shows an end view of the castle with the 
tower of the opposite end in position. First cut the two 
end pieces H, and a third piece of the 
same shape and size for a center parti- 
tion, then nail the front and back boards 
/ and / to them. Cut the pieces in- 
dicated by the dotted lines K to fit 
between the center partition and the 
end pieces, for a loft floor. Cut an 
opening for each compartment in the 
end pieces (Fig. 490). 

Nail the roof boards L and M in 

Fig a o— End View P^^^^ ^^^ fasten strip N to the base 
of BirdCastle shown at the front (Fig. 490), then mount the 
inFig.484, with One ^^g^i^ ^ ^ platform ii inches wide 

Tower in Position. ^ ^ ^ 

and 24 inches long. Build up the 
towers at the two corners, and nail each can to the 
corner of the castle as you put it in place. 

The drawbridge ((9, Fig. 490) measures 2\ inches by 
3I inches ; hinge one end to the base strip, and suspend 
the other end by small brass chains fastened to the under 
side and to the front wall. 

Each can of the towers has a circular opening cut in it, 
but the long narrow windows in the towers and front wall 




BIRD-HOUSES 385 

of the castle and the large doorway are painted. The 
walls should be painted white, and the roof green or red. 

The little flag and the weather-vane are mounted upon 
nails stuck into corks, and the corks are pushed into the 
spouts of the funnels (Fig. 490). Set a cup in the plat- 
form, at each end. for drinking water. The castle may 
be bracketed upon a wall as shown in Fig. 484, or may 
be mounted upon a post. 

A Bird Ark. For the bird ark shown in Fig. 485, three 
cans are joined together in the same manner as those of 
the towers are joined (Figs. 488 and 489). Both ends of 
the center can are removed, but the bottom is left on the 
end cans. Cut a i|-inch hole in the side of the center 
can and a hole of the same diameter through the bottom 
of each end can ; do not remove the pieces of tin from 
the openings, but bend them out for perches as shown. 
Cut the roof boards of the proper size to project over the 
ends and sides of the cans, nail them together, and then 
fasten them in place by driving nails through the boards 
into the connecting blocks between the cans. 

Fasten the ark between blocks upon a board platform, 
then mount the platform upon a post support, and brace 
the supports with brackets to make it secure. Run 
several perch sticks through the brackets, as shown. 

A Wall Bracket Bird Ark (Fig. 491). This is con- 
structed in the same way as the ark described above, and 
the shape of the brackets and arrangement of perch 
sticks is clearly shown in the illustration. 



3^^ 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



A House and Swing made out of a wooden pail inverted 
and bracketed to a wall as shown in Fig. 486, so that its 




Fig. 491. — A Wall Bracket Bird Ark. 

handle hangs down and forms a swing, is an attractive 
little house for the back yard. 

Make the vertical partition to divide the pail into two 
compartments, and cut a circular piece of board to fit in 
the top. Nail the roof board to the bottom of the pail, 
cut an opening into each compartment, and fit a small 
block of wood beneath each opening for a platform. 

Nail a short block of wood to the wall where the house 
is to go, for the pail to rest on, and nail a longer strip at 
the proper height above it to nail the roof board to. 

The Hanging House shown in Fig. 492 may be made 
from a 25-pound or a i2j-pound white lead keg, which 
can be procured from any painter. Cut the square roof 
board wide enough to project 3 or 4 inches over the sides 
of the keg, and bore two holes in the proper positions for 



BIRD-HOUSES 



387 




the wire handles to run through. Each opening should 
have a perch fastened below it. Suspend the house by 
means of two cords as 
shown in the illustration. 

Birds seek the protec- 
tion of trees, roof eaves, 
and covered ways during 
storms, and 

A Shelter on the plan 
shown in Fig. 493 will 
help to make your yard 
a popular resort at such 
times. You also will find 
that the birds will fly to 
these perches to dry and 
preen their feathers after 
taking their morning 
baths. 

Figure 494 shows one 
of the two uprights which 
support the perches and 
roof. These may be cut 
out of strips 3 or 4 inches 
wide. Miter the top ends 
' as shown, — that is, cut off 



Fig. 492. — A Hanging House. 




Figs. 493 and 494. — A Shelter. 



the two corners at an angle of 45 degrees; — bore the 
holes A and B i inch in diameter, A about 3 inches 
below the top and B 6 inches below that again, and then 



388 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

slip a piece of broom-handle through two of the holes to 
keep them in line, and nail the lower ends to opposite 
sides of a clothes-post, or to a post set into the ground 
especially for the purpose. 

The long perch sticks are pieces of broom-handle, and 
the small ones are cabinet-maker's dowel sticks, broken 
flagstaffs, or sticks whittled round, about f inch in 
diameter. The small perch sticks are run through holes 
bored through the pieces of broom-handle, after the 
latter have been slipped through the holes in the 
uprights. 

Cut the roof boards about i8 inches long, one 12 
inches in width, and the other as much less as is necessary 
to allow for the lapping of edges. Nail the face of the 
wide piece to the edge of the narrow one, and whittle a 
short wooden spire and stick it into a hole bored in the 
peak; then set the roof on the end of the uprights, shift 
it until its projection at the ends is the same, and drive a 
couple of nails through the roof boards into the uprights 
to hold it in position. 



^^^^^\(4h™i^^^ . " 




j_j_ 



1 I 



CHAPTER XXVI 

HOUSES FOR PETS 

\\V--llh-\\\^/// \V\- 




Although the city boy does not have as good an 
opportunity to keep pets as his country cousin has, he 
generally manages to own a dog, unless he lives in an 
apartment building, and often there is space in a wood- 
shed or a barn in which he can keep a few pets such 
as rabbits, white rats, fancy mice, and pigeons. 

The size of a dog-house depends upon the size of 
the dog, so get your dog and see what he looks like before 
you build his kennel ; but if you get a pup of a large 
breed, be sure to make the house plenty large enough 
to allow for his growth, otherwise you will soon have to 
remodel the house or trade the dog for one that will fit. 

A Dog-house may be constructed out of packing-boxes 
or may be built up of any boards you can find about 
the place. Figure 495 shows a well-planned house of 
medium size, with a feature which is too frequently 
omitted in building one — provision for ventilation. If 
the house is set directly upon the ground, the floor is 
usually damp, for there is little or no chance for it to 
dry out after a rain, but by raising it a few inches as 

389 



390 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



shown in the illustration by mounting it upon a base, 
and boring a number of holes through the base, the floor 




Fig. 495. — A Dog-house. 
(See working-drawings on page 89.) 

never comes in contact with the ground, and a constant 
circulation of air, which will pass in and out of the holes, 
will keep the ground underneath dry. 

Figure 92 on page 89 shows complete working- 
drawings for this dog-house, it having been taken for 
an example in explaining the proper method for laying 
•out a sheet of working details. Of course you may alter 
the dimensions on the drawings to suit your needs. 

First construct a frame for the base of the house, 
then cut the floor boards of the proper size and nail 
them to the top edge of the base. Next construct 
the four walls in sections, making the two sides alike 



HOUSES FOR PETS 391 

and the front and rear wall alike, and fastening the 
boards together with battens as shown on the work- 
ing-drawings. Mark out the arched opening on the 
front wall, and nail a batten across the boards each 
side of it, as shown, to hold together the ends of the 
boards which are to be cut. When the sections have 
been prepared, fasten their ends together and toe-nail 
their bottom edges to the floor of the base. 

The roof may be made of boards alone, or of boards 
covered with shingles, tin, or some form of composition 
roofing-paper. If you shingle the roof, lay the boards 
lengthwise of the house, as shown on the working-draw- 
ings ; then lay the shingles on in the same way that 
they are put on any roof, starting at the eaves and lay- 
ing each succeeding row with 4 or 5 inches of the 
shingles exposed to the w^eather. The shingles may 
be split up into narrow pieces, and the lap may be in- 
creased so as to leave 2 or 3 inches exposed, if you want 
to make them of smaller proportions. Nail a ridge- 
board along each side of the roof at the peak, to cover 
the ends of the shingles and make the roof tight at 
that point. 

The dog-house should be given two coats of paint and 
be repainted once a year to keep it in condition. 

The Rabbit-hutch shown in Figs. 496 and 497 may 
be constructed out of a box or built out of new boards, 
whichever is the more easily obtained. The box should 
be about 4 feet long, 14 inches wide, and 20 inches deep. 



392 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



If you make this box, first prepare the end pieces, then 
cut the side boards and nail them to the ends, and then 




Fig. 496. — Open. 




Fig. 497-— Closed. 

Figs. 496 and 497. — A Rabbit-hutch. 

cut the bottom boards and nail them to the edges of the 
end and side boards. As shown in the illustration, the 
box is turned upon its side so the top will form the front 
of the hutch. 



m 



HOUSES FOR PETS 393 

The front is covered with wire netting tacked to 
a frame, and the frame is hinged in place so that it 
will also form a door. Make the frame equal to the 
length of the box and in width about 2 inches less 
than the width of the box ; use strips about 2 inches 
wide and i inch thick. The ends of the strips may 
be notched and fitted together as shown, or they may 
be mitered, like the corners of picture-frames. 

Galvanized Poultry-netting is the material probably 
easiest for miost boys to procure for covering the open 
front of the hutch. This is made in widths ranging from 
12 inches to 72 inches, and can be had in i-inch, ij- 
inch, and 2-inch mesh (the meshes are the openings 
formed by the crossed wires). The large mesh is 
plenty small enough for large rabbits, but the i-inch 
size is best for breeding hutches, as the little fellows 
can crawl through larger openings. Poultry-netting has 
an hexagonal-shaped mesh. 

Twist Wire Cloth is another form of covering which is 
very good for the purpose. Its meshes are somewhat 
similar to those of poultry netting, but are i inch long 
and ^ inch wide. 

Wire Cloth has a square mesh like the wire used for 
door and window screens. The heavier grades are 
suitable for rabbit-hutches and are often used. 

Buy small ^letting staples with which to put on the 
wire netting or cloth. 

After covering the frame with the netting or cloth, 



394 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

hinge it to the top edge of the hutch with three 2-by- 
2-inch steel butts. Then cut a strip of just the length 
of the box and 2 inches wide, and hinge it to the bottom 
directly below the frame with a pair of 2-by-2-inch butts. 
Screw a hook into each end of the strip, and fasten a 
screw-eye or nail into each end of the box in the proper 
place for the hook to catch on to. Cut a couple of 
wooden buttons, bore a hole through the center of each 
large enough for a screw to slip through, and screw them 
to the bottom hinge-strip about 12 inches from the ends 
for button catches to hold the wire frame closed (Fig. 
497). The hinge-strip is provided to keep the sawdust, 
or other floor covering, from dropping out of the hutch 
every time the front is opened, and it is hinged in place 
so it may be dropped as shown in Fig. 496 when clean- 
ing out the hutch, to make easier the work of removing 
the old sawdust. To hold open the front while cleaning, 
nail a strip of wood to one end of the hutch, and fasten 
a hook in the edge of the frame and a screw-eye in the 
proper position in the stick for it to hook into, as shown 
in Fig. 496. 

The hutch should set up on something high enough to 
keep it at least 18 inches above the ground or floor, as 
rabbits are very sensitive to dampness. Brackets may be 
fastened to a wall at the proper height, or the hutch may 
be placed upon an overturned packing-box. 

If you intend to raise rabbits, you should have 

A Breeding Hutch, in addition to this hutch which will 



HOUSES FOR PETS 



395 



then be used to keep the male rabbit in after the baby 
rabbits have arrived. The breeding hutch may be con- 
structed out of a box of the same size as that used for the 
hutch just described, but one end must be partitioned 
off for a nest, and a doorway 5 inches wide and 6 inches 
high must be cut through the partition to connect it with 
the main runway of the hutch. The nest must be kept 
dark, so, instead of running the wire front along the full 
length, it must be stopped off upon a line with the par- 
tition. In place of the wire, hinge a board over this por- 
tion. This provides a doorway by which the nest can 
be reached from the outside. 

The Two-story Rabbit-hutch shown in Fig. 498 is made 




Fig. 498. — A Two-story Rabbit-hutch with Yard Beneath. 



396 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



portable so it may be taken to a place of shelter during 
severe weather, and is provided with a handle at either 
end for convenience in carrying. Then by stretching 
wire netting or wire cloth around the supports, which 
should be 1 8 inches or more high, a good playground is 
provided in which your " bunnies " can be allowed to run 
about for a while each day. This yard is also a conven- 
ient place to put them in while you clean out the hutch. 
If you can find a packing-box i8 inches deep, 1 8 or 20 
inches wide, and 4 feet long, use that for the hutch. 
Remove the boards from one side of the box (which will 
be the front of the hutch), then , rip up two of the boards 
removed,^ into pieces 3 or 4 inches wide, and nail these 
to the front, one at the top of the box (A, Fig. 499) and 




Fig. 499. — The Two-story Rabbit-hutch before the Roof has been put On. 

the other at the bottom B. Upon the inside of the 
back boards, mark out a 14-inch square feed and clean- 
out door 6 inches from one end, and a 6-by-io-inch door- 
way to the compartments 3 inches from the other end. 
Before cutting out these openings, nail a vertical batten 



HOUSES FOR PETS 397 

across the boards each side of the Hnes to hold the cut 
ends together. 

Cut enough boards of the proper length to make the 
second-story floor, batten them together upon the under 
side, and cut a 5-by-io-inch stairway opening about 18 
inches from one end, and in the center of the width of 
the floor ; fasten this to the ends and back of the box 
midway between the top and bottom (C, Fig. 499). Then 
prepare two partitions with an arched doorway about 5 
inches wide and 6 inches high cut in each, and fasten 
one in each story 12 inches away from the compart- 
ment end of the hutch (Fig. 499). Cut three trian- 
gular pieces and nail one to the top of each end piece 
of the hutch for gable-ends, and one to the top of 
partition D{^E, Fig. 499). 

Cut a piece of board 5 inches wide and about 18 inches 
long for stairs, and tack a number of small cross-pieces to 
it to keep the rabbits from slipping while running up 
and down. Hinge the stairs to the second floor with a 
small hinge, or a piece of leather, and leave the lower end 
loose so it may be raised up out of the w^ay every time 
you clean out the first story. 

Board up the front of the compartments (Fig, 498), 
and nail a vertical strip of the same width as the top rail 
A and the bottom rail B (Fig. 499) to the opposite end 
of the hutch. Cover the remainder of the front with wire 
netting or cloth, and tack wooden strips over the edges 
of the wire to conceal the rough ends (Fig. 498). 



398 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

Make the door to the compartments out of a single 
board, and the feed door out of several pieces battened 
together. Hinge the doors in place, and provide them 
with hasps and padlocks, if there is any danger of curious 
ones opening the hutch while you are away. Leather 
strips may be substituted for iron hinges, and wooden 
buttons or hooks may be used in place of hasps, if the 
hutch does not require a padlock. 

For breeding purposes the stairway may be omitted; 
then the doe and her young can be kept by themselves 
in one story; but it is better to build separate one-story 
breeding hutches. 

The Rabbit Yard. As you must know, if you have had 
any experience with raising them, rabbits are great bur- 
rowers and will dig under the walls of any inclosure you 
can build for them, unless you provide a floor or carry 
the walls down below their reach. The best method for 
keeping them within a small yard is to extend the wire 
netting with which you cover the framework about i8 
inches below the surface of the ground. After laying out 
the lines of the framework of the yard, dig a trench on all 
four sides to the required depth, then set up the four 
corner posts, which should be long enough to stand at 
least 1 8 inches above the ground, and nail on the top 
pieces, the baseboards, and the side braces. Then stretch 
the wire around the framework and tack it in place; at 
the gate end cut the wire off at grade and fasten it to the 
baseboard. Construct the gate as shown, cover it on the 



J 



HOUSES FOR PETS 



399 



outside with netting, hinge it to one of the corner posts, 
and provide it with a hook. 

If the ground where you build the yard is bare, dig up 
some sod and plant it inside of the inclosure, so your 
rabbits will have grass to play in. 

The raising of white rats and fancy mice is a 
profitable business for boys, and it requires very little 
time and an expenditure of only a dollar for a pair 
to start with. 

A Cage for White Rats or fancy mice should be con- 
structed out of a box about 14 inches deep, 14 inches 




Fig. 500. — Cage for White Rats. 

wide, and 3 feet long. A good form of cage is shown 
in Fig. 500. Remove one side of the box you have pro- 
cured (this side of the box will be the front of the cage) 
(Fig. 501), then cut two strips 3 inches wide by the length 
of the box inside, and fasten them midway between the 



400 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



i^ 



^ Hinged Top- 



^ 



^ \TI^///////////A\\\\\\\\V^ 



Fig. 502- 




FiG. 501. 

Fig. 501. — View of Inside of White Rat Cage showing Arrangement of 

Nest Boxes and Stairs. 
Fig. 502. — Section through the Hinged Top. 

top and bottom of the box, one along the back and the 
other along the front. 

Make a Couple of Nest Boxes as shown in Fig. 503, as 
long as the cage is wide, 5 inches wide (inside), and 4 
inches deep (inside) ; divide them into two compart- 
ments each as shown, and cut a doorway i-J inches 

in diameter into each 
compartment. Cut a 
board to fit the top of 
each box for a cover, 
and bend a piece of 
Fig. 504. ^— -^^-zir:^^^ 503. wire into the shape of 

Fig. 503. -Nest Box for White Rat Cage. ^ j^^^j^ /pj x ^^^ 

Fig. 504. — Corner of Front Screen showing , \ ^ "^ ^' 

Frame and Attachment of Wire. fasten it in the proper 




HOUSES FOR PETS 401 

position to hook on to a short nail or screw driven into 
the edge of the cover (Fig. 501). Fasten the nest boxes 
on top of strips A and B, and tack a strip to each end of 
the cage just above the nest box cover to hold down the 
back edge (Fig. 501). When the cover is unhooked, it 
can be slipped from under this strip and removed. 

Make the stairs out of a piece of board 3 inches wide, 
tack cross-pieces to it about i^ inches apart, and fasten it 
to strip A and to the floor, in the center of the cage. 

Strips A and B, together with the platforms in front of 
the nest boxes, furnish 

An Elevated " Race-track " which your rats or mice will 
make good use of, especially the frisky young ones who 
love to chase one another about as well as any children do. 

Ordinary screen wire cloth is the most satisfactory 
covering for the front of the cage, and the best method 
of putting this on is by making a wooden frame out of 
strips 3 inches wide, with the corners mitered and nailed 
together (Fig. 504), and tacking the wire to the inside 
face of this. The frame can be nailed or screwed to the 
cage (Fig. 500). This is a better method than that of 
tacking the wire over the edges of the box, as the wire 
can be stretched tighter and looks neater, and, what is 
more important, it prevents the wire from bulging out 
between the tacks and providing the rats with a chance 
to gnaw away the edge of the box at those points until 
the space is big enough to escape through. 

The top of the cage should project about \ inch over 



402 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



I 



the ends and 2 inches over the front. First nail a hinge- 
strip across the top at the back, then batten together the 
remaining boards, and hinge them to this strip (Fig. 502). 
By driving a staple into the under side of the cover and 
another into the screen frame, so the two will come to- 
gether side by side when the top is closed (Fig. 502), 
the cage may be padlocked. 

Paint your Hutches and Cages on the outside, and 
whitewash them on the inside. 

Floor Covering. Cover the floors with a thick layer of 
sawdust, which you can get from your grocer; and clean 
out the hutches and cages twice a week, and replace the 
old sawdust with fresh, so as to keep conditions sanitary. 

Place hay in the breeding 
compartments for the nests. 
Drinking Receptacles, 
Get a small earthenware 
dish for drinking water. 
This will stand solidly 
upon the floor and not be 
so likely to overturn as a 
cup, bowl, or other recep- 
tacle with a small base. 
Use a very shallow dish 
for the rat-cage. 
Fig. 505. — A Pigeon-cote. j^ Pigeon-cote like the 

one shown in Fig. 505 may be made out of a packing- 
box. Divide it into two stories, by fastening a floor 




HOUSES FOR PETS 403 

midway between the bottom and top, and divide each 
story into two compartments. Nail the cover boards to 
the box, fasten a triangular piece to the top edge of each 
end to form the gables, and then cut and nail the roof 
boards in place. The space between the box cover and 
the roof may be divided into two compartments by 
fastening a triangular piece similar to the gable-ends 
to the cover boards, before nailing on the roof. 

Cut openings through the gable-ends and the sides 
of the box, into the compartments, and fasten perches 
below them. 

The pigeon-cote may be bracketed to a wall or sup- 
ported upon a post. 



^^jv=iH^M^HX:\ 




LTi !•!- 



CHAPTER XXVII 



A CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND 
HOME-MADE ARMOR 



\V--ilh-\\\^/// \\\ 




The castle club-house shown in Fig. 506 is an idea 
which the author has been holding in reserve for you 
for a good many years, for he originated it and carried it 
out on similar lines in his city back yard when a lad. 
The work is not difficult, and the plan may be simplified 
or enlarged upon according to how much time you care 
to spend upon it. A boy's interest in a thing often 
ceases the moment it is perfected to the point where 
further improvement is impossible, therefore any piece 
of work which will suggest alterations and additions 
from time to time is more acceptable than one which 
does not. It can be said for the castle club-house that 
there are many schemes besides those described in this 
chapter which may be developed by the builders, and 
which will probably suggest themselves. 

Material. As the castle may be built in the corner of 
the back yard, the material for two walls may be saved, 
and the lumber required for the rest of the building will 
cost very little, as you will see by looking at the illustra- 
tions. The framework, w^ith the exception of the corner 

404 



iJtM^. 



.i.:-i- I 



3111 jli "t 




Fig. 506. The Castle Club House. 



CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND HOME-MADE ARMOR 405 

post, is built of boards, the corner turrets of barrels, and 
the sides of box boards and scraps of all sorts of lengths 
and widths. Second-hand lumber can generally be 
bought very cheap wherever a frame building is being 
torn down or remodeled, and this will answer the pur- 
pose as well as new material. 

Before starting work it is best to do a little figuring 
on just what you will need, and then sort out all of the 
boards you have succeeded in getting and see if you will 
have enough ; if you find that you will not, and there is 
no possibility of procuring more, it will then be an easy 
matter to cut down the dimensions of the castle so that 
you will be able to complete the job. 

The Framework. Mark out the dimensions upon the 
ground and lay a board along the end and side for plates 
upon which to rest the wall framework (A and B, Fig. 
507). Then take a 6-foot piece of 4-by-4-inch stuff, or 
two pieces of 2-by-4-inch stuff spiked together, and 
stand it upon the plates at the corner for a corner post 
C, and brace it temporarily. Cut uprights D and £ to 
fit between the fence rails, if the rails happen to be upon 
the inside face of the fence, and nail them to the fence 
directly in line with the corner post. Next, cut the 
horizontal boards /% G, H, and /, and nail them to the 
corner post C and the fence uprights D and E, placing 
F and G about 8 inches above the ground-plates, and H 
and /even with the tops of C, D, and E. Boards^ and 
K will be necessary only in case boards H and / extend 



CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND HOME-MADE ARMOR 407 

above the top of the fence, as in Fig. 507. Cut uprights 
L, M, N, (9, P, and Q 7 feet 6 inches long, and nail 
them to plates A and B, and to horizontal pieces F, G, 
H, and /, 1 1 inches in from the corners formed by boards 
H, /, /, and K, Cut uprights R and vS' 7 feet long, and 
fasten them in the center of the front wall 2 feet apart 
for the entrance jambs, and set upright T in the center 
of the end wall for an intermediate support. 

The Floor Joists, marked U in Fig. 507, are 4-inch 
boards placed on edge, and are fitted between the fence 
and horizontal piece G, If there isn't a rail on the in- 
side face of the fence at the proper height to rest the 
ends of the joists on, nail a horizontal piece to the fence 
for the purpose. 

Before putting on the wall siding, get three barrels for 

The Corner Turrets. Be sure that no hoops are missing 
from these, and nail each stave to each hoop to keep the 
barrels from falling apart. Cut a number of pieces of 
tin about 3 by 5 inches in size, and tack them to the in- 
side edge of the tops of the barrels, about 3 inches apart 
(Fig. 509), to form the battlements ; then set the barrels 
on boards H, /, /, and K, between uprights Z, M, N, O, 
Py and Q, and nail them to these uprights (Fig. 507). 

Board up the Walls regardless of the openings, with 
the exception of the entrance, around which the boards 
may be fitted, and cut the openings afterwards. Cut the 
boards so that each end will strike the center of an up- 
right, and use up the short pieces wherever it is possible 



4o8 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



to do so, in order to save the long pieces for places re- 
quiring them. When you are ready 

To cut the Openings, mark them out upon the walls and, 
about ^ inch outside of the lines, nail a vertical strip 
across the boards which are to be cut to hold them to- 
gether (Fig. 511). The upper row of openings on the 
main walls, and those in the turrets, are painted on the 
wood. 

The Roof. To support the upper end of the roof board- 
ing, it will be necessary to nail the horizontal piece Fto 




Fig. 508. 
Fig. 508. — How the Roof should be put On. 
Fig. 509. — Construction of the Turret Battlements. 

uprights My R, S, and N, even with the tops of R and ^S"; 
at the sides you will have to fasten the diagonal pieces 
W diud X\ and around the barrels extra blocking will be 
required. Figure 508 shows how the roof boarding 
should be laid. First place one layer of boards about i 



CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND HOME-MADE ARMOR 409 

inch apart, as shown, then cover the spaces between with 
another layer. The best way to make water-tight join- 
ings around the barrels and walls is to get some tar paper 
and tack a strip of it to the roof along the walls, lap it up on 
to the walls and barrels, and daub it with tar. But if you 
cannot get the roofing-paper and tar, stuff all the cracks 
with newspaper, using a pointed stick with which to push 
the paper in, and then tack pieces of tin over them and 
lap them up on to the walls and barrels. 

If the Roof leaks a little after you have finished it, do 
not worry; the castle will dry out quickly after a storm, 
inasmuch as the floor is high off the ground with plenty 
of space beneath for the air to circulate. 

The Battlement. This is made by nailing pieces of 
board 6 inches square to the walls, above the roof, as 
shown in Fig. 508. The turret battlements have been 
described. 

The space beneath the floor is plenty large for 

Secret Treasure Vaults, without which, of course, the 
castle would not be complete. Boxes fastened between 
the floor joists, as shown in Fig. 507, will make good 
vaults in which to store the castle's " gold," and the floor 
boards over these should be battened together in sections 
so they may be removed to gain access to the vaults. 

The Drawbridge should be i inch larger all around than 
the entrance, and its boards should run horizontally and 
be fastened together with battens (Fig. 511). Cut a piece 
of broom-handle 8 inches longer than the width of the 



4IO 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 




m 



i. 



entrance {A, Fig. 510), and 
nail it to the lower edge of 
the drawbridge, then make 
a socket for each end of the 
broom-handle to set in, by 
nailing two blocks {B and 
C, Fig. 510) to the wall 
Fig. 5 10.— Sockets for the Drawbridge, each side of the entrance, 

and nailing another block {D) over these to hold the 
broom-handle in place. 

To counterbalance the Drawbridge, get two clothes-line 
pulleys, four 
sc rew-eyes, 
and about 18 
feet of clothes- 
line. Bore a 
hole through 
each batten of 
the drawbridge 
near the end 
{A, Fig. 511), 
cut two slots in 
the castle wall 
above the en- 
trance {B, Fig. 
511), screw the 

pulleys into ^ 

^ -^ Fig. 511. 

the lower edge fig. 512. 




Fig. 511. 

How the Drawbridge is Counterbalanced. 
Details of Counterbalance. 



CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND HOME-MADE ARMOR 411 



of the horizontal board Fat C, and two screw-eyes into 
the ceiling at E. 

For the counterbalance take two flour sacks, potato 
sacks, or two pieces of carpet sewed together in the form 
of bags; fill them full of sand or gravel, and tack the top of 
each around a block of wood, in one end of which a screw- 
eye has been screwed (Z?, Fig. 512). Cut the clothes-line 
in halves ; tie a knot on one 
end of the pieces; pull them 
through holes A as far as 
the knotted ends will per- 
mit; run them around the 
ends of the drawbridge, 
up through slots B, over 
pulleys C through the 
screw-eyes D on the counter- 
balances, and through screw- 
eyes E (Fig. 511). Then 
pull up the drawbridge as 



far as it will go, lower the 
counterbalances on the 
ropes until they come within 
about 6 inches of the floor, 
and tie the ropes to screw- 
eyes E\ cut off the ends of 
the rope. 

A Windlass may be sub- 
stituted for the counter- Fig. 5 14. — Shaft for stovepipe Drum. 




Fig. 513. 
Fig. 513. — Windlass for raising the 

Drawbridge. 
(You may make and use one of these instead 

of the counterbalances shown in Fig. 511.) 



412 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

balances, if you wish to make one. Figure 5 1 3 shows a 
simple scheme, requiring a section of stovepipe, a broom- 
handle, a grocery box, and a few boards. Make a shaft 
for the stovepipe out of the broom-handle; cut two disks 
equal to the inside diameter of the stovepipe, bore a hole 
through the center of each large enough for the broom- 
handle to slip through, and fasten these disks to the 
shaft (Fig. 514). Slip the shaft through the section 
of stovepipe, and tack the metal to the wooden disks. 
Mount the completed drum on two board uprights, and 
nail the lower ends of the uprights to the ends of the 
box. Construct a crank for each end of the shaft, fasten 
them in place as shown, and provide a loose pin to run 
through a hole bored through each crank and each up- 
right, as a means for locking the windlass ; several holes 
bored through each upright will make it possible to lock 
the windlass at any point desired. Tie the ends of the 
ropes leading in from the drawbridge to the drum of the 
windlass, and fasten them to the metal so they will not 
slip. 

As noted in the illustration, the back of the box base 
should be nailed to the rear wall of the castle ; also con- 
nect the upper portions of the uprights to the walls with 
cross-pieces, to brace them. 

A Moat. Dig a trench around the outside of the base 
for a moat, and your castle will be completed. 

Home-made Armor. Of course you will want some 
armor with which to dress up like a real knight, so I 




Fig. 515. A Boy Knight with His Home-Made Armor. 



CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND HOME-MADE ARMOR 413 



have invented for you a home-made helmet, a shield, and 
a sword, which, with the addition of a pair of gauntlets 
and a sweater (this resembles, somewhat, the texture of 
coats of chain mail), will make a fairly complete outfit 
Figure 515 shows a boy knight equipped with this home- 
made armor. 

The Helmet. Get an old worn-out derby hat (Fig. 516) ; 
remove the brim, sweat-band, and ribbon, make slashes i 





Fig. 524 




V^^^ 



Fig. 520. Fig. 521. Fig. 523. 

Figs. 516 to 524. — Details for making the Helmet. 

inch in length in the edge of the felt from the center of 
each side around to the front, and bend up the pieces be- 
tween the slashes (Fig. 517); cut two vizors out of card- 



414 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

board (Fig. 518), and glue one of these to the tops of the 
turned-up felt flaps and one to the under sides (Figs. 517 
and 519). For the cape or neck portion of the helmet, 
cut a piece of cardboard to the shape shown in the dia- 
gram, and slash the lower edge (Fig. 520); bend this 
piece of cardboard as in Fig. 521, and bend out the pieces 
between the slashes, then coat" about 2 inches of the 
top of the cardboard with glue, place it inside of the 
hat and press it against the felt until the glue has set 
(Fig. 523). Prepare the two crown ridge-pieces (Fig. 
522) out of cardboard, glue the pieces together back to 
back, and glue the flaps to the crown of the hat (Fig. 523). 

Cover the helmet with tin-foil ; this can be obtained 
from a florist, or from the wrappings of chocolate, etc. 
Glue the tin-foil to the felt and cardboard, and do not 
try to smooth out the wrinkles too particularly, for these 
will give the effect of rich carvings such as you will see 
on ancient helmets. Figure 524 shows our helmet. 

The Shield. Make a bow out of a narrow stick, bend- 
ing it so there will be a distance of 2 inches between 
the center of the stick and the bowstring (Fig. 525), 
then cut the shield out of a piece of heavy cardboard 
to the dimensions given in Fig. 526 and tack it to the 
bow. Cut two blocks of wood 4 inches long, and fasten 
a piece of twisted wire to the ends of each with screws 
(Fig. 527) for the arm and hand straps; wrap the wire 
with cord (Fig. 528), and tack the shield to these blocks. 
Remove the bowstring and cut off the ends of the bow 



CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND HOME-MADE ARMOR 415 

even with the cardboard; then cover the shield with 
tin-foil or silver paper. 

The Sword. Cut this about 3 feet long, with a blade 
i^ inches wide, as shown in Fig. 529. First bore a J- 
inch hole through the stick, 6 inches from one end, then 
whittle the handle round and bevel off the sides of the 
blade until the edges are sharp. Drive a piece of iron 
rod of the size marked through the hole in the handle, 
for the hilt of the sword; then cover the hilt, handle, and 
the entire blade with tin-foil or silver paper. 




Fig. 528. 

Fig. 526. Fig. 529. 

Figs. 525 to 528. — Details of Shield. Fig. 529.— Sword. 



!^;#4biM^H^^^:\ 




J__L 



I I 
J — • - 



CHAPTER XXVIII 



A BOYS' BAND OF HOME- 
MADE INSTRUMENTS 



\V--ilh^\V-/lf \\\ 




The neighborhood parade would be headed by a boys' 
band, no doubt, were it not for the lack of instruments. 
This need suggested to the author the idea of devising 
the home-made cornet, trombone, bass horn, fife, and bass 
drum shown in the illustrations upon the following pages. 
They are imitation instruments, to be sure, but they will 
make plenty of noise, and music, too, if they are properly 
handled. The notes are produced on the horns by the 
variation of the voice, and not by the manipulation of 
keys, so it will be easy for any boy who can carry tunes 
by ear to play them without having to do very much prac- 
ticing. If you are not familiar with the tones of the in- 
struments, you can soon become so by listening to the 
playing of a real band. 

The entire band equipment can be completed in a 
couple of days, if each boy makes his own instrument, and 
the material should cost but very little, as much of it can be 
found about the house ; most likely something that you will 
need can be supplied by one of the other boys, in exchange 
for which you can give him something that he wants. 

416 




Fig. 531. The Trombone. 




Fig. 532. The Bass Horn. Fig. 530. The Cornet. 
Figs. 530-532. Home-Made Instruments for a Boys' Band. 



1 



I 



A BOYS' BAND OF HOME-MADE INSTRUMENTS 417 



The Cornet (Fig. 530). Procure a quart-size tin funnel 
for the bell of the cornet and several feet of round stick 
|- inch in diameter for tubing; for this some old flagstaffs 
can be used, or cabinet-maker's J-inch dowel sticks can be 
purchased for a few cents a stick. The curved tubing 
can be formed of rubber tubing as is shown in the illus- 
tration (Fig. 533), or by bending a piece of tree branch 




Fig. 533. — Details of Cornet. 



to the proper shape (Fig. 538). The lengths of the 
straight tubing are marked on the diagram, and the pieces 
are lettered in the order in which they should be assem- 
bled. If rubber tubing is used for the ends, run several 
pieces of heavy wire through it to give it proper stiffness 
(see dotted lines C and //, Fig. 533). Bore holes in the 
ends of the wooden tubing where indicated, and whittle 
pegs to fit them and the rubber tubing. Fasten the pegs 
in place with glue, and fasten the other pieces with brads. 
Drive rug tacks (Fig. 533) into the ends of the key tubes 
for keys. A " kazoo " is necessary for a mouthpiece. 
This little instrument, shown in the illustration, will cost 
a dime, and can be purchased from any music dealer ; if 
he does not carry it in stock, he can procure it for you in 



4i8 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



a few days' time. Fasten the kazoo in place by means 
of a wooden peg ; then — as you have stopped up its end 
— it will be necessary to puncture three holes in the top 
as shown. 

When the tubing, keys, bell, and mouthpiece have 
been put together, procure some tin-foil from empty 
cigar boxes, buy some from a florist, or get several 5-cent 
sheets of silver paper at a stationery store. Cut the tin- 
foil, or silver paper into short pieces, and paste these 
around the tubing; after sticking it in place, rub each 
piece with a clean rag to remove all wrinkles. Do the 
work carefully, as the appearance of the cornet will de- 
pend largely upon the neatness with which you cover it. 



I 




Fig. 534. — Details of the Trombone. 

The Trombone (Fig. 531) requires a two-quart tin 
funnel for its bell and a kazoo for a mouthpiece. 
Figure 534 shows the details for the main portion of the 
trombone. The large tubing is made of a broom-handle, 
the smaller tubing of |-inch sticks, and the curved ends 
as described for the Cornet, 



A BOYS' BAND OF HOME-MADE INSTRUMENTS 419 

The pieces are lettered in the order in which they 
should be put together, and their lengths are nriarked. 
Bore all the holes shown or indicated by dotted lines, of 
the proper size for the smaller tubing to fit into. Cut B 
and b in one piece, and do not separate them until after 
you have bored a hole in the end 2 inches deep, which 
will run entirely through b and \ inch into the end of B. 
The idea is to hinge G between b and B. The screw- 
eye in the end of G should be \ inch in diameter, inside. 
Cover the end of tube H with glue, run it through b, 
through the screw-eye in G, and into the hole in B. 
Wrap the end of the kazoo with paper, and glue it in the 
hole bored in the end of /. Make a gimlet hole in / as 
shown, to let out the tone from the kazoo. 

Figure 535 shows the completed trombone slide, and 
Fig. 536 the first step in making it. Cut a number 




Fig. 539. Fig. 535. 

Figs. 535 to 539. — Details of Trombone Slide. 

of strips of newspaper about 3 inches wide and a \- 
inch stick about 30 inches long; wrap the stick with a 
dry strip of paper, then on top of this wrap strips soaked 
in paste, and gradually build up the tubing until it is as 



420 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



thick as the broom-handle tubing (Fig. 537). Let the 
tubing dry thoroughly, then pull out the stick and prepare 
another tube similarly. The curved end O (Fig, 535) 
may be made out of a tree branch (Fig. 538) or out of 
rubber tubing (Fig. 533). Fasten P between M and 
A^with brads (Fig. 535). Screw a screw-eye i inch in 
diameter (inside) into each end of Q (Fig. 539), and slip 
them over the paper tubing (Fig. 535). Whenall the pieces 

have been put together properly, 
cover the tubing with silver paper. 

The Bass Horn (Fig. 532) is made 
out of a brass phonograph horn 
and a piece of an old garden-hose. 
If you haven't an old phonograph 
from which you can take the horn, 
you can probably pick up a horn at 
a second-hand store for half a dollar. 
The length of this horn will deter- 
mine the length of the hose tubing, 
also that of A and B, but you can 
follow Fig. 540 in working out the 
proportions of the instrument. The 
horn shown in the illustration is 
28 inches long, and the garden-hose is 7 feet 6 inches long. 
The detail shows how the hose should be fastened at C, D, 
E, F, G, //", and /, and that rug tacks are driven into the 
ends of tubes/, K, and L. The full tone of the horn can be 
produced by the voice, as the hose tubing is unobstructed. 




Fig. 540. — Detail of Bass 
Horn. 



A BOYS' BAND OF HOME-MADE INSTRUMENTS 421 



As you probably know, whistling upon the edge of a 
card makes a pretty fair imitation of 

A Fife ; we will use this same principle in making our 
fife shown in Fig. 541. Cut a triangular piece of tin, 
bend up one corner, and 



tack it through this corner 
to a stick 13 inches long, 
2 inches from one end. 
of tin blunt and smooth. 



Fig. 543.^ The 
Drum Stick. 



Fig. 541. — The Fife. 

File the edge of the piece 
Bore six " finger holes " in 
the stick as shown, and cover it with 
tin-foil or silver paper. 
Figure 542 shows 

The Bass Drum, and Fig. 544 the 
detail of its framework. Procure eight 
barrel hoops for the framework ; also 
a small drum. Soak four of the hoops 
in water, then bend them out and 
fasten them together so as to make 
two hoops 30 or 34 inches in diameter. 
Place the drum in the exact center 
of one hoop, and fasten strips A, B, 
C, and D around it (Fig. 544). Brace 
the other hoop with strip E, then con- 
nect the two hoops with 12-inch strips 
placed horizontally as shown. Fasten the small drum 
in place with cords (Fig. 544). Cover the entire frame- 
work with wrapping-paper, then cut away the portion 
covering the head of the small drum (Fig. 542). Nail 




Fig 



542. — The Bass 
Drum. 



422 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 



the four remaining barrel hoops around the bass drum 
for rims. 

Use small staples for the brace-cord hooks (Fig. 545) ; 
cut the braces out of canvas by the pattern of Fig. 546, 




Fig. 549- 




Fig. 547. 

Figs. 545 and 546. — Details of Braces 

for Bass Drum. 

Fig. 544. — Detail of Bass Drum. Figs. 547 to 549. — Details of Cymbals. 

and sew edge A to edge B. Get heavy wrapping cord 
for the brace cord, and lace it back and forth around the 
drum, as shown in Fig. 542. Screw a screw-eye into 
each rim from which to attach a rope or tape sling (Fig. 

542). 

For Cymbals procure two pot covers ; mount one on a 
spool upon the drum framework (Fig. 547), and fasten a 
knob (Fig. 548) to the top of the other for a handle (Fig. 
549). Pot-cover knobs such as that shown can be bought 
at any hardware store at 5 cents apiece. 

Saw off a 14-inch piece from the end of a broom- 
handle for 



A BOYS' BAND OF HOME-MADE INSTRUMENTS 423 

The Drum-stick; cut a hole in an old tennis-ball for 
it to run through, and drive a nail through the ball into, 
the end of the stick (Fig. 543). 

Snare Drums can be easily made by stretching canvas or 
heavy cloth over cheese boxes, but real drums will help 
to tone up the band and should be used if you can get 
them. 

The Drum Major (Fig. 550). Choose for your drum- 
major the boy who can twirl a stick the best. 

If an old fur muff can be had, it will make 

A Splendid "Bearskin" Cap; sew a piece of elastic to 
one end of it to go around the chin (Fig. 551). In case 





Fig. 551. ^'^-557' Fig. 554. 



Fig. 550.— The 
Drum Major. 



Fig. 552. 




Fig. 553. Fig. 555. 
Figs. 551 to 557. — Details of Drum Major's Outfit. 

you cannot get a muff, make a cardboard cylinder 
10 inches in diameter and 12 inches high, and fasten a 



424 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

circular piece of cardboard to the top (Fig. 552); then 
cover it with cotton (Fig. 553). 

Cut a piece of broom-handle 3 feet long for 

The Drum Major's Staff, paint it black, and screw to 
the head a brass ball from a curtain-pole (Fig. 554); 
then wrap the joint between the ball and piece of broom- 
handle with cord until it is filled out, as shown in Fig. 555, 
and cover the cord with a band of tin-foil. Figure 556 
shows 

The Major's Whistle; with this he signals the band 
to play. Any toy whistle will do. 

Uniforms. The drum major may wear boots if he 
has a pair, but these are not necessary. He should 
have a red or blue sash tied across his breast, and red 
braid stripes pinned down his trousers legs and around 
his cuffs. Small safety-pins may be sewed to the stripes 
so they can be attached quickly. Figure 557 shows the 
way to make the epaulets. Cut a cardboard form similar 
to Ay pad it on top with cotton, and cover it with red 
cloth; then cut fringe out of yellow cloth B and sew 




A BOYS' BAND OF HOME-MADE INSTRUMENTS 425 

it to the edge C, Sew a small safety-pin to the under 
side of A. 

Figures 530, 531, and 532 will suggest the uniforms 
for the other band musicians — a soldier cap, a pair of 
epaulets made similar to the drum major's (see Fig. 557), 
and red braid stripes for the cuffs and trousers legs. 

Now, boys, get to work and organize your band, and 
after the instruments have been made and you have 
given a public performance, write and tell me how you 
succeeded. When your town has a parade on some 
special occasion, probably you can get permission to 
head the procession, and when you boys have a vaude- 
ville, a circus, or any kind of a show or entertainment, 
the band will fill the requirements of an orchestra. If 
you belong to the " Boy Scouts," organize a Boy Scout 
Band. 




INDEX 



Admission tickets, 269. 

Aerial, a wireless telegraph, 227; form and 
dimensions of, 227; construction of, 228; 
insulation of, 229; masts for, 230; 
grounding of, 230. 

Aero clubs, junior, 300. 

Aerogram blanks, 223. 

Aeroplanes, model, 297 ; length of flights, 
298, 324; junior aero clubs, 300; meets, 
300 ; glider race, 306 ; types of machines 
used, 302 ; support of models, 302 ; a 
cardboard bird gUder, 303 ; a simple 
monoplane model, 304; a French mono- 
plane model, 309; an Antoinette mono- 
plane model, 314; a more elaborate 
monoplane model, 316 ; center-poles, 305, 
309, 314, 320; propellers, 306, 310, 315, 
321; motors, 307 ; winding up the motor, 
308; planes, 306, 311, 315, 323; warping 
the planes, 313, 318 (Fig. 399) ; adjust- 
ing the planes, 306, 313, 324; bracing 
cords, 313, 324; binding material, 320; 
tails, 316, 325; fins, 316, 325; rudders, 
316, 324; running-gears, 311, 321; 
skids, 311; finish, 324; field for experi- 
ments, 326. 

Airship, a boy's auto-, 327; framework of 
balloon, 329; ribs, 330; rib-bands, 331; 
balloon envelope, 331 ; stays, 331 ; car, 
332 ; propeller, S33 ', starting platform, 
334 ; a push-ofl[ platform, 335 ; rope 
cable, 335 ; attachment of car, 335 ; 
windlass for pulling airship back to plat- 
form, 335 ; an auto-airship club, 336. 

Airships," clockwork "flying, 203. 

Amateur wireless telegraph stations, 223. 

Ammunition for snow battleship, 285. 

Ampere, 252. 

Animals for merry-go-round, cardboard, 193, 
197. 



Annual rings, 44. 

Antennae (same as Aerial). 

Antoinette monoplane model, 314. 

Ark, a bird, 385 ; a wall bracket bird, 385. 

Armor, home-made, 412; a helmet, 413; 

a shield, 414; a sword, 415. 
Arm rocker, 164. 
Attic, a boy's room in an (see Room in an 

Attic). 
Auger-bits, 21. 

Auto-airship, a boy's (see Airship). 
Auto delivery-wagon, a toy, 180. 
Automatic drill, 23. 
Automobile moving picture, an, 273. 
Auto wagon, 374; steering-gears for, 374, 

375; seats for, 376; trip gong for, 376. 
Awls, brad-, 22; scratch, 22. 
Axles, wagon, 368. 



B 

Back-saw, 18. 

Bag, a sleeping-, 342. 

Balloon for auto-airship, framework of, 329 ; 
envelope of, 331; stays, 331. 

Band of home-made instruments, a boys', 
416; a cornet, 417; a trombone, 418; 
a bass horn, 420; a fife, 421; a bass 
drum, 421; cymbals, 422; a drum-stick, 
423; snare drums, 423; the drum 
major's "bearskin" cap, 423; his staff, 
424 ; his whistle, 424 ; uniforms, 424. 

Barrel table, 166. 

Basket, a waste, 164. 

Bass drum, a home-made, 421. 

Bass horn, a home-made, 420. 

Battens, 69. 

Batteries, dry, 247 ; connections of, 247 and 
253- 

Battery, a storage, 246. 

Battle, rules for a snow naval, 285. 

Battlement, a castle club-house, 409. 



427 



428 



INDEX 



Battleship, a snow (see Snow Battleship). 

Beaded boards, 49. 

Bearings, model aeroplane shaft, 307, 309, 322. 

"Bearskin" cap, a drum major's, 423. 

Bench, a cabinet-made, 3 ; a home-made, 3 ; 
a chair saw-, 38 ; a solid work, 4 ; a work, 
with tool-drawers, 8; a bedroom or 
living-room, 117; a camp table, 350; 
a box, 350. 

Bench-hook, 40. 

Bench-screw, an iron, 7. 

Bench-stop, an adjustable, 12. 

Bench-stops, home-made, 11. 

Bench-vise, 6. 

Bevel, 26, 71. 

Biplane type of model aeroplane, faults of 
the, 302. 

Bird glider, a cardboard, 303. 

Bird-houses, 379; material for, 379; a box 
bird-house, 380 ; another box bird-house, 
381 ; a bird tower, 382 ; a tin-can bird 
tower, 382 ; a bird castle, 383 ; a bird 
ark, 385 ; a wall bracket bird ark, 385 ; 
a house and swing, 386 ; a hanging-house, 
386; a shelter, 387. 

Bit, expansive-, 21; wood drill, 22; counter- 
sink, 22 ; screw-driver, 23. 

Bit-brace, 21. 

Bits, auger-, 21. 

Blanks, aerogram, 223. 

Blocks, single, 329. 

Blueprints, working-drawing, 97. 

Blunderbuss for "Willie Shute," 268. 

Board foot, def. of, 51. 

Boards, stock sizes of, 49; undressed, 48; 
dressed, 48; matched, 49; beaded and 
matched-and-beaded, 49; rabbeted, 65. 
(See Lumber.) 

Boats, a punt, 351 ; a sharpie, 356. 

Boats," "torpedo, 286. 

Bob-sled, 290; runners, 291; seats, 292; 
check-chains, 293 ; steering foot-bar, 
293 ; steering lines, 293 ; handle-bars, 
293 ; seat cushion, 293 ; painting, 294. 

Bolts, 74. 

Bonehead, 260. 

Book-racks, 107 ; extension, 108. 

Book-shelf, 163. 

Bottle-rack, 141. 

Box and barrel furniture, 160 (see Furniture). 

Boxing-match, moving picture of a, 277. 

Boy riders for merry-go-round, 195. 



Boy's room in an attic, a (see Room in an 
Attic). 

Brace, ratchet-, 21. 

Bracket-saw, 18. 

Brad-awls, 22. 

Brass craft, 206 ; tools and materials for, 206 ; 
enlarging designs by squares, 207 ; pierc- 
ing, 208; poHshing, 209; a home-made 
lacquer, 209; tea-pot stand, 209; calen- 
dar board, 211; pen tray, 211; lamp- 
shade, 212; candle-shade, 214; fringe 
for, 214; shade holders, 215; candle- 
stick, 215; "Paul Revere" lantern, 216. 

Brushes, 77. 

Butt-joint, 60. 



Cabinet, a tool, 33 ; a music, 159. 

Cabinet-made work benches, 3. 

Cabinet-maker's clamps, 29. 

Cabin latch, an old-fashioned, 157. 

Cable for auto-airship, 335. 

Cage, a white rat, 399. 

Calendar board, 211. 

Call, to receive a "wireless," 249 ; to make a, 
250. 

Call list, a "wireless," 223. 

Calumet Aero Club, The, 300. 

Camp furniture, 349 ; a chair, 349 ; a table, 
349 ; a table bench, 350 ; a box bench, 
350; box cupboards, 350. 

Camping equipment, 337; cost of "A" and 
wall tents, 337; how to make an "A" 
tent, 338; ridge-pole and uprights for a 
tent, 340 ; tent stakes, 340 ; pitching the 
tent, 340 ; a tent ground-cloth, 341 ; a 
spruce or pine twig mattress, 341 ; a 
sleeping-bag, 342 ; other equipment, 342 ; 
an electric flash lamp, 343 ; packing, 343 ; 
a safety match-box, 344; a dufiSe box, 
344 ; food suppHes, 345 ; learning to 
cook, 345 ; an open fire, 345 ; a back- 
woodsman's fireplace, 346 ; pothooks, 
347 ; a sheet-iron camp stove, 347 ; a 
Dutch oven, 348 ; a fireless cooker, 348 ; 
building a fire, 348; a camp chair, 349; 
a camp table, 349; a table bench, 350; 
a box bench, 350; box cupboards, 350. 

Camp stove, a sheet-iron, 347. 

Candle-shade, 214; holder for a, 215. 

Candle-stick, a brass, 215. 



INDEX 



429 



Can receptacles for nails and screws, 35. 
Cap, a drum major's "bearskin," 423. 
Captain of snow battleship, duties of, 285. 
Car for auto-airship, 332. 
Carpenter's horse, 36. 
Carpenter's steel square, 26. 
Carriage-bolts, 74. 

Cars for Ferris wheel, 201; for "flying air- 
ships," 205. 
Cart, a toy, 180. 
Castle, a bird, 383. 
Castle club-house, a, 404; material, 404; 

framework, 405 ; floor joists, 407 ; corner 

turrets, 407 ; walls, 407 ; openings, 408 ; 

roof, 408 ; battlement, 409 ; secret 

treasure vaults, 409; drawbridge, 409; 

windlass for drawbridge, 411; moat, 

412. 
Ceiling, def. of boards known as, 49. 
Cells (see Batteries). 
Center-poles, model aeroplane, 305, 309, 314, 

320. 
Center-table, a doll's, 182. 
Chain fringe for brass craft, 214. 
Chair, a Roman, 126; a Mission, 128; an 

office, 163 ; a doll's round-seated, 182 ; 

a doll's square-seated, 183; a camp, 

349- 
Chair saw-bench, 38. 
Chamfer, 71. 
Chamfer bevel, 71. 
Chamfer groove, 71. 
Check-chain, bob-sled, 293. 
Checks in lumber, 47. 
Chest, a tool-, 30; a pirate, 159. 
Chest-weight, 170. 
Chicago Wireless Club, The, 222. 
Chiffonier, a box, 167. 
Chinning-bar, 175. 
Chisels, firmer, 24; framing or mortising, 

24; cold-, 25. 
Cigar boxes, preparation of, 178; cutting, 

179; finish, 179. 
Cigar-box toys and gifts, 178 (see Toys; also 

Furniture). 
Clamps, cabinet-maker's, 29; home-made, 

29. 
Cleating boards, 69. 
Cleats, 69; porcelain, 229. 
Clock-shelf, 105 ; a corner, 184. 
Clockwork motors, 190, 198; to operate, 197; 

to increase speed of, 205. 



Clockwork toys, 189 (see Toys). 

Clothes closet for an attic room, 155 ; 

trousers hangers for, 155. 
Clown and ball moving pictures, 272. 
Club-house, a castle (see Castle). 
Clubs, workshop, 103, 105 ; wireless tele- 
graph, 222; vaudeville, 256; junior aero, 

300 ; auto-airship, 336. 
Coach-whip pennant, 284. 
Coaster, 287 ; runners for, 287 ; shoes, 288 ; 

seat, 289; handles, 289; foot-bar, 290; 

painting, 290. 
Code card, a "wireless," 223. 
Codes, Morse and Continental, 250 ; a good 

way to learn the, 251. 
Coil, a home-made "wireless " tuning-, 237; 

an induction- or spark-, 245. 
Cold-chisel, 25. 
Commercial stations, amateur "wireless," 

223. 
Common-joint, 60. 
Common-splice, 60. 
Compasses, 92. 
Compass-saw, 18. 

Condenser, a home-made "wireless," 241. 
Contests, model aeroplane, 300, 306, 325. 
Continental telegraph code, 251. 
Contrivances for the house, handy, 135 ; 

a fireless cooker, 136; pot-cover rack, 

141 ; bottle-rack, 141 ; flat-iron rest, 143 ; 

flat-iron rack, 144 ; sleeve-board, 145 ; 

knife-box, 146; scrub-pail platform, 146; 

towel-roller, 147; ice-pick and ice-chisel 

rack, 148. 
Cooker, a fireless, 136, 348. 
Coping-saw, 18. 
Cornet, a home-made, 417. 
Cote, a pigeon-, 402. 
Counterbalance, castle drawbridge, 410. 
Countersink-bit, 22. 
Countersinking, 73. 
Cradle, a doll's, 183. 
Crate opener, 17. 
Cross-cut saw, 18. 
Crosstree, 284. 
Cupboards, camp, 350. 
Cup-shakes, 47. 

Current strength, electrical, 252. 
Cutting cigar-box wood, 179. 
Cutting large holes, 142. 
Cutting pliers, 28. 
Cymbals, home-made, 422. 



430 



INDEX 



Dado-plane, 20. 

Deck of snow battleship, 283. 

Delivery- wagon, a toy auto, 180. 

Desk, a Mission writing-, 129; a table, 133; 
a box writing-, 160. 

Detail drawing, 86. 

Detectors, home-made "wireless," 233; a 
microphone, 233 ; a razor blade micro- 
phone, 235 ; a siUcon, 236. 

Dickson, Mr. Royal C, 223. 

Dimension stuff, sizes of lumber known as, 
49. 

Dining-table, a doll's, 182. 

Dividers, wing-, 27. 

Dog-house, 389. 

Doll furniture, 182 ; a round-seated chair, 
182 ; a round center-table, 182 ; a dining- 
table, 182; a square-seated chair, 183; 
a cradle, 183. 

Door, a paneled, 124. 

Doors for partitions of attic room, 156; 
transom for, 157; cabin-latch for, 157. 

Dot and dash, 226 and 247. 

Dovetail half-lap joint, 68. 

Dovetailing, 67. 

Dovetail-joint, 66. 

Doweling, 68. 

Dowel-joint, 68. 

Dowels, 68. 

Drafting table, 91, 133. 

Drawbridge, castle, 409. 

Drawer-pulls, 32, 288. 

Drawers for tools, 10. 

Drawing-board, 91. 

Drawing outfit, 90. 

Drawings, working-, 86; perspective, 88. 

Draw-knife, 25. 

Dressed stuff, 48. 

Drill, an automatic, 23. 

Drill bit for wood, 22. 

Drop-cord, how to wire up a, 132. 

Drum, a home-made bass, 421 ; a home-made 
snare, 423. 

Drum major, 423; a "bearskin" cap, 423; 
a staff, 424; a whistle, 424. 

Drum-stick, a bass-drum, 423. 

Dry batteries (see Batteries), 

Duflfle box, 344. 

Dumb-bell lifting stunt, 258. 

Dumb-bell rack, 177. 



Dummy assistant to professor with magical 

mortar, 263. 
Dutch oven, 348. 



Electrical measurements, 252. 

Electric fixture, 134. 

Electric lamp, 130. 

Electromagnetic waves, 226. 

Elementary manual training, 42. 

Elevations, def. of front, rear, side, right, 

and left, 87. 
Enlarging by squares, 207, 287. 
Estimating cost of material, 51. 
Exercising machine (see Chest- weight). 
Expansive-bit, 21. 
Express- wagon, a toy, 180. 
Extension book-rack, 108. 



Falsetto, 263. 

Ferris wheel, a clockwork, 198. 

Fife, a home-made, 421. 

Fighting- tops, 283. 

Files, handiest forms of, 25. 

Filler, a paste, 82. 

Filling woodwork, 82. 

Finishing woodwork, 75. 

Fins, model aeroplane, 316, 325. 

Fire, an open camp, 345 ; to build a, 348. 

Fireless cooker, 136 ; U. S. Army, 140 ; a 

camp, 348. 
Fireplace, the backwoodsman's, 346. 
Firmer chisels, 24. 
Fished-splice, 60. 
Fixed condenser, a home-made "wireless," 

241. 
Flags for snow battleships, 284, 286. 
Flash lamp for camping, an electric, 343. 
Flat-iron rest, 143. 
Flushing PushmoUle Club, The, 365; races 

of, 365-367- 
" Flying airships," clockwork, 203. 
Folding rule, a 2-foot, 26. 
Food suppHes, camp, 345. 
Foot-bar for coaster, 290; for bob-sled, 293. 
Footstool, ii4> 
Fore-plane, 20. 

Foreshorten, def. of term, 319. 
Framing chisel, 24. 



INDEX 



431 



Fringe for brass craft, 214. 

Funnels for snow battleships, 284. 

Furnishing an attic room, 159. 

Furniture, box and barrel, 160; writing-desk, 
160 ; ofl&ce chair, 163 ; waste-basket, 
164; arm-rocker, 164; barrel table, 166; 
chiffonier, 167; pirate chest, 159; win- 
dow seat, 159. 

Furniture, camp, 349 ; a chair, 349 ; a table, 
349; a table bench, 350; a box bench, 
350; cupboards, 350. 

Furniture, doll, 182 ; a round-seated chair, 

182 ; a round center-table, 182 ; a dining 
table, 182 ; a square-seated, chair, 183 ; 
a cradle, 183. 

Furniture, easily made, 103 ; a whisk-broom 
holder, 105, 185 ; a clock-shelf, 105 ; 
a corner-clock shelf, 184; a kej^ -board, 

183 ; a match-box, 185 ; a cottage pipe- 
rack and match-box, 186 ; a cottage 
match-box, 188 ; a necktie-rack, 107 ; 
a towel-rack, 107 ; book-racks, 107 ; an 
extension book-rack, 108; tabourets, 
no, 112; a plant stand, 114; a footstool, 
114; bench, 117; magazine racks, 120; 
a music-cabinet, 122; an umbrella-stand, 
125; a Roman chair, 126; a Mission 
chair, 128; a Mission writing-desk, 129; 
an electric lamp, 130; a drafting table, 
133; a desk table, 133. 



Gauge, a marking-, 26; a mortise-, 27. 

Gauging, 52. 

Gears, model aeroplane running-, 311, 316, 

321. 
Gifts, cigar-box, 183 (see Furniture). 
Gimlet, a hand, 22. 
Girl riders for merry-go-round, 195. 
Ghder, a cardboard bird, 303 ; a simple 

monoplane, 304; a race, 306. 
Gong, a trip, 376. 

Gothic letters, for working-drawings, 102. 
Gouge, 24. 
Grindstone, 30. 
Groove, 66. 

Ground-cloth, a tent, 341. 
Grounding an aerial, 230. 
Grounds, 116. 
Guns for snow battleship, 283, 285. 



Gymnasium apparatus, for a boy's room, 
170; chest- weight, 170; striking-bag 
platform, 173; chinning-bar, 175; hitch- 
and-kick, 175; wand, 176; rack for 
dumb-bells, Indian clubs, and wand, 177. 



H 



Half-lap joint, 60. 

Halved-joint, 60. 

Halved-splice, 60. 

Hammer, 17; a tack, 17. 

Handle-bars, sled, 293. 

Handscrews, 29. 

Hanging lamp, a home-made, 158. 

Hatchet, 16. 

Hay-stove (see Fireless cooker). 

Headlights, 373. 

Heart-shakes, 47. 

Heart-wood, 44. 

Heater for attic room, 157, 

Hertzian waves, 226. 

Hinge-hasp, 31. 

Hitch-and-kick, 175. 

Holder, a whisk-broom, 105; a shade, 215. 

Holes, cutting large, 142. 

Home workshop, the, i. 

Hood, a pushmobile, 372. 

Hooks, spool, 155. 

Horn, a home-made bass, 420. 

Horse, a carpenter's, 36. 

Horse and hound, moving pictures, 272. 

Horses for merry-go-round, 193. 

House, a bird- (see Bird-houses) ; a dog-, 
389. _ ^ 

Housed-joint, 66. 

Household conveniences, 135 (see Contri- 
vances for the house). 

Houses for pets, 389; a dog-house, 389; a 
rabbit-hutch, 391 ; a breeding hutch, 
394 ; a two-story rabbit-hutch, 395 ; 
a rabbit yard, 398 ; a cage for white rats, 
399; a pigeon-cote, 402. 

Hutch, a rabbit-, 391; a breeding, 394; a 
two-story rabbit-, 395 ; painting, 402 ; 
floor covering, 402 ; drinking receptacles, 
402. 

I 

Ice-pick and ice-chisel rack, 148. 
Indian club rack, 177. 
Induction-coil, a "wireless," 245. 



432 



INDEX 



Inkstand, a home-made pencil box and, 96. 

Instruments, drawing, 90; "wireless" re- 
ceiving, 232; "wireless" transmitting, 
245 ; a boys' band of home-made, 416. 

Insulation of the "wireless " aerial, 229. 

Insulators, porcelain, 229. 



Lock, a mortise-, and a half-mortise, 125. 

Lockers for a boy's room, 154. 

Logs, cutting up, 45. 

Lug pole, 346. 

Lumber, preparation of, 45 ; defects In, 47 ; 

seasoning of, 48; kiln drying of, 48; 

stock sizes of, 49; estimating cost of, 51. 



Jack-in-the-box, 181. 

Jack-knife, 15. 

Jack-plane, 19. 

Joints, 57; common-, 60; butt-, 60; halved-, 

or lap-, 60; mortise-and-tenon, 61; 

rabbet-, 65 ; housed-, 66 ; tongue-and- 

groove, 66 ; mitered, 66 ; dovetail, 66 ; 

dovetail half-lap, 68 ; dowel, 68. 
Juggling with "heavy" balls, 260. 
Juvenile Manufacturing Co., The, 103. 



Keel board, an inner, for punt, 353 ; for 

sharpie, 361. 
Key, a "wireless," 248. 
Key-board, 183. 
Keyhole-saw, 18. 
Kiln drying, 48. 

Knife, a jack-, 15; a draw-, 25. 
Knife-box, 146. 

Knife switch, a double-throw, single-pole, 
231 ; a double- throw, double-pole, 248. 
Knobs, spool, 169. 
Knots, 47, 

L 

Lacquer for ^>rass craft, 209. 

Lamp, an electric, 130 ; a home-made hang- 
ing-, 158. 

Lamp-shade, 212; holder for a, 215. 

Lantern hanging-lamp, 158; a "Paul Re- 
vere," 216. 

Latch, a cabin, 157. 

Laying out work, 51 ; working-drawings, 100. 

Lettering working-drawings, 102. 

Level, 27; a pocket, 28. 

Leveling up uneven legs of furniture, 112. 

License number, a pushmobile, 373. 

Light for workshop, 3 ; for attic room, 158. 

Lines, dimension, loi ; center-, dot-and- 
dash, dotted, and marginal, 102 ; plumb-, 
153. 



M 



Machine, a simple moving-picture, 270. 

Magazine of snow battleship, 285. 

Magazine racks, 120. 

Magical mortar, 260; stunts with the, 261. 

Main battery of snow battleship, 285. 

Mallet, a wooden, 17. 

Manual training, elementary, 42. 

Marconi, Guglielmo, 219. 

Marking-gauge, 26. 

Mast for snow battleship, 283. 

Masts for aerial, 230. 

Match-box, a kitchen, 185 ; cottage pipe-rack 
and, 186; a cottage, 188; a safety, 344. 

Matched-and-beaded stuff, 49. 

Matched stuff, 49. 

Material, selection of workshop working-, 
43 ; purchasing, 50 ; estimating cost of, 
51; upholstering, 116; brass craft, 206. 

Material boxes, 34. 

Mattress, a pine twig, 341. 

Medullary rays, 45. 

Meets, model aeroplane, 300; pushmobile. 

Merry-go-round, a clockwork, 190; horses 
for, 193; sleighs for, 194; girl and boy 
riders for, 195 ; animals for, 197 ; to 
operate, 197. 

Microphone detector, a home-made, 233 ; 
a razor blade, 235. 

Mill list, preparation of a, 50. 

Mission chair, 128. 

Mission writing-desk, 129. 

Miter-box, a home-made, 39. 

Mitered-joint, 66. 

Mitered-spHce, 66. 

Moat, 412. 

Model aeroplanes (see Aeroplanes). 

Monoplane model aeroplane, a simple, 304 ; 
a French, 309; an Antoinette, 314; a 
more elaborate, 316. (For parts see 
Aeroplanes.) 

Morse telegraph code, 250. 



INDEX 



433 



Mortar, the magical, 260. 

Mortise, 62. 

Mortise- and-tenon joints, 61. 

Mortise-gauge, 27. 

Mortising chisel, 24. 

Motors, clockwork, 190, 198; to operate, 197 ; 
increasing speed of, 205. 

Motors, model aeroplane, 307 ; winding for 
flights, 308. 

Moving pictures, 270; a simple machine for, 
270; the clown and ball, 272; the circus 
horse and hound, 272 ; the automobile, 
273 ; the revolving wheels, 276 ; the 
boxing match, 277. 

Multiple, batteries connected in, 247 and 253. 

Music-cabinet, 122. 



N 



Nail boxes and cans, 34 and 35. 

Nailing, 74; toe-, 152 (Fig. 173). 

Nails, 74. 

Nail-set, 17. 

Naval battle, a snow, 285; rules for a, 285. 

Necktie-rack, 107. 

Nest boxes, rat-cage, 400. 

Netting, poultry-, 393. 



Odd jobs, the, 28. 

OflSce chair, 163. 

Ohm, 252. 

Oiler, 30. 

Oil heater for attic room, 157 

Oiling woodwork, 84. 

Oil stains, 79. 

Oilstone, 30. 

Outfit, a tool, 14; a wood finishing, 75; a 
drawing, 90; a brass craft, 206 ; a "wire- 
less" receiving, 232; a "wireless" trans- 
mitting, 24s ; a camping, 337. 

Oven, a Dutch, 348. 



Packing a camp outfit, 343. 

Paint, 75 ; mixing, 76. 

Painter for punt, 355 ; for sharpie, 362. 

Painting, 77. 

Panel door, 124. 

Paneling, 124. 



Paper for working drawings, 96 ; for tracing, 

97- 
Parallel, batteries connected in, 247, 253. 
Paring with a chisel, 63. 
Partition for attic room, 149. 
"Paul Revere" lantern, a brass, 216. 
Pencil box, a home-made, 96. 
Pencils, drawing, 94. 
Pennants for a boy's room, 159; for a snow 

battleship, 284. 
Pens, 95. 
Pen tray, 211. 

Perspective drawing, def. of a, 88. 
Picture-frames, home-made, 159. 
Pictures, moving, 270. 
Pigeon-cote, 402. 

Pins for mortise-and-tenon joints, 65. 
Pirate chest, 159. 
Pith of a tree, 44. 
Plain sawing, 45. 
Plan, def. of, 87. 
Plane, a jack-, 19 ; a smoothing-, 20 ; a fore-, 

20 ; a rabbet-, 20 ; a dado-, 20. 
Planes for model aeroplanes, 306, 311, 315, 

323 ; stability, 303 ; warping of, 313, 318 

(Fig. 399)- 
Planing exercise, 54. 
Planks, sizes of lumber known as, 49. 
Plant stand, no, 114. 
Platforms for auto-airship, 334. 
Pliers, 28. 
Plumb-board, 153. 
Plumb-line, 153. 
Pocket level, 28. 

PoHshing, wood, 83 ; brass, 209. 
Pot-cover rack, 141. 
Potentiometer, a home-made "wireless," 

243- 
Pothooks, 347. 
Poultry-netting, 393. 
Pressure, electrical, 252. 
Priming coat, 78. 
Printing-frame for blueprints, a home-made, 

99. 
Professor for a boys' vaudeville show, the, 

261 ; his magical mortar, 260 ; stunts, 

261-263. 
Program board for vaudeville show, 268 
Propeller, an auto-airship, S33- 
Propellers, model aeroplane, 306, 310, 315, 

321 ; shafts and bearings for, 307. 
Punching-bag (see Striking-bag). 



434 



INDEX 



Punt, a home-made, 351; dimensions, 351; 

material, 351; side boards, 352; stem- 

and stern-pieces, 353 ; bottom boards, 

353 ; inner keel board, 353 ; seats, 354 ; 

rowlocks, 354 ; thole-pins, 355 ; painter, 

355; finishing, 355. 
Pushmobile, a, 364 ; a, club, 365, 368 ; a race, 

367 ; to construct a, 368 ; axles, 368 ; 

wagon-bed, 369 ; steering-gear, 369 ; 

hood, 372; radiator-front, 372; seat, 

373 ; headlights, 373 ; side lamps, 373 ; 

painting, 373 ; license number, 373 ; ■ a 

racing pushmobile, 373. 
Push wagon, a simple, 376 ; wagon-bed, 376 ; 

rear wheels, 377 ; front wheels, 377. 
Puttying, 84. 
Putty-knife, a home-made, 85. 



Quarter sawing, 46. 



R 



Rabbet, 65. 

Rabbet-joint, 65. 

Rabbet-plane, 20. 

Rabbit-hutch (see Hutch). 

Rabbit yard, 398. 

Races, model aeroplane, 300, 306, 325 ; push- 
mobile, 365-368. 

"Race track," a rat-cage, 401. 

Rack, a tool-, 33 ; a necktie-, 107 ; a towel-, 
107 ; a book-, 107 ; an extension book-, 
108; a magazine-, 120; a pot-cover, 141 ; 
a bottle-, 141; a flat-iron, 144; an ice- 
pick and ice-chisel, 148 ; a broom-handle 
towel-, 158 ; a dumb-bell, Indian club, and 
wand, 177. 

Radiator-front, a pushmobile, 372. 

Ratchet-brace, 21. 

Ratchet screw-driver, 23. 

Razor blade microphone detector, 235. 

Receivers, telephone, 232. 

Receiving outfit, a "wireless," 232; aerial, 
227; insulating, 229; grounding, 230; 
telephone receivers, 232 ; microphone 
detector, 233 ; razor blade microphone 
detector, 235; silicon detector, 236; 
tuning-coil, 237 ; fixed condenser, 241 ; 
potentiometer, 243 ; arrangement of in- 
struments, 248; to receive a call, 249; 
codes, 250. 



Resistance, electrical, 252. 

Rest for flat-iron, 143. 

Revolving wheels moving picture, 276. 

Rib-bands, auto-airship balloon, 331. 

Ridge-pole, a tent, 340. 

Rip-saw, 18. 

Rocker, an arm, 164. 

Roller, a towel-, 147. 

Roman chair, 126. 

Roof, castle, 408. 

Room in an attic, a boy's, 149; parti- 
tions for, 149; lockers for, 154; clothes 
closet for, 155; heater for, 157; wash- 
stand for, 158; lighting, 158; furnishing, 

159- 
Rowlocks, 354. 
Rubbing woodwork, 83. 
Rudder, a model aeroplane, 316, 324; a 

sharpie, 362. 
Rule, a 2-foot folding, 26. 
Ruler, a 12-inch, 94. 
Ruling-pen, 93. 
Runners for coaster, 287; for hob-sled, 291 ; 

shoes for, 288. 
Running-gears, model aeroplane, 311, 316, 

321. 



Sam Dow, the strong man, 256; stunts for, 

256-260. 
Sandpapering, 84. 
Sap-wood, 45. 
Saw, cross-cut, 18; rip-, 18; compass-, 18; 

keyhole-, 18; back-, 18; coping-, 18; 

bracket-, 18; scroll-, 19. 
Saw-bench, a chair, 38. 
Sawing, plain, 45 ; quarter, 46 ; exercise in, 

57- ^ 

Scale for mechanical drawing, 94. 
Scales to which drawings are made, 88. 
Scratch-awl, 22. 
Screw-driver, a spiral-ratchet, 23 ; a hand, 

23; a, bit, 23. 
Screws, 72; fastening together work with, 

73- 
Scribing, 51. 
Scroll-saw, 19. 
Scrub-pail platform, 146. 
Seasoning lumber, 48. 
Seat, a window, 159; a coaster, 289; a 

bob-sled, 292. 



INDEX 



435 



Seats, coaster, 289; bob-sled, 292; punt, 

354 ; sharpie, 361 ; wagon, 373, 376. 
Secondary battery of snow battleship, 285. 
Section, def. of cross-, and longitudinal, 88. 
Series, batteries connected in, 247, 253. 
Series-parallel, batteries connected in, 247, 

253- 

Shade, a lamp-, 212: a candle-, 214. 

Shade holders, 215. 

Shafts for model aeroplanes, propeller, 307, 
310, 322. 

Shakes, cup-, 47 ; heart-, 47. 

Sharpie, a home-made, 356 ; dimensions, 
356; side pieces, 357; stem-piece, 358; 
stern-piece, 358; stretcher, 358; put- 
ting the pieces together, 358; bottom 
boards, 359; skeg, 360; inner keel board, 
361 ; seats, 361 ; bow, 361 ; painter, 362 ; 
rudder, 362; rowlocks, 363. 

Shelf, a clock, 105 ; a corner clock, 184. 

Shellac, 81. 

Shellacking, 81. 

Shelter, a bird, 387. 

Shelves for workshop, 34; for books, 163. 

Shoes for sled runners, 288. 

Shooting-board, 40. 

Shop equipment, work-benches, 3-13 ; tools, 
14-30 ; tool-chest, 30 ; tool-cabinet, ss ; 
tool-rack, 33 ; material boxes, 34-36 ; 
horse, 36; chair saw-bench, 38; miter- 
box, 39; bench-hook, 40; shooting- 
board, 40. 

Show, stunts for a boy's vaudeville (see 
Vaudeville show). 

Side lamp, a bicycle lamp, 373 ; a clock-case, 
373- 

Silicon detector, a home-made, 236. 

Silver grain in wood, 45. 

Skeg, 360. 

Skids, model aeroplane, 311. 

Sled, a coaster, 287 ; a bob-, 290. 

Sleeping-bag, 342. 

Sleeve-board, 145. 

Sleighs for merry-go-round, 194. 

Smoothing-plane, 20. 

Snare drums, home-made, 423. 

Snow battleship, 279; central station, 279; 
hull, 280; torpedo tube, 281; super- 
structure deck, 283; conning-tower, 283; 
forward turret, 283 ; midship turret, 283 ; 
mast, 283 ; fighting-tops, 283 ; rapid-fire 
guns, 283 ; crosstree, 284 ; coach- whip 



pannant, 284; signal flags, 284: Union 
Jack, 284 ; national ensign, 284 ; funnels, 
284; ventilators, 2 85 ; main-battery and 
secondary battery guns, 285 ; ammunition 
stores, 285 ; duties of the Captain, 285 ; 
a naval battle, 285 ; rules for a naval 
battle, 285; flag of truce, 286; "torpedo 
boats," 286; repairs, 286; marksman- 
ship, 286. 

Socket and drop-cord for lamp, 131. 

Spark-coil, 245. 

Spark-gap, 246. 

Specifications, 86. 

Spiral-ratchet screw-driver, 23. 

Spirit level, 27. 

Splices, 57; common-, 60; fished-, 60; 
halved, 60; mitered-, 66. 

Spoke-shave, 25. 

Spool hooks, 155; knobs, 169. 

Spreader for aerial, 229. 

Square, a try-, 26 ; a carpenter's steel, 26. 

Squares, enlarging by, 207, 287. 

Stability planes, 303. 

Staff, a drum-major's, 424. 

Staining, 78. 

Stains, water, 79 ; oil, 79. 

Stakes, tent, 340. 

Stand, a tea-pot, 209. 

Steel square, 26. 

Steering foot-bar, sled, 293. 

Steering-gears, wagon, 369, 374, 375. 

Steering lines, sled, 293; wagon, 371, 375. 

Steering-wheels, wagon, 369, 374, 375. 

Stem-piece, the punt, 353 ; the sharpie, 358. 

Stern-piece, the punt, 353 ; the sharpie, 358. 

Stock, def. of term, 48; sizes of, 49. 

Stool, a foot-, 114. 

Stop, an adjustable bench-, 12. 

Stop chamfer, 71. 

Stops, home-made bench-, 11; door, 125. 

Storage battery, 246. 

Stove, camp, 347. 

Stove for attic room, 157. 

Striking-bag, 173; platform for, 173. 

Structure of wood, 44. 

Stuff, def. of term, 48; undressed, 48; 
dressed, 48 ; matched, 49 ; matched-and- 
beaded, 49. 

Swing, a bird, 386. 

Switch, a double-throw single-pole knife, 
231; a double-throw double-pole knife, 
248. 



436 



INDEX 



Table, a drafting, 91, 133 ; a desk, 133 ; 
a barrel, 166 ; a doll's round center-, 182 ; 
a doll's dining-, 182; a camp, 349. 

Tabourets, no, 112. 

Tails, model aeroplane, 316, 325. 

Taper, 71. 

Targets for Willie Shute's vaudeville stunts, 
267. 

Tea-pot stand, a brass, 209. 

Telephone receivers, 232. 

Tenon, 63. 

Tent, cost of a, 337; how to make an "A," 
338; to pitch a, 340. 

Thole-pins, 355. 

Thumb-tacks, 96. 

Tickets, admission, 269. 

Toe-nailing, 152 (Fig. 173). 

Tongue-and-groove joint, 66. 

Tool-cabinet, 33. 

Tool-chest, 30. 

Tool drawers, 10, 

Tool-rack, 33. 

Tools, purchasing, 14; a handy guide for 
purchasing, 15; the principal, 15; a small 
outfit of, 15; a chest for, 30; cabinet 
for, 33 ; rack for, 35 ', drawing, 90 ; 
brass craft, 206. 

Tool tray, 10. 

"Torpedo boats" for snow battleship, 
286. 

Torpedo tube for snow battleship, 281. 

Towel-rack, 107; a broom-handle, 158. 

Towel-roller, 147. 

Tower, a bird, 382 ; a tin-can bird, 382. 

Toys, cigar-box, 178; an express-wagon, 180; 
a cart, 180; an auto deli very- wagon, 
180; a jack-in-the-box, 181; a round- 
seated chair, 182 ; a round center- table, 
182; a dining-table, 182; a square- 
seated chair, 183; a doll's cradle, 183. 

Toys, clockwork, 189; merry-go-round, 190; 
miniature Ferris wheel, 198; "flying 
airships," 203. 

Tracing-cloth, 97. 

Tracing-paper, 97. 

Transmitting outfit, a "wireless," 245; 
aerial, 227; insulating, 229; grounding, 
230 ; an induction-coil, 245 ; spark-gap, 
246 ; storage battery, 246 ; dry batteries, 
247; "wireless" key, 248; knife switch. 



248; arrangement of instruments, 248; 

operation of, 249; to make a call, 250; 

codes, 250; connection of batteries, 

253. 
Transom for door, 157. 
Tray, a tool, 10; a brass pen, 211. 
Treasure vaults, castle, 409. 
Trestletrees, 283. 
Triangles, 92. 
Trip gong, 376. 
Trombone, a home-made, 418. 
Truce, a flag of, 286. 
Try-square, 26. 
T-square, 91. 
Tuner (see Tuning-coil). 
Tuning-coil, a home-made "wireless," 237. 
Turnbuckles, 174. 
Turrets, snow battleship, 283 ; castle, 

407. 
Twist wire cloth, 393. 



U 



Umbrella-stand, 125. 

Undercutting, 114. 

Undressed stuff, 48. 

Uniforms for a boys' band, 424. 

Upholstering, and material for, ii6. 



VanderbiU Pushmohile Cup Race, The, 366. 

Varnishing, 83. 

Vaudeville show, stunts for a boys', 256; 
Sam Dow, 256; lifting feats, 256-260; 
juggling, 260; Bonehead, 260; magical 
mortar, 260 ; the professor, 261 ; the 
wonderful hat trick, 261 ; other mortar 
stunts, 262 ; the professor's final ex- 
hibition, 262 ; the dummy assistant, 263 ; 
Falsetto, 263; the Ventriloquist, 264; 
his doll, 264; Willie Shute, 266; his 
targets, 267 ; his blunderbuss, 268 ; 
program board, 268; admission tickets, 
269. 

Vaults, castle secret treasure, 409. 

Ventriloquist, how a boy can be a, 264; 
doll for the, 264. 

Vise, bench-, 6 ; an iron, 8. 

Volt, 252. 



INDEX 



437 



W 



Wagon, a toy express, i8o; a toy auto de- 
livery-, 1 80. 

Wagons, pushmobiles and other home-made, 
364; a pushmobile, 368; a racing push- 
mobile, 373; an auto wagon, 374; a 
simple push wagon, 376. 

Wainscoting for attic room, 155. 

Wand, a home-made, 176; rack for a, 177. 

Warping, cause of wood, 45. 

Warping model aeroplane planes, 313, 318 
(Fig. 309). 

Wash-stand for attic room, 158. 

Waste basket, 164. 

Water stains, 79. 

Waxing, 83. 

Wedging mortise-and-tenon joints, 65. 

Wheels, the moving-picture revolving, 276. 

Wheels, wagon, 364, 368, 377. 

Whisk-broom holders, 105, 185. 

Whistle, a drum major's, 424. 

White rat cage, 399. 

WiUie Shute's vaudeville stunts, 266; his 
targets, 267; his blunderbuss, 278. 

Winding, testing a board for, 55. 

Winding-sticks, 55. 

Windlass, a castle drawbridge, 411. 

Window seat, 159. 

Wind-shakes (same as Cup-shakes), 47. 

Wing dividers, 27. 

Wings, model aeroplane (see Planes). 

Wire cloth, 393. 

Wireless Club, The Chicago, 222. 

Wireless telegraph outfit, a boy's, 219; 
code card, 223; call list, 223; aerogram 
blanks, 223; aerial, 227; masts, 230; 
insulating, 229; grounding, 230; double- 
throw, single-pole knife switch, 231; 
telephone receivers, 232; microphone 
detector, 233 ; razor blade microphone 
detector, 235 ; siUcon detector, 236 ; tun- 



ing-coil, 237 ; fixed condenser, 241 ; po- 
tentiometer, 243 ; induction-coil, 245 ; 
spark-gap, 246; storage battery, 246; dry 
batteries, 247 ; wireless key, 248 ; double- 
throw, double-pole knife switch, 248; 
arrangement of instruments, 248 ; opera- 
tion of instruments, 249; to receive a 
call, 249; to make a call, 250; codes, 
250. 

Wireless telegraphy, development of, 219; 
amateur commercial stations, 223 ; funda- 
mental principles of, 224 ; what some boys 
have accomphshed, 221. 

Wiring a socket, plug, and drop-cord, 132. 

Wood, structure of, 44; defects in, 47. 

Wood drill bit, 22. 

Wood-file, a half round, 25. 

Wood finishing, 75 ; paint, 75 ; mixing 
paints, 76; painting, 77; brushes, 77; 
staining, 78 ; water stains, 79 ; oil stains, 
79 ; shellacking, 81 ; filler, and fiUing, 82 ; 
varnishing, 83 ; waxing, 83 ; rubbing, 83 ; 
poHshing, 83 ; oiling, 84 ; sandpapering, 
84; puttying, 84; home-made putty- 
knife, 85 ; caution about oily rags, 85. 

Work bench, a cabinet-made, 3 ; a home- 
made, 3 ; a solid, 4 ; a, with tool drawers, 
8. 

Working drawings, 86; scales of, 88; prep- 
aration of, 100. 

Working edge, def. of, 56. 

Working face, def. of, 55. 

Working material, selection of, 43. 

Workshop, the home, i ; location of, 2 ; 
light for, 3 ; equipment for (see Shop 
equipment) . 

Wrench, 28. 

Writing-desk, a Mission, 129; a box, 160. 



Yard, a rabbit, 398. 



r 


BOY r" 


m 


^^^^ 




1 jiiKs 



THE BOY CRAFTSMAN 

Practical and Profitable Ideas for a Boy's 
Leisxire lio-urs 

By A. NEELY HALL 

Illustrated v/ith over 400 diagrams and working 
drawings 8vo Price, $2.00 

'T'VERY real boy wishes to design and make 
•'— ' things, but the questions of materials and 
tools are often hard to get around. In this book 
a number of chapters give suggestions for car- 
rying on a small business that will bring a boy in 
money with which to buy tools and materials 
necessary for making apparatus and articles 
described in other chapters. No work of its 
class is so completely up-to-date, the drawings 
are profuse and excellent, and every feature of the book is first-class. 
It tells how to make a boy's workshop, how to handle tools, and what 
can be made with them ; how to start a printing shop and conduct an 
amateur newspaper, to fit up a dark-room, build a log cabin, a 
canvas canoe, a gymnasium, a miniature theatre, and many other 
things dear to the soul of youth. 

We cannot imagine a more delightful present for a boy than this book. — 
Churchman^ N. Y. 

Every boy should have this book. It's a practical book — it gets right next to 
the boy's heart and stays there. He will have it near him all the time, and on every 
page there is a lesson or something that will stand the boy in good need. Beyond 
a doubt in its Hne this is one of the cleverest books on the market. — Providence 
News, 

If a boy has any sort of a mechanical turn of mind, his parents should see that 
he has this book. — Boston Journal. 

This is a book that will do boys good. — Buffalo Express. 

The boy who will not find this book a mine of joy and profit must be queerly 
constituted. — Pittsburgh Gazette. 

Will be a delight to the boy mechanic. — Watchman^ Boston. 

An admirable book to give a boy. — Newark News. 

This book is the best yet offered for its large number of practical and profitable 
ideas. — Milwaukee Free Press. 

Parents ought to know of this book. — New York Globe. 

For sale by all booksellers or sent postpaid on receipt of price by 

the publishers. 



LOTHROP. LEE & SHEPARD CO., H 



iv 



<>. LBJe'21 

^6 



az/^ 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




013 962 091 4 












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